Snorkel Installation: 2nd Gen SS135MOD & 1st Gen SS170HF

Post pics and install advice for the snorkels here please so we can have a good thread for other members to reference.

Link to GB thread: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/gr...-gen-2nd-gen-4-0-v6-t100-fjs.html#post2630568

Link to fuel efficiency data regarding snorkels: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/pe...gen-ss135mod-1st-gen-ss170hf.html#post2764873

Link to where to buy: http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/safarisnorkel.html

Parts list for 2nd gen













[SIZE=-1]*KIT NOW INCLUDES A TEMPL[/SIZE]ATE SPECIFIC TO THE '05-'10 TEMPLATE - A CRUISER OUTFITTERS EXCLUSIVE
[SIZE=-1]
PARTS NOT INCLUDED IN THE SS135HFD KIT:[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]3 foot section of 3 inch Exhaust Pipe (1)
3x3 inch Heavy Duty Rubber Plumbing connector (1)
3 inch hose clamps (2)
4 inch hose clamp (1)
Black Silicone Sealant (RTV)
Silicone spray lubricant
Primer
Touch up paint[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]
Link to a rubber kit other members have used instead of exhaust pipe: http://www.moparsupercenter.com/874x.html

NOTE: These parts are all available at your hardware store or auto shop.The exhaust tubing will [/SIZE]require bends for proper installation. Keep in mind you can easily drive the truck (after mounting the snorkel) to an exhaust shop, they can easily bend the tube to fit your install. [SIZE=-1]
[/SIZE]
Fitment To: Passenger Side Fender / A-Pillar
Fitting Time: 6-8 Hours (Depending on Skill Level, Tools, etc.)
Special Tools:

• 92mm hole saw
• 3/8 Drill with assorted drill bits
• Hack saw/air hack saw
• Round file
• Tube bender

Prior to commencing the installation, it is the Installer's responsibility to verify that all components and particularly the template placement (Item 14) are correct!

Inside and outside diameter for part #7

 

2nd Gen install with Exclusive Custom Install Template (see here for link http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_2ndgenTaco_snorkel.html)

See here for 4 cylinder: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/pe...-ss135mod-1st-gen-ss170hf-24.html#post3394668

STEP 1 FOR V6: Open hood. Remove the OEM air intake duct from inner fender/engine intake using a screwdriver and 10mm socket/ratchet. Leave intake air filter in place

STEP 2:​

Remove the RHS inner fender liner and the engine air intake duct from engine bay in accordance with the factory service manual.
There are 6 plastic inserts and 2 10mm screws retaining the fender well liner to the inner fender well and fender flare.
From the inside of the engine compartment, remove the plastic inserts carefully using a flat tip screwdriver, popping them out toward the tire. Using a 10mm socket, remove the screws from the edge of the flare and remove the last 2 plastic clips hidden under them.

Fold the liner back out of your way as shown (this will all be re-installed in reverse order later).




STEP 3:​

(Update: The SS135MOD now ships with a custom template that eliminates the need for step 3, instead temporarily attach the template to the fender using masking tape and proceed with marking, drilling and cutting. It is still advisable to double check the template and your marking with the old method prior to drilling any holes. Measure twice, drill once.)
Hold the snorkel up to the fender where you want the snorkel to mount, paying special attention to the indentation in the snorkel for the antenna.





Attach the studs and then mark them with paint. CAREFULLY (have a buddy help out if possible) hold the snorkel back up where you just had it and lightly touch the painted studs to the sheet metal.
Pay close attention to the antenna indentation mentioned earlier as well as the rake of the snorkel at the windshield and the level appearance of the snorkel on the fender.
Using the stud marks you have chosen, align your template and firmly tape it on.
Mark all holes and cut-outs with a black marker.
This will mark the location for attaching the template to drill the 5 holes and the use of the 92mm hole saw.
NOTE: This is all necessary as this template is cut out to fit the contours of a HILUX fender and not a TACOMA (see picture for detail)

​

STEP 4: Using a spring loaded punch, mark the exact location for drilling your 6 pilot holes



STEP 5:
Using a small drill bit, drill pilot holes.
Drill the 5 snorkel mounting stud hole positions to 16mm.
Using the 92mm hole saw, drill the main hole.
Enlarge the main hole as per template cut away section.
Test fit snorkel to fender.
Use round file to adjust any mounting stud holes that are not true for smooth fit (this is not a cause for alarm as studs may protrude slightly irregularly).
De-burr and paint all holes. Allow sufficient drying time.








STEP 6: Test fit and trim down the Hose – Air Entry.
It is beneficial to fit this air entry hose to the entire snorkel body assembly and then do a test fit before final install of the snorkel body to the fender.
Pay close attention to the tight fit inside the fender and take your time.
I trimmed about 5 inches+ off mine (an inch at a time!) where it mounts to the snorkel inside the fender. Trim the oval end, DO NOT trim round end!
This is necessary as it is a tight turn inside the fender for the air entry hose to fit through the inner fender well air intake opening.
Once you are satisfied with fit and length, move on to next step.
NOTE: Save a 2 inch wide piece of the air entry hose for use later on the intake.





STEP 7:
Carefully mount snorkel to fender using supplied washers and locking nuts.
Start at the front nut and tighten evenly as you go, using a cross pattern.
Install air entry hose on snorkel inside fender and tighten hose clamp for water tight fit.
Re-install inner fender liner, replacing all plastic inserts and the 2 10mm screws at the fender flares.





STEP 8:
Mount upper bracket to snorkel body using supplied 10mm bolts.
Using bracket as a template, carefully mark 3 screw locations on A-pillar with black marker.
Punch, drill pilot holes and finally drill these out to 8mm.
De-burr and paint. Allow sufficient drying time.
Insert plastic body inserts.
Install all 3 10mm bolts and all 3 screws at A-pillar. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!







STEP 9:
Measure the distance from the rubber snout to the opening on the air filter assembly.
Using a tube bender, carefully bend the 3 inch pipe (Intake Connector) and cut to desired length as shown below. DO NOT cut the pipe too short, it must insert fully at both ends!




STEP 10: Remove the air cleaner housing and inspect. There are 2 small holes, waterproof these holes by applying the black silicone sealant (RTV). Replace the housing.
Using the 2 inch piece left over from the air entry hose (Step 6), slide this over the end of the Intake Connector and then apply the 3x3 heavy duty rubber plumbing connector over this as shown.
Using the bare metal and of the Intake Connector, lubricate with silicone spray and insert it into the rubber snout at the fender.
Rotate the Intake Connector to the desired angle and, lubricating with silicone spray, insert the rubber connection at the air cleaner housing.
Ensure that angles are good for airflow and then install and tighten the remaining hose clamps (this assembly requires 4 total including the one hidden inside the fender).
NOTE: It is YOUR responsibility to ensure a watertight seal at the 4 clamps – these are the ONLY possible source of leaks so if done right you have no worries!








STEP 11:
Position the air inlet sleeve (Item No.17, looks like a large washer) onto the snorkel body and secure into position using black silicone (RTV).
The air inlet sleeve functions as a diverter for any ingested water (see pic).
Install air ram assembly and fasten with the black hose clamp provided.




From Kurt:

Hello Boyd, its not required and not recommended for use on the gasoline
Tacoma. That part is remnant of the diesel applications that these
snorkels were intended for. It only appears in some of the kits because
Safari Snorkel has two different applications for the same snorkel body,
the only difference being the parts kit which (such as the washer) that
isn't even utilized in our installs. There isn't a single US spec snorkel
application that utilizes that washer and thus we too recommend it not be used. Hope that helps. Our recommended installation procedure is still that of the instructions found on our website here:
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tec...o_snorkel.html

Hope that clears things up, thanks!

-Kurt

Cruiser Outfitters
www.cruiseroutfitters.com
(801) 518-3937

We will be closed the following:
June 11th (We-Rock Rockcrawl @ MMP)
June 25th (Cruiserfest @ MMP)

 

Alright adding what I originally said here:

"So I got so excited to have it already I decided to tackle the install on Friday afternoon instead of waiting until this weekend.

One major hurdle: I installed exactly to the template, drilled holes, cut rubber flex pipe and no matter how many times I tried to adjust it the rubber flex pipe would not line up with the interior fender hole. The rubber pipe on the snorkel got cut far as possible to allow it to still be clamped on and it was too far forward still. I ended up cutting the interior fender hole open more toward the front of the truck to get it to come through and line up in any fashion. It is now against the washer fluid container.

It almost seems to me that the template should set back on the fender a few more inches. I don't know if the opening moved in the later models (mine is a 2007) a bit or what.

I also had a plan (if it had lined up)to use the stock intake hose by cutting off the end of it and putting a 4" clamp around it. This would have worked if you can get that flex pipe to line up inside the hole exactly. You have to crank down on that clamp really hard(that piece of the stock intake is a harder plastic) to get it to grab and hold the rubber pipe but it would have. In my case I am going to the muffler shop to get a piece of stainless steel bent to match up exactly. The off to the hardware store for a union between the filter cover and the pipe. No need for paint since it will be a piece of stainless. Oh and if you use the stock intake and want it to be truly water tight you have to seal up 3 drain holes in the bottom of the boxed portion of the stock intake pipe. RTV works just fine.

Well roughly 8hrs later (2 hours for paint to dry) and it was together. Not the easiest install but it looks mean.

Oh and Silicone spray is a must for twisting pieces together.

If anyone wants certain pics let me know and I will try to get them."

Now for some pics:

So looking at it this morning I noticed that the antenna was not centered in the curve for it. I matched the template exactly to the edges of the fender as provided, so knowing that I could have gained close to an inch with the alignment in the inner fender. However I would have had to check more closely the clearance to the door and the upper part of the snorkel.



So here is a pic of the hole I first cut. Notice I cut the right side of the hole as well and it was not needed. Something to pay attention to as you install yours.



After I got everything installed I took it for a test drive. Because the pipe was touching the fender as the engine moved through the RPM band while driving it reached a small unbalanced part of the band and it vibrated the hell out of the fender.



So I came back and took the pipe off, removed the windshield wiper fluid tank and proceeded to cut some more. In the pic below you will notice I have clearanced the fender at least an inch all around. Also so you get an idea of how far off from the original hole I was you can see on the bottom the original hole which i "tried" to highlight with a yellow line.



After I did this and got it back together no more vibration issues through the RPM band.



And last but not least the finished product!!!



A couple of additional notes:

• If you go to a muffler shop and ask for aliminized pipe it is cheaper than stainless steel and it too will not rust. The shop I went to also did my exhaust and they did not charge me for the pipe but I did give them $20 as a tip and some beer money.
• Home Depot or Lowe's sell's a 4" (needed for the air filter box) to 3" cone to fit 3" pipe. Clamps come with it.
• 2- 3" clamps are included in the kit so you have enough to secure the rubber pipe included in the kit on both ends.
• Make sure to lengthen all of the holes in the fender for some flex room especially the 92mm hole. I did not lengthen this hole enough and as I fought with it to get it to line up ended up moving some of the sheet metal a bit. You cannot really see it but if I have made it longer like the template this could have been avoided.

Well that is all I can think of for now. Let me know if you have any other questions on this. It was certainly a trying install but I love the outcome.

Cheers!

 

Nice work!, I had the same problem with my install. But this snorkel is a cutsom install on the new tacomas so your goin to hit a speed bump.

 

Thanks! It was a pain on the install so I am hoping some of these pics makes it easier for those who are about to do this. Love the finished product. Although the wife and the mother in law think it is the ugliest thing I have done to it so far. Wait till I get a rear bumper and cut off half of the rear bed.

 

Same here man!! I missed out on the group buy and was suposed to take the blacklists place but its all good! I'll get it next time...

I spent most of my Tax return on front plate bumper and rear HC plate bumper!! So i can't wait to see my girls face!!

 

So today I got my snorkel on, but not fully hooked up yet. I ran out of time because I started late, cleaned everything I took off, & did some other stuff. Ill have the exhaust pipe at 8am tomorrow and show some finished pics inside the engine bay then.


Mud water almost into my filter with the stock intake. Good timing on the snorkel.



Fill this hole



and these



Poke some holes in the center line of the template holes - use these holes to mark the fender with a permanent marker.



Use the stock template (Hilux) to double check the modified template for any transposition errors. Also use this template to get the cut out location to enlarge the 3-5/8" hole.



Install the two bolts farthest back towards the cab. I put wax on the tips so it would transfer to the truck.



Test fit. Wax landed right where my original marks were.



Now it's time to tape everything up and get to putting some holes in the fender. I did not use a hole saw for the 3-5/8" hole. I free handed it with a cut off blade on my Dremel. I was going to use a hole saw, but the fender isn't flat. I also drilled this hole before the others. This let me check their placement with wax one last time very accurately before drilling them.





Test fit time. I cut off about 4" of hose test fitting till I bottomed the tube out on the snorkel and decided to enlarge the intake hole in the engine bay. Now that I look back at it, maybe the key to proper placement within the stock intake hole might be to actually trim some off of the snorkel so it sits farther back. Not sure yet, but Ill try it with the next install and report back.




I started the five holes with a 3/16" bit and worked up to a 1/2" bit (directions call for 5/8"). Then I used my Dremel with a 1/2" stone to elongate the holes horizontally for some play. As you can see I slipped and scuffed some paint on the lower one. After filing all the holes down I used Duplicolor primer to cover the exposed metal. It dries quick and adheres good + I had it laying around. Make sure to get the back of the holes as well.



Taped off the perimeter of the snorkel and applied DOW 795 structural silicone to each hole and the perimeter of the large hole.



Little more on the snorkel for good measure.



Marked and drilled the a-pillar holes. I started with a small bit and worked up to a 5/16". Then more primer. I filled the brush up with paint and loaded up the backside to make sure I covered the metal good.



Inserted the screw plugs.



Screws



The screw plugs give the snorkel a nice little gap from your a-pillar so it's not taking off paint with vibrations.



There are gaps where the body doers not line up 100% with the snorkel so I taped it off good and applied some more DOW 795 to the perimeter. This should also keep the weather out and it will cure to a flat finish.





Threw some more DOW on the stock intake and also on the 3" to 4" coupler then installed it and clamped it down.



Lines up good enough for me.



Fender shot with caulk and primer everywhere.



Parked and done for the night.





Think I need some black fenders now

 

, Looks good!, Nice work

 

Nice I like the idea of the DOW around the exterior of the Snorkel to keep the weather out. I might just apply that as well. I forgot the holes in the airbox I will have to get those this weekend. I also have a vibration at a certain RPM until the engine warms up. I think it has to with how close it still is to the windshield washer fluid res. But you gained some clearance since yours set back a bit more so you probably did not have that problem.

How big a hole did you have to cut in the inner fender?

 

Lookin good Boyd!!!

 

ahhh hahaha nice work!

 

Ill post some pics tomorrow when I'm done, but it's bigger then I would like it. Ill be sealing it back up so crap doesn't fly in.

Well you two are lucky I experimented on mine. Pretty sure we can get yours 100% after looking at your snorkels after I was done mine. Little snorkel trimming might just do it.

 

What are your plans to seal it up inside? When mine was touching the inner fender and linked to the engine the vibration from the engine caused the fender to rattle like a coffee can exhaust. I will be curious to see how you handle that part.

I am trying to figure out how to close it off more but hate that vibration. I am thinking I need some sort of thick foam padding to put around it.

 

Nice write up... What happens when the water goes over the snorkel?

 

use that spray foam stuff. thats what i'm going to use. that stuff is awesome.

 

To seal off the opening on the inner fender? I don't know if creating a locked position on the intake pipe is the way to go. As the engine vibrates it will transfer all sounds to that fender. Which is what I get a bit of now. Of course it is only while the engine is cold. Once it warms up and balances out the sound goes away. Also so you do not think I am crazy it only happens while in gear. So you can play with it all you want in park but you won't get the sound.

Anybody else that has a snorkel had this issue?

I am thinking it needs some cushioning on the side nearest the WW resi. Either that or I will turn up the volume on the radio and all sounds will go away.

 

Either I swim or drown!!

But that does bring up a good sabotage point. Back in the day you could sabotage someone by putting sugar in their gas tank right? Well now with the intake exposed to the outside world someone could pour water down the snorkel pipe if your truck is left outside and then you too would be in a world of hurt.

 

well that spray foam stuff is like an insulation and i believe it would absorb the vibration. i dont think it would transfer to the fender...experimentation is the only way to find out i guess.

 

True. I was playing with it at lunch today and it is not the tube touching the WW Resi as I wrapped it in various soft materials and drove it around the block. So I started beating on the fender a bit and can here a tinny loose sound in the fender. So I guess I will open it up this weekend and see if something is loose in there.

God I hope it isn't something stupid like i forgot to tighten one of the nuts.
But than again if it was that simple it would be nice.