(Engine Trashed?) Thread of Unfortunate Events

Have you considered un-installing the procharger to see if you can get the thing to run un-modified? Back to basics...

 

I've considered it but it's a pain to go back. It did drive fine for 6 months. I'm taking the intake back off tonight. Last time I drove it after removing the intake it drove perfect for an hour. Wondering if I shook something loose when I removed it last. Maybe a blockage. I was also able to turn the gears on the intake flapper and apparently you aren't suppose to be able to. Interesting thing is Magnuson SC deletes this flapper. Maybe the boost has a weird effect on it. I'm going to remove it tonight and see what happens. Almost right at 4k rpms my truck goes into limp mode if held. Drive it slow and it's fine - for the most part. I know you lose a lot of torque under 3500 if removed...but just trying to see if it resolved the misfiring. My procharger might compensate though for the flapper being removed.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-tacoma-in-limp-mode-fixed.659782/page-5

 

Do you have information on removing the direct injector? The psi makes me nervous.

 

Move over...

 

Make sure you get a proper diag first before pulling injectors. I would get a scanner with Toyota Active tests to test injectors. You see misfires in Direct Mode. If the injector is faulty, you should see misfires in Both Mode (above idle and 75% of engine load). Unless the tune altered the injection mode.

Removing does not seem to be hard, but installation does require special tools to put the seal on injector. And avoid cleaning the tip of the injector.

 

Have been following this thread to see the outcome and this seems like the obvious appropriate step unless i missed something. Test kit is less than $100 bucks from harbor freight and will instantly tell you if you have ring problem/ valve problem. If that tests good than you can look into other issues, but it would 100% be where I started. Simple and conclusive very easy to diy.

 

You're a legend

 

Okay, I'm buying a kit off Amazon now

 

$114 OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit , Black

OTC 5609 should be here by Thursday.

 

Amazon ftw. Hope it helps you narrow things down. I remember whenever I heard the term "leak down" for some reason I thought it was something more complicated. You're literally just pressurizing that cylinder with air to see if it maintains pressure. Couldn't be any more simple and again you will know pretty quickly if you have a valve problem or a ring problem. If those check out ok I'd bet your in for an easy repair somewhere else be it vacuum issue / fuel delivery related or otherwise.

 

With the scanner you bought on Amazon you can force the truck to be in port or direct injection. Connect to the engine computer and go to Active test (or similar name), there is an injection mode option there and you can switch between both.

Also, I briefly looked at the data you posted and you seem to be getting the code when you let off the throttle. Have you triple checked the waste valve on the supercharger? It might be getting stuck sending tons of compressed air when the engine is not expecting it. I would triple check that before anything else.

 

I tried to do some commands with that scanner and it was saying that I couldn't for some reason. There's a photo of the error in here somewhere.

It's a closed system. So it shouldn't waste any air. Its kind of confusing for me because yeah the supercharger pulls in tons of air and the MAF sees it. Then if I let off the throttle I assume the air escapes back out the intake? Idk. But I believe it is working properly. The code happens when I hit about 4k rpms under heavy load or some boost. Then the truck begins to lose power if I continue to keep it pegged I will then start getting random misfires with cylinder 4 having the most sometimes 15-20 at a time then it will go into limp mode for cyl 4 misfires. Climb the rpms steady and slow it will pull just fine. I do notice in live data that the long trim stays +6 to +17 when letting off the gas. Then when I put the truck under load fast the short trims just go to 0 until I let off the gas.

 

The procharger forums say the tune is the main way they protect the truck in an overboost situation (specifically pull timing). Seems a little weird to me since regulating boost with an external BOV or WG makes sense.

 

Following to see what you find

 

The screenshot I saw before from you was for Fuel Cut, try finding the injection mode option, it is there for sure and it works because I have done it in my Tacoma and btw, super off-topic, I've found it runs noticeable better on port injection compared to direct injection.

 

No clue about the misfire on 4 but if you haven’t changed the fuel rails out yet, I would. Stock fuel rails would be causing fuel issues on cylinder 6. Check this thread out, I ordered a set of rails off this guy after reading how much it helped a boosted 3.5. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ed-induction-port-fuel-rail-group-buy.766507/

 

Interesting...port only. So what they are stating is port injector 5 and 6 receive more fuel than cylinder 1 and 2? I could see the imbalance issue there but don't the injectors trigger at different times? As long as you don't notice the low pressure falling below 400kPs I don't see how the injectors on the opposite end of the rail would starve.

This is an interesting read will read more on the thread when I get off work. Thank you!

 

Port injection is all low pressure. Your truck can handle boost in port only?

 

Im definitely not sure what’s going on with yours, but I have seen issues where people with boosted 3Gs are running lean on one bank because I think the factory rails only flow from one side. Works fine NA, but when you start asking a lot more of the truck it becomes an issue. I got mine for something like $370 shipped, I’d say order a set to see if it makes a difference.

 

Did you notice a difference? I'd like to hear your experience with it. And absolutely worth a try if all else checks out good!