New calipers? Brake line leak, broken bleeder screw mess

Yesterday i noticed a bunch of fluid on my drivers side front wheel, and sure enough my brake line was leaking right at the caliper. I bought some brake line tubing but realized that i didn’t have a flaring tool, oops.
To make matters worse, i broke off the head of the bleeder screw on the caliper. I tried extracting it but it wasn’t budging, so i ended up drilling it out and re tapping the caliper threads. i tried my best to make sure nothing got inside the caliper by taking a shop vac to it every minute or so while drilling it out.

This leads me to my question: given where the leak was happening (see photo- could this be a caliper seal issue?) and being paranoid about metal all over the inside of my caliper, is this salvageable or should i just bite the bullet and replace the calipers? not sure what the history is on these calipers, Truck is going on 200k miles and funny enough i had planned to do a bunch of fluid flushes with my evening.. guess i didn’t have to drain the brake fluid

 

I’d replace the calipers and the hard lines

 

Calipers are easy enough to replace, and you probably won't have to do it again for a while. Not the cheapest fix but might as well just get it done.

 

Thank you Gentlemen. Any recommendations for aftermarket/affordable calipers on a 2nd gen?
Also - i got a good look at the pads when i was drilling away at the bleeder threads, and they have a lot of meat on them (i did the rotors and pads about 10k miles ago). am i good to re-use the pads when i install the new calipers? I did leave the pads in when i was drilling on the caliper (i was impatient) but i don't think anything got on them..

 

since you're doing the calipers anyway you could do the 13WH '03-09 4runner(opt. 17" wheel)/GX470 conversion for the bigger rotor(338x28mm vs. 319x28mm) and pad (231mm vs. 199mm) but utilizing the same piston sizes (45mm)

or do the 14WA, but i cant speak to how that works with the larger piston sizes and pedal feel

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-brakes-swaps-and-tech.468271/

 

Yes, you can just replace the caliper. I would try getting the bleeder loose on the passenger side too and if you snap it off, replace both. That would be my plan of attack.
And yes, you can reuse the existing pads. Just hose them off with some brake clean.

 

Remans are remans, they're not all worthless but you take your chances.

I've been going 100% new through our aftermarket suppliers like Worldpac and even OReilly. Napa Total Eclipse is decent and usually painted black

I generally avoid Cardone

 

I was looking into this… sounds intriguing! I saw mostly people swapping both the rotor and the caliper, can you just swap the caliper? I just did it he rotors not long ago but could be talked into a full swap if the improvement is worth it. Especially since it sounds like a pretty simple swap?

 

i would defer to someone with far greater knowledge on that subject, but i wouldnt think so since the 13WH is paired with a 338mm rotor and not a 319mm like the 13WG

its an easy swap but you do have to take the wheel hub assembly off to put the appropriately sized dust shield on, and you should make sure your wheel will clear the new calipers (17" is a safe bet)

i did mine a couple weeks ago since i had a front wheel bearing going out it was a great time to do everything at once

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-oe-nsk.537080/

 

If you already repaired the bleeder screw.
Brake clean / dry that brake line going into the caliper & be certain thats not the source of the leak.
Hard to tell from brake fluid everywhere..
Chances are the bleeder screw wasnt the source of the leak till you snapped it off.

 

The leak is probably from a pinhole in the S-shaped hard line, either due to tool strike, road debris, or corrosion. It's only $6 at the dealer parts counter, $4 online: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~tube~fr~brake~no~8~47318-04130.html

Go to your nearest Napa or O'Reillys and buy a reman caliper. Best to buy local so if you get a leak or other problems, it's easy to exchange, and it's easy to return the core. If you need to shop online, I've had good luck with Raybestos. BBB/Nugeon is fine too:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8466888&cc=1431544&pt=1704
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10927080&cc=1431544&pt=1704
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9650080&cc=1431544&pt=1704

The 338mm brake upgrade is probably bigger in scope than you were planning for at this point, but here's a thread for information: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-2nd-gen-tacomas.504234/page-21#post-26299782

 

Yeah, the bleeder was 100% me after the fact. I had taken the screw out and just over tightened it and it snapped off. Pretty positive that line into the caliper is where it’s coming from. I had the wife pump the brakes while i watched it

 

Yes, this has definitely gotten bigger than i expected (self inflicted) lol but now im intrigued!
The first portion of your reply is probably the responsible / efficient way to go about this, but i have been having some brake issues, especially in the mountains on steep, winding descents (smelly and spongy, even smoking which almost gave me a heart attack).
I’ve read this upgrade is a good idea if you carry extra weight, and with a hard shell topper, 33” tires and a steel bumper i wonder if I’m meeting the criteria..?

 

Looks great! I also think i have a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side (wheel won’t spin super freely when jacked up in neutral, passenger side spins like a top) so I’ve been meaning to replace that as well..
i am on 17” wheels so should be good. What brand(s) did you go with on this swap? I’ve been lost in threads trying to choose calipers that aren’t junk, perhaps I’m overthinking the whole thing but i do like to stop.
If you have the part numbers that would be awesome! Between the stock caliper replacement and now looking into all of these upgrade options Idk what im even looking at at this point. lol

 

Got it, so you isolated the source & not just hoping & praying it was coming from the caliper pistons...
Looks like the line could have been leaking but also straight line of fire of the bleeder screw...
Glad you isolated the leak....

 

I know it’s too late now, but for next time—try holding the fitting with a flare nut wrench, then clamp the wrench with vice grips and spin the caliper itself. That trick can work wonders sometimes.

 

Yep! I think I’ll stay simple for now and just replace the driver side caliper with a remanufacture, replace that line, and possibly upgrade the whole kit in the near future. Appreciate all of the help!

 

i went with NAPA Adaptive One remans, the part #s are 1797XB & 1797XA. If u go this route u also need dust covers 47781-60120 (front RH) & 47782-60120 (front LH)

 

What did you go with on the rotors? And pads are the same size?
Curious about the wheel bearing as well if you have recommendations for that. Might as well do both if I’m gonna do 1

 

Another related question on this. If you saw my first post, the brake fluid was EVERYWHERE including all over the tires. I cleaned the tires right away that same night, but had them off yesterday and these marks are still there, it’s like it ate at the tire and left these little ridges everywhere. Is this tire fine?? Probably getting new ones before winter but just wanna make sure they’re not going to explode haha