TELL ME WHERE I AM WRONG...I speak for many NEW GUYS to lifting

If i go with 885's i'll have to get UCA's (to be on the safe side) from what I have read. that is why i chose the 884's (approx. 2" before settling)

 

The settling will be minimal at best since the springs are scragged from the factory.

 

im in the same boat you are....im sure you saw my thread a couple down.

a bit of clarification is needed. sure there is a suspension faq thread, but once your edone reading that and come ask a question the reply you get it "not, do it this way" or..."it might work".

then after going to the vendor web sites, you see there are many bilstein 5100s for sale...which package?


very confusing.

im glad you also have a dc 4x4. once you get set to order your products, i can order the same lol. And i too can go look under my truck for what leaf springs i have......i looked, i have 3 leaf (i assume a non TSB set).

 

Possibly depending on the actual lift height. 885s seem to very alittle from truck to truck. So 884s and a 1.5 aal would probably put ya about where you want to be then

 

Well I'm not the expert...but I'm getting 5100's on all four corners (approx $280 with discount at Downsouth Motorsports). Front OME 884 springs (also at DSM for under $200) which will lift front approx 2" which is highest you can safely go and know you won't need UCA replacement. I don't want to use stock springs because it compromises ride quality. For the rear, I would go with the ICON progressive 3 leaf setup but they are sold out so I'll go with the similar set from Wheelers ($150+shipping). This will lift rear just under 2" so I will be leveling the truck a small amount also since the front is going the full 2". This setup will be improving ride quality while lifting it and it won't cost me an arm, a leg, and my hair because i won't be pulling it all out trying to fix other problems caused by lifting any higher. This route is pretty fool proof I think

Oh and BTW, yes you have a non-tsb setup. Only thing I haven't decided on yet is whether or not I'll be removing the factory overload leaf when I install the progressive AAL setup. I probably will.

 

I have been exactly where you are. I decided on the OME shocks and coils for the matched damping ARB states on the web site. I have the tsb 1.5 aal from toytec.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/149572-884-dble-cab-install.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/140680-884-885-2nd-gen-double-cab.html

Threads with more detail.
Now getting to UCA , i'm at 2 inches from stock and the best I could get was 0 toe , 0 camber and 1.4 caster. 1.4 is the minimum toyota recommends. I could gain more caster if i gave up some camber. Camber wears tires and caster doesn't so i wasn't gonna move on that one. So i AM looking at camburg UCA to get my lost caster back. I thought as you do that with so many threads out there and guys are able to lift without changing UCA and keep alignments within spec. Yes you can BUT it might cost you something like a little darty on the highway or different feel from factory. Just keep your eyes open when you pull the trigger and lift because eveybody is different and what one guy likes might not be what you like.
I definitly like the lift and the ride is much better than stock , but i will be tweaking with UCA's and possibly a new aal because I want more capacity.
Cheers and Good Luck

 

+1 very good explination....thanks

 

Any reason you aren't jumping on the group deal on the LR UCA?

 

yea $$$$$.

 

Yes I am not looking at the LR UCA cause the ball joint that fits that arm is unique. Meaning you can only replace that ball joint with one from them. The arm has a slot in it that only accepts the "adjustable" ball joint that has settings for the castor you want, then you can slide it in or out for camber. The only thing holding it there is the "torque" of the nut. I am sure that this is more than adequate but I am more comfortable with something else.
I want an arm that you can install a more universal ball joint. The camburg arms have the "hole" where I can install the toyota ball joint, if desired, or an aftermarket one like Moog. The moog is greaseable and is available at any local parts store. This gives me more choice and dosen't limit me to availablity from one source. Pay a little more now or ???? more later. I don't like unknowns.
Cheers

 

I did what you want....the ride is awesome, better than stock!!!

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/159342-2010-toyota-tacoma-tsb-5100s.html

 

great thread!

 

Well, that sucks. I just bought a new set of 5100s for the rear to match the 5100s I'm sticking up front. Ever since I lifted the rear (TSB with ToyTec 1.5" TSB AAL while still using stock TRD-offroad shocks) I get a harsh WHAM! when I hit bigger bumps at speed. I've always felt that it was due to the stock shocks hitting their full extension stops. If the 5100s are the same length, then I just wasted my money! It looks like 5125s or a custom length set of 5100s from DSM would give me the correct amount of travel I need.

 

Did the OP ever pull the trigger? Would like to see before and after pics and get a read out on I'm new UCA was needed in the end. want to do a very similar lift.

 

He probably got the lift but probabyl didn't need new UCAs.
I got a full 3" front & rear lift with OME 885s & Dakars and still have stock UCAs. Toe & camber are 0* caster is just out of spec but no driving problems.

 

I am curious how it worked out for the op as well.

 

I have Eibachs and the rear tsb springs and that's it. I just upgraded my wheels and tires to 33's. I do have some rubbing, but the rubbing is on plastic parts ie. mud flap. I can achieve full steering lock in either direction, and the ride is great. I'm not gonna post another pic because in my elation I posted all over the board! Haha! A lot of it has to do with tire size and wheel specs for success. My lift cost me the price of the coils from another member who never got around to installing them, and pushing toyota to upgrade my leafs after they shot me down once. This forum was instrumental in all of it. I feel sorry for those tacoma owners who don't have this information available to them.

 

This might be an obvious answer, but does adding new coils (884s), bilstein 5100s, and an aal void the manufacturer warranty?

 

Thank you for posting this thread. I have a similar truck and had similar questions.

 

No, it does not but Toyota will obviously not warranty the aftermarket parts. Where it gets tricky is say if your wheel bearings or needle bearing goes out while still under warranty. The dealership will point at the lift and say that's what caused the premature failure even though it may not be the case.

In short, it won't void the warranty but could make getting certain driveline parts warrantied more of a fight.