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Adding some new D-rings in bed

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Iluvtacos, Nov 4, 2011.

  1. Nov 4, 2011 at 5:29 PM
    #1
    Iluvtacos

    Iluvtacos [OP] Active Member

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    adding xtra d-rings
    I was about to add four d-rings to my bed at the bolts on the floor when I started reading the instructions which came with them. The d-rings were purchased from a Toyota dealer. I have attached a copy of the instructions. Let me hear some feedback. I like placement of these d-rinds but would like to hear if it would compromise the structural rigidity of the bed where these will be attached.
    Thanks
    RC
    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG]
     
  2. Nov 4, 2011 at 5:42 PM
    #2
    t4daddy

    t4daddy Well-Known Member

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    Why noy put them under the existing bed bolts, like most do? That way you need no backing plate. If you attach to the bed liner itself be SURE to use a backing plate, or you could pull the nut through the composite liner.
     
  3. Nov 4, 2011 at 7:59 PM
    #3
    johnanm

    johnanm Well-Known Member

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    Got my rings and going to do this tomorrow in front and middle. I'm definitely going to use the bed bolts as mounting points.
     
  4. Nov 4, 2011 at 9:35 PM
    #4
    Mitch

    Mitch Somebody call for a Wambulance?

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    Are those from the stealership?
     
  5. Nov 5, 2011 at 12:33 PM
    #5
    primer

    primer Well-Known Member

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    Tried to do mine today. After 45min I was unable to get any of the 4 bed bolts to budge. Lots of WD40 and struggling.

    I'm not the strongest tool in the shed or the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I can usually find a way to get things done. The weak link seems to be keeping the torx bit in the bolt. I can't really put all my muscle into it without the bit slipping out of the bolt. I don't have a good cheater bar - but even if I did I'm not sure it would help.

    Anyone else have trouble with this?
     
  6. Nov 5, 2011 at 12:50 PM
    #6
    t4daddy

    t4daddy Well-Known Member

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    Some folks have this happen, I used an impact driver, lubed with anti-seize upon reassembly.
     
  7. Nov 5, 2011 at 12:55 PM
    #7
    Whitster

    Whitster Well-Known Member

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    I, too, put my Toyota d-rings under the existing forward bed bolts. Used a T55 torx wrench out of a set of six from Tool King. These look like allen wrenches. Just slipped a two-foot pipe over it and they both loosened with no real effort.

    Just don't think mounting them to plastic is the best idea. I threw the left-over plates in the junk drawer.

    I did use some anti-seize when putting those long bed bolts back in. They were kinda hinky coming out.

    Whit
     
  8. Nov 5, 2011 at 12:55 PM
    #8
    primer

    primer Well-Known Member

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    That's why I quit for now. The one I was working on the most still looks OK, but every time the bit slips out I know it's stripping a little.

    I'll hit it with the WD40 periodically and hopefully it will soften things up.

    Not sure if I'm coordinated enough to use my knee that way. We'll see. I really don't want to drill more holes in the bed.


    TL
     
  9. Nov 5, 2011 at 1:19 PM
    #9
    xJuice

    xJuice My spoon is too Big!

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    I did mine just like the paper says. No structural problems at all. I just wouldn't go cranking down 4" industrial straps as hard as you can on them. If I were to do it again, I'd mount them a few inches higher though.
     
  10. Nov 5, 2011 at 1:29 PM
    #10
    Whitster

    Whitster Well-Known Member

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    If you're using a socket-type Torx, put the socket on a break-over bar then when you apply torque to the bar/pipe, give the bar/bolt head a sharp rap with a hammer. This will oftentimes ease the bolt's 'stretch' enough to pop it loose.

    (Works for tightening too, ask any gunsmith)

    Whit
     
  11. Nov 5, 2011 at 1:42 PM
    #11
    Texio

    Texio Well-Known Member

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    I used the D-rings from an army surplus store: 1/4 of the price of OEM, and much stronger. Put them under the bed bolts and torqued them back to about 60 lbs. Has been working well so far!
     
  12. Nov 5, 2011 at 1:58 PM
    #12
    rwalker

    rwalker Well-Known Member

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  13. Nov 5, 2011 at 4:20 PM
    #13
    Texio

    Texio Well-Known Member

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  14. Nov 5, 2011 at 4:39 PM
    #14
    rwalker

    rwalker Well-Known Member

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    Yes thank you!:)
     
  15. Nov 5, 2011 at 5:21 PM
    #15
    95SLE

    95SLE Starting to get cold outside

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    Try a 50/50 mixture of brake fluid and auto trans fluid. let it sit overnight. The bolts should be able to be removed. Do not get any of this mixture on a painted surface.
     
  16. Dec 20, 2011 at 8:03 AM
    #16
    Tacobato

    Tacobato Member

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  17. Dec 20, 2011 at 8:11 AM
    #17
    Geo Taco

    Geo Taco Well-Known Member

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    I put mine in the factory location and they work great... I don't see any need to mess with the bed bolts.
     
  18. Dec 20, 2011 at 8:20 AM
    #18
    hendooman

    hendooman The Stroker Ace

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    Are you using the T55?, seems I remember it being a real tight fit, and slipping was not an issue. I used the bed bolts as well with a cheater bar,had to put a ton of muscle in it, but they came and did not slip out.
     
  19. Dec 20, 2011 at 9:12 AM
    #19
    Texio

    Texio Well-Known Member

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    I removed mine with no problem using a torque wrench and a T55 bit, as a matter of fact they come out a little too easily for my liking... but after I was done I torqued them back to 60lbs as per specs. My truck was very new at the time, only about 2500 miles, so I expected the bolts to be harder to remove, being closer to factory condition. Maybe with time rust and dirt make the bolts seize a bit? Still, it shouldn't be that hard, using the correct size bit and an appropriately sized wrench.
     
  20. Apr 8, 2013 at 2:12 PM
    #20
    mobgma

    mobgma Well-Known Member

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    I want to do this mod but am hoping someone can offer some insight.

    I am going to add the DRings the the side of the box which is where they intend. I am also going to add them to the box floor utilizing the frame bolt per the OP.

    I was thinking of installing the DRing through a cleanly drilled whole of the bed mat that would be in line of the bolt that goes into the frame. This way they are over the bed mat and look good without having to cut the bed mat out. I really don't want to cut the bed mat because it looks so good! This would also act somewhat as a deterrent from someone stealing the bed mat or possibly it come flying out of by box since it is fastened down as well.

    Would having 1/2" less engaged threads into the bed frame be detrimental? The bed mat is 1/2" so I would lose that in thread engagement.

    Has anyone tried what I am thinking? Any success or pictures?

    Thanks
     

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