yellow wire mod ABS off and VSC off

I just did the yellow wire mod about 5 days ago or so on my 2012 Taco and everything went great. I removed the wire from the connector and insulated it. Now my dash lit up like a christmas tree tripping off the ABS light and the VSC light while driving some days later. Any ideas what it could be? I JUST hopped into the car after a visit to the gas station and just as I started leaving both lights came on and haven't come off since, I put over 20 miles on it since that time at least. For the record I did just take it offloading a couple days ago and got stuck in a fairly large mud puddle, but any problem from then would had reared its ugly head during that time and had stayed until fixed right?

Some preliminary things I tried already:

- Checked my Yellow wire mod to see if the tape that is holding the wire away everything for some odd reason came loose, it's fine
- Attempted shifting into 4H, and 4L, engage perfectly
- Disconnected battery and pumped the brakes for about 10 seconds, plugged back in. Lights are still on.

 

Bump, finally got to a computer to edit the first post.

 

Sounds like you may have pulled the wrong one. Top plug second down on left. Yellow with thin black line? Did you disconnect the battery when you did it?

 

Yeah it was the second one down from the plug, it does everything the same way a normal yellow wire mod does it. The 4LO blinks when engaged now and the buzzer still works but only difference was that it had VSC and TRAC. I pulled the negative off the battery and waited a little bit before plugging it back in. Everything was working perfectly fine prior to tonight after filling up at the gas station.

One more thing I just went out there and did was pull the plug to the brake master cylinder and the traction control light did not turn on nor did the brake light stay illuminated even after disengaging it.

 

BY THE WAY....... I feel the need to mention that I have occasionally felt a slight shudder or vibration which I thought was from the rear end which I have been experiencing for a while when driving at a very low parking lot speed. I ran into something insanely interesting while doing some detective work at the Tundra forums: Post #'s: 3, 6, and 8

I'm going to go check my gas cap right now and my coils tomorrow morning. I get the feeling I have water somewhere where it shouldn't be.

EDIT: One other thing I found. This is an old article and doesn't particularly pertain to Tacoma's but since we share the same engine as the 4runner I figured I might as well put some info out there. Take it with a grain of salt...

 

Okay. I have a question. Tons of you have been looking at this thread but nobody has commented. If you are going to view and know some answers, at least answer me this one question. How long does it take to do a reset of the VSC by using the paper clip method? (Pin 4 and 12 shorted while the ignition is on) It's kinda cold out tonight and I have no clue how long the reset takes, but from what I know the VSC light as well as 4WD and diff lock lights have to be solid when it is doing it's ZERO calibration.

 

Bump. One answer is all I need at this point because I uncovered it all myself.

 

Hmm.. So the reset with the paperclip would't be as useful as unplugging the battery?

 

VSC reset doesn't take long at all, about 5-10 minutes tops and unplugging battery does not reset vsc/yaw sensors. I have the yellow wire mod and I don't remember my vsc/abs being lit up with this at 4HI. 4LO rarely gets used. I believe it vsc/abs turns off.

 

I was hoping you'd chime in. I'll just leave the truck on the on position of the ignition while the paperclip is in pin 4 and 12 of the DLC connector and in the meantime ill drink a beer and enjoy the nice sunny day. Does that sound about right?

 

Just follow the instructions here, it's fairly simple.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/41215-lift-vsc-answer.html#post691254

 

Sound like you might have two things going on here

I suggest you remove the paper clip. First, you must get the right steps in the right order for doing a zero point calibration, and do it last, not now. If you landed the zero point calibration somewhere midway in the sequence you will get the erratic flashing lights. Go back to the FSM and erase the zero point calibration for now just to start eliminating things, then do it later as the last step once you get things operational.

Although a bit different symptoms, a couple of people have posted problems doing this. Here is one, see post No. 37: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/51946-4low-trac-2.html

I believe there is another early post I saw here or on another forum somewhere where the Christmas tree lights appeared too for the guy doing the same type of thing. In both cases it was operator error in doing the procedure.

The VSC and ABS remained active on mine and were not disabled by the mod, although I wish they would have been disabled.

As far as the flashing "Lo" light is concerned, it is a logic sequence. You must first engage 4Hi, then 4Lo, then break continuity in the yellow wire as the last step. Otherwise it flashes. For those who have snipped the wire, you have gotten out of sequence, that is why it flashes. Briefly touch the clipped wire together again while it is flashing. The flashing goes to a solid green 4Lo and you still have 4Lo Trac.

I wired a real ATRAC switch in mine to keep the sequence correct so the light would not flash. If the engine is killed, the light starts flashing again. However, I just briefly tap the ATRAC switch to make 4Lo soild.

Good luck.

 

So what you are saying is that this abs and vsc light due to incorrect mod procedures of the yellow wire mod?

 

No.

What I am saying is simplify it. A dash full of lights freaks all of us out. You set out to do the yellow wire mod and that is your goal.

If you erase the zero point calibration, it allows you to focus on the yellow wire mod and get it right without a bunch of other flashing lights and buzzers to distract you. Then do the zero point calibration later. Otherwise you are trying to cross-think two different systems.

BTW, I believe I had to modify the zero point calibration procedure a bit from that in the old FSM. When the '09s came out some of that changed with all the new electronic nannies. I'll look at my notes to confirm this and when you get that point let me know.

 

Hey Roberto,

Any way you can get a code scanner on that truck that will do ABS too? Reason I ask is my wife's car will throw the traction control, cruise control and some other light and disable each one of those features any time any check engine light (CEL) is tripped whatsoever. It will also occasionally light and disable those other things for just a pending code that does not illuminate the CEL. Just a wild idea on my part.

 

Check your yellow wire mod connections. You shouldn't have any lights on for this mod.

 

Here's the thing, I already did the yellow wire mod, but I pulled it out of the connector and prior to doing it I did pull a terminal from the battery. Like I said everything was fine for days until I filled up with gas. Then all of a sudden here comes the freak out. One thing I do want to mention is that I felt stuttering as I took off which I thought was from the rear.

My dad has access to tons of scanners and high tech gadgetry. I may have to talk to him here very soon about borrowing his stuff so I can scan it and get a physical readout of what the f is going on. I may have some answers about what is going on tomorrow.

As I didn't for a couple of days, then all of a sudden after filling up with gas the lights just came on out of nowhere and have been on since no matter what I do. I also want to mention that I talked to one the service writers at my work and he said that it takes 2 to 3 cycles to trigger the system freak out and over 40 cycles for it to turn back off. One of the first things he mentioned was to check my gas cap but obviously that is okay because I checked it multiple times.

 

You are on the right track now. Keep pursuing it.

Trying to diagnose these kinds of electrical issues without codes and from long distances often does not work very well. Keep us posted as it may help others.

For whatever its worth, before there were pictures posted on this mod, one guy was having all kinds of trouble finding the correct wire in that junction block (J/B No. 2) as it has a number of yellow wires. Among other things, the factory electrical wiring diagram shown for it in the '09 hard-bound manual (page 36) is printed upside down!

Good luck.

 

codes pulled from abs module and they are as follows

u0123 lost communication with yaw rate sensor module
u0124 lost communication with acceleration sensor module

I tried to clear them and no luck. A quick visit to identifix deems me nothing on the issue. Anyone have any clue as to what is going on. is it indeed due to the yellow wire mod I have done. i am running out of ideas and all the information comes up whacky on the module.

 

Did you check your wiring? Perhaps it got disconnected somehow.