New England B.S. Thread

Cereal probably is better than my old Colorado was..piece of shit.

 

yeah, that sucks. worst part is, afterwards you realize you couldve used that time to seek other opportunities.

 

Looking at the Colorado is what motivated me to buy a Tacoma. At the time it wasn't even about reliability, just lack of options.

 

i had a colorado. most fucked up thing was the front rotors were pressed into the wheel bearings fucking shitbox.

 

Mine puked the head at 78k. This "free" job cost me about 2 grand for all the other shit the head ruined. The dealer lied to me repeatedly and GM agreed but still stood unwaveringly by him. Traded that heap in for my Tacoma..and thank God I never had to do that front brake job, WTF..

 

Just makes me appreciate my wife more, although sometimes she can grind my gears I got to say nothing like an independent person.

 

thats fucked. and yes the front brakes were a huge WT Fuck. took them to have them replaced, garage broke the fucking ABS sensors while in the process, threw a bunch of codes, so i finally get it fixed, and the rear drums fuck up and go "out of round." it literally felt like i had a blown rear tire from like 30 and under, the vibe was so bad. BUT, the jerp i traded it in for also was a piece of shit, and would like "hiccup" if you were just driving along giving it steady throttle, cruise control wouldnt shift down or keep the speed you set it at, so i guess it didnt work worth a fuck, AC was intermittent, would work sometimes, and now work other times... American made vehicles = pieces of fucking shit.

 

Are there any trails that i can ride on around mass if I have a stock setup i eventually want to get probably an ome sup would love to slowly get into this off road stuff buy my kids get into the funds lol u guys all sound like a lot of fun but there isn't shit here on cape cod

 

Do not waste you money. You will have less rotating mass yea but this will not put power too the wheels what so ever. Don't waste your time. Now If you had a supercharger and wanted more power you could always just run a smaller upper and a larger lower both light weight of course.

Possible at the crank but with the power lost through your drive-line it will not be noticeable, Only gains from these things is that they corrode in the winter from the salt spray LMAO and the engine will rev slightly faster due to less rotational mass

 

so back to my original thought, a CAI, with MAF CAL, as well as my exhaust, would produce a decent gain right?

 

Autos normally consume about 20% of the engines rated crank/flywhell horsepower. Now to find actual gains of wheel HP look up the claiming spec of these products and add the lowest number to you stock rated HP I will show you below on how to calculate for wheel HP

Multiply your known crankshaft horsepower by 0.20 for an automatic or by 0.16 for a manual, then subtract that from the known crankshaft horsepower to derive wheel horsepower.

I'm not sure what the MAF CAL is on the 4.0 If you can send a link and specs i can tell you if it's a waste of time and money. CAI are a waste just saying unless you are running forced induction, only gain is sound on a v6. some V8 american vehicles benefit. Most foreign automakers tune their vehicles to the max N/A so bolt on gains are less likely.

If you want to feel a gain do headers. I can go way technical with this this is my nerdy automotive performance my MAJOR actually lol

Speaking for the 4.0
Headers
6-cylinder naturally aspirated with a maximum usable RPM of 5,500 should have a header with a primary pipe diameter of about 1½ inch and a primary pipe length of 34-36 inches,A 6-cylinder engine should have two collectors with cylinders 1, 2, and 3 joining into one collector and cylinders 4, 5, and 6 joining into the other collector. A Y-pipe could then be used to join the two collectors before feeding into the exhaust pipe.
Exhaust tubing and Muffler
Most performance pipes are formed with mandrel bends which do not narrow the diameter of the pipe where it curves. This reduces unwanted restrictions and keeps the exhaust flowing freely basically (you breath better with a clear nose not a stuffy one) with a universal muffler the gains are not as much as a direct bolt on cat back system, when you order a kit the pipes are larger to reduce back pressure and increase flow. Most manufactures claim 15-25hp per system this is only determined on the the displacement of the engine itself, the bigger displacement the more gain (no replacement for displacement)
Air Intake Systems
The main aim in improving engine breathing, is to identify restrictions that impede the air flow in and out the engine, illuminate these restrictions and improve air flow, or use a pump to force more air into the engine (aka forced induction IE supercharger or Turbo systems) Should either the air filter or air box be restricting air flow, replacing the air box and air filter with a high-flow cone air filter, such as a K&N air filter, is the best option. But you must box the cone air filter to ensure that hot under hood air does not enter the air intake. On naturally aspirated engines, under hood temperatures can be as much a 30º above the ambient air temperature.
MAF Systems and CAL's
There are 3 types of MAF's
-The hot-wire mass air-flow sensor, which does not cause much air flow restriction.
The hot-wire air-flow sensor, which is often called the mass air-flow sensor, doesn't present much restriction to the air flow as it is usually about the same size as the bore of the air intake duct. you can swap out the mass air-flow sensor for a larger one from the same car manufacturer, but you would need to reprogram the engine control unit (ECU) so that it can accurately measure the increased air flow rate. If your stock ECU is not re-programmable, you may need to install a programmable aftermarket ECU
-The vane-type air-flow sensor, which has a spring tensioned swinging flap
The vane-type air-flow sensor, with its swinging flap is more reliable than the hot-wire mass air-flow sensor but it does present some air flow restriction. You can swap out these air-flow sensors for larger units, but you would need to reprogram the ECU to ensure the correct air flow readings
-The Karmen vortex type air-flow sensor, which is used mainly by Mitsubishi.
The Karmen vortex-type air-flow sensor that is used my Mitsubishi is an oscillatory air-flow sensor that measures the vibrations of the downstream vortexes caused by the barrier placed in the air stream. These air-flow sensors represent the greatest restriction to air flow, and they are the most difficult to adapt for better air flow.
Throttle Body Restrictions
The throttle body is another potential restriction in the air stream. Again, you should use a water manometer to measure the air flow at various RPMs before and after the throttle body. Generally, the throttle bore should be the same diameter as the air intake duct. If it is not, you may need a larger throttle body. Sometimes the stock throttle body has enough wall thickness to allow you to machine it to a larger bore, eliminating the need for a compatible idle air control. Most throttle bodies will allow at least a 2 mm increase in the throttle bore while most will allow and increase of up to 5 mm, and even 7 mm

Hope you all can understand this just typed a damn novel for Naturally Aspirated performance and what you should know, sorry for the in-depth explanations

 

Been doing it for months!

Beat me to it!
Scott welded my sliders on for me, he does great work!
He didn't fabricate them for me though, but i've seen his work and it's nice!

 

Thanks for the short novel Dave.

I still want to supercharge in the future, so I think getting the pulleys would be worth it. They don't have a larger crank pulley for the 4Runner to overdrive the supercharger, they have full overdrive kits though at NST. Maybe the crank pulley IS bigger, I dunno...

I want 355 dyno'd RWHP. I love how URD uses a red 4Runner to demo the supercharger. Makes me want it more

 

Still under warranty.

Thanks Brian. I will have the dealer fix it under warranty this time. But it sounds like it will happen again in the future due to the carbon buildup.

 

My 4Runner has never had carbon buildup issues

 

The door lock actuators themselves cost $220 each for the part alone I believe. I would not go to a dealer for this problem unless you have a lot of money that you want to blow.

I did the door lock actuator fix because my driver's side door was acting up, doing exactly what Tony's is doing. Well, it finally became completely non-responsive to the fobs so I did the fix described in that thread. It worked! It worked perfectly for another 2 years and now I need to do another tear down because it's starting to act up again.

Tony, if you're under warranty, take it to the dealership. They will replace the whole actuator. Toyota will not tear apart the actuator and do the fix described in the thread above, they just replace the part.

Looking at the Ford Ranger drove me to get a Tacoma. I had 2 Rangers in high school and college and they were pretty decent. The Ford dealership made a lot of mistakes, they let me test drive a model I specifically told them I did NOT want, tried the whole taking my keys trick and the new Ranger (at that time) was a POS. Ford completely ruined that truck from what it was. I was not impressed with it at all so I walked out and ended up buying a Tacoma the next week.

 

I wouldn't waste my time with a CAI, I'd just do a drop in filter to the existing intake. The only CAI I'd consider would be the URD with the MAF calibrator (horrible for off roading though). Keep in mind that some CAI can rob low end power and give you gains on the top end. As far as exhaust, again I don't think it's worth the money unless you're going with headers, crossover pipe and then a cat-back. If I were to do an exhaust, I'd go with short tube headers. They seem to give you gains in a usable RPM range, long tubes are more top end gains.

 

Just make sure whatever pulleys you are replacing are not needed for engine damping...

 

Sup guys. Just throwing this out there if you wanna check it out. My first real mod! heeheeehe
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/265945-my-take-more-subtle-led-cupholder-mod.html

 

There sure are, keep an eye on this thread
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/north-east/258758-ne-area-wheeling-trip-plans.html