New England B.S. Thread

This will give you a idea of how to do it . This is a elocker diff though.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...removal-installation-e-locker-3rd-member.html

 

we rubilt stuff all the time but toyota and other imports replace assemblies. I could never rape a job like that. I rebuild starters and window motors lol. If a R&P goes they dont get a new diff lmao that shit gets rebuilt. I'm doing the rangers front D60 rear tomorrow then it's getting the Hobart with a 1/4x2x2" block melted in the middle

 

Thanks David. Ya the plan is to get it done as soon as possible. I want to do my diff fluid front and rear to synthetic at the same time

 

Ya like we talked about I think you are right. Mine is more rumble strip feeling and goes away in 4H so it will be about 75.00 for the parts

 

Billy aren't you still under warranty?

 

See this is my issue.. I don't know that anything is actually wrong with my rear end. I took the truck in to verify the sound I had was my carrier bearing. How should I know? I get a slight clunk when I am rolling in reverse (not putting in gear ) but only after about 10 ft.

Thanks I used ECGS for my needle bearing swap to the bushing. I will check it out if I need to swap out the 3rd. But I am a sport with the 8.4.
I will need to look it up but mechanically I can do it. I just like to study before I get deep in there.

I remember reading that..

I will do my homework on this... No doubt I can do the work. Just wish I didn't have to do it on a gravel driveway. May need to use a friends lift for this if anything is actually wrong.

Thanks! Bookmarking for now.
Sorry I didn't reply back last night. I played in a golf tourney yesterday and was wiped out. I did win closest to the pin thou!!

 

The dealership is retarded and has no idea what they're talking about. The whole point of a mechanical LSD is to make both tires turn the same direction under power.

What makes you think there is something wrong with your differential to begin with? If it's chattering, change the oil and make sure you put the friction modifier in the differential. I would also avoid synthetic for the rear as it tends not to play nicely with the mechanical LSD.

Mine's like a rumble strip at times, but putting it in 4H doesn't do anything. I'm actually leaning toward taking my truck to a driveline shop and letting them diagnose it. There's something wrong and I don't know if I really want to start throwing parts at it to figure out what it is. Figure I'll replace the u-joints and carrier since I know they need it and, if I still have vibrations, let the shop diagnose it for me.

 

Yup but lifted so I figure they will deny the work

 

That sounds like a good plan. I would do the same replace what I know is an issue and see what happens after that

 

Mike, What do you have for vibs? Mine are at highway speeds. I thought the shims fixed it, but sure enough it didnt. I think its somewhere in the driveline since you can feel the whole truck vibrate slightly. Its fine on short trips, but on road trips it gets annoying

 

I hear ya there. I'm at the mileage where a lot of things could be wearing out so it could be one thing or multiple things failing. The vibrations I was having from a loose carrier have gotten a lot worse and I don't know as if it's all the carrier at this point. This weekend, I'll get it up on a lift and see what's what. It's getting really bad now, it feels like a wheel is out of balance but it comes and goes, usually under load.

 

They're all over the place. I have the take off vibration just under 10 MPH, I get vibrations any time I'm under high-torque applications (up hills, towing, etc), I get another vibration around 30 and again sometimes around 70 MPH. I'll also get random vibrations while driving through twisty back roads. Sometimes these are small vibrations, sometimes it's like riding a rumble strip. The one thing I was worried about was the rear seal coming out of the x-fer case but nothing's showing any signs of leaking and it still feels tight.

The slight take-off vibe and the slight 30 MPH vibe has been there for a long time and were always very, very minor. The rest is new and the rumble strip vibration is also new.

 

I've got a new Relentless Fabrication IFS skid for 2nd gen that just needs some modification to fit if someone is looking for a DIY deal. $175. I'm just local brokering for Eric. Details here: LINK

 

You guys with the driveline vibes should also be thinking about your u-joints. My first sign of my joints going was a slight vibration almost like a rubbing feeling at highway speeds. Changed my front and rear u-joints in my rear driveshaft and they are gone. Also when you guys are greasing them you need to make sure that you keep going until you see grease coming out of each of the 4 sides of the joint. I didn't know that last part and under did it.

 

^^^ Scott.

 

My u-joints are still tight, no play whatsoever. I'll be replacing them just because I have to take them apart to replace the CB and I might as well while it's apart. I've been properly greasing them since day 1, always pump until grease starts to come out of each corner.

While it's apart, I'm going to grease the slip yoke like NH Mike suggested and see if that helps get rid of the clunk I get when I stop.

 

Scott has skids or will soon enough.

 

Posted a video of the ct/ri spot so you could a idea of the roads. There are many different go around a too.

 

They will cover it

 

Fixed for you...