Left front wheel bearing replacement

is it possible to replace a front wheel bearing on a 2009 Tacoma 4x4 myself at home or does it require special tools ?

 

Should just be normal tools but you will have to get a shop to press the bearing in for you.

 

so I just need to take the hub and spindle assembly off and have shop press them? also where can I get the bearing? I tried auto zone and when they pulled the part # up all that came up was a new hub with no bearing!!!! unless he was just a dumb ass

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...s-4x4-sale-complete-best-price-ever-save.html

this guy is good from what i hear. i need a rear bearing hear soon gonna buy mine from him probably next month.

 

I got mine from rockauto for $40.00 each. check them out.

 

Kevin is a great guy! He has built a ton of wheel bearing hubs for not only TW members, but other Toyota forums! Plus he is an ace mechanic in real life.

 

so I cant get one at an auto parts store, or are ya'll just saying that it would be better to get it from these places?

 

just easier. kevin is flat price with shipping i believe. and comes pressed. just need to swap out the old with the new. im a mechanic as well and its pretty easy.

 

Thank you very much. I'm gonna check him out.

 

no problem. happy to help

 

I just got a bearing/hub assembly for my prerunner from Bamatoy1997. He sells them for 4x4 too. There is another member on here that also sells them already assembled.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...ub-solution-ive-done-work-you-save-money.html

I don't remember what wrench is needed for the shaft on 4x4. PreRunner was really easy.
Only tool i had to go buy was a 17mm crows foot adapter for my torque wrench. The 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly onto the knuckle are partially covered so you can't get at them with a normal socket.

 

let me also ask. if the wheel bearing is roaring but stops when I turn right in a curve, then which side would it be

 

easiest way to check the bearing is jack the front end up, put two jack stands under the frame for safety and grab the tire at 12 & 6. push the top, pull the bottom to check for play or put a breaker bar / shovel under the tire and pull up. There should be no play/wiggle.

 

I have tried that but there is no play on either side but I have a loud roaring and vibration at 45 mph and over that stops when I turn right.. also does anyone know the size of the cv axle nut ? looks like a 36mm but I wanna be sure

 

That check didn't work for me. Even had a local shop check the front end. No play at all. They had no clue was was causing the noise. I was also getting vibrations at 65mph.

My noise quite when turning right and it was the left bearing bad. But most people seem to say if it quits when you turn right, it's the right side you need to change. Both of mine were actually really noisey when spinning by hand. Only 1 was causing noise/vibration while driving though.

If you can safely get both fronts off the ground at the same time, spin the tires 1 at a time and see if one sounds louder than the other.

Both of mine were actually really noisey but trying to be cheap I only got one bearing. Now hearing the old next to new, I know I really should buy one for the other side.

 

36mm ?

 

I don't know the size but the CV nut but the other thread says torque it to 173 ft-lb when you reassemble.

There is a video here too.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...-done-work-you-save-money-33.html#post7843008

 

the axle nut is 35mm. I cannot stress the importance of torquing it to 173 ft/lbs.

 

Thank you.

Yes, I'd say my option is by far the easiest & most convenient. I take the leg work out of the job & decrease the downtime of the truck.

Also, if the surface of the hub is pitted where the seal makes contact is damaged on your original hub, your looking at bearing failure sooner than later.

Thanks Jeff

You can also spin each wheel and listen for grinding.

 

The genral rule is that if the noise goes away on a right turn, then the right bearing is bad, due to the unloading of that side in the turn. However some people have actually found that the left one is bad. The best way to know for sure is of course, as mentioned, to lift the truck on jack stands (Be safe!!) and spin the wheel, while listening for a noise.

Hey, thanks for the support! The job itself is pretty easy. If you can do a brake job on your truck, you can tackle this. The most important tools you need are a torque wrench capable of the 173 lb-ft of torque, and the 35mm socket for the center nut. I agree with NJ here that the nut torque is the most crucial part of the installation. The mounting bolts use a 17mm wrench, and the torque for them is 59 lb-ft. You can torque them with a crow foot adapter as mentioned. Just be sure to measure the length of the adapter and use one of the many online calculators to calculate out the difference in torque when using the adapter.

Good luck, and let me know if you need any help.