Is $700 too much for OEM cv axle+install?

This is what the dealership quoted me. Do you think I could get it installed at a repair shop for less? I can get an OEM cv axle for $326 before shipping from camelback toyota. It's cold as shit here right now and I don't have a heated garage to work in but if it's really as easy as some have said I might try doing it myself. Are the aftermarket axles any good cause they are much cheaper? I know that's a lot of questions but I'm trying to get a handle on my options. Thanks.

 

Yes, way to much

 

Yeah. Much too much. Specially since the install is damn near plug and play.

Do it yourself for free.

 

heck yeah way to much. Get you a $20 35mm socket, an axle from auto parts store with lifetime warranty, and a crowbar to pop the old one out and save about 550 bucks.

 

Way too much for that job. Replacing CV axle shafts is pretty easy and straight forward, just need hand tools and the socket for the axle nut. If you've replaced the brake pads and rotors on your truck before then you're capable of replacing the CV axle shaft. JMO.

A trick I started doing a long time ago when working on my rig in the cold is to have the tools that you'll need sit on the floor (under the heating vent in the truck) with the heat on for a while to warm them up, won't last forever but it sure helps.

 

Have you done this yourself? I want to hear from someone whose done it and it really was that easy.

 

The amount of money saved in DIY car repairs is as much as a shitty 2nd job.

 

Same question to you. Have you done this and it's as easy as unbolting some stuff and putting it back together? I've got the tools but I don't have anyone to help.

 

I've rebuilt engines on dirt bikes and have always done brake related work on cars.

 

Lol perfect way to put it

 

Where are you in Illinois? You could probably find someone on here nearby to help out. Tons of people have done it here including myself. I just removed and replaced to put in a new front diff bearing. I think there's even a DIY on how to take it off in YouTube, search for fj cruiser axle replacement. But it's a pretty easy and straightforward job.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...axle-replace-front-wheel-bearing-2nd-gen.html

 

Btw, Why are you replacing the axle? If its just a broken boot you can get an own kit from Toyota for a lot less than the axle. Also search the front diff vibration thread for how to pull the cv from the diff with steel cable. Much easier than a pry bar.

 

yeah just a couple weeks ago. replaced left front wheel bearing, drivers diff bearing and added .25" spacer for drivers side lean all at once. Popping out the cv is the worst part and I used a crowbar to do mine and it worked ok. You can definetly do it yourself with hand tools. If you were closer I'd help ya.

 

I *have* done it. Four axles total (both sides, two times.)

Personally, I found it to be a pain in the ass. Everything's more or less straightforward except for the actual popping in and out of the axle itself. Popping those CV axles out and in - there's a knack to it. It's just the right mix of subtle feel and brute force. So it went a lot faster the second time than the first.

Don't take your time estimate for your first time from someone who's done a bunch of them.

From what I hear - it was easier on the 1st gen's than it is on the 2nd gens.

You only need to do one side? Cool - only half as much work then.

Allow the full saturday with an option on sunday if things go pear shaped. Then if it goes easily - you've got time free on your hands. But you won't end up stranded without a truck.

Here's my blood-sweat-and-tears story.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/186567-need-help-removing-driver-side-cv-axle.html

 

Your story does not fill me with confidence. I'm sure I can get it apart but it's the putting it back together without screwing it up that's got me worried.

 

I did it. Took longer than it really needed to but it wasn't hard.

Someone had torqued the shit out of my 35 mm nut and we broke a few tools trying to get it off. And getting the CV to pop out and then back in took a little time. There is a trick to it for sure.

But no, not hard.

 

Add up how much you're actually gonna save on the DIY job.

Here are costs you haven't added in yet:
You forgot the $50 shipping on that CV axle. They're heavy and the toyota dealer just uses UPS.
$20 for that 35mm impact socket.
$20 for the allen sockets you'll need to drain your diff oil
$25 in diff gear oil (unless you replace with the really cheap stuff)
$50 for those sears prybars.

Plus the parts cost above, I think we just spent you up to $500.

That assumes you've got the usual selection of tools: 1/2" sockets, torque wrench, floor jack, jackstands, impact wrench, etc...

NOW is it still worth your while?

Conversely, the more you do these jobs - the easier it is and the faster and more efficiently you work - and the deeper your toolbench is so that you're less likely to need to have to buy a tool to complete a job.

I wanted to develop the expertise. It was worth it to me to do the job so that I knew I can replace a CV if I ever bust one out on an obstacle somewhere.

 

An after market axle should be between 60 and 100 dollars. I installed them on my 4runner and they are fine unless you are super hard on the truck. Non dealer Install should be between 100 and 200 dollars.

 

this is how I did it and saved a TON of time versus the link provided earlier in post #12

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/269828-ecgs-bushing-cv-boot-replacement-how.html

there is more info in there than you need so i'll run it down for ya real quick.

put truck in 4x4, apply e-brake
loosen wheel lugs
jack truck up, and support from frame
remove wheel
remove dust-cap thing (gently)
pull cotter, remove BIG axle nut
beat the end of the axle shaft until you see it pop in the hub a ways. use soft hammer

remove 2 bolts holding lca to the spindle. they are on the bottom. lower ball joint bracket I think is scientific name

now you can swing the hub and uca up while you beat the axle the rest of the way through. set the axle on lca and rest the spindle/hub/rotor/uca in a way that it wont stretch the brake line or abs wires. easy to figure out

pop the axle with a crow-bar or the like and have a pan under the front diff to catch a little oil that should come out.

install in reverse. I popped the axle back in with a chisel on the indents of the axle stub, so as not to stress boots or cv joints.

its easy-peasy I promise. just be careful prying out the axle. the silver part that you see is part of the axle, not the diff. you will be able to confirm with a little wiggle