Illuminated Ignition Ring Mod

See page 11 for my post on a cheaper source for ignition rings from TLS auto recycling($50).

No longer a work in progress; this mod works! By no means is it a “cheap” mod especially just for an illuminated ignition ring, but it is something I began tinkering with a long while back mainly out of curiosity and a “because I can attitude” and finally figured it out, thanks in part to other members as well, and thus this mod has come to fruition.

And with any modification, I do not take any responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle in doing this modification. It is your responsibility to make sure the dome light wire in your model year is indeed the solid blue wire, and also your responsibility to make sure you are tapping into proper wires/circuits for (+) and (-) sources as outlined and to fuse your stuff properly.

NOTE: User @Up2NoGood has graciously put together his own rendition of a walkthrough for this mod which I attached below. He has a lot of good pictures and instructions included. Document should be downloadable at the bottom of this first post.

Materials

Two choices in illuminated ignition rings, termed “Amplifier, Transponder” per Toyota

1.) Toyota Tundra part# 89783-06021 as per TacomaWorld user Up2NoGood’s post. This ring has a WHITE led and is better suited for anyone who wants to match the 2012+ Tacoma dash. “Lock-Acc-On-Start” text lines up perfectly.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...g-mod-in-progress.362500/page-6#post-11560064


2.) 5th gen Toyota 4Runner part# 89783-35042 has an AMBER led so it matches PRE-2012 Amber color schemes. Also note the “Lock-Acc-On-Start” text does not line up properly on this part#. You can see this in some of my pictures.


NEXT you will need connectors for the OEM “Amplifier” harness. I sourced these from Mouser Electronics and was happily satisfied with their service, and was able to buy the pins in bulk to practice crimping. Part # for Mouser is 571-1123343-1.

You will notice that these pins have a little piece on their top side that sticks up like a fin. This piece needs to be twisted/broken off with pliers. Very easy to do and thus allows the crimped pin to fit properly in the OEM plug slot. You can see the crimp tool I used in this shot as well.

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And of course to do this you need the crimping tool. This is the one I bought from Amazon…just a generic molex type connector crimper, and works with 18 AWG wire that I used. It worked out for me even though it’s not the $200+ official tool to crimp these TE brand connectors.

HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet Crimping Tool with interchangeable die set HT-225D

http://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle...d=1453498221&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+crimp+tool

Alternatively you can get some OEM, pre-crimped pins as outlined in Up2NoGood post #98.​

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...g-mod-in-progress.362500/page-5#post-11454339​

These will cost a good chunk of change considering they are just a pin crimped to a couple feet of wire, but if you don’t have a crimping tool or don’t know how to crimp, then this is another option.​

Final materials I used was some nice 18 AWG GXL wire I bought, as well as miscellaneous connectors for grounds and such. I used Lockitt Posi-taps to tap into wires when needed. I’ve used these before and really like them, they have always been reliable for me. Also used some female terminal connectors for 18 AWG wire like the pic below.



You will also need 1 (or 2 if you go with Option 2 below) Add-a-fuse to tie into power. These need to be either the MINI ATM fuse type or the ATO low profile fuse type. My truck being a 2013 uses the low profile style but I’ve been told you can use a MINI ATM style for both, you just can’t use the ATO low profile type if you have the MINI ATM fuses. You will also want a low amp fuse for these which in my experience would optimally be like a 1A fuse (really even that is a lot for 1 LED), but the lowest I’ve found is a 3A.

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PART I:

This is the “generic” part of the mod. After this there are 2 ways to proceed for PART II depending on when you want the ignition ring to illuminate.

1. Begin by crimping your 2 pins to 2 separate lengths of wire. One will be a positive source and the other a ground.​

Finished product:

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2. Now gain access to the existing ignition ring. To do this follow the directions in this link (POST #218): http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/4838-cheap-free-mods-11.html#post82545​

3. Next, remove the existing ignition ring. It simply unclips from the ignition assembly and slides off. Once you do this just unplug it from the OEM harness. Picture below is of the 4Runner ring already installed, but this is essentially what you’d be looking at.​

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And once removed and unplugged:

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Comparison of the clear 4Runner ring to old Tacoma part:

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4. Now it is time to add your new pins+wire from step 1 to the existing plug. You will stick the (+) wire in slot 2 and the (-) wire in slot 6. To add the pins, simply use a flathead screwdriver to lift the little black flap on the plug, then add your pins to respective slots. I had to use a jewelry screwdriver to slide them all the way in. Once done, snap the security plug flap back in place.​

Diagram for plug

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Pins/wire added to slots 2 and 6

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And flap replaced

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PART II:

There are now 2 ways to proceed. Option 1 is simplest, and makes it so the ring only illuminates when the doors are open/dome light is on, and will turn off when doors are locked, or dome light shuts off. Option 2 requires a SPDT relay and a little more wiring so that you have the same function of Option 1, with the added benefit of the ring turning on when the dash lights on also.

Option 1

1. Using an add-a-fuse, tie your ring (+) wire into the interior fuse box 20A DR LCK circuit. This circuit is hot even when the truck is off.​

2. With your (-) wire tap into the solid BLUE dome light ground wire in the driver side A-pillar wire loom.​

a. To remove the driver-side A-pillar, remove the 2 plastic covers on the grab handle, unbolt the 2 bolts, remove the handle, and then carefully pop the A-pillar cover out of place. Very easy, I’ve done this like 5 times thus far.​

3. Now plug your ignition ring in and make sure the LED functions, and that you can start your truck. If everything works go ahead and button everything up and you are done.​

Option 2

1. Using an add-a-fuse, tie your ring (+) wire into the interior fuse box 20A dome light circuit. This circuit is hot even when the truck is off.​

2. Now follow this diagram below to wire up the SPDT relay.​

a. Connect your ignition ring ground to Pin 30
b. Pin 86 is a (+) wire that you connect to a NON-hot source. This can be the “Accessory circuit” in the interior fuse box for example.​

c. Pin 85 is a (-) wire that you connect to any chassis ground source. I connected mine to a bolt under the shifter area.​

d. Pin 87 is a (-) wire that you connect to a dash illumination wire ground. The place you tap in to is your choice. Some areas I have seen people tie into are the shift indicator lamp (-), or the HVAC illumination (-), or even the dash VSC switch illumination (-)​

e. Pin 87a is a (-) wire that you connect to the solid BLUE dome light ground wire that can be found in the driver-side A-pillar​

i. To remove the driver-side A-pillar, remove the 2 plastic covers on the grab handle, unbolt the 2 bolts, remove the handle, and then carefully pop the A-pillar cover out of place. Very easy, I’ve done this like 5 times thus far.​

Diagram for reference

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3. Now plug your ignition ring in and make sure the LED functions, and that you can start your truck. If everything works go ahead and button everything up and you are done.​

Testing function

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Night-time



If you didn't see this typed above, here it is again: with any modification, I do not take any responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle in doing this modification. It is your responsibility to make sure the dome light wire in your model year is indeed the solid blue wire, and also your responsibility to make sure you are tapping into proper wires/circuits for (+) and (-) sources as outlined.

 

nice idea.

but since its not prewired, i would just send 2 wires from the dome light to that led...so it turns on when the dome light turns one when the door is open.
even if the top switch for the dome light is off it will still have power if you get the power from the wiring by the in cab fuse box

 

is there a pin out on the back of the LED ring? you're onto something here.
im not sure how it hooks up, or the wiring connector since you didnt photograph the plug... whats to say we cant figure out what leads power the ring, then tap into the dome light (ECU dome variable ground wire that's in the A pillar where a lot of us have tied our bed lights to).

i would spend $100 or so to do this for the part you found, if we could get working, so much more civilized.

(posted the same time as Jerez ^)

 

Sub'd can't believe if Toyota does it one vehicle they can't do it in all of them. Fucking dopes.

 

Nice to be civilized

 

Great minds think alike

But I also tapped into the dome light for my bed lights lol

 

A-Pillar:


tap blue wire, then use an always on source for + like door locks... just as you would for bed lights.

 

this could be the next big TW mod after PRO'ing your base...

 

Do you a link to the part? I try using the part number and get nothing

 

It's missing the dash. Try this: 89783-35042

 

As far as I can tell I have no idea what pins do what on the back of the amplifier. There are 7-8 pins on the part where the harness plugs in. The pins on the 4Runner part are EXACTLY the same as what is on the Tacoma part, so I have no clue how this LED is wired up on the inside on the circuit board. Its not a plug and play LED that I can see, but soldered to the circuitry just like the gauge cluster from what I can tell.

Could it be something as simple as the polarity being reversed in the Tacoma? I got to be honest I'm probably on a 3rd grade level with wiring so I have no clue lol.

I'll take the steering column back apart tomorrow and get some more pictures and I can take apart the amplifier to get a shot of the circuit board, or at least part of it. For now I will take a shot of the Tacoma part so you can get an idea of what the pin setup is. I'll get that uploaded in the next 10 min or so.


FOR the part number I directly searched it on Camelback and was able to pull it up no issues, maybe this direct link will work? I bought the one under 2013 SR5 4Runner but a part number is a part number.
http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/pa...make=Toyota&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214329

 

this is really crude and could break something but since were already guessing.... you could try low amperage voltage (like from a 9v battery) to the terminals in combinations to see when the ring lights up. that will tell you which one is powering the ring...

but like you said if its taking power from someplace then sending it to the ring by a circuit board, not simply from the pins then it may be a little more tricky. esp if all the pins are populated already...

 

THIS IS AN OLD POST - SEE UPDATED 1st POST FOR COMPLETE DIY





Okay so here are the pics of the 4th gen amplifier which I am about 99% sure is the same setup of the 5th gen, its just a fatter ring and such. Led looks to be run the same.

Pin Shot:


LED soldered onto circuit board:


Circuit Board:


And as an added bonus a shot of the entire 03-09 4Runner immobilizer just in case you earlier 2nd gen guys have a mobilizer that looks like this and not the newer low profile 5th gen one.

 

I could actually try that out on the 4th gen 4Runner one I have as a test dummy!

 

Subbed for when you guys figure this out. Also, will someone please figure out a lit 4x4 switch for the '13? I'll just patiently wait over here.

 

Hopefully i'll figure this out relatively soon lol.

The only method out their to light a 12+ 4x4 switch is using a 4th gen V6 4Runner 4x4 switch. All you have to do is buy an extra set of pins and wire them into the Tacoma 4x4 switch harness. I'll link that thread in one sec. I scored a 4x4 switch off eBay so that will be my next mod in wiring it in.

edit for thread with 4Runner switch install: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/312343-2012-illuminated-4x4-switch-woes.html

FYI the switch costs ~$76 from a dealer, but I got one on eBay for less than half, you just have to be on watch.

 

Oh wow! I really appreciate that link when you find it!

 

I feel like the ILL+ and ILL- printed on that board stand for illumination positive(+) and ground(-).

 

Thank you JdevTac!

 

They very well could be. I've looked at some universal Toyota transponder amplifier harness diagrams and none of them mention pins 2 and 6 so they very well could be for the LED, which means all I would need to do is wire up those pins to the dome wires and bam, illumination! The diagrams I have seen only make mention of pins 1, 4, 5 and 7. Nothing on 2 and 6 but maybe I'm just not finding the right stuff.

But I really hope that's the case. I will pick up a pack of 9V batteries tomorrow to test that theory out.