Synthetic Oil?

Don't fret over 0w-20w and 5w-20w, really really doesn't make a spit of difference, OMG, you could even run 5w-30w and there would be no consequences, obviously, if you live in a harsh winter environment, the lower weight oil would be prudent to run during the cold months....I switched to full syn at 141,000, have 287,000 give or take now, 7,500 change interval, 5w-20w, Toyota filters only, doesn't burn any oil. There is way too much put into these slight variances of weight ratings, way too much.....there are those that will go anal on this post, but, in reality, your truck will not know the difference as long as you stick to a regular change interval with new filter...onward....

 

A lot of people say that synthetic oil prolongs engine life.

I've put over 300K on several cars and over 400K on one using conventional oil.

Some newer Toyota's call for 0W-20. I own one and abide by that, but on all of my other vehicles it's plain-Jane conventional oil for me.

Bottom line - use what you feel comfortable with. Just be sure you do-it and use a good filter and above all else - change it yourself. That will really make it last longer.

 

Yep, the only things synthetic does best is protect during extreme cold starts, extreme heat and holds up better to longer OCI's.

 

if you do go synthetic on the v6 use 0w-30 REGARDLESS OF YOUR CLIMATE!

Even HOT climates where ambients are 110+, 0w-X oil is still too thick to properly lubricate before operating temps, BUT its MUCH thinner than 5w-X / 10w-X on cold starts which will help with wear.

 

What you are saying regarding viscosity doesn't make sense...

The viscosity grade (for example, 5W-30) tells you the oil's thickness, or viscosity. A thin oil has a lower number and flows more easily, while thick oils have a higher number and are more resistant to flow.

General rule of thumb, if your engine has high miles, then you would go to the thicker oil (0w-30w or higher). The dual viscosity just means it will flow better at cold temperatures (the 0w) and have thicker characteristics at operating temps (the 20w/30w or whatever), 30w being thicker than 20w.

 

I think that's what nd4spdbh just said. When the engine is cold like at start up the 0 viscosity is still too thick to properly lubricate until the oil reaches operating temps. So not to go any higher in the lower viscosity number then 0.

 

OP, there are a lot of threads on here about oil. At the end of the day the flavor of oil you use is up to you. The 4 cyl does require synthetic but the 4.0L V6 does not. I run 5/30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil and change every 5K kilometers or for you folks South of the border, 3K miles. Why? Because I don't do a lot of highway driving and I do mostly short trips. By short I mean less then 30 kilometers/18 miles one way.

I have a V6 which calls for 5/30 dyno oil but I believe the 'hype' so I use Synthetic oil.

Use the oil the manual recommends and for warranty purposes don't go beyond the recommended OCI. (oil change interval)

As far as flavor, Mobil 1 and Penzoil Platinum seem to be popular.

 

OP, read the info in the link...

 

No, you got it wrong again...0w means the oil is thin at lower temps (winter) and will flow better when cold, it is not thick, the second number, IE: 20w/30w is the thickness of the oil as it reaches operating temperature. I am out of here, it is a madhouse...

 

lol. That's what I said brother, nd4spd is simply saying that even 0 viscosity is still TOO thick to properly lubricate the engine at start up....how to explain...if they made -20Wxx, nd4spd would use it instead of 0Wxx for better protection at start up.

You smoking what I'm rollin?

 

If you are going to change the oil at 5000 miles just use a regular oil and a good filter. I run 10000 miles on Mobil 1 full synthetics before changing and have been doing that for many years. All three of my trucks get that same interval. If you research OCI you will find increased wear metals with shorter intervals. It is not known why, it could be that the new oil pulls contaminants into suspension, or it could be that the new oil increases wear. Nevertheless, I researched oils for about 5 years before settling on my program.

 

Thanks for the heads up sgtnewundies. Noted.

 

this.

0w-XX is still thicker at ambient temps of 110* compared to 30W at operating temps (220ish) So there is simply no point to run a 5w-30 syn when you can get a 0w-30 which will offer better startup protection and get to operating thickness quicker.

 

Crisco shortening is better than petroleum or synthetic based lubricant, plus it all comes back except for 1 table spoon...

 

...We're still talking about oil changes right.......

 

Or baking, your choice haha....

 

On most car forums, there's always numerous threads on oil, and always have differing opinions.

Just run what the manufacturer recommends. I used to use 20w50 in my old BMW, friends were like, WTF??? That's what the manual called for.

 

Note: Conventional does not come in a 0w-20

 

This was a good read, and the reason i switched to 0w-30

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

 

If you are comparing 0w20 to 5w20 the oils a basically the same at operating temp, but the 0w20 will thicken less as it cools so it's thinner at start up where most engine wear occurs. Oil flow is important during start up especially in cold temps.