NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Anyone here locally running a volant intake box on their truck? I've got my core support ram air scoop left over after the snorkel install. Might work with other intake systems. $75

 

I want to do what I'm seeing in all of your guy's pics, to be extremely vague... I guess more overland than crawler, but some crawling capabilities would be nice, just in case. And, I have absolutely no PNW wheeling experience, BTW.

I've got my criteria at this general area: 1st./2nd. Gen. RC SR5 (or) AC OR w/locker.

 

Good to know, I wanted to go with the all pro "pro" suspension kit but I wasn't sure about there uca, was thinking I buy it separately but I've been hearing good things so I'll probably just go that route, add a diff drop and front ext brake lines and be set.

 

Rear brake lines, not front, and delete the diff drop more problems than they are worth, plus u likely need to shim ur IFS skid to make fit. If 3" or more lift may want a carrier bearing drop tho.... Jury's out on that one....

 

You will notice many DC 1st/2nd gen that do both.
There is something nice about having not all your belongings in the bed of the truck you are wheeling... unless you are single and plan to stay that way... ("I got 5 kids to feed" - name it - @Chickenmunga )

 

Well the kit comes with rears, I was gonna add the front just because at full articulation with a 2.5 lift they can get a bit stretched, from what I've heard. As far the diff drops I had a lift on my old 4runner and that thing rang through cv every 6 moths it seemed with the same lift, and after I added the drop it fixed the problem right up. But I sold it shortly after so I couldnt tell you the long term. But I'm open to segestions if you know any down sides.

 

Huh? My kids names are Toyota and Yamaha. I stopped feeding ASUS.

 

I added front and sent them back to be shortened because they were rubbing on the top part of the bump stop mount - too squished. You only need length for LT, maybe if you are doing full MT (I will find out soon). ABS wire is the shorty one that I wish I could lengthen, but no way I'm splicing that up.
Diff drop is bad juju from what you can read around here. One guy actually got his diff destroyed by it.
Was your 4R destroying the joints or just boots? I was destroying boots, now I'm on CVJ boots and we shall see how long they last.

 

There's a couple threads about it. I'm non committal on the subject. Took mine out so I didn't have to shim my skids. Honestly with a long bed I don't think it makes much diff. Ha!

 

Well it was destroying the boots like yours, but by extension I assume it wasn't great for the shafts either, I will look into more on this diff drop, rather not add something that does more harm then good. Also i took a look at those CVJ boots and those seem pretty nice from what I read. Something to think about for sure....

 

Don't need extended front lines for any mid travel coil over, only if you want a stainless steel braided versus the stock.

As for CVJ boots I love them. Been running mine for almost 2 years with the orange extended boots and haven't ripped any. Liked them so much I got them to build my LT axles with the same boots.

 

Never had to replace due to shafts. You'll hear the CVs grinding when they want replacement.

 

I would not feel confident making my own... I am with with basic maintenance and that's about it lol

 

Since Mike has passed, that's from Total Recall.

With regard to 1.25" vs 1" uniballs: Remember that bigger is not always better, my friends. Try to find a 100% stainless 1.25" uniball setup. First one to find them I'll buy a beer. (Don't waste too much time on it.)

Now, 1" uniballs? Yep, you'll find those in stainless. There's a reason why TC has been leading the charge in IFS suspension/LT components for so long. It's not their higher price tag either =)

 

From my personal experience, get the V6. I have a 4 cylinder 5 speed ACLB. When stock, my wife maxed it out at 22 MPG. Stock v6 is still rated to get something like 19 MPG.
If you plan to dump a bunch of extra money in later to lift, get bigger wheels, and regear, don't bother with the E-locker now. If you don't think you will regear ever, then consider the e locker. Just know it's only the rear axle that the locker engages on, not the front. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but as I recall, the e locker also only works in 4low unless you do some modding.

I've taken my truck out plenty of times and made it through things that I wasn't sure I'd get through, and without a locker. These trucks are impressively capable from the factory floor.

As far as configuration, look to what the primary purpose of the truck will be. If you want to turn it into a trail monster, probably standard cab long bed. My in laws occasionally use the bed of their truck, but more often have others riding with them, so they got a DCSB. I knew I was going to utilize my bed a lot but needed more cab space than standard cab, so I got ACLB. @penguins_cc <----Will has a trail limo, which is DCLB, so he has the longest wheelbase, with full backseats and long bed.

 

http://www.ishock.com/i-18581666-st...ma-uca-misalignment-set-for-1-25-uniball.html

 

Total Recall (original Arnie version)

 

Oops, didn't see your post!

 

Swearing...

 

Got my dakars in the mail! Now I need a mod day at someone's garage. I hate living in apartments.