Which HID kit closely matches DRLs?

I agree.

Also people need to understand angles of the projectors give off different colors. The pure white color you may see, it may actually be more of a blue tint when looking head on.

I would honestly stick with 4500-5000k. In my experience with HID kits I have had the following

2008 Silverado - 6000k 55w - Stupid bright with a slight blue tint on the ring. Would never go back to this color or wattage ever
2008 Evo X - Standard HID bulbs with the car - color temp rated at 4500k 35w
2009 HHR SS - 5500k 35w - Good wattage, bright but still a slight blue tint when looking at the vehicle driving by
2010 Mazdaspeed 3 - 5000k 35w - Good kit but not perfect. Pure white when looking at the vehicle driving by but still stood out as aftermarket HIDs
2016 Taco TRD Sport - 4500k 35w - This is my sweet spot. White look while driving looking at the road but while looking at the vehicle drive by, looks like standard luxury HIDs

Ninja edit: Some people want others to know they have HIDs, I myself want the HIDs to look like they came standard with the vehicle. Some people like the pure white/blue tint, I myself as I get older want what looks best on the vehicle but also isnt going to get me pulled over or draw attention to myself.

When I see someone with 5500k+ I know they have aftermarket HIDs, when I see someone with 4300-4500k, its hard to tell if they are standard or aftermarket. I like leaving people who do not know the vehicle like most of us on the forum do, thinking "Was that an option on the vehicle I didnt get from the factory?"

 

I agree with you on all that.

A main problem these days is lack of quality on HID kits. I'ver ordered 5000k kits before that came to me at 8000k. Ever since switching to Morimoto I have 0 issues with bulb kelvin matching what I ordered.

 

Sorry for the crappy rain pic here. I went with the 6k HID kit for my lows and the LED fog kit from Diode Dynamics. It's hard to see but they actually match up well with the driving lights. When just running the driving lights with the LED fogs, it's nearly perfect.

I've had the HID kit on cars in the past and I love them. I like how the fogs spread the light from ditch to ditch, I was afraid that I'd lose some of that when going to LED but it looks amazing. There is no douchey purple or blue hue and overall light distribution is awesome and very white.

 

I've had great luck in the past with Hyluxtek ballasts so I'm going that direction again this time around. cnlight bulbs seem to be a chinese top tier manufacturer so I went with Hyluxtek A2088 (non canbus) ballasts, and 4300k cnlight "ball" bulbs. Going to be a bit to receive from China, but at 81 dollars shipped, I can wait. I'll reply with pictures and experience.

I'm going with 4300k for the same reasons DRJ listed above..I am a fan of stock color temps for an OEM appearance. I've had 8k, 6k, 5500k in the past and I'm just not a fan of the obvious aftermarket look anymore.

 

Fair enough. The reason I like the 6k temp is because I can see a lot better with that color and with the dark wet roads in Oregon, it helps A LOT.

 

Forgot to post this up the other day

HID lows - 4500k 35w DDM http://ddmtuning.com/Products/UltraCanbusHID
LED 5000k fogs -

OPT7 CREE H11 LED DRL 5000K Bright White Fog Light Bulbs - Pack of 2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SZK26T0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Taken with iPhone 7 Plus. You can see the 5000k fogs have a much more different white color than the LEDs and HIDs

 

Do I really need a relay harness for HID's?

 

Opt7 LED Fluxbeams. H11 fit both low beams and fogs and are plug and play.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNBDWPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Nope. Just plug and play

 

Sweet, just don't want my wires to get damaged over time

 

Not so fast there. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, provided adequate amperage head room on the fuse for the left and right side harnesses (10 amp each), but then threw in a 15 amp fuse for the combined circuit. My ballasts were blowing the 15 amp fuse and the specifications for the ballasts specifically stated they needed a 20 amp. I installed a 20 amp fuse which resolved the problem of blowing the 15 amp, but left me with a slight uncomfortable feeling for the long term integrity of the wiring (why was a 15 amp selected in place of 20?), and I ended up getting a relay harness as a result. Depending on your ballasts and how much current they draw during the warm up cycle, you may need a relay harness or, at a minimum, a 20 amp fuse replacement.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hyluxtek-hid-kit-with-cnlight-ball-bulbs.457461/

 

What is preferred in the low beams, hids or led's? I have heard the led's aren't bright enough with our headlights. During winter months I'm driving in the dark no matter if im coming to or leaving work. These headlights just seem about as good as my chevy novas old sealed round lights and I can't see shit.

 

What did you go with? Any links? I plan on getting the OPT7 35w hid kit.
http://www.opt-7.com/blitz-series-35w-Slim-hid-kit/

 

Went fairly overkill on the harness, but I didn't want to deal with troubleshooting crap harnesses like I have in the past. This one has been working flawlessly.

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/individual-waterproof-hid-relay-harness#!prettyPhoto

 

Why HID over LED? Cost?

 

@JoeCOVA HID still brighter than LEDs in my opinion. Compared it myself on my other vehicle. Also, I love the fact that LED's have a wider spread of light to the sides, but I rather have further throw of light.

 

Soooooo harness will do. Correct?

 

I hear and read that the OPT-7 LEDs are brighter than the stock headlights and they have better wide throw. HID's from what retrofit source says, HID's will always be brighter than LED's. They also have further throw than led lights.

 

+1.

Relay harness.

 

HID is just a more tried & true piece of equipment. Buy a quality set of ballastsome, bulbs, & relay and enjoy...

LED just isn't there yet. I'm sure it will be someday but affordable aftermarket LED is not consistent yet.