Any woodworkers?

Sure, it's a little bulky, needs 480 3P and compressed air but..........................
11' crosscut/rip to 5''thick
20' stock length
air flotation tables
20 hp, 20" main blade, 8" scoring/infinite speed control
laser cut line
PC front
built in cut list optimizer/full process graphics/networked
part label printer
12" dust collection port
hot and cold running beer
no seat

 

this true and I do have a pair of miter saws in the shop I try to stay away from major trim work because I can't cope with a damn

 

I got 2 of each.

 

Yay

 

...per the tablesaw, miter saw, circular saw discussion, ...what about a track saw to get started?... several manufacturers make portable track saws now (festool, grizzly, dewalt, triton, and makita), ...and w/ the ability to join tracks to make longer lengths, they are very versatile, ..and have the advantage of portability and small shop footprint (storage)...

...sure a cabinet saw (and similarly miter saw) might be the preference for high throughput/repetition type work, ...but if budget and shop space is a limitation, the ability to rip and crosscut solid wood (fairly wide pieces for safety, of course), and particularly sheet goods, w/ the track saw is an attractive option...

 

Admittedly haven't spent much time considering or researching track saws.

I've seen the Festool's used frequently but not seen other brands, and only knew they existed at all for like 6 weeks or so.

They're certainly an interesting tool and would fit my needs, maybe doubly so.

Home Depot sells this one, well reviewed..
http://m.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6-1-2-in-165-mm-Track-Saw-Kit-DWS520K/202220967

Am I losing anything with this compared to a sliding miter? I'd assume the main difference is the ability to cut crown molding? That really isn't a problem for me as I have no plans to do so.

 

Track saw is more of a tablesaw replacement vs chopsaw replacement

 

My ripping needs are pretty minimal, as mentioned. The benefits of a track saw (on this short notice) seem to be precision cross cuts across longer spans and the ability to rip (with extra tracks which aren't particularly expensive), and a smaller footprint when not in use.

What are the negatives? Material thickness being a limiting factor for sure, what others?

Longer setup time isn't really a negative if the cut is accurate.

 

...i have a 12" dewalt compound double bevel miter saw, ...i don't like it and don't use it... most of the smaller things i crosscut w/ a backsaw and a benchhook on my workbench... but, ...then again, ...it comes down to intended usage, ...the kinds of work you'll be doing... for doing lots of trimwork (crown moldings, casings, etc.), i could see how the compound miter saw might be preferred...

 

w/.. the track saw option, you will have less cutting depth than w/, say, a 12" compound miter saw, ...however, i rarely need the cutting depth of the latter, except for say, cutting crown molding... the track saw will facilitate ripping and crosscutting stock 1/4"-2" thick (i think festool TS 75 may go a bit deeper), but mainly if the pieces are, say, 5" or more in width (for safely stabilizing the track on the work), ...the larger the width/length, ..the track saw excels... it is particularly useful for breaking down large sheet goods (plywood, etc), that may be unweildy if not dangerous to do on a table saw...

 

No plans to cut crown molding, and for small pieces I do have a standard miter saw (non sliding). I don't recall offhand if it cut a 4x4 without flipping it but I don't believe it did - but that is okay.

I am intrigued by the track saw and really considering if that might (in conjunction with my fixed miter saw) be an efficient solution.

I assume the track saw can be beveled to at least 45 degrees?

 

Totally agree with wiley , depends on end usage

Breaking down lots of sheet goods etc ~ track saw

Ripping smaller pieces or running dado head ~ tablesaw

and finer crosscut work like casings / trimwork ~ mitre saw

I do lots of stain grade trims and use a Makita LS1013 sliding mitre saw and have had it for probably 14 years , still works great

For my fitting / fine tune cuts I don't even swing the table or rotate the head , I insert Ramboard or playing cards between the wood and fence and / or between the wood and table

 

...yes, i believe all of the tracksaw options can tilt between 45-90 degs... the track saw really excels as the size of the work increases, ...the limitations are only that of the track length (or, of course as you progress through your layout, snapping a line and just moving the track for a linear succession of cuts)... i have the TS 55, and i'm very happing w/ the versatility... the saw fits into a small systainer (container) w/ a handle, easily stowed, ..blade change is super easy/quick, ..built-in dust collection port, ..and you can essentially get glue-ready cuts that don't require jointing...

 

I am an amateur/home-owner type, but I've done tons of work using my 7 1/4" Milwaukee circular saw with home-made fence/guide, and more recently, with this

Bora WTX Clamp Edge and Straight Cut Guide for Circular Saws | 50" Cutting Length, 543050

Bora guide. Works quite well, but does take a bit of fiddling around to setup for each cut. An upside is that this setup is entirely portable, so often I work quite-literally on the side of the road (live in a condo, so no garage). I'd imagine this works as well as a track saw does.

I also have a 10", sliding, dual-bevel mitre saw that I bought some years ago and have used once or twice, but otherwise it sits in the closet.

Recently picked up a DeWalt 7480 table saw, used it yesterday for the first time and really liked it. Precise cuts, with very quick and easy adjustments. Insanely loud, though.

 

I have both a traditional track saw and festools new framing track saw with the returning track. They are great tools and I don't use my table for cross cutting sheet goods at all anymore. They are great tools and once you get used to them and setups you will be surpriesd just how much you can do with them. Granted I own a cabinet shop and do all the design work.

 

Question for those more experienced.

Seems to be a preference for a sliding 10" miter over a 12".

Why for?

 

In my case I don't need the extra capacity of a 12" saw for trim work and exterior finishes

I have a 12" non sliding chopsaw for framing

 

hey I have a roller if you need one and you can make your own stand

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/home-improvement-today.12120/page-461#post-14027256

 

Stained some 2x4s and hung them on the wall... does that count?