The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

crashnburn80 · Dec 19, 2016

GotRice? said: ↑

Does anyone know if this upgrade affects the DRL on a 2016 3rd gen? I'm really interested in doing this. Could you refer me to the proper wiring harness for low beam only on a 3rd gen?
Click to expand...

3rd gen headlight halogen upgrade is the same as the 2nd gen foglight upgrade. Both use H11, the proper wiring harness is listed here, (see the 2nd paragraph note for 3rd gen):
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-foglight-upgrade-not-led-or-hid.435419/

Which DTL are you referring to? DTL using amber indicators will be unaffected. DTL using high beam on reduced voltage (headlight DTL) should also be unaffected on 3rd gen, as the high beam circuit is completely separate. On 2nd gen the DTL reduced voltage high beam is disabled as the relay disables the partial voltage setting of the high beam on the dual filament bulb.

Mush Mouse · Dec 24, 2016

Muffdiver said: ↑

I also bought from Susquehanna using a card i rarely use. About 15 days later i found a $2700 dollar charge to the card for. Reported and credited by the card issuer, but they may have a breach.
i am going to contact them on monday.
Click to expand...

WTF

2004TacomaNavy · Dec 28, 2016

crashnburn80[OP] initial post: ↑

My build goal is to drastically increase the light output from the stock headlights without sacrificing quality, durability or the OEM lighting optics and improve the look of the truck at the same time.

Rather than trying to change the technology that is used by the halogen reflector headlights (like improperly stuffing HID or LED bulbs in a reflector lens designed specifically for halogen bulbs), I just improved on the same technology by cranking up the power, adding some new school tricks to old school tech, and improved the efficiency while selecting better looking OEM parts.

First off the results. New setup on the left, stock on the right (more output pics later in post):

Now that I have your attention...

This upgrade results in over a 2x improvement from stock. It consists of the following:
NOTE: 3rd Gen trucks using H11 headlights should see this thread.

1) Osram Hyper 85/80w 2400 lumen H4s - Made in Germany:
http://www.rallylights.com/h4-12v-osram-hyper-bulb-not-legal-for-highway-use.html
These bulbs produce 2400 lumens, which is significantly more than the 1200-1400 stock, and also more than many HID kits that produce ~2200 lumens. This is done by a combination of overdriving the filament and running much higher wattage than stock. Because the optics are correct for a halogen, a greater percentage of the light will also be placed on the road compared to an HID conversion. These bulbs do not have a cosmetic bulb coating to look cool, which also reduces lumen output, meaning they are a true purebred performance bulb. They will still burn whiter than stock and also have decent bulb life for being a high wattage bulb, being rated at 200 hours. The Osrams will drastically outperform the PIAA style “60w=110w” type bulbs. The HID or LED also cannot compete with Halogen in the Color Rendering Index (CRI) rating meaning the halogens will provide a better lighting spectrum and better night vision color quality over HID or LED. These bulbs may damage your OEM harness and be limited in output without the additional standalone harness upgrade. Also note Osram is Toyotas OEM headlight bulb supplier, so they meet Toyota’s strict product quality standards.

German Osram 85w 2400 lumen performance bulbs:

Update: 10/5/16:
1) Osram Hyper 100/90w 2900 lumen H4s - Made in Germany:
Osram has released an updated German made Bilux H4 100/90w bulb rated at 2900 lumens. While the high beam rating has been significantly improved (by over 20%), the low beam rating and life remain nearly unchanged. Low beams always burn out first in a dual filament bulb, so I see no reason not to upgrade. The low beam is still rated at 200 hours, just like the earlier hyper bulbs.

German Osram 100/90w 2900 lumen performance bulbs:

I have not found them available for sale in the USA yet, except for ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OSRAM-H4-BI...00-90W-2PCS-62204SPB-/111692984549?rmvSB=true

Update 9/12/16
For those interested in longer life but lower output, the 70w version of the Osram Hypers have been discontinued. The suggested replacement is Volsa +100s. From Candlepowers website:
"Electrically, they are the same. The Osram 70/65w bulb's actual, measured power input is 73/66w (high/low beam) at 13.2 volts, while the new Vosla +100 bulb measures in at 71/67w. A difference of one or two watts in either direction isn't significant..."
http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html
For comparison the Osram 70/65w are rated at 2000/1350 lumen. The 85/80w are rated at 2400/1750 lumen. I recommend the 85w version for best light output.

2) Rallylights standalone harness - Built in the USA:
http://www.rallylights.com/hl282-up...ness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html
These harnesses are made in the USA by Rally Lights using Hella components. The harness uses heavy gauge wiring and Hella relays with ceramic plugs to bypass the factory wiring and switches, drawing power directly from the battery. The heavy duty wiring with a more direct lead to the battery is more efficient causing your lights to be brighter, and isolates the factory wiring from the increased loads of the high power bulbs. The harness is entirely plug and play, the factory switch will control the relay on the harness, to control the lights as if it were stock. You can find cheaper harnesses built entirely in China elsewhere, like eBay, with no-name parts but you won’t find that sort of product quality on my truck.
Edit: If your truck is ground switched (see testing procedure further down below) the part number for the harness is HL28200S - Upgrade Harness for Two H4 Lamps.

Rallylights conventionally switched heavy duty headlight harness:

3) OEM 2012+ TRD Pro headlights (optional cosmetic upgrade) - Made in the USA:
Right #81110-04221 http://stores.revolutionparts.com/toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/8111004221
Left #81150-04221 http://stores.revolutionparts.com/toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/8115004221
The Pro lights are similar to the BHLM, but factory, in a smoked MGM-like color. This upgrade is only cosmetic over stock and not required for increased light output. Unlike the BHLM, there is no breaking of the seals on the headlights. Being OEM these will be the highest quality one can buy and also will have the correct lighting optics, which isn’t always the case with aftermarket lights. If buying non-OEM look for the CAPA certification to guarantee the correct optics. The links above were the cheapest I found online. I sold my OEM headlights for $180 without trying, meaning the new set only cost me $220.

OEM 2005-2011 smoked headlights:
These are available loaded with bulbs, and unloaded w/o bulbs, saving $60 off the set . These part numbers are for the unloaded housings.
Right #81130-04173 http://stores.revolutionparts.com/toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/8113004173
Left #81170-04173 http://stores.revolutionparts.com/toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/oe-toyota/8117004173

Stock light on left, Pro on right:

Determining your electrical ground system:
Toyota previously has produced their trucks with ground switched wiring. I’ve done this upgrade on my 3 previous Toyota trucks (89, 94, 03) I’ve owned, and all have used the ground switched wiring. I originally ordered the ground switched harness but it did not work on my 2015 Tacoma. After emailing rallylights.com, the actual guy that built my harness sent me the following test info, which led me to conclude I actually had conventionally switched wiring.

Ground Test Procedure:
-Looking at the back of the factory Toyota H4 headlight connector, as installed, the outside two connections are vertical & the top connection is horizontal.
-The left connection, when viewed from the back, is the "common" H4 connection.
-On a Ground Switched vehicle, the left connection would have +12 volts (in relation to ground) as soon as the headlight switch is turned on.
-On a Conventionally Switched vehicle, the left "common" connection would ground directly to the chassis and would never have any measurable voltage present.

I tested the common connection with a multimeter and determined my truck was conventionally switched. You can also use a simple bulb voltage detector for this test.

Testing ground:

If you run the test and have a ground switched truck (unlike my 2015), you need this ground switched harness instead of the one linked above:
http://www.rallylights.com/hl282s-upgrade-headlamp-harness-for-switched-ground-vehicles.html

Install:
If you can replace your headlight bulbs and change a car battery, you can install this harness, it is completely plug and play.

Install instructions:

I routed my wiring under the radiator shroud and used zip ties in the empty holes to secure it in place:

Shroud reinstalled:

Comparing the stock wiring and plastic plug vs HD harness wiring and ceramic plug:

For installing my Pro headlights, I used this thread to read up on removal. I won’t bother to re-invent the wheel:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/headlight-removal-pics.128360/

Be sure to tape off your horizon and alignment lines before removing your lights. I parked 20ft away from a wall and used painters tape to mark the horizon and center points of the OEM beam pattern for each light. After swapping the headlight assemblies I put the truck back in the same spot and adjusted the alignment to match the tape marks. I also did one headlight at a time to use the horizon line from the untouched light to double validate the replaced light.

The hidden bolt seems tricky but after removing the lower flap it only takes a minute once you find it. Not reinstalling this bolt as so many mention is just unacceptable laziness. Take pride in your work people.

Picture looking up under the front bumper with the wrench on the hidden bolt:

In order to get the old lights out, I struggled to get the lower light tab to clear the bumper skin. I ended up disconnecting the bumper, but not removing it, just to get more play so I could get the lights out and the new ones in. I used instructions from here:
http://www.grillcraft.com/installs/install_detail.aspx?install_id=296

Grill removed and bumper detached (but not removed) for headlight install:

New Pro headlights installed:

Compared to a stocker in the parking lot:

Testing output:
Scientifically quantitative results are always better than subjectivity. Using my light Lux meter to measure light output before and after the upgrade.

Stock high beam 290 lux:

Ultimate high beam 609 lux. Over 100% improvement from stock.

Glare:
While the lights are over 100% brighter than stock, they are also correctly engineered so the cut off plane is still maintained and oncoming drivers are not blinded. Uninformed people so often look at their LED/HID upgrade head-on and see the glare and think that is good because it must mean they are brighter, when in-fact, it is because it is done wrong and the cut off is lost. A headlight upgrade done correctly, will be indistinguishable to oncoming drivers while the driver will see massive improvement.

Stock left (passenger), Ultimate 100%+ brighter on the right (driver). The engineered cut off is maintained and looks the same. No offensive glare or scatter, unlike HID/LEDs in reflectors.

Heat:
People have understandably expressed concern over heat output of high powered halogens. I took some IR laser temp readings of stock compared to ultimate, with the ambient temp of 57 degrees.

Stock operating temp, 121 degrees:

Ultimate operating temp, 148 degrees:

Why not HID/LED?
Read this first for an in-depth explanation, and to see how this headlight upgrade compares to higher powered LEDs:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/

For those that did not know you cannot put HIDs in a reflector housing (like the 1st/2nd gen Tacoma) without throwing significant light into the air, known as scatter which is caused by using the wrong bulb in an incompatible reflector. This scatter blinds oncoming drivers and wastes light that could be used to illuminate the road. With less light projected to the road this is actually a downgrade, despite the color making you think otherwise. I’m also not a fan of the dependency on required ballasts, and the HID kits are usually made cheaply in China. If a bulb or ballast fails you cannot pick one up at your local auto parts store.

LEDs have recently become popular, but most that improve light output over stock use microprocessor cooling fans to cool the LED circuit. Not a very durable design for off-road use, or any use. The cooling fan versions also require cutting of the rear headlight boot to fit, meaning the seal is shot and condensation inside the lens could become an issue. The optics may be questionable as LED light is directional vs Halogen being omni-directional, though some respectable manufacturers have claimed to recently solve the issue. The LED bulbs will also have lower CRI than Halogens. Numerous threads on TW have had people go to LEDs only later to return to Halogen due to the lack of reliability, the incorrect optics, and superior spectrum of the Halogens.

Additional Notes:
Update 3/15/16:
Tacoma had a 85w bulb burn out today after 6 months. Swapped both bulbs with a new set.
Escape is going strong with 14 months on the 85w bulbs (also has standalone harness). Bulb bulb burnt out 2 days later. 3/17/16.

Headlight DRLs
NOTE: If you have daytime running lights that use the headlights (not the amber indicators) this mod will disable the headlight DRL function. This is because the headlight DRLs use a reduced wattage high beam, by installing this mod the circuit becomes an on/off switch due to the relay that is able to take the extra current. Since the relay is either on or off, the headlights are either on or off and do not operate at partial wattage like the DRLs. This has no effect if your DRLs utilize the amber indicators like the majority of Tacomas.

Update 6/12/16:
I've now done a similar upgrade in the Ultimate Fog Light Upgrade, which doubles fog light output. Additional output pics after adding the Ultimate fog light upgrade:

And some people claim halogens have no cut off.

Additional reference:
There is also a 1st gen spin off thread, with independent results and more pictures:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/proper-headlight-upgrade.407879/

I am always happy to help anyone on their truck projects. If you have any questions don't hesitate to message me or post in this thread.
Click to expand...

Thank you for putting this together!

Haany4x4 · Dec 29, 2016

crashnburn80[OP] said: ↑

3rd gen headlight halogen upgrade is the same as the 2nd gen foglight upgrade. Both use H11, the proper wiring harness is listed here, (see the 2nd paragraph note for 3rd gen):
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-foglight-upgrade-not-led-or-hid.435419/

Which DTL are you referring to? DTL using amber indicators will be unaffected. DTL using high beam on reduced voltage (headlight DTL) should also be unaffected on 3rd gen, as the high beam circuit is completely separate. On 2nd gen the DTL reduced voltage high beam is disabled as the relay disables the partial voltage setting of the high beam on the dual filament bulb.
Click to expand...

I have a thought on that. The headlights on the third gen with the leds are the DTL and have their own switch control. However i notice that as soon as your low's come on the leds are dimmed so that tells me eigher they are under the same fuse but different switch OR there is a resistor in there once the lows come on for just the led lights. If that is true how can this be avoided trouble free...or will this create no trouble at all?

LeftCoastNerd · Dec 31, 2016

LED headlights probably don't use a 'resistor' for low brightness, instead, they likely use an active pulse-width-modulation current pump circuit.

Haany4x4 · Jan 3, 2017

Right, diodes to reduce dc current good catch. So if this is the case then the low beam wiring harness would typically have a common issue do to this bridge diode...possibly??? Has anyone tried yet im still waiting for parts

Chrome Beer · Jan 3, 2017

Just a heads up i did this upgrade with the harness.Everything worked fine i got flashed now and then but o well.. But a year later when one of the 80W bulbs burnt out i noticed a burn mark on one side of the harness where the light plugs in. I would take picks but replacing the lightbulbs is a bitch. Just so you know if a fire occurs it wouldn't be covered under warranty because you altered it.

Haany4x4 · Jan 3, 2017

Chrome Beer said: ↑

Just a heads up i did this upgrade with the harness.Everything worked fine i got flashed now and then but o well.. But a year later when one of the 80W bulbs burnt out i noticed a burn mark on one side of the harness where the light plugs in. I would take picks but replacing the lightbulbs is a bitch. Just so you know if a fire occurs it wouldn't be covered under warranty because you altered it.
Click to expand...

Oh that sucks...maybe 80 is a little too hot or loose connection on the wires causing arching. But you have a 2nd gen headlight hookup correct. I was asking about the 3rd gen projector led combo headlights

Chrome Beer · Jan 3, 2017

Yes 2nd gen

JohnnyRed · Jan 5, 2017

Does anyone have experience with the Hella H4 100/80w? I can't seem to find much information on it. Would love to know how it compares via hour ratings and lumens.

$8 HELLA H4 100/80W High Wattage Bulb, 12V

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBLKW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Norton · Jan 5, 2017

JohnnyRed said: ↑

Does anyone have experience with the

$8 Hella H4 100/80w High Wattage Bulb, 12V

Hella H4 100/80w? I can't seem to find much information on it. Would love to know how it compares via hour ratings and lumens.

$8 HELLA H4 100/80W High Wattage Bulb, 12V

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBLKW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Click to expand...

I don't have experience with that specific bulb, but Hella's reputation is good. The relays used in both the Ultimate Headlight and in the Ultimate Fog Light setups are, in fact, Hella products. FWIW, I was very happy with Hella headlights in my '92 Toyota Pickup. IIRC, they were plug & play and had a stock appearance, but provided lots more light than stock.

crashnburn80 is the expert, but I'd expect these perform comparably to the Osrams recommended on pg 1. For less than $9/ea, I'll probably give them a shot when I need to replace my Osrams.

Bluebaron7 · Jan 6, 2017

I ordered this upgrade and I really can't wait to install the lights and wire combo. On a side note my credit card was also compromised for many charges after this purchase. I knew it was a possibility with other members having the same issue but it was a gamble I was willing to take. That's why I never use a debit card online or for gas when I can use a credit card for everything which isn't my money but the credit cards so they will definitely fight those frivolous charges. I'll post before and after pics when I install the upgrade. Thanks for sharing this OP.

Mike44 · Jan 6, 2017

After seeing all these fraud issues with this guys wiring harness orders I think I'll hold off. I've added the ceramic harness to my stock wires via a quick plug and play and im currently running the Hella 135/90 watt bulbs. No visible signs of heat warping or distortion even on various lengths of drives. They are definitely brighter than stock but until the site takes pay pal I will hold off or look for something local. Plus the exchange rate blows for us canucks.

SCSPerformance · Jan 6, 2017

both my bulbs went out after 5-6 months when i needed them most. 5am in the morning on my way to a fishing trip. luckily, i kept the stock ones in my garage to save the day.

sy272004 · Jan 7, 2017

Not to bash on ur upgrade but u have some facts wrong
Stock hid bulbs(philips or paramount) are 3200lumens. Also come in different temp ranges to suite specific need and look without sacrificing output. Also it says off-road so that means they are not dot so not legal to drive on road just like pano hid kits

Toyojake · Jan 7, 2017

Subb'd for a later date

Awesome mod! Did similar with my XJ

crashnburn80 · Jan 7, 2017

Bluebaron7 said: ↑

I ordered this upgrade and I really can't wait to install the lights and wire combo. On a side note my credit card was also compromised for many charges after this purchase. I knew it was a possibility with other members having the same issue but it was a gamble I was willing to take. That's why I never use a debit card online or for gas when I can use a credit card for everything which isn't my money but the credit cards so they will definitely fight those frivolous charges. I'll post before and after pics when I install the upgrade. Thanks for sharing this OP.
Click to expand...

Mike44 said: ↑

After seeing all these fraud issues with this guys wiring harness orders I think I'll hold off. I've added the ceramic harness to my stock wires via a quick plug and play and im currently running the Hella 135/90 watt bulbs. No visible signs of heat warping or distortion even on various lengths of drives. They are definitely brighter than stock but until the site takes pay pal I will hold off or look for something local. Plus the exchange rate blows for us canucks.
Click to expand...

I emailed Ray at Rallylights to see if they are aware of the issue and what they are doing about it.

In the mean time, there is another vendor for made in the USA quality component H4 12 gauge headlight harnesses:
http://www.headlightservices.com/Wiring.html

SCSPerformance said: ↑

both my bulbs went out after 5-6 months when i needed them most. 5am in the morning on my way to a fishing trip. luckily, i kept the stock ones in my garage to save the day.
Click to expand...

Not ideal timing for sure. I always suggest buying 2 sets at a time to have a backup pair. Bulb life is rated at 200 hours.

crashnburn80 · Jan 9, 2017

crashnburn80[OP] said: ↑

I emailed Ray at Rallylights to see if they are aware of the issue and what they are doing about it.
Click to expand...

Ray got back to me and said they have had other reports of this as well. They have since changed their credit card processing company and all related passwords and appreciated being notified of the situation.

wdb · Jan 9, 2017

crashnburn80[OP] said: ↑

Ray got back to me and said they have had other reports of this as well. They have since changed their credit card processing company and all related passwords and appreciated being notified of the situation.
Click to expand...

I'll vouch for the rallylights guys. I live near there and visit them in person. If they say it's fixed, it's fixed.

Richterman · Jan 11, 2017

Thanks @crashnburn80 I just ordered the entire mod

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