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Adding circuits

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Driehl, Jan 21, 2016.

  1. Jan 21, 2016 at 1:53 PM
    #1
    Driehl

    Driehl [OP] Member

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    I need ideas to connect extra lights to a 3 way switch?
    How to connect it to the positive and negative side of the battery?
    Just confuesed?
    Please help?
     
  2. Jan 21, 2016 at 2:58 PM
    #2
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    There are definitely several ways to skin that cat. I used a BlueSea fuse block to add circuits. It has a place for 12 new circuits and a capacity of 100 amps. It is connected directly to the battery with a 100 amp circuit breaker on the positive side.

    IMG_5367_zps5b4f0e5e_d2cc4998863004c31a1309f4ad17de51849a9911.jpg
     
  3. Jan 21, 2016 at 3:10 PM
    #3
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    what do you mean a 3 way switch? like an on-off-on switch? or an off-on-on? or momentary?
     
  4. Jan 21, 2016 at 7:22 PM
    #4
    Driehl

    Driehl [OP] Member

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    Sorry I didn't mean 3 met 2. But yes just on-off.
    That fuse block. Is it simple to connect to a light bar with a switch
     
  5. Jan 21, 2016 at 8:24 PM
    #5
    Digiratus

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  6. Jan 21, 2016 at 8:47 PM
    #6
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    ok. youll need 1 bosch style 5 terminal relay. youll want to pick up an R3177P from carquest/advance auto parts or an AR272 from NAPA. the terminals are labeled and there is a schematic on the side to help. here's a pic, with another at the end of this post. wire as i note:

    [​IMG]

    you want to run 1 wire from any power source in the vehicle to terminal 85. for simplicity, probably straight form the positive battery terminal or the fuseblock that @Digiratus posted.

    at the same time, you want to split a lead/pigtail from the same spade on 85 to 30 just like the photo i made for you (don't you feel special........).
    Untitled.jpg

    /|\ this first wire is coming from any power supply.

    then you want to connect a wire from terminal 86 to your toggle switch (wherever you want to put it in the cab) to any ground (anywhere on the metal body works if thats most convenient for you. best to use anny already existing screw/bolt).

    that takes care of your switch!!!

    next. run a power wire from terminal 87 to a fuse or circuit breaker and then to your light bars power. and from your light bar, connect it to ground wherever works best. that's it. you may want to add another fuse just for the switch, but thats about it.

    [​IMG]
     
    Nickel and jammer like this.
  7. Jan 21, 2016 at 10:23 PM
    #7
    bry838

    bry838 Well-Known Member

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    Most places that sell light bars offer a pre made wire harness with fuse and relay fir 20 bucks usually. Itd be the easy way to go in your case. Most come with a cheapy switch too, u coukd use it or cut it off and use one of your liking..
     
  8. Feb 15, 2017 at 2:09 PM
    #8
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    How did you make your mounting bracket?
     
  9. Feb 15, 2017 at 2:19 PM
    #9
    Digiratus

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    That is a a simple metal roof shingle I found at home depot. I manually folded it to get the shape and dimensions I wanted. Drilled a couple of holes in it to mount the fuse block and to mount the shingle. To mount it to the fender, I used two existing bolts for the emissions components that are right there. Its held up surprisingly well over the years and was easy to work with.

    edit: Here is another view of the shingle
    IMG_5369_zps5c30317f_de16c3d8832837be6810aa5addc31e1df1a4a6e2.jpg
     
  10. Feb 15, 2017 at 2:28 PM
    #10
    digitaLbraVo

    digitaLbraVo Derka Derka

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    Covered in stickers and chrome stick-ons for extra horse torques and foot powers. Icon sticker gets me tons of travel, dozens of milimeters.
    These are cut/pasted from an old post of mine...

    A relay in it's simplest form (single pole, single throw) is a coil that, when power of appropriate voltage is applied, moves a switch (the pole and throw action).

    On a single pole single throw relay you'll see 4 pins.

    Coil (+) -> This comes off the switch you're using to actuate your accessory. The switch should be run though the battery.
    Coil (-) -> Direct to chassis ground or battery negative
    Load -> this goes to the positive side of your powered accessory. From the negative side of your accessory you'd go to the battery or chassis ground.
    Battery (+) -> This is your (FUSED!) power source. Or direct to the positive terminal on your battery.

    You'll have to look at the wiring diagram sorta like this:

    [​IMG]

    So you see the coil (which doesn't actually have a "proper" orientation. Power to either side will work). Terminal A can be the "Battery (+)" side. Terminal B can be load. These can be switched depending on how you prefer.

    I could draw you an actual diagram with how this would work... one sec.

    Pardon this absolutely HORRIBLE 5m paint drawing but this should give you a basic light diagram with no fusing and using a single pole single throw relay. Red "lines" show "positive" wire and green lines show grounds.

    Top/left is the relay. You see the coil, you see the "normally open" circuit.
    The yellow penis is the "light"
    The middle "normally open" line would be your switch.
    Bottom left is obviously your battery.
    [​IMG]

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/explain-what-a-relay-is-and-when-to-use-it.463107/#post-13784146
     
  11. Feb 16, 2017 at 2:00 PM
    #11
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a ton! I'm going to go ahead and copy this!
     
    Digiratus[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Feb 25, 2017 at 10:41 AM
    #12
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    Quick question, since the block has a ground, is that ground common? Or do I need to use the ground bus terminals for each accessory?

    Edit: ignore me I'm dumb
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2017
  13. Feb 25, 2017 at 10:44 AM
    #13
    digitaLbraVo

    digitaLbraVo Derka Derka

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    Covered in stickers and chrome stick-ons for extra horse torques and foot powers. Icon sticker gets me tons of travel, dozens of milimeters.
    Each circuit should be grounded to the frame at any point. If you do one large 4ga or similar ground it's probably safe to ground around 100amp to it.
     
  14. Feb 25, 2017 at 11:00 AM
    #14
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    1st gen frames are only grounded by default thru fuel/brake hard lines and e-brake type cables. From the factory there is no frame/battery bonding wire because there are no electrical loads grounded to the frame. Body yes, frame no.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2017
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  15. Feb 25, 2017 at 11:37 AM
    #15
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    All done!

    Probably gonna try to route the wires a smidge neater but it's way better than it was. I used 12ga wire for the main leads and I have MAX 55 amps running through it if everything is on at once.

    After:
    IMG_9142.jpg

    Before:
    IMG_9139.jpg
     
    Dalandser and Digiratus like this.
  16. Mar 28, 2017 at 9:53 AM
    #16
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 American Auto Horns

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    How did you bypass the existing in-line fuses, did you just cut it off and extend the wire?
     
  17. Mar 28, 2017 at 9:55 AM
    #17
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I just cut them off before the fuse. I didn't have to extend most of the wires since there was still enough length to work with.
     

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