GREAT NEWS FOR THROWOUT BEARING / RELEASE BEARING ISSUES!!!! V6 6SPEED

Alright so I've spent the last hour reading more into various fixes and I figure I should try your method (for the cost what could go wrong? ). I want to do this ASAP to try and prevent further damage... My question is this--- is this clutch rebuild kit what you would recommend I use? See here:
Toyota Part No.: 04313-34011

Or should I look specifically for a mid 90's f150 spring like you mentioned in your original thread? Thanks for your response!

 

I don't know if the Toyota part will work because I didn't use it. To work, whatever you do will need to apply 3 to 4 lbs of force on the TOB arm. So you'll have to push the slave cylinder with that kind of force to get the SC mounting bolts in. I used the F150 spring because I had it and the collar worked well to hold the spring in place. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna try the Toyota kit this time. Gonna compare the new spring vs the old and see how it feels. Getting to the slave is super easy on these trucks so if the Toyota kit spring doesn't seem any different I will look for an f150 spring.

 

Hladun- question on that. I can get a new slave cylinder for about 20 bucks. Wouldn't that be better than rebuilding the old one?

 

Getting a new SC is fine but it's got to have the right spring. I got a Beck/Arnley and the spring was even worse than the old OEM one. Once again, it's got to load the arm with 3 or 4 lbs. In other words you have to push hard to align it for the mounting bolts.

 

Some food for thought... the new slave cylinder listed in the TSB has a longer pushrod and heavier spring.

 

Is this the cylinder kit you have pictured?
Toyota Part No.: 04313-34010
and the rod?
Toyota Part No.: 31473-60160
or did you buy the whole assembly?

 

Just an update on this. I installed the post sb slave rebuild kit and it does indeed have a beefier rod (giggidy), the spring was the exact same as the one on my truck (it took a lot of force to get the slave in place pushing against the fork) however since mine is a 13 maybe they come like that (beefier spring). Well I already had the thing apart so I figured I might as well rebuild it. After installing and bleeding the system, the chirping noise vanished AT IDLE... after actuating the clutch a couple times and hasn't came back... at idle (lol). However now the same chirping noise can be heard while driving between 1700-2900 rpms. Its less obvious with the sound of the engine and tires and AC and music so I can live with it for now. I think I might be looking into the URD sleeve for my next chance to throw money at it xD (when I do my clutch) I am super OCD about noises on my vehicles and this chirp drives me slightly up the wall but I can sort of live with it for now.

 

It's from the whole assembly.

 

If it took a lot of force to get the slave in means it is preloading the TOB which is what you want. (I had emailed Toyota about that time but I don't know when they changed the part.) Your higher rpm issue may be the result of the existing damage to the TOB and transmission spindle since this modification can't resurrect parts from the dead. I'd give it some time and see if it "settles down". A warning for everyone else, if you have this problem fix it sooner for a few dollars rather than leave it till later and then spend a lot.

 

Can the URD/PDM sleeve kit be uninstalled? Say you replace the transmission at some point, can the sleeve be removed and transferred to the new tranny?

 

The urd sleeve kit can be removed since it is only held on with lock screws.

I ended up going with the urd sleeve kit after trying the other methods above and so far so good. Just make sure when installing the kit to lubricate per the supplied instructions.

 

I have an '06 6 speed with 75k on it with that squeak/issue, does it seem too early to need the throw out bearing kit from URD? My clutch is perfectly fine too. Also does anyone have experience replacing it themselves or am I better off taking it to the shop. Thanks

 

Well I got my TSB on the throwout bearing around 50k miles. About to hit 100k and yup started hearing the chirping again. Unfortunately Toyota will not warranty anything this second go around. Are people really ponying up 1k to fix theirs?

Also a technician at Toyota says the chirping is not hurting anything?!

 

I definitely wouldn't say that. It could over time wear into the quil enough to cause it to actually break off from some accounts. My wife's Subaru has a transmission with the same flawed design. Her throw out bearing developed the same chirp noise (only when it was cold) and about 100 miles after it started chirping, the throw out bearing completely shit itself exploding inside the bellhousing and it really tore up the quil and clutch assembly.

I would at least get a sleeve put on for some peace of mind that your quil won't suffer too much.

Not early IMO, mine started around 30k ish. If you've done mechanical work before, it's a fairly simple trans to drop. Only the top two bellhousing fasteners are a bit of a pain but long extensions with wobbles help.

 

I've seen some over 100k since the chirping started and no issue.

Still waiting on URD for updated hydro bearing or whatever they are doing.

 

My truck started chirping around 50k, only in really cold weather. Now I'm at 64k and it is constantly chirping. I had replaced the accessory belt thinking it was the culprit, nope...still chirping. Starting thinking it was one of the accessory pulleys for a while.

Pretty much slowly making my way to a mental institution at this point with the chirping driving me there in my own truck!

I only get the noise in idle, and so it must be transmission related. more and more research led me to this thread. I was pretty much committed to paying over $1000 to someone to drop the transmission, replace the clutch, and install this famous URD kit.

buuuutttt.....

I finally had a minor breakthrough with the problem. I talked to my local transmission shop, and they said I might be able to spray some lube in from the where the clutch fork enters the bell housing. And it seems to be working! Once you remove the heat shield from the slave cylinder, there is a straight look right at the primary suspect, the clutch release bearing. I shot in some WD-40 while my wife pumped the clutch in and out (in neutral) for now and the noise went away immediately.

I need to get back in there was some thicker grease because the WD-40 seems to wear off rather quickly. I plan to crawl back under there and Liquid Wrench white spray-able grease. It made complete sense when the transmission guy told me. I am an avid cyclist and do all my own maintenance, and I clean/lube bearings on all my bikes all the time to keep them running smooth. All bearings are the same really, they just need some TLC with some lube.

My goal would be to line it up with oil changes and just hit it with a quick grease each time. I only just discovered this, sooo I'll have to give an update at the next oil change.

Can anybody inform me what the potential downsides are if my aim is off and I get grease somewhere other than the bearing?

 

I answered my own question...contaminating the clutch is potential downside.

Found it here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/throwout-bearing-again.17819/page-17

 

Wet surfaces also attract dust/dirt

 

Worked for me too on my 05. I use a long grease gun needle. Spraying grease in there is dangerous.