98 TRD 3.4L Turbo , Methanol , LT

But did it have snail power???? Naaaa.

 

Dunno. I'd hope some kind of boost with 42" tires.......

 

Tire gate is on. Took a crap ton of work. Wiring in the license plate and rear back up/running lights was the most of the project. Next up is 5 beadlocks and 5 mud tires.







Couple Yoga poses......

 

Damn! Stuff much, looks awesome and makes me wanna go full LT. Maybe down the road ha

 

Your mall crawl game is on point. Truck is looking good.

 

Lofl.......good stuff. It's tough to be me. Taking her up this weekend to a more woodsy mall in the Rockies. Getting her airborne for sure.

 

Not bad for 4 hours worth of work..... I'm liking her new rear bumper.

 

Interesting jackstands

 

Hey that took some em

Hey that took some engineering to get right!

 

I did this too. Color change, flash, plus I can put it on white light to see in the bed if I need. Hey at least I didn't UFO out my head lights this time.......

 

https://youtu.be/mUSPtdEOSvg

 

Uhhhh oh.......

 

I guess im officially an LT truck now. Dont they all have a skid thing? Put this piece of aluminum in to keep rocks out of the intercooler. Has holes because intercooler. Lol........ Im liking the look. Still going to beef up the front bumper more. Also finished up the rear bumper. Came out great! Putting the final black coats on.

 

I need some help fellas. I'll be posting this on more than one thread (thanks in advance Josh)
My truck has been running lean in closed loop lately... like 17:1 and even leaner. Under 55mph it seems to be normal, but at highway speeds it slowly starts to revert to running lean (fluctuate from 15:1 to sometimes 20:1). Also when I come to a stop and put it in neutral, the truck will idle very low at 17:1 or leaner, then (usually) gradually go back up to 800RPM at 15ish:1 AFR within 10 seconds. WOT is PERFECT 11.5:1 AFR and very powerful (14-18 degrees timing advance depending on outside temp).
The weird thing is that my OBDII reader is telling me that the O2 thinks that I'm running rich (I think). I have no cat, and ZERO rear o2 manipulation, and the readings tend to vary A LOT between the two sensors. When it goes lean, the scanner says that the front O2 reads ".500+" and the rear will read ".200 or lower". LTFT will sometimes be up to "-15". I had a year old denso o2 that I swapped for a boshe (yeah yeah I know) to see if the denso was bad, but nothing changed. No intake leaks, no FPR leaks.
I have cleaned the MAF and it's inner wires to a mirror shine. I have cleaned the connectors for the MAF and the front O2 and applied dielectric grease.
Oh... and no codes.
If I turn the engine off and back on quick (while driving), it will run perfectly for a couple minutes.
Also, I know that when engine braking (MT), the ECU is supposed to cut the fuel which should result in maximum lean readings on the wideband... but my AFR's are 10:1-13:1 while engine braking.
I really need some advice because I have serious problems with not only running lean, but taking my truck in for something that is probably easy to fix.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/turbo-bs-thread.481844/

I'd post in this thread. Sounds like my issue when my maf heat soaks on super hot days. Does it do it on cooler days?

 

Gio since we both live in Denver my afr's have been all over the place lately too......

 

OMGoodness 112 pages? Ha, ok. Yes, it runs significantly better on cold days/nights.

 

I think I found the way around it. Because our maf is after the turbo summer street driving is making really high intake temp readings. This makes the ecu freak out until it can cool down. It seems rich but reads lean on afr. Way around it is to put a resistor in place of the temp sensor on the maf. I think you use a 2200 resistor. Basically will tell the computer 80 degree air is always going in the motor. With your piggyback you do some temperature compensation to pull just a little bit of fuel on hot days. Or run a summer and winter tune.