2006 Tacoma PreRunner 2nd Gen Lower Ball Joint Replacement

So...
I replaced a lower ball joint on my 2006 Pre Runner. Thought I'd do a little write up and share a few pics. There just wasn't a great write up going around when I was looking into doing this so I figured I'd throw one together. It wasn't as tough as I had anticipated and/or read about in the info I found.



Here we go...
I went with a Moog Lower Ball Joint. There are some opinions on Moog floating around and I found most of them to be positive and the price is affordable...



I went to the local auto parts store and borrowed the Ball Joint/U Joint Tool Set.
You have to deposit the money (AutoZone about $200) and you get that back when you return the kit. You Definitely Need This Kit! It would have been a nightmare without it...





First you have to get to the joint...
Lift, chalk and jack stands as always when working on a jacked vehicle.
-Remove wheel...
-Remove the caliper and bungee it to the side (you will have to remove the brake line bracket from the spindle so you don't stress your brake lines)...
-I run Spacers so remove those if applicable --Remove the brake disc...
-Remove the tie rod end from the spindle by first removing cotter pin and castle nut (you will need to smack this with a hammer to pop it out)...
-Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the lower ball joint...
-Remove the two bolts connecting the spindle to the steering stop and swing the spindle to the side and bungee (I did Not disconnect the UCA from the spindle)...
-Swing the spindle out the way and bungee it...



-Remove the steering stop from the Ball Joint (you will need the hammer again to smack this loose as well, couple of whacks and it'll drop)...
-You'll need to remove the snap ring, I used a couple of flat head screwdrivers and a hammer and... it was a little tricky and I was cussing at this point.
-Now you're ready to use the Ball Joint tool. You will have to find the right sizes and may need to mix and match pieces to find the correct set up to push the joint out. I used my impact to torque the press and pop the joint out and it dropped without too much resistance... you have just finished with the easy part.



-Time to put your new Moog ball joint in!
-There is a mark on the new joint that needs to be pointing toward the engine (refer to your Moog intstallation guide)...



-Again, you will have to mix/match pieces from the set to find the right set up...
*IMPORTANT*
-Make sure that as you get your new Joint started on its way into it's new home that you start it off level & even with your control arm. If you are "off camber" on this the joint will go in crooked and you will have to pop it out and start again (I did this twice before getting it straight take your time and get it right)...
--Might make a note here that you should wipe out and clean all of your holes, parts, threads, armpits, balls/gina, asscrack, etc...



-This was the most difficult part of the job, getting the joint started straight and then seated... I used my impact on the press to get the Joint in as far as possible, my impact was definitely put to the test as she was heating up and struggling once past the halfway point... This is where I broke out my big ratchet & cheater bar!



I was lucky to have some pipe laying around (you might want to find suitable cheater & ratchet/breaker bar before you begin)... This took some effort and elbow grease to finish seating the joint...
-Once your confident that the joint is seated you should be able to get the snap ring in place (be sure the ring is seated by tapping around it with screwdriver to be sure it's fully seated in the groove) the hard part is over and you're now ready to screw on the zerk and reassemble...





-Steering stop onto bottom of joint with castle nut & cotter pin...
-Spindle back to steer stop...
-Tie rod end... (you may need to replace castle nut & cotter pin, I had just replaced these the week before so I was confident they were still in working condition, it is recommended to replace these with new ones)...
-Disc...
-Spacers...
-Caliper back on...
-Brake line to spindle...
-Wheel...
Boom!!!
Now go hit the trails and break her in!

Let's See... be sure to look up your toque specs for all applicable nuts/bolts. You could also look up most of these steps and find helpful videos, i.e. "How to remove tie rods", "removing the spindle", "snap rings", etc... You should be able to find this with a little help from Google.

Here is a cool video of a ball joint replacement (not a Tacoma but you still get basic ideas)
https://youtu.be/37NgLM4tIzw

Here is an awesome Torque Spec Guide
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/

*Tools*
-Impact Gun
-Metric Impact/Socket Set 17,19,22,24mm
-Ball/U Joint Set (I like AutoZone’s)
-Bungees
-Snap Ring Tool (I still need to get one of these, some needle nose and a little finagling does the trick too )
-Decent sized flat head screwdrivers
-Ratchet
-Breaker Bar
-Cheater Pipe
-Hammer and/or 2lb/5lb sledge
-Jack Stands
-Wheel Chalks
-Hydraulic Jack
-Bandanna (keep the sweat at bay)
-Water/Beer/Capri Sun..???
-Patients
-Etc.



Hope This Helps!
If you're uncertain, it's not all that difficult with the right tools.
This was my first and I got her done in a couple hours... The passenger side will be a breeze!

See You On The Trails ~Berg

 

Nice write up and nice taco!

 

damn I need a mini ramp in my garage...

 

That's The American Dream...
Well Ain't It?

 

i wholeheartedly agree

 

Great write up!
Can you add the MOOG part number to the list please?

 

Done!
OP Edited...

 

Thanks

 

Thank You!

 

thank you for doing a write up on this! it seems this may be one of the biggest PITA there is for replacing front suspension parts according to other threads and you made it look easy

bravo

 

Agreed...
I had the parts ordered and sitting at home while I was researching how to do the job. I was actually ready to find a shop to take it on and spend the coin after some of the stuff I read. Decided to just go for it!

 

Out of all of that, my eyes focused on
"-Water/Beer/CAPRI SUN...???
Mind the beer...
You sir, know how to party.

 

So was it as bad as all the other threads made it seem?
I think I remember one guy saying a 30 ton press couldn't get the BJ pressed in/out

This thread makes me want to try doing it myself but then I also don't want to risk getting halfway through and not being able to finish

 

very nice!!

 

We tried this on my biddies truck and was a major pain in the as$. Couldn't get the new ball joint all the way in.

 

So how did y all get the job finished?

 

Shop

 

There are a few methods for moving stubborn parts that make the impossible happen. Mine looked like they would never move under the ball joint press, but one sharp blow to the LCA with a 4 lbs hammer while the press was applying pressure and the ball joint just threw itself to the ground. Penetrating oil is really powerful. Heat can make a huge difference, just if you are going in for heat be willing to use it like you aren't scared of it... the LCA can take a lot and the ball joint you are removing is garbage anyway.

To get the new joint in, you just have to line it up straight. Be fussy with the adapter for the press, and then watch it to make sure it doesn't slip crooked as it goes in.

Make sure you use the right tools, a ball joint press is necessary and an impact wrench really speeds things up.

You can definitely do this job. If there is one thing to be cautious about before you start, make sure you have an adapter that is exactly sized to go around your existing ball joint without any play. I had to get a piece of 4 5/8" inside diameter tube cut at a metal store... could not find an adapter to fit anywhere. Then I had to squish it oval with my hammer to get it to fit tightly. That cost me $6.00 and I was in business. If you are removing the Moog 80827 part, you need 2 1/2" inside diameter tube.

 

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated!
This is why I love TW