Long Travel BS Thread

Yep. Why they always look so god no matter what haha. Mine still look brand new and have lived outside year round for 3 years. Same with my dad's. Plus the ride is amazing. Never had a shock out of the box ride so damn smooth. (Yes I know any shock can be valved correctly so that point is mute)

 

As someone who's done that, but with a 4 cyl, I can say that its one of my favorite mods I've done so far and its super useful for them deep puddles.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4cyl-in-the-cowl-snokel-write-up.485390/

 

The Fox bodies are holding up to the colorado weather with no treatement on them even though I know I should spray them with something to help keep them nice. I've also only ran them a couple of years now.

 

Sorry I'm a little late, haven't been on in awhile. So far mine is still holding strong. But I also plated the top, welded up all the seems, welded where the crossmemeber mounts to the frame, and box'd the frame in the whole way too. A big factor on it is what your link spread is. When a buddy did the math on the actual load it see's it surprised me by not being that much. I don't remember the exact number but I know a 1/2" fk hiem load rating wise was overkill. Naturally I put a 1.25 lol

 

Any 1st gens running McNeil bedsides ?

 

You're just mid travel right? Did you check tire clearance..

 

The body is going to move independent of the shock hoop. And that piston at the hose end of the reservoir has a large leverage pull ( hose end and all the fittings) the may “pull loose” the end cap. Mine does that on install sometimes. I would try at least to keep the hose from touching the body.

 

No, the glass fenders are just fenders they are not your inner wheel wells. The angle that you have that resi clamped at across that tube seems like it is begging to come lose. Seems like you need some of these https://www.ebay.com/i/192243910862...3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1406139486846 and to change that top fitting on your resi to an angled one.

 

And ? they are clearly using the the urethane mounts and you have yours clamped metal to metal ? What @Y2kbaja said is dead on too, that hose is going to get mangled by the constant body flex. You can't see it in that picture but I guarantee you TC did not set it up with the resi hose smashed into the wheel well.

 

One easy fix I did when I had this problem was cut a piece of radiator hose in half and zip tie it to the portion of the resi house that touches the body that way the rubber hose rubs the body and not your resi hose.

I ran mine for years like that without the resi hose every getting chafed.

 

The TC resi mounts I think where intended to be used like this. Can you run the hose clamp between the mount and tube?

 

Exactly, just zip tie that piece of rubber to the resi hose so it doesn’t fall off or move.

 

run it nothing will happen, like 06ahole said, run the rubber piece and it'll be fine

 

This should be the part number for the Ranger, this is the one I used

211590-1XS from https://www.iedls.com

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...uy-iedls-polyurethane-carrier-bearing.421410/

 

Can you slide the resi down a little and get more clearance up top?
You're real close to being good to go.
Like Y2Kbaja said you don't want the inner fenderwell pushing against or close to the metal hose end of the hose where it can potentially unseat the resi cap.

 

I could be wrong, but I'm fairly certain those Fox resi's were designed to dangle freely.....no hose clamps required. They're built extra thick in the event they smash into your tire, fender, fender well, control arms, ect.... Anyone who straps these down clearly doesn't know the intent of the design.

You're welcome.

 

Any bump steer with the Tundra rack?

 

Question for you pros.. 2018 trd pro tacoma .. i have kings 2.5 with the 600 lb spring. I heard to adjust the preload before installing so itll be easier because adjusting it once on will be a bitch. So approx how many threads should i aim for to achieve 2.5in of lift? I heard to do the drivers sids 1-2 threads more to fix the “taco lean” . Thanks fellas

 

It's same dimensions as oem

 

If its anything like a first gen, remove all spring slack and add 50% of the desired lift in preload, add an extra 3/16" to the driver side.