MPG Mods

It's a literal plug-n-play into the OBD-II port near the hood release.

 

Possibly. Over inflating will make the centers wear faster, the only way to know if 38 is overinflated for your ride is to check your patterns. Saving money on gas but buying more tires isn't a savings.

 

Hmm, yes your wear may vary, but I've been running 45psi for decades with no evidence of more wear in the center, probably those bias plys did that but not radials from my experience.

 

Overinflation will reduce the tread contact patch and therefore reduce rolling resistance (and increase MPG) just remember that a smaller contact patch also means less traction. So don't go overboard. I run 35 front/32 rear (standard 5-lug radial tires) which is 6psi extra in the front -- on an unloaded truck, the size of the contact patch is about equal front/rear with these pressures. I usually let a few pounds out of the tires during wet weather to provide better traction, since they are overinflated to begin with.

 

I bought the AFE Pro Dry Air Filter from Auto Anything about 3 yrs ago, zero problems since. Take it out clean it off with a vacumn cleaner and pop it back in, no oil necessary like K&N. I noticed a boost in horsepower after putting the initial one in the first time & it's worth the extra cost.

 

Subscribed.

Will start with removing the carbon filter and adding an AFE Pro Dry Air Filter. Already using 0W-20 synthetic oil, and will use synthetic transmission and rear differential fluids when I replace them at 50,000 - 60,000 miles.

 

If you've read this thread you would know that intake modifications do nothing for mpg. Waste of time.

 

The only way to see ant difference in an simple bolt on is with a dyno. It's not going to be noticeable.

 

Aloha Guys, I Live Here in Hawaii. We are Allowed to put on Headers, and Other Filters. We DO NOT HAVE A DRAG STRIP! Property is JUST TOO EXPENSIVE! I have A 4x2 1998 SR5 V-6 5 Speed Extra Cab. I have had it for Almost 20 Years. Hardly ANY Trouble at All. With Only 90,000 original Miles on it. Always Maintained and Enclosed Garage, Plus Always Use Mobil Synthetic Fluids. Will Keep this truck Forever.

May You All BE Blessed Forever!

Aloha Hawaiianbob

 

I agree "never have to buy a new filter again" I got the air filter and made a cabin filter - I just clean them when I do oil change if they look at all dirty - again "never have to buy a new filter again" can't beat that.

 

only thing is how well does the AFE filter filter out harmfull particles that could end up inside your engine compared to a OEM paper filter? if you get a more free airflow from the AFE that means less restriction (filtering) and more harmfull particles getting by the media into the engine.

 

I just test out mine 2017 4x2 SR DC, 47 miles on highway and get 30 mpg. Truck is stock with sr5 alloy wheel, 34psi front and 32 psi rear. Keep speed around 60-65 mph.

 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but one of the catalysts of MTBE being outed and eventually stopped was animal scientists discovering through necropsies being conducted on Bald Eagles and the eggs they crushed when they sat on them. The MTBE consumed by the Bald Eagles in their dietary sources caused their egg shells to be thin, so this became a federally investigated Who Done It to save our national bird. Before MTBE was approved, the only companies that wanted it approved were the ones developing it while everyone else railed against it. The EPA bowed to the financial wooing of the MTBE makers. The EPA is just as corrupt as every other agency that is allowed to impose their own regulations without congressional approval. They're not completely evil, but they are certainly this is overzealous and too big for their britches.

To tie this this in with MPG part of this thread, the EPA regulations are what drive manufacturers to increase MPG's from the factory as best as possible within reason for the consumber. Manufacturer's are always tinkering with ways to improve it, but not always successful. Also take into consideration that big oil/gas companies also work against better MPGs so that they can retain their built-in flow of money. My brother misses the old days where he could just punch a few pin holes into a carb or something like that and get almost x1.5 improvement on his MPGs. I know little about engines, so I'm not sure what he's talking about, but my old '91 Civic used to get 40mpg new and 39 when I sold it 8 years later. Tacos could get better MPGs but it's up to us to figure out legal ways of doing it.

I like the suggestions in this thread so far and have about 3-4 more pages to go.

 

So, for a '18 Sport, DC, 5' bed, 4x4 ( planned purchase )...

1) AFE Pro Dry Air ( for HP, not MPG )
2) Driving habits ( try not to exceed 2000 rpm is my take away )
3) Increase front tire pressure by +2/3 over rear
4) Synthetic oil ( change others when the time comes )
5) Hard top bed cover
6) Stick between 65-70 MPH
7) Chip from autochipsdirect.com ( ? )
8) Discard unnecessary weight from vehicle, i.e. spare tire? Makes sense if you have roadside assistance and can get a free tow home.

Am I missing anything? Is something listed unnecessary?

I'm okay with driving at or just over the speed limit for one reason... It makes sure that someone else is always faster than you, so they'll get the speeding tickets instead of you and the middle lane of the interstate is just fine and perfectly legal. Of 'course, this gets thrown out the door with the Oceanside, CA PD motorcycle cops since they write up their own lieutenant's wife for being 3mph over the limit ( I fell victim to them twice ).

 

9) Drive like your brakes don't work.

If you drive in a way that requires you to slam on your brakes a lot you are doing it wrong.

10) look further down the road and anticipate the lights, no need to rush to the next red light.

None of the things listed above will have as much effect as smart driving.

 

You are confusing DDT with MTBE. Your conspiracy theory doesn't work

 

Many don't drive with mpg as a priority but there will be times when it's a useful ability. Like most things, doing it well requires enough practice fostering the right habits to make them stick. Removing roof racks(or any other crap) when not in use is also really helpful.

 

LOL - I stand corrected.

 

Since aluminum wheels weigh less (but cost more) than steel has anyone switched to aluminum wheels and found any real life MPG benefits?

 

Tires, Tires, Tires. the more knarly the thread, the worse the MPG (in my experience). I have got 200k on my 2012 Taco and every time I move to a more "off-road" pattern with Thicker Sidewalls the MPG drops. Go back to Street tires with the thinner sidewall and the MPG pops back up. I am certain the weight is an issue and I suspect the tread pattern effects the rolling resistance too...