100k mile tramsmission service

Read a lot of discourse on changing out WS fluid and replacing with Synthetic but every shop I talk with has different procedure.
1.Most want to drop pan, assess condition, replace filter and gasket but only add a few quarts that they remove. This leaves most of the old fluid in the converter and elsewhere.
2. Toyota wants to flush it only without filter change and pan clean but wont specify how the flush works or how much fluid is replaced.
3. Some shops will only flush without filter change and they use the transmission cooler line to connect and use the transmission pump to remove fluid( not sure of quantity) and I suppose the fill port to replace?
Please comment on the recommended service.

 

Why not do it yourself? It isn't that difficult. This thread shows you how to do it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/

 

This. Very simple if you have the trans cooler. Either use a 5 dollar pump sprayer from walmart or the 8 dollar drill pump from Amazon. When i do this again at like 170k ill use the drill pump

 

The first method is called a drain and refill. This is an accepted method if done regularly, usually every 20-40K. Then between 100-150K, replace or clean the ATF filter. The next two procedures flush the transmission, removing up to 95% of the old ATF. The general recommended mileage for a flush is 70-90K, and replace the filter at the 2nd flush. But, you can certainly replace the filter at the first flush, especially if the old ATF comes out dark, or you notice metal shavings in the fluid - see charts below.

The OEM method (from my 2007 manual) is to inspect the ATF every 30K miles, or replace the ATF at 30K if the truck falls under "Special Operating Conditions", aka severe duty usage, such as towing, off-roading, etc... Toyota does not provide a procedure for inspecting the ATF, or replacing the filter, but if you want your tranny to last, replace the ATF regularly, either drain/refill or flush.

 

Welcome aboard. Seems like the boys are takin good care of ya

 

Most shops are recommending option 1 because with such a long change interval (100K) a flush can actually result in the transmission failing soon after. Some shops will even refuse to touch it at all once at a high mileage because in their experience at a certain point leaving the old fluid in is lower risk than tinkering with things and then being blamed by the customer when things fail shortly after.

Dropping the pan on the first change allows the pan magnets to be cleaned and inspected as well as changing or cleaning the filter/screen. This is good to do on the first change since the most wear happens early in the life of the transmission.

Changing just what is in the pan (aka drain and fill) is preferred over flush precisely because it doesn’t replace all the fluid at once. As dumb as it sounds it seems some transmission mechanics think all new fluid may loosen a lot of particulates all at once and clog things. Slowly replacing the fluid over time with periodic drain/fill is their preference. So based on their experience with lots of transmissions coming back to their shop shortly after a flush they feel safer doing the drain and fill.

Lots and lots of threads on the topic here with more details if you search.

Personally I’d take the recommendation of a reputable transmission shop over a Toyota dealer.

 

Just curious, call your local Toyota dealer and see what they advise. I’ve had two different dealers tell me they don’t recommend doing anything at all. Sounds strange, I would think they would want the business.

 

The best advice to follow may be what the 400k+ people on this forum did for their trans . I am actually hard pressed to remember any relatively recent posts regarding 2nd Gen transmissions going bad for any reason.

 

I am at the dealer this morning for an unrelated issue, but I asked them about the trans fluid and they said there’s nothing to be done.

It really surprised me, but since it means actually turning down money I believe them lol. I’m at 148,000 btw.

 

I changed mine shortly after I bought the truck (35K miles on it) last year. I plan to drop the pan & change the filter at 60K, I'm at 53,8XX now.

 

even easier, get a ~5' length of tube and a funnel. run the tube from the fill port up into the engine bay. I dont have a pic, but it made adding ATF a WHOLE lot easier than pumping in.

 

Great information on DIY trans service, thank you! Any input on using Aisin or pentosin ATF at half the Toyota WS fluid

 

TBH, I've used Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic - red bottle from Walmart for 17 bucks a gallon. Others have used and recommended it, including Gearcruncher who is our resident Trans tech/expert.

 

I did the full gentle flush method, so I'd run the engine, allow 1/2 gallon to pump out, then pump 1/2 gallon in, using the trans cooler hoses. Your method would def be easier for doing the pan drop/fill, and obviously my method wouldn't work if you dont have the towing package.

 

All sorts of opinions about which way to go. On these newer vehicles that come minus a dip stick, I use the method in post #9.

Someone who knows a lot about transmissions seems to think that approach is OK - post #15

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tranny-question.438475/#post-12718550

 

That is borderline idiotic when the owner's manual says to at least inspect the ATF every 30K. To some that means just to top off, but to most of us that care about the longevity of our trannies, it means take a small sample to see how dark it is and replace accordingly. All the main fluids in the vehicle (motor oil, PS, brakes, ATD) accumulate contaminants as the inside materials in the lubricating components wear down.

As to changing trany ATF in high mileage vehicles, don't go by the mileage, although it is a contributing factor if mileage is extremely high. Go by the color guide. If dark brown to black and the fluid smells burnt, then you should not do a flush. At that point the ATF has so much material in it that removing it will cause the trany to slip. A series of drain/refill is a better approach. But, you should start shopping for a tranny, or sell the car.

 

I’ve yet to touch mine...177,000 miles. I’m the type that believes the several mechanics’ opinions I’ve talked to over someone on an Internet forum...no offense intended

 

You may want to add an inexpensive magnetic filter on the return line. A great read on why automatic transmissions and power steering units fail is highlighted in the linked article and with some diligent searching the original SAE technical papers can be found: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/t...atic-transmission-and-power-steering-filters/

 

I had mine done at 50k, full fluid exchange using cooler hoses.

The best method is dropping the pan, then exchanging the fluid using the input/output tubes accessible there. That way you can pump 12 litres old out and 12 litres new in. Put the pan back on, add the last little bit of fluid that you lost from the pan, warm it up and do final Fluid level adjustment.

The problem with the cooler hoses method is that some fresh fluid is diverted into the torque converter right away, mixing with old before it leaves the converter and makes its way to the pan. So to get it truly spotless you have to pump and extra gallon of fluid through.

Not a big deal but costs more and it's a waste of fluid.

 

No offense taken. Do note my opinions come from mechanic's opinions as well, including our resident tranny guru, who is a tranny mechanic - @gearcruncher . And looking at your ATF and comparing it to a widely accepted color guide as the one posted above is more a practice than an opinion. To be 100% certain, you can mail an ATF sample to Blackstone for analysis.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-get-it-out-of-your-transmission-now.331521/