How to: Install 2009+ JBL Head Unit w/ Bluetooth in 2005 Tacoma

I started a thread a little while back asking for help on this project. Now that I have more or less worked it out I felt it would be necessary to start a new thread on how I did it.

First I need to give credit where credit is due, thanks to everyone who posted to my first thread. thanks to Billyjoe for his work on wiring a aux input in a 2009+ head unit. His wiring diagrams helped me solve a problem I was having with the bluetooth voice output. And finally thanks to Afrotech's op-amp tutorial.

Before I get too far a head of myself I should introduce this project a little more thoroughly.

Revision History
5/3/12 - Added information about using a microphone from the overhead console of a 2007 camry (see end of post).

Introduction
I have a 2005 DBCB Tacoma with JBL audio system installed from the factory. In 2009 Toyota upgraded the factory JBL head unit to incorporate the following capabilities: bluetooth (BT), MP3/WMA CD, XM, and 3.5mm Aux input.

This thread documents how to get the BT function to work. I would say this is an easy mod if you buy all the components. You will need to know how to read a wiring diagram. You will be constantly referencing this diagram: . Note that the colors of wires may be different so pay closer attention to the pin numbers. Use this for all of your connector and pinout references.

Before I started this project, I had several questions about the newer JBL system. I will try to cover a few of these next.

FAQ

Q: Will a 2009+ JBL Head Unit plug and play in my existing 2005-2008 JBL wiring harness?
A: Yes, if all you want is the CD and FM/AM radio function then it is a plug and play mod. However, if you want XM you will need to add a XM antenna, if you want the Aux Input you need to see this thread By TW member Billyjoe, and if you want bluetooth...keep on reading.

Q: Is bluetooth built into the 2009+ JBL Head Unit?
A: Yes to put it simply.

Q: Do I need the 2009+ JBL Amplifier?
A: No, all the features work with the 2005-2008 JBL Amplifier. In addition, The 2009 amplifier uses different connector that do not fit the 2005-2008 wiring harness installed in your truck.

Q: Will this work if you do not have a JBL system installed in my truck from the factory?
A: In short, no. There is hope however, PM Billyjoe because last I heard he is making a wiring harness so it can be done.

Bluetooth System Diagram
this diagram is intended to be a visual aid for all the components you will need to add to your existing JBL System in order to gain the function of the BT phone system.



Installing the New Head Unit
I will not go into to much detail on how to install the new head unit. This is the easiest part of this mod. Everything just unplugs from the old head unit and plugs right into the back of the new one.

Installing steering wheel bluetooth controls.
Here are your options.

1. Purchase the bluetooth controls from toyota P/N: 84250-04010-B0 - $148 + Shipping from here.

2. Make your own.



Here is a cheat sheet I made that will give you all the information you need to make your own switches.



I got a pack of resisters from RadioShack and a little breadboard. Next I got these switches from TE.com. You can request samples for TE.com. It took a little over a week but I got my three switches from them for free.

Once I had all the components I needed to make the circuit I began testing it with my multimeter (you can get multimeters really cheap at harbor freight).

Here I am comparing all three switches with the resister values from the table in the picture above.

Tip: if you can't find the exact resistor you can daisy chain some together and just add up their resistance.







Unfortunately I didn't take that many pictures of my permanent circuit board but if you have any questions just ask.

I used a dremel tool to make the holes for the switches in the right hand side steering wheel blank. Then I used JB weld to secure them in place.






Removing the steering wheel pad

1. Begin by unplugging the negative battery terminal and wait at least 90 seconds before continuing. This will disable the SRS system so the Airbag will not deploy.

2. Remove the side cover on both side of the steering wheel to expose the the two screws (one on each side)
​

3. use a T30 Torx head to remove both screws
​

4. once the screws are removed (they will not come out of the plastic bracket) use your finger to gently pry back on the screw and bracket, at the same time gently pull back on the steering wheel pad from the same side. It should come out with very little force.


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After the airbag is removed you can access the control wires SW1, SWG, and SW2. In this picture you can see where I tapped into SW2 and SWG, which stands for signal wire 2 and signal wire ground. Use your multimeter again and test to make sure your switches are working properly. Remember to reference the separate amp wiring diagram to find the correct wires.




Running BT voice wires and speed sensor wires to the Amplifier
Reference the wiring diagram.

you will need to connect the speed sensor wire to the amplifier behind the passenger rear seat.



In addition, you will need to connect the bluetooth voice wires. These wiring should be shielded, which means they usually have a tinfoil type wrapping on the inside with a bare wire which basically acts as a grounding dump to keep noise from interfering with your sound.


Here is what part of my wiring looks like behind the glovebox.



Making your own amplified microphone[/B]

This was the hardest part of the whole mod. Mostly because my knowledge of op-amps and capacitors went out the window after I graduated college. But this mic really does work great and it will save you a lot of money if you make it yourself. I will do my best to explain this circuit in great detail.

First check out this diagram.


The over all circuit is pretty basic. you have signal (MIC+), Power (MCVD), and Ground (MIC-). Also you need to jump pins 1 and 6 in the R10 Connector. More on the connector will be discussed in the next section.

Here is a diagram I made for the microphone it self.



and here is what that looks like on my breadboard.



Here is the diagram of the op-amp I used. You could use a smaller op-amp if you like this was just one that was recommended from a tutorial I watched.



Here is what the amplifier looked like after I soldered it to a circuit board. You can get these circuit boards at RadioShack for like $2. I cut mine with a dremel tool to make it smaller.



I had a microphone housing that I wasn't using which I thought would be easier to mount. I installed the microphone from RadioShack into it and wired it to my amplifier.



It looks like the power (pink wire) is connected to the ground bar but it actually crosses over to the power bar.

Running Microphone wires
Again you will need shielded wires. You will also need to pick up the R10 connector from the dealership which plugs into the back of the head unit. Unfortunately, I did not get the pin part numbers because I had extra ones from another harness I used. When I do get those numbers I will add them to this section. When ordering this connector, make sure you get the pins with it as well since they are sold separately.



I routed my microphone to the overhead console and used another microphone housing I had lying around to make it look clean.



Testing the System

Now in a perfect world everything should be working about now.
If you have everything hooked up and you hit the voice button on your steering wheel controls, a lady's voice should start prompting you to say a command and the head unit will display the word "Listening". Refer to the OEM manual for help pairing your phone and using all of its functions .

Trouble Shooting Tips
Now what is more likely to happen when you push that voice button is nothing. Don't panic this system is very forgiving and you probably missed placed a wiring in one of the connection of forgot it all together. One thing to note: If a single wire if unplugged or missed placed. i.e. you wired the amp correctly but the microphone is not wired correctly, the entire bluetooth system will not function. EVERYTHING has to be connected. I suggest you go back through your wiring diagram and look for any mistakes. If you find a mistake, fix it. Make sure you turn off the truck and let it sit for a second and then try the voice switch again. Repeat these steps until the head unit responds to your voice controls.

Conclusion
I have first hand experience on how forgiving this system is so don't sweat it if you hooked anything up wrong I am pretty sure you will not destroy anything but then again it could happen I guess. This is definitely not the easiest mod but I certainly have a sense of accomplishment now that I have everything working correctly.

I realize this mod is not for everyone. I more started this thread for myself so if I ever have any questions on what I did say 5 years from now, hopefully this place will still be around so I can refer back to this thread. Also if its helps someone else out down the road, well then I guess that is ok too.

-FB

Edit: 5/3/12
The microphone I built worked but did not give me the quality of sound that I wanted. Apparently while traveling at high speeds it was difficult for people on the other line to understand me.

I decided at this time that I would like to simply use a factory microphone. I was to the point where I almost purchased a 4runner mic from the dealer at the tune of $115. Then I decided to expand my search on ebay. Instead of typing Toyota microphone, 4runner microphone, or camry microphone, etc. I searched Camry overhead console. This is what I found...

2007 camry overhead console $35 shipped.



Most seller don't know that the overhead console contains a microphone so it is not in the description. You can look for an overhead console and if you see the blue plug with the black box at the end, that is the microphone. It is easy to remove and install. I wired in this microphone using the same wiring colors from my previous diagram and it works great! Plus now I can resell the overhead console to try and recover some of my cost.

 

Here is a quick video of the system working.

 

I have had a few people PM me about the shielded wire so I will include some more information on it.

The shielded wire is needed to block unwanted noise interference. It is basically normal wire with a tinfoil wrapping and a bare wire ground.

Here is a basic Picture:


How that looks in a wiring diagram:



The picture above is a diagram of the factory Aux input. Notice the AGND wire. That is the bare shielded ground wire. Also note that the picture of shielded wire that I have labeled above would not work for configuration shown in the diagram because it only contains two shielded wires where the diagram requires three.

With all that said, the next question is where do I get the wire?

I got a roll off ebay of all places. But a simple google search for it should produce many places where you can buy it. Just make sure it has at least three shielded wires. The roll I ordered had two pairs of shielded wire with each pair having its own shielded ground wire. But as long as you order a roll with at least three shielded wires you should be okay.

I hope this answers those questions I received on this topic.

For connecting all the components to do this Bluetooth mod I had to run shielded wire from the head unit to the factory amp behind the passenger back seat, from the head unit up the front windshield column to the over head console for the mic, and a short run from the head unit to the aux input jack.

 

I have been using this bluetooth system for a while now and some new things have come up that I think are worth mentioning.

The system seams to work great when I am driving around town or the truck is parked. I have ask numerous different people I talk to on the phone how I sound and for the most part their response is something like "it sounds like I am on a speaker phone, but I have no trouble hearing or understanding you."

however, I run into problems when I am on the free going 65+ mph, or my heater/AC is on high. From what people on the receiving end of my calls have told me is that they hear a lot of noise which over powers my voice.

Then I came across this TSB on the microphone volume.


I followed the instructions on how to adjust the microphone volume. Unfortunately, the procedure is not as simple as pressing a nub and browsing through a settings menu. It involves turning the ignition on and off so one could not adjust the volume while driving down the road with someone on the other side giving feedback. So anyways that is where I am at now. I will be playing with the volume adjustment to hopefully find an optimal configuration. I will post it when/if I do.

 

Ok Guys...

So I've been reading through every thread I can find, trying to make sense of all the work you guys have done, but unfortunately you all are on a much higher plane of understanding when it comes to electronics than I'll ever claim to be, so I'll try to keep this simple.

My goal is to install the OEM BT steering wheel switches on my 05 DC Sport (w/JBL) and upgrade my HU to an 09+ OEM HU. It is my understanding from all I've read that I will have to install an external microphone (I'm considering this kit: PT546-NU160) and an Aux-In Jack (don't want the OEM part because I plan on installing it below the vent on the right side). It will probably be easier for me to use the OEM Aux-In cable so that I can plug directly into the back of the radio.

As I said, I'm not that sharp when it comes to electronics (I'm more of a plug and play kind of guy).
What is the best/simplest way to accomplish what I'm trying to do?

I've looked at all the wiring diagrams but I don't get most of it. I've read that I will need to splice/connect the speed sensor wire to the amplifier behind the passenger rear seat and then splice/connect the BT voice wires.

Does that mean I need to run 4 cables from behind the glove box all the way back there?

Sorry for the long winded message, but any help would be very much appreciated!