What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

floodedkiwi · Jan 21, 2019

AStinkyBumb said: ↑

DCLBs should have come lifted 2 inches from the factory, they look so much better with a few more inches to them!
Click to expand...

I think the Baja's did...

Mully · Jan 21, 2019

After the CMC, wheels, tires, BFH to pinch weld and trimming over the past few days, today I detailed it. Check out that paint, like glass.

Rick_Taco · Jan 21, 2019

crashnburn80 said: ↑

The truck has had slow starter turn over when starting the last few days. It is a 2015 that I purchased new at the end of March, just under 4yrs old. Checked the battery voltage with the truck off and it read 12.8v, running it was 14.3v. Figured it could be corrosion on the terminals. Sure enough Toyota’s split/open terminal design on the positive terminal had some corrosion on the inside, but didn’t seem like enough to be problematic. To be thurough I cleaned the terminals using battery terminal cleaner and copper pipe welding wire brushes.

Then I sprayed it wit’s a sealer to prevent further corrosion.

And afterward it was still slow to start.

I used my automotive battery charger and tried charging the battery. Using the 2A trickle charge, the battery was taking in near 3A, put it on 10A fast charge and it would take in 7A. The battery if working and charged properly it shouldn't take much of a charge and the charger should shut off rather quickly with the 'charge complete' light on. Switched the charger over to 55A start boost, and the truck fired up like new. I came to recognize the truck would fire up ok if it had just been run for a while but any amount of sitting and it was pretty questionable if it would start. Disappointed the OEM battery didn’t even make 4 years.

I subscribe to always upgrade if possible rather than replace.

In the mid-2000s I ran an Optima Yellow Top to support my Warn M8000 winch on my TJ Wrangler Rubicon. The battery was a champ, I put it through a lot and it always came back for more. I kept that battery for almost 10 years and moved it across multiple vehicles before selling it with my 2003 Tacoma. In 2009 Optima production was moved from the USA to Mexico, and quality tanked. The batteries no longer last, and are a shadow of what they once were. So I needed to find a new go-to ultra high quality battery.

Enter Northstar.
If you like overbuilt, this is the battery. Dual purpose/deep cycle non-spillable. Northstar spec'd expected life, 12+ years and made in the USA. And it has terminals that will not corrode. Tacomas with a tow package take a type 27F battery, non-tow package uses a slightly smaller battery. Comparing specs of the 27F Northstar to the Optima Yellow Top:
OEM: 710 CCA, 165min RC
Yellowtop: 1075 CA, 830 CCA, 140min RC
Northstar: 1750 CA, 930 CCA, 195min RC

More Northstar 27F specs here. And more info on Northstar batteries here.

Since I needed the battery ASAP as I was sure my truck was going to leave me stranded as the starting had gotten to the point the truck barely turned over, I needed a place that carried these locally so I could install it today. Batteries + Bulbs stores stock these batteries, and if you buy online and pickup in store there is a 10% off coupon, plus they have a $30 mail in rebate, actually making it one of the cheapest places to get these batteries. The battery from Batteries + Bulbs has a blue top, and is labeled as X2Power, but right on the front of the battery says Northstar.

Batteries + Bulbs Northstar 27F link:
https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27fagmdp

The battery clamp won't fit with the battery handle down, so I had to go through the handle to secure it. I might have to get one of those fancy TRD tie downs. The difference after installing the battery is immediately noticeable. The truck turns over much faster than when the stock battery was in there and in good health. The battery comes with a 5 year replacement warranty.

Click to expand...

I've had my eye on the Northstar 27F pretty much since I bought my truck a year ago. I dug into battery's at that point because from what I can tell, my 13's battery is the stock one. Everything I could find pointed to NorthStar being the most reliable product out there, so it always makes me feel better when a fellow researcher like yourself comes to the same conclusion.

I have seen a few members say their stock battery went without warning, but in all my years and all my vehicles; I have always had at least 1 slow start before a battery completely gives out. I kind of thought that might be this morning since it was -1 when I left for work, but still going strong. Anyway, I am sure you will let TW know if you have any issues out of the 27F. Just like I will let everyone here know when I finally have to pull the trigger on mine.

Thanks TW. I love my Taco!!

steveo27 · Jan 21, 2019

Ordered new alignment cams/hardware.

DVS4.0 · Jan 21, 2019

ChadsPride said: ↑

New to me bed rack yesterday

Click to expand...

That one sharp ass truck. props!

ChadsPride · Jan 21, 2019

DVS4.0 said: ↑

That one sharp ass truck. props!
Click to expand...

Thank you so much! She's my pride and joy

basically_stock_ · Jan 21, 2019

crashnburn80 said: ↑

The truck has had slow starter turn over when starting the last few days. It is a 2015 that I purchased new at the end of March, just under 4yrs old. Checked the battery voltage with the truck off and it read 12.8v, running it was 14.3v. Figured it could be corrosion on the terminals. Sure enough Toyota’s split/open terminal design on the positive terminal had some corrosion on the inside, but didn’t seem like enough to be problematic. To be thurough I cleaned the terminals using battery terminal cleaner and copper pipe welding wire brushes.

Then I sprayed it wit’s a sealer to prevent further corrosion.

And afterward it was still slow to start.

I used my automotive battery charger and tried charging the battery. Using the 2A trickle charge, the battery was taking in near 3A, put it on 10A fast charge and it would take in 7A. The battery if working and charged properly it shouldn't take much of a charge and the charger should shut off rather quickly with the 'charge complete' light on. Switched the charger over to 55A start boost, and the truck fired up like new. I came to recognize the truck would fire up ok if it had just been run for a while but any amount of sitting and it was pretty questionable if it would start. Disappointed the OEM battery didn’t even make 4 years.

I subscribe to always upgrade if possible rather than replace.

In the mid-2000s I ran an Optima Yellow Top to support my Warn M8000 winch on my TJ Wrangler Rubicon. The battery was a champ, I put it through a lot and it always came back for more. I kept that battery for almost 10 years and moved it across multiple vehicles before selling it with my 2003 Tacoma. In 2009 Optima production was moved from the USA to Mexico, and quality tanked. The batteries no longer last, and are a shadow of what they once were. So I needed to find a new go-to ultra high quality battery.

Enter Northstar.
If you like overbuilt, this is the battery. Dual purpose/deep cycle non-spillable. Northstar spec'd expected life, 12+ years and made in the USA. And it has terminals that will not corrode. Tacomas with a tow package take a type 27F battery, non-tow package uses a slightly smaller battery. Comparing specs of the 27F Northstar to the Optima Yellow Top:
OEM: 710 CCA, 165min RC
Yellowtop: 1075 CA, 830 CCA, 140min RC
Northstar: 1750 CA, 930 CCA, 195min RC

More Northstar 27F specs here. And more info on Northstar batteries here.

Since I needed the battery ASAP as I was sure my truck was going to leave me stranded as the starting had gotten to the point the truck barely turned over, I needed a place that carried these locally so I could install it today. Batteries + Bulbs stores stock these batteries, and if you buy online and pickup in store there is a 10% off coupon, plus they have a $30 mail in rebate, actually making it one of the cheapest places to get these batteries. The battery from Batteries + Bulbs has a blue top, and is labeled as X2Power, but right on the front of the battery says Northstar.

Batteries + Bulbs Northstar 27F link:
https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27fagmdp

The battery clamp won't fit with the battery handle down, so I had to go through the handle to secure it. I might have to get one of those fancy TRD tie downs. The difference after installing the battery is immediately noticeable. The truck turns over much faster than when the stock battery was in there and in good health. The battery comes with a 5 year replacement warranty.

Click to expand...

Im getting to the point of probably nedding anew battery. Did you ever look into a group 31 size battery?

basically_stock_ · Jan 21, 2019

Washed my truck the other day, saw a good photo op

singletrack_ftw · Jan 21, 2019

Rolled 135k. Sold my 2 ton harbor freight jack to a homie and bought this 3 ton jack. Then I took a picture because she looked so good.

crashnburn80 · Jan 21, 2019

crashnburn80 said: ↑

The truck has had slow starter turn over when starting the last few days. It is a 2015 that I purchased new at the end of March, just under 4yrs old. Checked the battery voltage with the truck off and it read 12.8v, running it was 14.3v. Figured it could be corrosion on the terminals. Sure enough Toyota’s split/open terminal design on the positive terminal had some corrosion on the inside, but didn’t seem like enough to be problematic. To be thurough I cleaned the terminals using battery terminal cleaner and copper pipe welding wire brushes.

Then I sprayed it wit’s a sealer to prevent further corrosion.

And afterward it was still slow to start.

I used my automotive battery charger and tried charging the battery. Using the 2A trickle charge, the battery was taking in near 3A, put it on 10A fast charge and it would take in 7A. The battery if working and charged properly it shouldn't take much of a charge and the charger should shut off rather quickly with the 'charge complete' light on. Switched the charger over to 55A start boost, and the truck fired up like new. I came to recognize the truck would fire up ok if it had just been run for a while but any amount of sitting and it was pretty questionable if it would start. Disappointed the OEM battery didn’t even make 4 years.

I subscribe to always upgrade if possible rather than replace.

In the mid-2000s I ran an Optima Yellow Top to support my Warn M8000 winch on my TJ Wrangler Rubicon. The battery was a champ, I put it through a lot and it always came back for more. I kept that battery for almost 10 years and moved it across multiple vehicles before selling it with my 2003 Tacoma. In 2009 Optima production was moved from the USA to Mexico, and quality tanked. The batteries no longer last, and are a shadow of what they once were. So I needed to find a new go-to ultra high quality battery.

Enter Northstar.
If you like overbuilt, this is the battery. Dual purpose/deep cycle non-spillable. Northstar spec'd expected life, 12+ years and made in the USA. And it has terminals that will not corrode. Tacomas with a tow package take a type 27F battery, non-tow package uses a slightly smaller battery. Comparing specs of the 27F Northstar to the Optima Yellow Top:
OEM: 710 CCA, 165min RC
Yellowtop: 1075 CA, 830 CCA, 140min RC
Northstar: 1750 CA, 930 CCA, 195min RC

More Northstar 27F specs here. And more info on Northstar batteries here.

Since I needed the battery ASAP as I was sure my truck was going to leave me stranded as the starting had gotten to the point the truck barely turned over, I needed a place that carried these locally so I could install it today. Batteries + Bulbs stores stock these batteries, and if you buy online and pickup in store there is a 10% off coupon, plus they have a $30 mail in rebate, actually making it one of the cheapest places to get these batteries. The battery from Batteries + Bulbs has a blue top, and is labeled as X2Power, but right on the front of the battery says Northstar.

Batteries + Bulbs Northstar 27F link:
https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27fagmdp

The battery clamp won't fit with the battery handle down, so I had to go through the handle to secure it. I might have to get one of those fancy TRD tie downs. The difference after installing the battery is immediately noticeable. The truck turns over much faster than when the stock battery was in there and in good health. The battery comes with a 5 year replacement warranty.

Click to expand...

MolonLabeTaco said: ↑

Good info!
No need to extend any factory wiring to get this battery to fit?
Click to expand...

The battery is the 27F stock size, no wire extensions needed. It is just a hair taller and the battery handle a little thicker making the backside clamp not work without going through the handle sincethe back clamp is not adjustable.

singletrack_ftw · Jan 21, 2019

crashnburn80 said: ↑

The truck has had slow starter turn over when starting the last few days. It is a 2015 that I purchased new at the end of March, just under 4yrs old. Checked the battery voltage with the truck off and it read 12.8v, running it was 14.3v. Figured it could be corrosion on the terminals. Sure enough Toyota’s split/open terminal design on the positive terminal had some corrosion on the inside, but didn’t seem like enough to be problematic. To be thurough I cleaned the terminals using battery terminal cleaner and copper pipe welding wire brushes.

Then I sprayed it wit’s a sealer to prevent further corrosion.

And afterward it was still slow to start.

I used my automotive battery charger and tried charging the battery. Using the 2A trickle charge, the battery was taking in near 3A, put it on 10A fast charge and it would take in 7A. The battery if working and charged properly it shouldn't take much of a charge and the charger should shut off rather quickly with the 'charge complete' light on. Switched the charger over to 55A start boost, and the truck fired up like new. I came to recognize the truck would fire up ok if it had just been run for a while but any amount of sitting and it was pretty questionable if it would start. Disappointed the OEM battery didn’t even make 4 years.

I subscribe to always upgrade if possible rather than replace.

In the mid-2000s I ran an Optima Yellow Top to support my Warn M8000 winch on my TJ Wrangler Rubicon. The battery was a champ, I put it through a lot and it always came back for more. I kept that battery for almost 10 years and moved it across multiple vehicles before selling it with my 2003 Tacoma. In 2009 Optima production was moved from the USA to Mexico, and quality tanked. The batteries no longer last, and are a shadow of what they once were. So I needed to find a new go-to ultra high quality battery.

Enter Northstar.
If you like overbuilt, this is the battery. Dual purpose/deep cycle non-spillable. Tacomas with a tow package take a type 27F battery, non-tow package uses a slightly smaller battery. Comparing specs of the 27F Northstar to the Optima Yellow Top:
Yellowtop: 1075 CA, 830 CCA
Northstar: 1750 CA, 930 CCA

Northstar spec'd expected life, 12+ years.

The battery is the 27F stock size, no wire extensions needed. It is just a hair taller and the battery handle a little thicker making the backside clamp not work without going through the handle since the back clamp is not adjustable.
Click to expand...

Price?

austin2009 · Jan 21, 2019

Got around to installing the new UCA’s and shocks!

Casper66 · Jan 21, 2019

singletrack_ftw said: ↑

Rolled 135k. Sold my 2 ton harbor freight jack to a homie and bought this 3 ton jack. Then I took a picture because she looked so good.

Click to expand...

Truck looks great and good deal on the jack! Hows the spare tire holder working out?

singletrack_ftw · Jan 21, 2019

Casper66 said: ↑

Truck looks great and good deal on the jack! Hows the spare tire holder working out?
Click to expand...

I wheeled pretty hard the other night and only had to tighten the ratchet mechanism once (it wasn’t super tight to begin with). Absolutely no issues. Even bombed some well groomed spillway dirt trails at 50mph.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-bed-mount-spare-tire-bottle-jack-all-in-one.588170/

crashnburn80 · Jan 21, 2019

basically_stock_ said: ↑

Im getting to the point of probably nedding anew battery. Did you ever look into a group 31 size battery?
Click to expand...

I did not, admittedly I was a bit rushed. I didn’t want one any wider than stock as changing the headlight bulbs is already a PITA, so I did not look into other sizes. But it looks like group 31 is actually the same width just 0.5” taller and 0.5” longer with about 20% more amps, 7 more lbs and $30-50 more. Could be a worthwhile option for winching or other heavy use applications.

crashnburn80 · Jan 21, 2019

singletrack_ftw said: ↑

Price?
Click to expand...

About $294 before tax if you use the 10% off coupon code for buy online and pickup in store option at Batteries + Bulbs, and then the $30 mail in rebate.
https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27fagmdp

Cheaper than ordering directly:
https://www.northstarbattery.com/product/nsb-agm27f

DesertDunes · Jan 21, 2019

Got rid of the old bumper (got 3 small scratches from being hit by company truck so I got a $1k insurance check)

And got the cheap ebay bumper, cheap Amazon 4" fogs and a 9500 smittybilt winch fo free

If anyone wants the hidden bumper LED mounts and my LED bar then DM me. Both are in the rafters of my garage at the moment. It's a cheap amazon light bar that I took apart and installed an amber LED strip inside that I had wired to my fogs so if you had the fog light anytime mod then they would be back-lit when the fogs were on. looked bad-ass and got lots of compliments

AStinkyBumb · Jan 21, 2019

kgarrett11 said: ↑

Does anyone have any good write ups/builds of an AUX fuse panel/bracket. I've found a few threads but they all seem to be like 6 years old with members that aren't active anymore. I have too many accessories hooked up to the battery and need to start studying this. I have never ran or installed one before.
Click to expand...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/show-off-your-aux-fuse-panels.308677/
This thread has 35 pages of great (recent) posts and ideas.

DarthPow said: ↑

Caution, Opinions ahead:

A lift and bigger tires with a slightly wider stance is practically required on the DCLBs to me. They look so weird on stock wheels and suspension. But once a 2-3" lift, something around 265/70s, and 0 offset wheel or a spacer is added, I think its the best looking of the different configurations.
Click to expand...

Also I assumed the bigger tires and wider wheels were an automatic with a lift. No one should skip leg day

crashnburn80 said: ↑

The truck has had slow starter turn over when starting the last few days. It is a 2015 that I purchased new at the end of March, just under 4yrs old. Checked the battery voltage with the truck off and it read 12.8v, running it was 14.3v. Figured it could be corrosion on the terminals. Sure enough Toyota’s split/open terminal design on the positive terminal had some corrosion on the inside, but didn’t seem like enough to be problematic. To be thurough I cleaned the terminals using battery terminal cleaner and copper pipe welding wire brushes.

Then I sprayed it wit’s a sealer to prevent further corrosion.

And afterward it was still slow to start.

I used my automotive battery charger and tried charging the battery. Using the 2A trickle charge, the battery was taking in near 3A, put it on 10A fast charge and it would take in 7A. The battery if working and charged properly it shouldn't take much of a charge and the charger should shut off rather quickly with the 'charge complete' light on. Switched the charger over to 55A start boost, and the truck fired up like new. I came to recognize the truck would fire up ok if it had just been run for a while but any amount of sitting and it was pretty questionable if it would start. Disappointed the OEM battery didn’t even make 4 years.

I subscribe to always upgrade if possible rather than replace.

In the mid-2000s I ran an Optima Yellow Top to support my Warn M8000 winch on my TJ Wrangler Rubicon. The battery was a champ, I put it through a lot and it always came back for more. I kept that battery for almost 10 years and moved it across multiple vehicles before selling it with my 2003 Tacoma. In 2009 Optima production was moved from the USA to Mexico, and quality tanked. The batteries no longer last, and are a shadow of what they once were. So I needed to find a new go-to ultra high quality battery.

Click to expand...

Any good reads on how to tell if a battery is going bad? My 2013 is showing signs I noticed in an old vehicle that had a going battery but I want to be sure before I eat the cost before I get stranded.
I noticed the other day the headlights dim flickered a bit when traction control kicked on in the snow, voltmeter shows high 12s before start, high 13s low 14s when running.

DarthPow · Jan 21, 2019

AStinkyBumb said: ↑

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/show-off-your-aux-fuse-panels.308677/
Also I assumed the bigger tires and wider wheels were an automatic with a lift. No one should skip leg day
Click to expand...

you would think, but I see plenty of lifts without bigger tires. Maybe its just because I live in LA, where people just lift their trucks for looks. Though I would guess most people probably lift first, then save up the rest of the money for the bigger wheels later. It can get expensive doing both at the same time.

crashnburn80 · Jan 21, 2019

AStinkyBumb said: ↑

Any good reads on how to tell if a battery is going bad? My 2013 is showing signs I noticed in an old vehicle that had a going battery but I want to be sure before I eat the cost before I get stranded.
I noticed the other day the headlights dim flickered a bit when traction control kicked on in the snow, voltmeter shows high 12s before start, high 13s low 14s when running.
Click to expand...

I did not do this, but it would have been a good idea. If you have a multi-meter, you can follow the steps here:
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/check-a-car-battery

Most autoparts stores will also have equipment to test your battery and charging system, and will do so for free.

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