Ripcord's Spruce Mica Build

|March 9, 2019|

Finally some decent headlights!


Projector Headlights:

Outworld has a great article on why projector headlights are really the only acceptable way to upgrade your headlights.

http://outworldhq.com/headlight-psa/

The TLDR of the article is that any time you are still using the headlight reflector bowl, light is scattered (mostly at other drivers in front of you). So by just putting a brighter bulb in there, you are only scattering more light at them. A projector is an HID halogen lens that emits light in a precisely controlled manner. Projectors have very sharp light cutoffs, as you will see in the below images, that prevent light from reaching oncoming drivers and blinding them.


The actual work of retrofitting the projectors into the housings can be challenging for some, so companies like SRQ Fabrications do retrofits for people as well as serve as a vendor for the raw projector parts

https://www.srqfabrications.com/


Parts:
OEM Headlights
Morimoto mini D2S Projectors w/ Panamera shrouds
Morimoto Ballasts
Morimoto Wiring kit


Install Tools:
Phillips screwdriver
Wiring tools

Time:
It takes a few hours and the use of your oven to do the actual retrofit, but you can pay for this to be done by companies like SRQ. The actual install of completed lights takes half an hour.

I started with some OEM BHLM (Black HeadLight Mod) headlights. These are the style that comes in later model 2nd gen TRD Pro models.




SRQ did the hard work, the actual retrofit. They came back with the Morimoto stuff all installed and ready to bolt on to the truck.




The new style morimoto ballasts.




Removing the OEM headlights is not too bad, the only connection you can’t readily see is the one behind the filler panel under the headlight.




Installed!




The next thing you need to do is aim the headlights. What you want to do is find a flat place to park (parking garage is ideal).

• Place your truck 25ft from a wall.
• Measure the height of the center of the projector from the ground, 42” for me.
• Use masking tape to mark this same height on the wall.
• Adjust your headlights to be even with or below this line, below is best to avoid blinding oncoming drivers.

Before:




This 8mm hex head is how the height is adjusted.




Passenger side up, you can see how tilted it was.




Finished, here is how your cutoff should look by the end of the aiming process.

 

|March 23, 2019|

Everytime I re-gear a truck, I say I should have done it sooner… the same thing applies here!


4.56 Gears:

Let me walk you through the reasons I am going with 4.56:1 gear ratio instead of other options such as 4.88:1.

1)
I want to keep the truck highway friendly still. While I do frequently drive up into the mountains, I plan to do some pretty long distance trips in the future as well. Needs to be a balance.
2)
Transmission gear ratios: I had 4.88 axle gears with 35’s on my ‘02 4runner with the A340 4-speed auto transmission and was pretty happy with that balance. Looking at This chart from Marlin Crawler, you can see the difference between the Tacoma’s A750F 5-speed auto and my old 4Runner’s A340, both are towards the bottom of the list.
For example, note how the Tacoma’s 1st gear is much shorter (numerically higher) than the ‘02 4Runner’s and how even with only 4 gears the 4Runner had a taller top gear (numerically lower) than the Tacoma. So given those points it makes sense that a slightly taller axle gear than I had in the 4Runner, like 4.56, would work well in the Tacoma with its A750F transmission.
(note: for similar reasons, mostly having to do with its 2 overdrive gears, the 3rd Gen Tacoma is recommended to have 5.29 gears with 35s)
3)
As a test, the % difference between 4th & 5th on the 5-speed auto transmission is very similar to the % difference between 4.88 and stock 3.73 gears. So with stock gears on the highway in 5th gear, you can downshift to 4th and that will simulate your RPMs at that speed with 4.88s in 5th gear. I deemed that RPM to be unreasonably high for long highway drives. So by going with 4.56 gears I will be at a lower RPM than 4.88s while still being higher than I would be with stock gears.
4)
Compare the stock effective final drive ratio (meaning the overall ratio considering both the tire diameter and the gears) to the effective ratio with the potential new gear ratios on the larger tires. Stock is 3.73 gears on 31" tires, 3.73/31 = 0.1203 is the stock effective ratio.
This same calculation on 4.56 and 35s is 0.1303 (since this number is higher than stock, it is “over geared”) and on 4.88 with 35s it is 0.1394which is even more over geared. Over gearing is not necessarily bad, it can help compensate for added weight, but gearing is a balance between low end power and high speed cruising ability. Too much in one direction hurts the ability to do the other (see point #3).
5)
I am putting a lot of effort into keeping weight down. Aluminium, basic bumpers, Light wheels/tires, less useless crap, etc; which will negate the need for excessively short gears.


Parts / Retail Cost:
I got complete assembled differentials from East Coast Gear Supply, ECGS website. You send them your old diffs as cores.

$740 - ECGS complete assembled 3rd member (w/ solid spacer)
$740 - ECGS complete assembled front clamshell (w/ solid spacer, CV Bushing)


Tools:
Socket/wrench set
10 & 12mm Allen sockets
E14 interior Torx socket
Axle nut socket (35mm)
Dead blow mallet
Floor jack & Stands


Time:
7 hours to tires on the ground. Depending on if you are getting pre-built differentials like I did or having your diffs setup at a local shop. Your install time will vary, pre-built diffs like what I got are the easiest because it is just a simple remove & install. The truck was back on the road in less than a day.


There are already some really great procedure threads on how to remove/install the diffs on these trucks. So the rest of this post will just be various pictures during the process. Rear E-Locker Differential Removal
Torque Specs





The only part that the ECGS guide linked above does not cover is what you do with the front diff when you get it out. There are some parts you have to swap over from your old one to the new one. Part such as the ADD Tube (pictured here) and all the mounting legs.






If the diff you received does not come with this intermediate shaft, you will need to take the one from your diff. It is held in the diff the same way as the CV axles are, with the snap ring. I found the best way to remove it has been to snake a long flat screwdriver from behind and hit it.




New front diff assembled with swapped over parts, used Toyota Orange FIPG (Formed in place gasket) to seal them.




Lifting the front diff back into place is always fun.




CVs back in




On to the rear:




E-locker motor out




New hotness




Rear diff ready to go in, with Toyota orange FIPG.




That was the last picture I got during install.

===============================================


Final verdict:
It is GREAT! I am very happy that I went with this ratio. The truck is very streetable now and still comfortable on the highway.

 

I will have some BIG updates to post in the next week or two regarding the camper I have been building.

 

Followed your build here after seeing the 4Runner builds. Always great work

 

The updates are awesome! Do you know the name of the shroud on the projectors, and how do you like them at night?

 

Thanks! those were fun trucks

Thanks! Panamera shroud was what it was

 

Just spent a few days reading this and your previous 4Runner threads
Your attention to detail is so good and your work is very admirable!
Have definitely gave me some motivation for mine!
+1 on color and FN Wheels, those dudes have got it going on

 

Oh man that's a lot of reading! Glad you found it useful at least, thanks for the compliments!

 

I've been following your rig on IG for a while and I just now found this thread. It's awesome reading through it and seeing exactly how much work has been put into this badass truck. Not to mention the spruce mica color to boot. Wish I had the funds and the know how to build up my truck anywhere close to this! Subbed

 

Thanks for following! Its been a fun process so far.

 

Looking forward to knowing what material you used and where you got the material.

 

Can't wait for the camper writeup. Will be building a RTT for my 99 runner and awaiting your input/experiences on your build before I pull the trigger on parts.

 

Do you know if srq offers blacking out the housing if headlight is provided? Also did you keep the chrome backing for functionality or to maintain a more stock look?

 

This is amazing but it makes me nervous to do. I need a locker.

 

They can definitely paint housings, not sure what the added cost would be for that though. I tried to keep it relatively stock looking, yeah.

So worth it.

 

Had the same problem. Those fuckers had nuts and all sorts of things stored up in there. They chewed up the harness in multiple areas. Just sucks that $100 dollars in parts would run a couple grand at the dealer. Definitely something I'd rather do myself but time wasn't on my side this time. After deductible and getting paid for rental, I came out on top. I just had to make sure they did not take the heads off. Not something I wanted done for some BS sub harness.

 

Went with the same gearing. Even with the 36's, I like them. With the amount of highway driving I do, it was the better option. On my last totaled truck, it had Nitro 4.56s with factory elocker that I was trying to give away to anyone willing to come over and swap out the 3rd member with their factory one before letting the insurance take it away. No takers. Oh well.

 

Insurance can be pretty useful sometime! Even doing it myself was a decent amount of work.

4.56 definitely seemed to be the consensus best option. I am really happy I went with it!

 

This is awesome! Would you still go for the 4.56’s if you weren’t trying so hard to stay light? Like if you had steel bumpers etc...