Tips for building my 1995 Toyota Tacoma 5 speed manual 4x4

That's all in the eyes of the beholder. I happen to like my Tacoma seats... mine are also in a 2004, and only have like 125k miles, though.

 

Likely not. You might be okay on the road, but I wouldn't want to take it off road with shocks (not struts) that are too short.

Free doesn't mean good. That's a spacer lift kit, and IMO 2" is too much to run a spacer lift in the front. You run the risk of bottoming out your shocks before you hit the bumpstops (destroying your shocks) unless you extend your bumpstops. Then you just limited the overall travel of the front suspension.

If you're going to be replacing the factory shocks anyway, just get a set of the 5100's. For about $400 you can get a full set of 5100s, and a longer shackle in the rear, or an add-a-leaf. RE-use your factory coil (for now), then when you get a little more cash, get some OME coils and set the 5100s back to the "stock height" (let the coil do the lifting).

To answer your older question about a diff drop, I'd say yes, go ahead and get one if you're at or above 2.5" of front lift. They cost as little as $20, but I suggest getting one that includes skid plate spacers for a few bucks more unless you want to do a little fabricating to get your skid plate to fit.

 

I do not plan to take it off road. I have a buddy that did a 3" f 2" r leveling kit on his 2014 Tacoma 2wd with factory struts and he seems to have 0 issues daily driving which is what I plan to do with mine. My buddy has a shop that can get me brand new factory replacement shocks for 150.00 bucks which is why I asked said question.

Most threads I seen that ask that question get the same response "go with 5100's" my funds are tight as mentioned. This would only be something ill run till the shocks go bad (hopefully at least a year) after that I should have more than enough funds for 5100's with OME springs and an aal in the rear.

This is actually my last needed component before I begin body work and paint. Interior is complete, suspension has been re done (all ball joints have been replaced, new steering rack bushings, new inner and outter tie rods, Sway/ Stabilizer Bar Links Set , new steering rack boots).

 

That's honestly too high for a spacer lift, IMO. 2" is pushing it. You can still bottom out suspension on a speed bump, pot hole, etc. For a 3" lift, that's putting the shock 1.5" lower, and that'd be fine as long as the shock has 1.5" *extra* travel in the stock position, and I just don't see that being the case.

So your plan is to spend $150 now on factory replacement shocks, then in maybe a year spend $400 on 5100s? Just save up the cash and do it once. Buy once, cry once...

If your current shocks are completely blown and undriveable, but get the cheapest crap you can get (probably this) that will limp you along until you can save up the $400. But if it's still driveable and just maybe not "ideal" just wait until you can afford to get everything at once.

 

Update:

So far I have accumulated almost all the parts I need to start rebuilding the suspension. I went with a budgeted lift. I bought Rough Country N3 shocks for the front and rear. The fronts are lifted so no need for spacers. Fronts are supposed to get me to 2.5 in, for the rear I plan to use a 2" block lift from from supreme suspension. I bought new ball joints (upper and lower), tie rod setup with boots, steering rack bushings, sway bar end links. I also got a diff drop and a proportioning valve relocation bracket.

Question: My wheel setup as previously mentioned are Texas edition wheels from a 3rd gen taco. I plan to buy 285 70 17 tires. Does anyone know if this will work with the mentioned lift? A lot of cutting necessary? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Another update for the rest of the parts accumulated. For the interior I bought brand new carpet. I recently shampooed my seats, because after the $500.00-$1000.00 buck quotes I received to get my front seats reupholstered I decided to go with seat covers. My buddy has RealSeatCovers on his taco that fit super snug and nice so I went with that route. I bought some memory foam to try to make the seats as comfy as possible.

I bought every part I need to get the leaky valve cover fixed. Went with all oem units thanks to this very helpful thread : https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ping-out-valve-cover-gaskets-pictures.469596/

And last but not least I bought a complete ac unit. My trucks ac has not worked since my dad bought it in 2007. Here is the kit I went with: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9821432&jsn=901
Does anyone have any comments on this kit? ^^^^ Any members with prior experience running this maybe?

 

Question: My wheel setup as previously mentioned are Texas edition wheels from a 3rd gen taco. I plan to buy 285 70 17 tires. Does anyone know if this will work with the mentioned lift? A lot of cutting necessary? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have looked through many threads and not much luck. Seen a lot of 3+ inch lifts with said tire size.

 

There will be modification involved. Cutting/ trimming of fender liners plus a proper alignment is crucial. Aftermarket upper control arms might be necessary to achieve good alignment. A lot of guys (including myself) do a cab mount chop to help clear the tires. Also something to consider

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...her-toyota-wheels-on-my-1st-gen-thread.563416

You will most definetly need spacers with that wheel setup. Backspacing is almost an inch closer in then your stock wheels.

 

Never heard of a 1st genner slicing up a cab mount. Ours are further back. We usually just have to beat the mess out of the pinch welds.

 

Yes I have 1.5 inch spacers on hand. Or do you suggest I go higher? I come from the 240sx world so I do not fret when it comes to spacers. Been running all kinds of spacers for 10+ years. I see a lot of negative views towards spacers in the tacoma world for some reason.

 

I figured I had to cut the liners, but do you think I have to chop any metal? towards the wall.

 

Gotcha

I'm not a first gen guy but based on what @Blue92 said you shouldn't require a CMC. Not sure if pinch weld mods will be required for 285's

 

Probably not. You only really need to start tubbing the body with 35's.

 

So let me get this straight, you're saying I can fit 33's then? If I am planning on 285's should I just go for it?

 

There are TONS of people on 33's with a mild lift (~2-3") and minor trimming of the fender liners and the pinch weld mod. The 2nd gen guys usually have to chop the body mounts, but ours are set back farther and don't interfere.

1.5" wheel spacers aren't ideal (better to start with proper backspaced wheels), but that should help compensate for the lower BS of the 3rd gen wheels.

 

Thanks my man I appreciate your help. I feel confident ordering tires now, and if they don't fit then I'll make them fit!

 

anything is possible with enough and

 

UPDATE: PICS SHALL BE POSTED SOON

Waiting on a new front and rear bumper setup, Grille, corner lights, bumper lights, new taillights, and a new windshield to come in.

This weekend I will dedicate time to remove old carpet, install new black carpet and install the door lock popper for key-less entry along with an alarm.

AC is finally fixed. What a pain in the ass that was.

Lift is on along with all new suspension parts. Rides awesome. Front lifted shocks make a huge improvement over my buddy's taco (same lift) but his has the front bolt on spacer lift that came with the cheaper Rough country lift.

I ordered tires. 285 70 17 Achilles M/t tires. Super aggressive looking and are not loud (according to all the reviews I read. We shall see soon). Tires should be in today.

Question: Tacoma Texas edition wheels are bore size 106mm correct? ; Since my Tacoma has the locking hubs, does anyone know what the bore size is? I cannot find much info on it. Need to know so I can get the correct spacers/ hubcentric rings. Any and all help as always is greatly appreciated!

 

I finally have some pictures for you all!

Here are my tires I purchased from Walmart.com . I payed about 650.00 for all 4 shipped which I thought was amazing. As previously mentioned. I am a big fan of Achilles. I have ran them on my 240sx and my daily driver for years. I have stretched them, ran a bunch of camber etc etc, these tires can take whatever you throw at them. I just installed a set of Achilles ATR Sport II on my fiances new accord and again they ride great in all weather.

As for road noise on these Achilles Desert Hawk X-M/T's you will all be surprised that they are not very loud at all when compared to my buddy's fuel m/t tires and another whom has Toyo M/t's. We could barely talk in their cabins. So far I have about 500 miles on them, I seem to be getting around 15 mpgs while driving slow (Fuelly app stats from 3 full fuel ups).

I did not have to do much to fit these bad boys. I installed 1.5' spacers all around, trimmed the front bumper about an inch on both sides, hammered the pinch weld, and worked over the fender liner with a heat gun. No rubbing whatsoever, even when the suspension compresses.

With the 2.5 inch lift up front and 2.5 rear plus these tall tires and 17' wheels the truck is as tall as some lifted 3rd gens around me.