Ken the electrical guy Q n A

Thanks! How's this? I added wires and grounds for the inverters and fuses where I guess they should go. Positive current in red, negative in black, neutral in gray.

I am considering the

$80 KeyLine Iso-Pro140 Dual Battery Isolator 12V | Automatic Battery Disconnect Switch 12V 140 Amp Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) | Car Battery Charger Switch Also for ATV, Boats, RV's, Off-Road Vehicles, by KeyLine Chargers

KeyLine Iso-Pro140 Smart Battery Isolator for its simplicity. Is that a good choice?

Would this design allow me to jump the main battery using the auxiliary battery should the need arise?

 

Hi @Kens04Taco ,

For a 3rd gen tacoma, I am exploring the possibility of increasing the alternator charging voltage through VF Tuner (see link below).

I'm hoping to increase the voltage to the recommended 14.4-14.8 for my AGM battery. Do you see any issue with doing this with the OEM alternator? Would I want to change the duty cycle limits too (also modifiable through VF tuner)?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vf-tuner-for-the-3-5l-tacoma.662948/page-9#post-23245827

 

The fuses need to be as close as possible to the battery. The wire in between the battery and fuse is not protected by the fuse. So we get mount them close to the battery.

That kit is basically a voltage sensitive relay similar to the blue sea.

however I do not see a “jump” feature available. This unit will only connect the batteries when it sees charging voltage. There doesn’t seem to have a link override

 

I’m not completely familiar with the specifications of the factory 3rd gen alt but I would not modify the alternators settings for duty cycle or voltage without knowing the capabilities of my alternator. I’m not the guy that likes to jerk off the Toyota engineers and think that their version everything is always the best. However, they set these parameters for a reason. Changing these settings without knowing if the hardware can handle it could cause premature failure.
Have you thought about getting a HO alternator and one of the voltage step ups from some of the ausie guys?

 

Regarding the voltage step up, it seems like this solution does not work for 3rd gens since voltage is ECU-controlled. Perhaps a HO alternator + VF tuner voltage increase may be the right call here.

 

Yeah I would think that having the abilities to adjust the ECU perimeters to meet a heavy duty alt might be the golden ticket

 

@Kens04Taco

Thanks for your help. I wired things up except for the accessories and checked my work. Switch power works and the locker power switch has to be on for the locker switches to be live. The upper part lights when the switch is turned on and the dash light wires work too, lighting the bottom when the lights are on.

 

He’ll yeah brotha!! Those switches look really clean. Might have to make a change to my switch panel

 

Glad to hear you approve.

Well it looks like I need to pick your brain one more time. I have 4 Rigid Industries scene lights (https://www.rigidindustries.com/led-scene-light-led-scene-light.html) that I’ll be wiring 2 per side and am wondering what size awg wire I should be running. I believe the wires coming off the light are 16awg. Also what size fuse for each set of 2 lights. Thank you!

 

.75A x 1.5 = 1.125 ..... next size up is a 2 amp fuse

16 gauge Is perfect.


You also shouldnt need to relay these your looking at a 2.25 Amp draw most switches can handle this without even feeling it

double check the switch max amperage spec because there are some tiny tiny ones that are like 1 amp

 

Wow, did not get a notification. Here is his instagram, https://www.instagram.com/racewiretech/
Zim

 

sick i love this work. ty

 

@Kens04Taco

This switch is supposed to illuminate the text when the dash lights are on, and the picture when switched on. Is there a way to wire it up so that it is illuminated entirely when the dash lights are on?

 

not based off the document you linked. Sorry bud. Send me a pic of the back of the switch where that socket plugs into

 

It's just 5 unmarked pins in a straight line. I can get over the indicator. Any idea on which way to wire it up? I know black goes to body ground. I'm assuming on an 18 I'm switch negatively?

 

I'm looking to tap into a circuit that is activated when 4 low is engaged.

I am installing a front camera, and instead of having it activated by a manual switch, I want it to come on automatically when 4 low is engaged. I already have the kit to splice in a second camera video feed, I just need to find a circuit to tap into, to activate a relay that powers the camera on and switches the video feed source, instead of a manual switch doing that. Any insights are appreciated.

 

4wd indicator light from the gauge cluster should do the trick.

 

I ask because your prewired switch socket may not give you every possible option of the switch.
The led grounds may be connected internally and that 5th pin that’s not called out in the wiring diagram or there’s other options. There’s a way to test the pins to tell what does what or if you can get any number or marking off the switch we can look it up to see it’s internal workings.

If you want I can walk you through how to find out what that extra pin is for

 

Idk why the listing says light green. I have the same switch in blue, but that listing is now missing, so idk. Here's pictures of the back of the switch as well as some more information on it. Thank you for imparting some wisdom on me.

https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-917ng-12volt-toyota-oem-replacement-fog-lights.html

 

From what I could find.

The top led is paralleled inside of the switch with the switch output. We could wire it so when it’s ON both leds would turn on and then when turned off they both turned off. But with that style switch we can’t have both leds on with the switch in the off position.