Another stupid towing question...

Yes I know how to search; and yes, I’ve read a bunch on TW about this. That said, I’m looking for some specific guidance.

We’re looking for a smaller sized camper trailer and have several that have made the final cut. I’m really curious the thoughts on two specific trailers. We want something to tow around Texas and the occasional longer trip (desert mountains).

1. R-Pod, NoBo, Winnie Hike, etc. single axel in the ~3400 dry weight range.
2. Winnie Micro Minnie 2106DS dual axel in the ~3700 dry weight range.

I have a 2020 TRD OR with: 4.88 gears, 33” skinnies (255/85/16 E), OME suspension (standard rear leafs), and Redarc break controller. Will add a nice hitch with weight distribution and sway control.

I like the idea of the dual axel because I have the ability to carry more weight if needed (like hauling gear to rifle matches) and a friends dual axel flat bed I’ve pulled a few times tows like a dream. Just curious on thoughts about a trailer that is heavier with dual axel, or a few hundred pounds lighter with a single axel. Which way would you lean and why?

Thanks in advance!

 

You’re looking I’m the “ok” weight range. Don’t go more. Even in this range the Tacoma will feel it. But it’s a Toyota so it will do it.
Double axle will give you a little bit more stability and less sway. They just trailer better. But if you find a single axle don’t be afraid of it.
If you really want to go places, go with the smallest trailer you can handle.
I recommend renting one first. Learn while using someone elseS lost depreciation. Try: Rvshare.com or Outdoorsey.com.

 

Actually looking to buy one and also rent as a side-hustle. I wanted a Cricket, but the lady says a bathroom and AC are mandatory. Also, I’m re-geared.

 

We pull the NoBo 16.8 with a pretty much stock 2019 TRD Sport. (Upgraded tires) and it pulls fine. We do have a weight distribution hitch and a Redarc brake controller. By the time we add gear, food, fresh water, fire wood and kayaks, you can feel it going up hills. All the "extras" add up. Our last trip in western PA was @120 miles and I was getting about 9 mpg. I really like the layout of the NoBo.

 

Id be looking at double axle. You will get more stability and less likely to yank your truck sideways when you have a tire blow.

 

^^^This
Much less sway and safer if you get a blowout.

 

I keep going back to the Micro Minnie for that reason. I have a buddy who’s going to let me pull his 4000lb dual axel camper next weekend. I’ll see how it feels with my current setup.

 

Posted a lot about it already but I tow a NoBo 16.5. 2900 lbs dry but we've got dual propane on the tongue and use a WDH and the Tacoma does a pretty great job pulling it. I haven't done any legit mountain passes or anything yet, but although you spend a little time in the higher RPM range, it pulls pretty great.

 

I just picked up a No Bo 19.6. dual axle. ~ 4300# dry. pulled it home 65 mi from dealer with 2/3 tank of water (20+ gal) over some small hills. No issues keeping up 60-70mph but typical crap gas mileage...10mpg

 

These have crap mileage before the trailer #tacomalife

 

Oh dang... I didn’t realize any of the NoBo line was dual axel. Thanks for the tip!

 

I was in the same boat and considered basically the same trailers as you. I ended up with Micro Minnie 1700BH. ~3000lbs unloaded, RedArc controller, Blue Ox WDH.

I towed it home yesterday, ~150 miles down the 15 which has its share of long hills. Even with the single axle, I had zero concerns with the setup. Everything was stable and solid as I could hope for.

I kept it at 55mph (California towing limit) and it was about 2500rpm in 4th and 3500 in 3rd.

Good luck on your search!

 

Those white trucks look so nice with a white camper in tow.

 

I bought a RPOD two years ago after a similar search. The appeal of the dual axle is safety and stability for sure: flat tire, less of an issue; potholes, trailer doesn't drop into it like single axle; and stability too.
Down side if you smoke a tire on either side chances are the second tire will also run over the same debris plus for maintenance on a dually its 2 x the brakes and tires and bearings to service.

The single axle pivots easily to park / reverse into a spot; usually a bit lighter overall weight with single axle.

I was looking at a lightweight Winnebago dually with 6000lbs capacity but dry weight was a low 3000, so no worries about overloading the trailer axle. It was pricey and opted for the single axle RPOD. I have the brake controller and WDH with built in sway. Absolutely no issues with sway, even in wind or with big trucks passing (both directions). I do find with wonky pavement (grooves, ruts) the trailer can sometimes follow those tracks and cause more wobble and I think a dually would handle that a bit better. I just slow down and try to find the "sweet spot" in the lane when I encounter that type of pavement.

For rough forestry/logging roads I take off the WDH as it allows the trailer to bounce around a bit better on the rough pavement with out the mechanical bars forcing it to be level and not sway. Makes for a nice ride overall, but I always run the WDH on the pavement. Again, the dual axle might handle that better (eg potholes)

I would look for a model that fits your needs ands wants, price it out, and then compare a similar model in a dual axle and compare costs. Don't forget to consider the more bells and whistles you add (think dual axle) the higher gross weight will be of the rig, and then you gotta think if the Tacoma is going to then be your issue.

 

This is the along the lines I've been thinking. I'm pretty sure we'll land on a Winnebago Minnie Drop or Forest River R-Pod. I'd rather be lighter than heavier.

Thanks for the thoughtful reply.

 

Is regearing necessary? I have a 2017 TRD OR longbed with a 3" lift, and 285 65 R18 tires with stock gears. We are also looking into buying a single axle trailer with a dry weight of 3K or less. Should I think about putting 4:10 or 4:88 in before we pull the trigger on a new TT?

 

I ran 31" tires on my 2010 without re-gearing. I'm running 33s and re-geared to 4.88s and REALLY like how it runs. Pulls like a beast and holds gears way better at highway speeds. I think one would really notice this if pulling 4000 lbs up hills. When pulling less than 2000lbs, I hardly notice it.

Don't mess with 4.10s; go 4.88 and if you want a bit more top-end, then move to a larger tire size. Take a look at the 4.88 mega thread... lots of good info there. - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-4-88-mega-thread.511967/

 

I'm in he same boat and need some help. Getting all kinds of mixed answers from RV dealers and have tried to find answer in the forums but having difficulty making sense of it all.

What I have: 2014 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab 2.7L 4 Cylinder. This model does not have a factory tow package and max tow is rated at 3,500. I had a 5,000 pound Pro hitch installed to pull our small pop-up camper. It does not have a brake controller installed as my current trailer does not have brakes.

What we want to Pull: GeoPro 15TB. Specs: 2483 dry weight, 366 tongue weight. We estimate gear/supplies for our typical trip to be 500 lbs spread between the trailer and truck bed. We will not pull loaded with water. Assume tanks empty for purpose of towing

It is just my wife and I. We live and camp in PA and most of our trips are weekends under 3 hours drive time. PA is not the Rockies but we still have plenty of hills.

Is this to much trailer for my Truck? In addition to a brake controller are there other additions i could make that might help, Weight distribution hitch etc.?

Thank you for any assistance you can provide.

Phil & Joanne

 

Automatic or manual? If auto, an aftermarket add-on transmission cooler would be a relatively cheap weekend project. If the trailer has brakes, a controller is well spent money but you’ll likely have to do or pay for the wiring since you weren’t setup from the factory.

With that light of a tongue, a wdh probably isn’t necessary but the combo wdh and sway control units would kill two birds. I’d go for one of the chain style units rather than the heavier tension bars. Anderson for example. They’ll save you a bit of weight.

None of this is absolutely necessary, but does add peace of mind and some performance improvement.