A non-enthusiast's Tacoma build

Allow me to introduce the
habitabiliTy enhanced, general purpOse, MiniMum maintenance, survivabilitY enhanced, 4 Wheel drIve, terrain verSatilE, impAct resistant trUck.
Better known as my trusty steed, TOMMY WISEAU.

"Oh hi Mark."
https://youtu.be/1-Edfr-tiUE?t=20

Final iteration of my truck:


Hey all, I figured this would be a good place to share my experiences and dump photos as this build progresses. I hope I can share some useful information for my fellow non-enthusiasts as well.

So what the hell is a non-enthusiast? In my mind, it's someone who considers working on their truck a problem, not a hobby. Someone who wants to set up their vehicle as a minimum maintenance tool to get them from A to B, while making moderate enhancements to its capabilities. Someone who doesn't have the time, tools, patience, or experience to perform invasive repairs or maintenance themselves.

I've never been a "car guy," which is probably why I never learned anything about them. Prior to owning this truck, I had never done my own oil change. Hell, I still don't know how to drive stick. Learning stuff about vehicles has always taken a backseat to more pressing concerns.

My former 2004 F150 is partially responsible for my lack of interest in vehicles. It was an unreliable piece of sh!t that required thousand dollar repairs almost annually, with complications arising regularly during the repair process. I'm glad to be rid of it, and even happier to have replaced it with a CPO 2015 TRD Sport DCLB.

Attached pictures are from my last days of F150 ownership and the day I brought my Taco home from the dealership.




My build goal is simple. I want to have confidence in my vehicle's capabilities. That means confidence in mundane considerations like...

Starting the truck and driving to work every day.
Getting acceptable performance characteristics, to include gas mileage.
Keeping maintenance costs reasonable, with long-lasting tires and extended oil change intervals.
Minimizing unplanned repair costs, further mitigated by a proper maintenance schedule.
Preventing body rust, UV damage, and other aesthetic degradation so the truck can age gracefully.

It also includes confidence when handling more extreme situations, such as...

Maintaining control of the vehicle in snowy and icy conditions.
Efficiently traveling across stretches of soft sand.
Transiting shallow flooded areas in hurricane-force winds.
Vehicle accidents, with impacts from the front, rear, and/or side(s).
Stabilizing and recovering casualties from adverse terrain, such as a shallow swamp or mountainside.

Do some of these seem unreasonable? I assure you, they are not. All these are things I have needed to do, but have not had the ability or confidence to do with my old Ford.

So, what confidence-boosting capability enhancements am I talking about? Brace yourself, it's a lot. Already-completed items in bold.

Interior/habitability
CoverKing cordura seat covers, charcoal
Husky Liners WeatherBeaters floor mats
RAM Quick-Grip phone mount bolted to modified Expedition Essentials 2TPAM powered accessory mount (details)
RAM GDS 2-port USB chargers x2 + Titan Unbreakable charging cables
Victory 4x4 MOLLE center console panel set, mounted with bolts and nuts
- Haley Strategic Incog holster + bungee
- Spare mag pouch
- Frag grenade pouch for small items
- SOFT-T tourniquet + QuikClot Combat Gauze + NARP abdominal bandage
- Gas mask pouch (as collapsible front row trash bag)
eBay "JDM" shift knob (details)
UltraGauge EM Plus V1.2 on RAM mount in driver's side cubby
HitchSafe, modified to sit flush in Mobtown HC bumper's receiver (details)
DRIVE Bin XL (as back row trash bag) + custom center console bracket courtesy of @ACEkraut (details)
Blue Sea Systems dual USB charger + install in center console + wiring (for back row) (details)
Gentex rear view mirror with compass, OEM P/N 87810-0C210
BlackVue DR750S-2CH dash cam + Power Magic Pro hardwire kit (details)
Germes Lab RFCC TTG2 Front and Back Camera Anytime Controller, with

$40 Natika WD-011 NATIKA Chrome Backup/Front View Camera,IP69K Waterproof Good Night Vision HD and Super Wide Angle Metal OEM Style Chrome Reverse Rear View Backup Camera for Cars Pickup Trucks SUVs RVs Vans (Chrome)

Natika WD-011 front camera mounted on bull bar clamp (details, details)
12V "constant on" mod (details)
AC power outlet switch relocation (details)

Suspension
3" front/2" rear lift kit -
- Dobinsons C59-350 coils on GS59-220 shocks with one PS59-4030 1/4" spacer, assembled
- Dobinsons L59-111-R leaf packs with

$315 GS59-940 Dobinsons Pair of Rear Shocks Compatible with Toyota Tacoma 4x4 2005-2018 - GS59-940

GS59-940 shocks and 2 pairs of SP59-001 greasable bolts
- SPC UCAs (details)
Preventive measures -
- ECGS bushing
- Off Road Solutions ORS-HB201 high angle CV inner boot (details)
- SBR-129 sway bar relocate kit
Post-lift corrective measures -
- Anti-seize applied to LCA alignment hardware (details)

Armor
Front -
- ARB deluxe bullbar, P/N 3423140 (details)
Rear -
- Mobtown high clearance bumper, with Grainger Approved rubber dock bumpers (P/N 22NT80) and mud flaps bolted on (details)
Underneath -
- RCI front skid plate, aluminum, with UHMW spacer under jack point (details)
- RCI transmission skid plate, aluminum, with RCI catalytic converter guards and tamper-resistant stainless steel hardware (details)
- TrailToys fuel tank skid plate, UHMW (details)
Sides -
- Avid Offroad bolt-on sliders with kickout (details)
- 3M Safety Walk grip tape, 4"

Survivability
Air intake -
- ARB Safari snorkel with Sy-Klone 9001 pre-filter (details)
- UP-107 secondary air pump unifilter mod (details)
Drivetrain -
- Rear differential breather mod: OEM union (P/N

$15 90404-51319 Toyota Genuine Parts - Union (90404-51319)

90404-51319), OEM 2-way breather (P/N

$8 90930-03136 Toyota Breather Plug - 90930-03136

90930-03136), 3/8" fuel line x7 feet, and hose clamps x4 (details)
- Transmission overflow plug replacement: P/N

$8 90341-10011 Plug, Straight Screw

90341-10011 (details)
- Front differential drain and fill plug replacement: drain plug P/N 90341-24016, fill plug P/N 90341-A0002 (details)
Electrical -
- X2Power (NorthStar) AGM battery, 27F (details)
- @Coupe wide adjustable TRD battery tiedown (details)
- HKB Electronics fixed 0.5V voltage booster (details)
- SDHQ billet battery terminal kit (details)
- Single-battery solar setup:

$465 Redarc BCDC1225D REDARC 25A in-Vehicle DC to DC Charger with MPPT — Dual Input for Solar & Alternator Charging, Green Power Priority - 12 or 24V Battery Charger Suitable with AGM, Gel, Lithium LiFePO4 Batteries

Redarc BCDC1225D + Redarc RK1260 60A 5-pin relay + Rich Mega 100W solar panels x2 + 8020 mesh retainer brackets (for flush mounting) (details)
- Energizer heavy duty jumper cables
Tires -
- ARB twin air compressor in Expedition Essentials bedside mount with BCM debris shield, wired with Expedition Essentials twin compressor extension harness and custom CH4x4 small switch (details, details)
- ARB inflation kit (P/N 171302) and PowerTank Overlander safety series digital inflator (P/N TIG-8506) stored in AWP 12" tool bag (P/N 1L-20214VP-3, smaller of the two is a perfect fit for long bedside cubby)
- PowerTank Pro Series tire repair kit
Recovery -
- 30 ft 7/8" Bubba Rope + 3/8" NexGen Pro Gator Jaw soft shackle + chafe guards + ARB 4.75 ton 19mm shackle + Blue Ridge Overland Gear recovery strap bag/line damper (details)
- ARB front recovery point, P/N 2823010 (details)
Fire extinguishing -
- Amerex 2.5 lb Halotron fire extinguisher, 2B:C, P/N B385TS (details)
- Amerex 2.5 lb dry chemical fire extinguisher, 1A:10B:C, P/N

$60 B417T , 2.5 Pound ABC Dry Chemical Class A B C Multi-Purpose 2.5 Pound Fire Extinguisher with Wall Bracket

B417T (details)
- H3R Performance extreme duty flat surface quick release extinguisher mount, P/N

$68 NB300 (for 2.5 lb extinguishers)

NB300, qty 2 (details)
Other -
- Fluid Film DIY undercoating
- Honda capsaicin-infused anti-rodent electrical tape, P/N 4019-2317
- Tomcat mouse and rat repellent spray

Wheels and tires
OEM 4Runner TRD SEMA wheels, 17x7 in, 4mm offset, matte black, x5, P/N

$279 PTR20-35110-BK Toyota 2010-2024 4runner TRD 17" Matte Black Wheel PTR20-35110-BK

PTR20-35110-BK (details)
OEM TRD lug nuts, black PVD coated, x4, P/N

$23 PT076-60200-02 Toyota Genuine 4Runner FJ Cruiser Tacoma Black PVD Wheel Lug Nuts (6 Pack) PT076-60200-02

PT076-60200-02
TVD wheel center cap decals, grey metallic (color match for Pro grille text) (details)
Michelin Defender LTX M/S 255/75R17 "grandpa tires" x5 (details)
Speedometer/odometer calibration check (details)
RokBlokz mud flap set (details)

Cargo and outdoorsy stuff
Bed -
- BakFlip G2 tri-fold tonneau cover
- OEM rubber bed mat
- Pop & Lock

$122 PL8521 Pop & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tacoma, Fits Models 2005 to 2015 (PL8521)

PL8521 power tailgate lock with (discontinued) TacomaTruckParts mounting bracket and manual/emergency release cord
- Avid Offroad tailgate panel (details)
- WeatherGuard Super Lo-Side toolbox, P/N 0186-03-01 (details)
- FWP Fabrication universal side rail mounts + QuikFists x2 pairs (for collapsible sledgehammer and halligan tool) (details)
- Coleman Woodsman II folding camping chairs, qty 2 (details)
- Total Chaos bed stiffeners (details)
- Line-X, standard coating (details)
Roof -
- Prinsu cab rack + single load panel + Summit handles + cargo hooks (details)
- Gloss white 3M vinyl roof wrap (details)

Lighting
Headlights -
- Lightwerkz RX350 HID projector headlight retrofit: new OEM headlight assemblies, Lexus RX350 projectors, Morimoto STi-R replica clear lenses, Apollo 3.0 shrouds, potted 35W Denso ballasts, Osram Xenarc Night Breaker bulbs (details)
- Morimoto Motocontrol wiring harness
- XPEL protective film
Fog lights -
- Diode Dynamics Elite Type M fog lights, white (details)
- XPEL protective film
- Slee foglight surrounds for ARB bumper, P/N SOK0049 (details)
- Tamper-resistant hardware (details)
Aux hi beams and ditch lights -
- Cibie Super Oscar 9" LED aux high beam lights (P/N 45312) (details)
- Morimoto 4Banger HXB wide beam LED pods + @scoomas custom stainless ditch light brackets (details)
- Stedi dual connector Smart Harness (P/N WIRQKFT-SMART) and custom CH4x4 switch
- XPEL protective film
- Tamper-resistant hardware (details)
Third brake light -
- MESO Customs third brake light, KC Cyclone version, with plastic center plugs for lights (details)
Under-tailgate lights -
- Putco Blade LED light bar, red/amber/white 18" pair (details)
Cargo/under-hood lights -
- @mattgecko LED bed + under-hood lighting kit (details, details)
- Rigid SR-M Pro lights, flood diffused pattern (details)
- Stedi work light harness (P/N WIRLED-KIT), Mudthrowers 4-way Deutsch splitter, and custom CH4x4 small switch (details)
Auxiliary hazard flashers -
- Whelen Micron amber hazard lights, black/smoked lens, P/N MCRNSAX (details)
- Custom wiring harness and CH4x4 switch (details)

Exterior
Standard hood (details)
OEM black fender flares (details)
CBoy808 TRD All Terrain bedside decals, black (details)
CBoy808 vinyl badge replacement decals, black (details)
OEM TRD Pro grille, P/N

$476 PTR54-35150 TRD PRO Grille, Black

PTR54-35150 (details)
TRP Offroad Bullet shark fin antenna cover (details)

Maintenance
Maintenance binder with maintenance tracker to 500k miles and DIY instructions (details)
Troubleshooting binder with system diagrams, torque specs, and OBD II codes
Metric socket set, ratchet, and torque wrench
Metric ratcheting wrench set
Long zero offset 14mm wrench, for manipulating serpentine belt tensioner
Metric hex key set
Tamper-resistant Torx keys and tri-groove socket
Offset screwdriver and bit set
Oil filter wrench
Grease gun
Wood 2x4 spacers for OEM jack (needed for trucks with oversized tires)
Torin Big Red 6 ton jack stands x1 pair (details)
Wheel chocks x4 (details)
Full complement of vital fluids on-board: engine oil, diff/transfer case oil, brake fluid, steering fluid, coolant

Repairs
LCA cam bolts: one cam bolt seized to LCA bushing at some point prior to purchase, replaced both LCAs and all cam bolts under CPO warranty at 42.8k miles (details)
Splash guards: shredded front-passenger side splash guard around 77k miles, replaced with ARK splash guards at 78.4k miles (details)
Slee foglight surrounds: powdercoat failed around 60k miles (~15 months after install), blasted and re-powder coated around 80k miles (details)
Stainless steel hardware for lights and HC bumper mud flaps: not electrically isolated from steel bumpers, EPDM washers installed at 78.4k miles to prevent galvanic corrosion (details)
RCI catalytic converter guards: contacting driver's side secondary cat upon install causing vibration and noise, RCI transmission skid side mounting holes lengthened to drop cat guard height (details)
LCA cam tabs: two tabs flattened by alignment shop at 78.7k miles, all tabs reinforced with welds at 78.9k miles (details)
ARB bumper: corrosion discovered inside vertical tube portion at 78.9k miles, Fluid Film applied and tubes capped at 78.9k miles (details)
Windshield: road debris broke OEM windshield at 86.1k miles, replaced with low-quality aftermarket windshield at 86.2k miles, proper OEM windshield to be installed after aftermarket windshield fails (details)
Headlight malfunction: strange issue surfaced at 90.9k miles, disappeared on its own after a short drive at highway speed, determined to be due to water intrusion (details)
Rear driveshaft u-joint wear: noticeable carrier bearing play noted at 112.9k miles, rear driveshaft removed and dropped off for assessment at specialty shop at 113k miles, carrier bearing in reasonable condition/one u-joint needed replacement, all 3 u-joints and carrier bearing replaced (details)
Headlight malfunction (second occurrence): same issue noted at 90.9k miles reappeared at 116.9k miles after a heavy rainstorm, Morimoto Motocontrol H4/9003 control box replaced and dielectric grease applied (details)
Headlight malfunction (third occurrence): same issue noted at 90.9k miles and 116.9k miles reappeared at 117.9k miles after another heavy rainstorm, DIM (high beam) relay contacts welded and non-functional, substandard windshield installation leading to water intrusion and IA1 connector corrosion discovered as likely cause, IA1 connector scrubbed/greased and DIM relay replaced, windshield replacement to follow (details)
Pending P0012 error code: pending code appeared at 118.6k miles, cleaned Bank 1 (passenger side) VVT filter, Bank 1 VVT solenoid, and Bank 2 (driver’s side) VVT solenoid, replacement of both VVT filters and VVT solenoids to follow (details)
Windshield: aftermarket TriVal (DOT 563) windshield previously installed at 86.2k miles was determined to be poorly sealed by installer (Glass America), replacement aftermarket PGW (also DOT 563) windshield installed at 119.9k mi by Glass King (details)
Front brake rotors: during maintenance at 120.1k mi, dealership noted that front rotors were warped. This explains the shuddering steering wheel I was experiencing when braking at highway speed. OEM brake rotors installed. (details)
SPC UCAs: during maintenance at 120.1k mi, dealership noted that SPC UCA ball joints were displaying excessive play. Replacements ordered, SPC P/N 35101, install to follow. (details)
Maintenance error: dropped bolt into engine bay while installing new VVT solenoids, which got stuck behind water pump pulley and could not be easily extracted. Ran engine for ~30 seconds to see if it would self-eject, but only got awful screeching sound. Removed fan shroud and fan, then un-seated belt to remove water pump pulley and extract loose bolt. No damage noted, test drive as expected. (details)

Placeholders, mistakes, unnecessary purchases, and bad ideas
Post-suspension lift corrective measures -
- Carrier bearing flip - or - OME carrier bearing drop kit not needed (details)
- Headstrong Offroad 2 degree axle shim kit not needed (details)
- Custom two piece driveshaft with double cardan joint aft of the carrier/center support bearing not needed (details)
Armor -
- Black Horse Off Road brush guard came with truck, replaced with Avid Offroad front bumper guard with TRD logo plate (details)
- Avid Offroad front bumper guard with TRD logo plate replaced with ARB bumper
- Avid Offroad rear bumper guard replaced with Mobtown high clearance rear bumper
- Westin (?) chrome oval step bars came with truck, replaced with Avid Offroad bolt-on sliders (details)
Survivability -
- Low Range Offroad rear diff breather kit replaced with rear diff breather kit made of all OEM components (details)
- Staun tire deflators pretty nonsensical purchase for a vehicle that will see hardly any offroad use; order cancelled
Wheels and tires -
- Husky Liners universal mud flaps with weight, 12" width, front and rear replaced with RokBlokz mud flaps due to front end rubbing (details)
Cargo and outdoorsy stuff -
- Custom cab-height bed rack with sliding top bars mounted on KB Voodoo/MAX Modular bed rack tonneau brackets for Tacomas with BakFlip tonneau covers, equipped with 23Zero Peregrine 180 awnings x2 and standard awning x1 contemplated but not purchased; massive expenditure to achieve the same end result as a pop-up awning
- Custom fold-to-stow/stow-on-board bed bars welded to KB Voodoo/MAX Modular bed rack tonneau brackets for Tacomas with BakFlip tonneau cover contemplated but not purchased; basically an expensive custom add-on that would be useless without owning an RTT, and would slightly impede access to the onboard toolbox
- Mobtown locking bedside cubby doors, set of one long and one short, keyed alike no longer available, not critical enough to research a substitute
Lighting -
- Auxbeam LED headlight bulbs came with truck, replaced with Philips X-treme Ultinon LED H4 headlight bulbs (details)
- Philips X-treme Ultinon LED H4 headlight bulbs replaced with RX350 retrofitted headlights
- Generic LED third brake light came with truck, replaced with MESO Customs third brake light, KC Cyclone version
- Generic LED under-tailgate light bar came with truck, replaced with Putco Blade LED light bar, red/amber/white 18" pair (details)
- Putco Blade quick-connect harness, P/N 529004 not compatible with Tacoma wiring harness, cut up and soldered into wiring harness to offer some enhanced serviceability (details)
- Generic LED reverse lights replaced with Diode Dynamics XPR LED reverse lights (details)
- 921 GY6.35 HIR reverse light upgrade broke 3 of 4 HIR bulbs attempting to re-form electrical prongs, decided to upgrade to better LED reverse lights instead (details)
- Baja Designs S2 work/scene LED lights, 3 pairs (as left/right/rear lights) + CaliRaisedLED dual leg wiring harnesses not needed due to elimination of onboard awning setup
- ARB LINX not needed due to elimination of scene lights
- Lighting controls: @Puppypunter custom power center: auxiliary hazard light wiring harness, cornering light wiring harness, auxiliary high beam wiring harness, work light wiring harness cool idea, but cornering lights are really not necessary
- Cornering lights: Diode Dynamics SSC2 Sport light pods, SAE J583 fog pattern/amber backlight (backlight wired to function as DRL) not needed due to elimination of control circuit above
- Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro fog lights cutoffs not clear enough for my desired aiming level, replaced with Diode Dynamics Elite fog lights (details, details)
- Diode Dynamics 194 HP5 LED tag light bulbs began flickering after 4 years of use, replaced with Philips 168LLB2 halogen bulbs (details)
Exterior -
- Mismatched OEM fender flares, repainted replaced with black OEM fender flares (details)
- Clearview towing mirrors (availability TBD) doubtful these will ever be made

 

Sub'd because I like your honesty and can relate LOL.

Just out of curiosity, what were the issues that arose from your F-150, and what mileage were you at when you bailed out of it?

 

I try to be straight with people and I'm glad it's appreciated.

I got the F150 from my dad when I got back from Iraq in 2010. It had 190k miles on it, and I put on another 140k miles before getting rid of it. In those 10 years, I blew a transmission, transfer case, coil packs, brake lines/calipers/rotors, starter, wheel bearings and CV axles, wiring harness, entire front suspension (coils literally snapped and ball joints fell out of sockets), developed a nasty knock after Hurricane Matthew, and a few other minor things that I can't recall.

 

Yeah, transmissions are a big complaint in Ford's. Sounds like you got some use out of it though. I had a 2001 Ford Ranger that I really didn't have any problems at all with until the head gaskets started to go out at around 140,000 miles. Those were easy miles because I drive like a grandpa plus the 6 cylinder engine it had was gutless. But I had it for 15 years and it always did what I needed it to. It's just that everything went to shit all at once on it LOL. Your going to like your Tacoma. You got a very good year model.

 

Yeah, the F150 generally did what I needed it to do. That said, once I had to start shelling out for massive repairs, my feelings towards vehicles (in general) changed from indifferent to very negative. I missed two Christmases with my family because of truck problems; I could either buy a plane ticket home or pay for repairs, but couldn't afford both. When I say I'm glad I sold that POS and bought a more reliable vehicle, I mean that in the strongest possible terms.

Back on topic. My Avid Offroad order just came in on Tuesday, so I'll be installing some shiny new accessories this weekend. I should be able to install the front and rear bumper guards without too much trouble. The frame mounted bolt-on sliders are a different story. I have no idea how to install those without somehow lighting the truck on fire, so I'll probably hold off until I can get some adult supervision.

 

After 60 hours on the clock this week, I finally got the time to install the first of my "mods." An Avid Offroad front bumper guard, rear bumper guard, and tailgate panel. Took me all of 4 hours and only one trip to the hardware store. It might sound like it took way longer than it should've, but bear in mind that I know nothing about working on vehicles. I'm pretty pleased that I finished before sundown.





I reckon some of you might be wondering what happened to some of the stuff in the original picture.

The "damage multiplier" (grille guard) got shitcanned about 3 days after I got the truck. It didn't take much research to realize that they quite literally do more harm than good in most situations.

The step bars were up for sale for 3 months. I had a buyer lined up to take them for $20, but he flaked out. Dumpster o'clock.

My skewp and color-matched fender flares went to @ImpulseDan, who traded me (+ cash, of course) his standard hood and plasti-dipped fender flares about a month ago. I have since removed the plasti-dip, sanded the paint off, and repainted with Krylon Fusion and Rustoleum trim paint. It's hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like hell. I'll get around to fixing the terrible paint job eventually.

 

After an absurd amount of research, it looks like I'll be going with Dobinsons for my suspension mods. Should I feel like a guinea pig? Despite the rave reviews Dobs get in the T4R community, I still kinda do.




Thanks to @Crikeymike for getting me all set up.

 

After dozens (if not hundreds) of hours researching manufacturer recommended maintenance intervals, individual component service life reports, and high mileage problems related to this truck, I have finally created my maintenance tracker. The single most difficult "mod" I set out to accomplish is (mostly) complete.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...YPa5EPEFb5E3r2i-rZyiTLNTM/edit#gid=1020314799

Thanks to @BlackBeerd for the indispensable 2nd gen DIY maintenance thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-diy-maintenance-quick-reference-guide.438945/

Also thanks to Paul (of Paul's Travel Pictures) for some additional DIY instructions:
https://www.paulstravelpictures.com...Common-Problems-Repair-Maintenance-Guides.htm

The DIY instructions linked above are what make up the bulk of the "Enclosures" mentioned in my spreadsheet.

In addition, I owe thanks to @crashnburn80 and @EatSleepTacos for their immensely helpful input, as well as all those who contributed on various relevant threads dating back to 2013.

 

Did you replace the flares or plasti-dip?

 

I traded my color-matched flares for plasti-dipped ones + cash. I then removed the plasti-dip, sanded off the paint, and attempted to permanently refinish them. This ended badly, so I’ll be redoing it in the near future.

 

I just performed the unifilter mod a few minutes ago:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XO5d4MqZu5I

Tacomaholic said it would take 5 minutes, so I budgeted 2 hours. Much to my surprise, it really took 5 minutes. Good start to my day.

The OEM "sponge" filter was intact and looked okay, more or less. Not too shocking, since I'm just shy of 38k miles right now. I'm not big on taking chances, so I replaced it anyway.

 

I really like the honesty in the original post lol. I just wanted to drop this tip in here to help ya out. Buy some

$22 SEM 39143 Trim Black Aerosol - 15 oz.

SEM Trim black spray paint for your flares, it lays out smooth and looks great. Hit the flares with some scotch bright and give it a few coats of paint.

 

Thanks for the tip. I actually went and bought a half dozen cans of Krylon Fusion satin black plus Krylon matte acrylic clearcoat. I imagine the Fusion will bond to the plastic very well, and the clearcoat will prevent scuffing since it's almost like spray-on superglue.

 

So, fun fact, you were probably exactly right. My refinish job did not come out the way I hoped. Way too gray, which won't match my upcoming ARB bumper at all.




Note: the front "bumperette" did not get refinished. Quite the contrast.

I'm gonna give this paint a shot when I work up the nerve to refinish the flares... again. Unless I can find OEM black flares for a reasonable price before then.

 

Yea man, the SEM trim black is the best that I've come across. Just hit it with a light coat of tire shine to even out the sheen and it'll be good to go!

 

Do you prefer the SEM paint because it matches the OEM trim color the best? Any suggestions for clearcoat to protect the finished product?

 

Yes it matches the best and there is no clear needed

 

After 5 months of getting my ass kicked by 60 hour workweeks, I finally have some time off. I'll spend this week installing the literal mountain of parts I have accumulated. The first task was getting this toolbox installed:





It's a WeatherGuard Super Lo-Side, P/N 186-3-01. After some careful measuring, I figured it would fit neatly between the header rail and the wheel wells. While my measurements were a little off (necessitating the use of wood spacers), the finished product is awesome. I couldn't be happier. I'm not sure if I'm going to paint it black (as originally planned) or leave it as-is.

 

Got a little more work done yesterday. I painted the toolbox black and traded my poorly-refinished fender flares with some OEM black flares. I'm pretty pleased with the results.

 

Lift prep continues... this time, in the form of LCA inspection and driveshaft u-joint working angle calculations. Thanks to @EatSleepTacos for his time and expertise.

It turns out that one of the LCA alignment cams was seized, which is exactly what I was worried about. The more miles you have on your truck, the more likely this issue will rear its ugly head. I thought I'd be in the clear with just over 41k on the odometer, but that wasn't the case. I took it to the dealership to try and get the offending LCA replaced under my CPO 12 month limited comprehensive warranty; the mechanic managed to break the hardware free using PB Blaster, some heat, and (presumably) a whole lot of choice language. To ensure that this never happens again, I'll be removing ALL the LCA alignment hardware and coating it with anti-seize in the very near future.

I also got stock angle measurements for my driveshaft, which is a pretty damn important first step in diagnosing and correcting post-lift driveline vibrations. Here are my numbers:

Working angle for u-joint between transfer case flange and front half of driveshaft: between 1.8-5.6 degrees (specs dictate this should be <0.5 degrees)
Working angle for u-joint between front and rear halves of driveshaft: between 0.2-1.1 degrees (specs dictate this should be within 0.5 degree of next value)
Working angle for u-joint between rear half of driveshaft and rear differential flange: between 0.5-4.1 degrees (specs dictate this should be within 0.5 degree of previous value)
Difference between rear differential flange angle and front half of driveshaft angle: between 1.6 and 3.9 degrees (specs dictate this should be nearly zero)
Maximum working angle for all u-joints: 3 degrees (per Spicer specs)
Reference thread (thanks to @Crom): https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/driveshaft-angles.465292/#post-13904540
Reference video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1m-Fh5kiRU

I'm including a range of values because Randy and I took our own independent measurements, which resulted in different working angles. I'll be taking all the measurements again today to get some additional data.

These baseline values will dictate what corrective measures I take after the lift is installed. I can flip the carrier bearing for free, plus I have 2 degree axle shims and a carrier bearing drop kit if needed. If all else fails (and the data dictates), I have a quote from Gregory's Driveshaft in Virginia Beach for a custom two piece double-cardan driveshaft. Thanks to @cjsqueeky for the recommendation, and @ovrlndkull (and @nd4spdbh, and many others) for their help in this thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/single-piece-driveshaft-for-dclb.672397/

If you're working through the same issue, my calc sheet might be of some use. I'm fairly certain everything on here is right, but am happy to be corrected.