tonered's Weaksauce Taco Build and BS Thread A.K.A I'm supposed to be content, dammit!

Ok, thanks so much for your help Tony and @Shellshock ! Ill do it tonight.

 

You're welcome!

 

I think their some small goodness about the Intake Accelerator? A certain bit of smoothness and pull on the bottom end? No additional sound that I could discern over the HPS intake tube. I am sticking with the paper filter.

This is the Stock part:


I will have to take another quick look, but I believe that slot closest to the camera is on the top.

 

Oh, it's just that part in the fender. Any negatives to losing the deflector thingy?

 

Yes. Just pull the bottom of the box (three screws), pull the existing part off, pre-place the new part through the hole with some folding, slip the box bottom over it, and done.

There is going to be a slightly better chance of water intrusion when fording overly deep stuff. That said, I have heard from folks that deep creeks around here are a bad idea as the super fine glacial till can push past seals?

 

What did you do with the extra wiring from your tail light full C mod? Just shove it back in there or zip tie things up somehow?

I just installed the Meso Stage 1 tails and I can't decide if I want to tidy things up a bit back there or if it doesn't matter.

 

Oh man! @MESO 's should be shorter than you see in my pics? @NoOne hooked me up with prototypes that had some just-in-case length.

I had no issue with "the Tuck" for the past while. IMHO, no need to clean up. For mine, the loom wrap really helped. I have no fear long term.

A couple weekends ago, I finally got to drive behind someone with the @MESO kit ( @phocas ). It was a pleasure to see proper tail / brake lighting on a 3rd Gen. 200% better than stock. The switchbacks were pretty damn sweet also.

 

Good to hear, these are wrapped really well with the cloth wire loom wrap. It seems like a great safety/visibility upgrade along with the @tonered softopper brake light. Much excite, and just in time for the rainy season.

 

@NoOne recommended that wrap. So much easier and cleaner than the OG Black Goo.


Yes! Zero confusion with brake, tails, and turns now. It is honestly laughable stock and I see them a lot. You most likely do also.


I have more parts for the ST brake lights if folks want them.

 

I finally remembered to get direct pics of the visor sticker removal.

I started out with removing them using 91% ISA and a Qtip and then cleaning up the residue with GooGone and GoofOff. GoofOff does not harm the visors. It took a few applications. Later, I got a little steamer, which is way easier. I also recommend taking the visors out for the work. So much easier. Just go very slow with the steamer for the best results.

The remaining residue is hardly noticeable and is zero distraction when driving, unlike the stickers.

 

I have a steamer! Good idea!!

 

I had my limit of the key in chime and beeps going into 4Lo / 2Lo even at times when it was successful. So, the dash speaker is gone. At times (rarely), I miss the turn signal tones, but they were too quiet to start with. It was generally inaudible over 50mph.

Delete steps:

-- Drop the steering wheel out and down the whole way. Push both stalks down the whole way.

-- Pull the radio trim off. No fasteners.

-- Pull the instrument panel trim off. No fasteners. The black surround and vent is one piece.

-- Remove the four mounting fasteners for the Instrument Panel and disconnect the two connectors and the harness support.

-- From there, you can get it out of the Taco. Be sure to note the Taco Truck easter egg.

-- There are eight T15 torx fasteners on the back. From there, the face plates assy slips off.

-- The IP back cover is held on with three easily flexed clips. Slide that off.

-- Clip the speaker and reverse.​

Sorry. No pics.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-disable-door-ajar-chime-permanently.491166/

 

Thanks! Credit goes elsewhere, but I can't remember who.

 

We used a product called badge magic in scouts to stick on uniform patches. It would leave a terrible residue if you ever removed them and goo gone would only do an OK job. The trick was to get the shirt dry cleaned and it would look like new - no more residue.

I wonder if you could have your visors dry cleaned to get that last bit of residue removed?

 

@MESO Flip Fob.

More pics later. But, here is the transponder extraction without destroying the key shell. The shell is made from PC+ABS with 20% glass reinforcement. So, it has a heat deflection temperature of over 300F. They only real heat worry was the transponder itself which worked great after removal.

I used a heat gun to warm it up a bit. Cut the narrow, fob side of the slot off. Exposed the chip to the bottom of the slot. Used a large flat blade screwdriver to break the glue seal across the slot. Then, hit it with more heat and pry the chip up and out.

It is in there with something gooeyer than CA.

Since this doesn't kill the shell, it is reversible when these keys arrive.



Key cut for cheap. The Flip Fob works very nicely. I'm very happy with it.

 

My fam worked at a dry cleaner back in the day. I'm sure the chemicals did them no good, esp in that era. I do remember that they had a mason jar of the good stuff at home when need.


Good idea though! That may work.

 

@tonered You must work in IT and work from home. You have an awful lot of spare time.... like.... ahem, myself Good work and i enjoy following your stuff!

I'd like to do the visor sticker delete, but damn, that's still a lot of residue left!

 

No. I have a desk job at an office. I manage to keep everyone happy and blow off steam here.


I got this steamer after seeing one in action:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EYHAGS

We had an iced up evaporator on our new fridge. The tech used one and it did a killer job. If you getting going just right, it will stay on-the-pipe at max temp for the entire volume to empty out.

 

I have a problem. Should I seek clinical help?



A bit of careful acetone.

 

You should get that black splotch off your lower quarter