CV axle dilemma during ecgs bushing install

I finally got everything put back together successfully and all is well. I used a stainless hose clamp from HD to get my boot reseated. there was basically no damage to it from forceful separation.

From what I could tell, the axle has to be lined up right in the diff to come out smoothly. I torqued and beat on it for a really long time switching back and forth and finally used this:



I wedged the business end between the axle and the diff and twisted. one of the times it just clicked and slid out.
Ill be checking the boot every day for a while to make sure its holding up alright.
Its so nice to be rid of the vibration though. Very happy about that.
Thanks to all who posted and helped me out. Have a good weekend.

Noah

 

As a dad of three boys, I can see merit in this approach. Seems to work for all three sons so....

Also in the flow chart, where ever it says 'Dad' insert 'Tacoma World' and it will work perfectly.

 

Got a picture of that? or were you using rental forks...? I may need to go out and get some. Pry bar and yanking on steel cable not getting it. About 1/2 a day from tantrum or 2nd fouled up part, lol

 

Nothing magical about using the pickle forks. It’s what I had in the garage, and they are something I didn’t care what happened to them. Check out Harbor Freight. They have Pittsburgh 16” forks for $9.99. Get a coupon get a few buck off.

 

Thanks, I more so just meant a picture of how you combined the two to gain leverage, but I was able to whack the thing out using a pry bar and sledge. Same thing as everyone else said, patience, turn, and just keep going at it.

Now, since I was too cheap I need to go and create a puller tool as the part from Autozone isn’t long enough to reach back to where the needle bearing is. Anyone got measurements of that plate that’s used on the backside from the ECGS tool? Thx

 

Nvm, found this cool thread on it... will give this a go and if it doesn’t work, order the damn tool.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ecgs-tool-cheat-code.530484/

 

I appreciate drawings like this. Perfect for a boring day in the shop. Most likely jinxed myself..hope not to need it, but sketched it anyway. I don't tantrum much anymore, but curse and swear for sure. Then walk away for 5 minutes, return and have it practically fall out.

 

And as for the OP, look at all the knowledge gained by taking on the project. Commendable.

 

I will likely help out another local TW poster when he finally installs a lift and encounters this situation. Im not looking forward to it, but ill do it.

 

Something tells me when I go down to check my jb weld project in the morning, I’ll be adding a particular tool to a particular site’s cart. LOL

 

Pickle forks are a waste of time and money . Dont buy one .
Step 1 - if the ball joint doesnt pop , use a bigger hammer .
Step - 2 If the axle wont come out , use a bigger pry bar .
In basic mechanics there are two steps that work well . If step 1 fails , try step 2
Finshed ranting lol

 

Pickle forks will destroy the ball joint boot too. A pitman arm puller works wonders for ball joints and TRE. CV should come out with a pry bar no problem. Like I said before I had to use a ~3’ long crow bar and shock it with a handheld sledge.

 

I would add in that applying heat was what ultimately broke it free. (Edit: on ball joint)

I have to agree and try my best not to come in contact with sensitive surfaces like ball joints/boots/seals/etc. Which is why I stayed away from the fork route.

Pitman arm puller has to be sized though, right? Seems like unless you have measurements in hand, you might be grabbing 2 or 3 just to be sure you have the right one.

I’m still not committed to the ECGS tool yet! Gonna try the jb weld project. Looked better than I thought this morning.

 

Ill add my experience here for anyone who might find this thread in the future.

The few times Ive pulled CVs its always been a PIA. What I found to work good was a combo of prybar and lasso. From below & behind the CV, braced up against the front diff mounting arm thing with the tip of the pry bar in one of the grooves in the lobes of the CV. Got to be careful here not to let the bar slip and round that lobe off or you dont have a bite anymore.

While prying outward, another guy uses the lasso technique from above (careful of the boot). The combo of the static force from the prybar and that quick impact from the lasso has always worked for me. But either method by itself has not.

 

Yeah there's all different sizes, but I think I've only ever used two different sizes on my truck...it's easy enough to borrow them autozone or whatever your store of choice is. Theirs also kits of them on Amazon for pretty cheap.

$53 Orion Motor Tech OMT 5-in-1 Ball Joint Separator, Pitman Arm Puller, Tie Rod End Tool Set for Front End Service, Splitter Removal Kit (RD06)

https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTe...s=pitman+arm+puller+otc&qid=1607539386&sr=8-8

OTC is the brand that most autoparts stores carry and rent...they're a bit more expensive than that.

 

I was able to whack the spindle ball joint for the UCA out fine, but when it came to the tie rod, I had to use heat to eventually get it off. Unfortunately, before that I had flipped the castle nut over and tried whacking it with the BFH and it ended collapsing the nut and ruined the threads. Pretty shocked it did that, but thankfully it was only a $40 part that was in stock at AAP.

I guess in the future, BFH isn’t always as trusty as the proper tool for the job like the arm puller.

/me awaits the BFH guys to come in swinging their hammers

Edit: I also used the flange nut from the lower shock mount to hammer as it was a better striking surface. Unsure if the castle nut was appropriate but I’d seen guys use it

 

Of course the home-made puller tool would need some sort of adjustment and, the JB weld project did not hold up to this. Sigh... I guess I have to order the puller and give myself a for at least attempting to solve it with mind over money.
Arrgh, $48 on a one-time-use tool to install a $60 part has me like a big baby rn

But I reckon I did just say in a previous post that the right tool makes all the difference

 

Don't buy a tool, let me know if you need it and I'll send you mine. You can just pass it on to the next person.

For anyone that cares, I replace my axle shafts every few years due to worn out boots and recently did the ECGS bearing. I have destroyed the axle every single time by prying between the axle and diff. Every single time. I'm talking 7 axles or more at this point. Each time I buy different tools in preparation and each time end up spending 10 hours getting the axles out, then several days recovering from all the jolting on my bones from the hammer. This job seriously sucks so bad. I would not recommend, but if you do attempt it, have a backup plan for when you end up saying screw it and end up destroying the axle to remove it.

The only one I haven't tried is the lasso idea. That's on the bucket list for next time I replace these stupid things

 

How in the world do you manage to destroy them? I’ve done the ecgs bushing on probably 7-8 trucks now with no issues. Sure some axles are harder to remove than others but not to the point where they need to get destroyed to remove them

 

By banging up that metal ring seal on the axle side, which my understanding is that's not a replaceable part. I'm not advocating it by any means, as I'm obviously not proud of it. My point is just the job really sucks. I've tried slide hammers with hooks, massive prybars, screwdrivers, and hammers. It's very hard to get a good angle on the CV grooves and much easier to grab in between the CV and diff, but you destroy that axle seal in the process.