TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I am envious of your toys sir, those are both badass cars

Sadly it’s the way of the world now. I don’t think I could voice my opinions on such matters in this forum. But lets just say after working at the county landfill for 4 months, it makes you realize how much stuff is made to be thrown away instead of fixing/lasting for longer. And it gets buried into the ground, gotta be real good for the environment...

 

Agreed. It's a throwaway product for the world. Hence further pushing the agenda of "consumerism."

The only reason I speak of the sort of things I do is based on my experience firsthand with the products over the course of all my years working automotive. I have seen so many of them in such condition and it's sad, because they can be so much better than they choose to be, but instead they outsource the creation of their products to the absolute lowest bidder which in the end they pay for anyways because most of the failures that happen occur within their warranty period, and people don't want that, despite the warranty offered. They want reliability and ease of ownership.

Of course my automotive workforce days are over now and now I will be maintaining my love for it in the form of hobby limited to the constraints of the current product I own which at this time is Toyota. It's been a hell of a ride, but I guess eventually everything ends right?

 

Fuuuuuu!!!!k pretty sure my rear end just went bye bye. First push of that Spicy tune and bam ton spicy hahaha

 

It's a bottom dollar disposable world now

 

Damn. Praying for your rear end lol

 

This scares me because I have been known to have some fun with mine. Luckily I have a trd sport lsd from a 2007 I think, so if anything did go wrong I could pluck it out and throw my stock one wheel peeler in.

 

Yah hopefully not transmission related but the rest end is binding pretty bad but did just do the valve body work.

 

Jack up your rear end and try to spin the rear tires while the truck is in neutral. If necessary, you may need to take off the driveshaft and try to spin the wheels that way. If they bind, well there you go. Crap rear end.

 

Yah that’s the plan. Drain fluid and check rear. I’m about 200 miles from home so need to figure that out. I’m just hoping it’s not trans related. Rear end at least I know what needs to be done.

 

Dont drain fluid until you are sure that it is the rear end. Don't waste your time doing things that don't necessarily need to be done yet until you are sure of where the issue is originating from. The key here is to be as efficient as possible without spending money that doesn't need to be spent.

 

Could the tune be causing any trans issues? I just loaded the spicy tune only got maybe 300 feet from the location I’m at.

 

There may be a corruption in the tune. Hit up Ben and see if he can check the time to see if it's corrupt because if the issue happened after the tune I would look at the tune before anything else.

I have had a few corrupt tune files before including one for the tranny. It happens. So that is not outside the realm of possibility.

 

It's the same "spicy" setup that others are running. Re-load the tune or go back to the v14 version. I don't know what issues you're having, but there isn't anything unique in your file.

 

Lots of bad noises coming from the rear anytime the drive shaft is spinning just happen to be after the spicy tune it was driving fine for couple hundred feet and gave it some gas a bit of tire slip then lots of bad noises. It will roll in neutral but anything spinning the drive shaft is all bad.

 

Oof sorry to hear that @nudavinci64

On related not so good news, we were out playing in the snow today and were hearing a thud almost directly under the passenger floor. Got home, nothing on the front end appears to be loose, but noticed one of the studs between the passenger side header and y-pipe had broken off. Not really signs of extensive exhaust leak nor were there any of the usual sounds that would come with that. But it did provide some slop in that joint. I’m still skeptical that that would cause the thud-ing sound we were hearing but nonetheless it’s an issue I need to fix.

So question is, pull the passenger side header and just replace the stud and gaskets, or since I’m half way there, upgrade headers all together? If so, long tube or short tube? No smog issues here for not having any cats if I go long tube. But also don’t reallly want to spend the money on that now. Kinda had some cash set aside for a plasma cutter and welding fixture table that this will be dipping into, but I also enjoy upgrading things if I take them apart.

 

If no smog definitely go with long tubes. Also might as well upgrade the header studs with ARP studs. Don’t have the part number for the studs but I’m sure someone here knows it.

 

If some one does have the arp head stud numbers that’d be great! As I’m gonna be doing these in the near future.

 

Here's the thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/arp-head-header-studs.223129/

 

For the older style non SIA headers:

ARP header studs (

$120 ARP 4341301 Header Stud Kit for Chevy LS1

434-1301) and on the newer tacos (I believe) the header holes need to be chased out with a tap (8mm x 1.25) otherwise studs are too tight.

 

Yeah that’s what is says in that thread above. I’ll probably do these.......have people here in our thread done this when going to long tubes? I’ve never paid attention or don’t remember.