wi_taco 2nd Gen Short Bed Drawer Platform v1

Project Overview

Built a truck bed drawer & sleeping platform like many others have done before me (see the megathread here). Documenting to help others in the future. I'd like to give credit for inspiration to builds by cjptacoma, sachou, and scottyventure so thanks to them for sharing. Wouldn't have even started this project without seeing their excellent results. Mine isn't as fancy but this is my version 1.0 and is more about function over form.

Originally built in spring/summer 2021 but this build thread wasn't finished until 2022 because I'm busy, lazy, or both. That being said, I can now give a full review how it works for me in the field - see the "lessons learned" section.

To keep with theme of my overall truck build these aren't meant to be too flashy. I don't want people to know what's in there if it's all closed up, and I don't want to draw attention if I'm stealth camping.




Table Of Contents

1. Design
2. Tools
3. Drawer Slides
4. Main Box Desing & Prep For Assembly
5. Installing Drawer Slide Bearings
6. Assembling The Main Box
7. Sleeping Setup & Tailgate Pull Handle
8. Building Drawers & Final Assembly
9. Final Thoughts & Future Improvements
10. Material List and Cost Breakdown (Work in progress when I'm less lazy)
11. Organization

Goals For This Project:

• Simple Design: I want to provide a blueprint for anyone wanting to build a basic drawer setup beyond just a couple planks of wood.
• Accessible: Anyone can build it using fairly common tools and without a full woodshop
• Availability: Wherever possible I'm using parts that don't require special order and can be found at local box stores.
• Lightweight: Minimize payload, keep MPGs up, and allow more capacity for carrying gear.
• Cost: While keeping costs low isn't my main concern it does factor in to the equation.
• Sleep Setup: I want the ability to sleep fully enclosed in my short bed 2nd gen under the camper shell.
• Security: Locking drawers add another layer of theft deterrent.

"Do I Need To Be A Master Carpenter?" No!

I want to be clear that I have never built any form of cabinet before, however I am comfortable using power tools like circular saws. I have done all my own auto maintenance for 20+ years and home maintenance for 10+ years and enjoy a challenge. Get your hands dirty and don't be afraid to make mistakes to learn!

Be sure you know tools are dangerous and safety is #1 so you can keep all your fingers and eyeballs.

 

Chapter 1: Design Process

First step was to get some dimensions. I read a bunch of other threads (see here, here, and here) and couldn't get agreement on the numbers. Decided to just go outside and measure myself using some scrap cutoffs for a quick mock-up. Note that I installed bed stiffeners first as I knew the main structure would have to clearance around them.



For simplicity I decided to go with a two-drawer configuration. I considered doing different widths like LVYOTA's post here but since I'm only using 1/2" and planning to sleep on top I stayed with equal size drawers for best support. After using them for a year I'm happy with this decision.

Outside dimension of main cabinet = 60" L x 42.5" W x 9.75" H
Inner Drawer Dimensions (x2) = 58.5" L x 19" W x 7.75" H

Cut List for Outer Cabinet if you are using 1/2" material:
Top and bottom platforms (2) = 60" x 42.5"
Outer sides (2) = 60" x 8.75"
Center support (1) = 59" x 8.75"
Rear outer support (1) = 41.5" x 8.75"

Cust List for Inner Drawers if you are using 1/2" material:
Bottoms (2) = 58.5" x 19"
Sides (4) = 58.5" x 7.75"
Back and Front (4) = 18" x 7.75"
Faces (2) = 20.25" x 8.5" but this is assuming 1/8" reveal, adjust as desired

Other Optional Pieces
Pieces that fill-in above wheel wells = 60" x 7.25"
Will require custom cutting/fitting by tailgate and if you have bed stiffeners.

 

Chapter 2: Tools



Many people will already have most of the tools for a project like this, but there are a few special items that I purchased for a specific purpose. You can get by with much less if you are clever so don't feel pressured to buy a whole mess of tools! That being said, there is some truth that nicer tools can provide a more precise fit & finish (in this case a table saw would have been very useful).

In my opinion, the two most important "special" tools would be a circular saw blade with more teeth for the least amount of tearout when cutting plywood, and a 5/16" Forstner bit for drilling clean holes when mounting the skate bearings/bolts.

I bought the "bigger" Kreg jig for pocket holes but you can easily do it with the smaller/cheaper model - just expect it to consume more of your time. I plan on building kitchen cabinets later so I consider it an investment but it does add cost.


Common Items

Power tools: Circular saw and/or table saw, drill, impact driver, angle grinder, jig saw
Measuring: tape measure, speed square, pencils/pens/markers
Drill bits: 1/16" for pilot holes, 3/8" or larger for jig saw reliefs
Misc: saw horses, clamps, sand paper/sponges, misc PPE
Painting supplies: brushes, roller, dropcloth, paint pan, nitrile gloves

Special Items

Diablo 6-1/2 in. x 40-Teeth Finish/Plywood Saw Blade (Model #D0641R)
Bora aluminum saw track/guide for cutting plywood clean & straight (got mine from Craigslist)
Drill bits: Kreg pocket hole kit, #8 and #10 countersink, 5/16" Forstner bit (special order item), 1" Forstner bit, 1 1/4" Forstner bit or larger (can be found locally), 5/8" x 1-3/8" rotary rasp bit

 

Chapter 3: Drawer Slides

Originally I wanted to use full-length premade drawer slides but because I chose to build this project during the middle of the pandemic costs were through the roof. 4 total drawer slides were around $500 total which was out of the question.

Instead I've gone the DIY route like many others before me and costs were under $100.

Special Order Items:

• Qty 100 - 608 style ball bearings (aka "skateboard bearings"). I chose the 608-2RS style for having 2 seals which will hopefully prevent rust a bit longer here in the salt belt. For my shortbed application I got 100 bearings and used 96 total. Cost was $27 shipped from Amazon; eBay is a good source as well.

Common Items - Found at most hardware/big-box stores

• Qty 4 - 3/4" 18 gauge wall (1/16") steel square tube 72" length
• Qty 50 - 5/16"-18 3/4" zinc bolts*
• Qty 25 - 5/16"-18 1.25" zinc bolts*
• Qty 100 - 5/16"-18 nuts*
• Qty 200 - 5/16" washers*
• Qty 50 - 5/16" tee nuts*
• Qty 50 - 1" self-tapping lath screws made for drilling metal

* Metric equivalent for 5/16" is 8mm, get whatever is cheapest in your local area.

These images should give you a good idea of what's going on here. More on this further along in the build (click here to jump to Chapter 5 - Installing Drawer Slide Bearings). As you can see I used two washers beneath each bearing to shim them closer to the center of the tube and account for the plywood compressing when I tightened it down:



Tee nuts on the outer faces of the main box so I don't have bolts poking through. This allows us to build all the way against wheel wells without clearance problems.



Some final thoughts on the design choices:

• I tested out using 1/2" steel tube but I couldn't get the clearances to work. The only reason I wanted to try this was to steal another 1/4" space inside the drawers. It's not worth fighting this battle for such a small bit of space in the end.
• I chose 18 gauge steel tube because it's cheap and readily available where I live. Some others have used aluminum to save weight, some others have commented that you should use 14 gauge for strength. I've beat the living piss out of mine and trust when I say 18 gauge is plenty strong. I'd wager my 1/2" plywood would give out first in this scenario.
• I considered doing some type of bearingless slide setup using plastic/teflon sheet material instead but I couldn't source a suitable material easily. It would be super fancy but not entirely practical especially if you needed a field repair. Basically unobtanium but also no real-world benefit unless you are pinching grams.

 

Chapter 4 - Main Box Design & Prep For Assembly

I started out by cutting the bottom panel sized at 60" x 42.5". This fit at tightly as I could make it and gave maybe 1/4" to 1/2" clearance inside the tailgate when closed.



Now because I have the bed stiffeners I needed to clearance around them, and also clearance around the factory bed bolts. Circular saw with a few small cuts allowed the stiffeners to fit, and a 1-3/8" Forstner bit was perfect for clearing the bed bolt head. You may have to do this differently depending on your configuration.



View of the bottom board that now fits around bed stiffeners and the bed bolt. No other shims required underneath, it rides flat on the ridges of the bed.



I liked the idea of cutting access holes into the bottom panel for ease with assembly and minor weight savings. I think I used something like a 4" margin from the edges which worked out but in the future I'd go with 3" instead to make it easier. Cut these out with a jigsaw and rounded the inside corners just to be fancy - oooh laa laa.



I used wood glue + pocket screws for assembling the frame of the main box. Since I'm using 1/2" plywood that meant using 3/4" pocket screws which surprisingly were a challenge to find at local stores (most of them only stocked 1" as the most common). I splurged on this Krieg jig that clamps to the table and it was a huge time saver. I plan to use this again in the future for building cabinets - don't feel like you have to buy this setup, you can get by with much, much less and the same results.



All the pieces cut, drilled, and hit with 3 coats of Varathane Ultimate Spar Urethane oil-based in semi-gloss. This will help protect from water/moisture to keep it lasting for a long time.

WARNING: Be sure to not stain the parts where you need to apply wood glue or you will have a bad time.

 

Chapter 5 - Installing Drawer Slide Bearings

My method for installing the 608-2RS bearings was as follows. I am not claiming it's the best method but I made it work for me.

1. Start by cutting a 4" jig using a piece of scrap plywood.
2. Using the jig, clamp your 3/4" steel tube 4" up from the bottom edge (or top edge - doesn't matter as long as you do the same for all pieces).
   1. IMPORTANT: Make sure the steel tube is perfectly straight before doing this step. Bend it gently if necessary and use a straight-edge to check.
3. Take one of your 5/16" bolts and put it through one of the 608 bearings.
4. Place your bolt/bearing onto the face of the 1/2" plywood.
5. Using a hammer, gently tap the bolt head to make an indentation into the plywood.

Here's a look at how I used this method to make the indentations which I used as my guide for drilling the holes precisely.



Closer view of making the indentations using my hammer method. See how it marks the perfect bolt location?



For spacing I looked at other builds and saw many people used more bearings up front to give support when the drawer is fully extended. This made logical sense to me so I went with it. I've got 5 bearings within the first 12" and then about every 6" after that. Total of 24 bearings for each piece of 3/4" steel tube (12 top, 12 bottom).



Back to the process of drilling holes I used a 1/16" bit to drill a pilot hole for each location, then used a 5/16" Forstner bit. This is VERY important for getting precise holes.



When drilling using the Forstner bit, I found it best to drill halfway through, then flip the plywood and drill the remainder in the opposing direction. This helps to eliminate blowing out the thin veneer and gives extremely precise holes which helps keep your drawer slides smooth.



Drilling holes is quite time consuming and boring. The fun part is assembly, it goes together quickly and feels quite rewarding. I used my impact driver on the lowest setting which made quick work of the task. Bolt > Bearing > Two washers. Outer panels using 3/4" long bolts and a tee nut, inner support uses a 1-1/4" bolt and nut with bearings on each side (better photos of this if you scroll down to next chapter). I also used a dab of blue Loctite on each bolt to ensure they don't vibrate loose on the trail - might be overkill but cheap & easy insurance to prevent headaches later.

 

Chapter 6: Assembling the Main Box

Now that all main pieces are prepped and ready it's time for a big step in the project - assembling the main drawer box/platform. Using Titebond II wood glue, Krieg 3/4" zinc pocket screws (wrong screws in photo below, I didn't use the 1" screws), and a couple of clamps to act as a 3rd hand I set to work.



I installed the supports in this order: Back first, sides second, and center support last. This allowed me to join all corners very tightly with no gaps. Clamps were only used temporarily as I put in the pocket screws. Glued + screwed = as bomb proof as this silly little box can get.



Another view of the box and bearings to give you an idea of how I spaced them out. Putting more bearings up front was a very good idea, highly suggest this method.



Once the top was installed I flipped it over and coated all exterior surfaces in Rustoleum truck bed liner. I did several coats of this stuff and so far it has held up great. I only chose Rustoleum brand because Rustoleum has manufacturing plants in my city so it's very easy to get versus other brands. Texture is like gritty sand, next time I might do something like Monstaliner as I think I prefer how it feels to the touch. Not really too critical, any of them will do fine.



Here's what the box looked like after it finished drying. Time for a test fit into the truck bed. At this point I was very much under a time-crunch as my spring turkey hunt was coming up in a matter of days. I needed this ready ASAP for that trip.



Test fit was great but I realized I needed side supports for comfortable sleeping inside the camper shell. Using some plywood scraps I cut two long strips (think they are like 2" but it wasn't too important) and then screwed them to the outside of the box with some pocket screws. Notice that I screwed them only up to the top of the platform so my side pieces sit flush.



After that I made up some cardboard templates of the side "wings" and then cut them from more 1/2" plywood. Some custom trimming around the bed stiffener area and voila! we have a sleeping platform. Later on I would cut those side "wings" in half so I could access the power outlet & cubbies below.

 

Chapter 7: Sleeping Setup & Tailgate Pull Handle

Thanks to my time crunch (entirely my fault because I'm a procrastinator) I had to think quick on a mattress. Some other people in the platform megathread were buying a tri-fold kids foam couch thingy from Amazon but I had no time. JoAnn Fabrics sells 3" upholstery foam and there was a sale. This is some expensive foam but it worked out quickly and I do not regret this decision. Topped that with a sleeping bag and it was ready for action. Later on I would improve this with a full-size cheapo sheet & comforter set from Walmart and now it's quite plush.

I am 5'6" and usually only sleep on my stomach which takes more room. With this arrangement I can sleep diagonally with the cap/tailgate fully closed but it's a tight squeeze. If you are a back sleeper you'll have more space. Side sleepers that can curl up their legs will have even more.

Update 11/30/22: Added new bedding photos, click here to see them on post #22.



Once you are inside the shell, you'll need a way to pull up the tailgate. I found this post by tonered where they used nylon webbing to make a pull handle. Luckily I actually had some onhand from my other camping/gearmaking projects along with a knife that I dedicated to heat cutting rope. Hit it with the torch and it makes for sealed ends with no fraying.



Doubled up the webbing strap to make a looped handle. Quick hole at one end and attached it using the screws/bolts that hold on the plastic tailgate cap. Works great and plenty sturdy. Takes up minimal space so the tailgate still closes with no problem.

 

Chapter 8: Building Drawers & Final Assembly

Several months went by since the original platform build and it was time to finish the drawers. I pre-cut all my pieces this time which is a much smarter way to save time.



3/4" steel square tubes were prepped by sanding down first with 80 grit sandpaper that I had onhand, then with a red Scotchbrite pad for a slightly dulled brushed finish. Cleaned up with some denatured alcohol and hit with 3 coats of clear gloss Rustoleum to prevent rusting. Came out perfect.



Drawers were assembled the same way as before - glue and pocket screws. I used a few scrap cuts inserted like dividers to make sure the box stayed square while glue was curing. I opted against cutting slots inside the drawers for a divider system on this build mostly due to time, but also because making those cuts with a circular saw would be quite the chore. If I had a table saw I probably would have done it.

(Ignore all those extra pocket holes drilled into the top, I made a booboo but ran out of lumber so I had to roll with it. Was angry at the time, it's the one major cosmetic flaw. Nobody really notices and the drawers work great so I don't sweat it anymore.)



Once the drawers were assembled I made another small plywood jig to hold the 3/4" steel tubes in the correct spot, drilled 1/16" pilot holes from inside the drawers, and then attached them using 1" self-tapping lath screws. Those particular screws have a wide washer-like head and they hold great.

MY BIG BOLD SUGGESTION: Spend time getting the rails as perfectly straight and square to the box as you can for smooth operation. This is important so take your time.



As you can see, the way I designed the drawers I have an inner face and an outer face. I did that because a) I'm an amateur, and b) it was the best way I could brainstorm to install the handles. I ended up going with Southco 64-50-412-50 handles which have a keyed lock for a little bit more theft detterent. I chose these handles because at the time during the pandemic none of my local stores had anything like this available, these are reasonably priced, and they are pre-finished in black whereas most others are silver/chrome. These work fine and build quality is great, but for my own personal preference I would use something else if I built this again. Outer drawer faces were glued & screwed from inside. Reveal is like 1/8" all the way around. #10 x 3/4" stainless phillips head sheet metal screws for drawer pulls.

Not pictured here: I used a standard interior door striker plate on the bottom inside platform and using a rotary rasp bit I clearanced the plywood for a very flush fit. This method worked great and was very quick. Rotary rasp bits are like $5 at Home Depot, you probably can't find a cheaper faster way to do it.



Both drawers finished with outer faces and latches installed. Left drawer is a bit tight because I installed that center support brace off like 1/16" only at the front. After some repeated usage it has clearanced itself and now pulls smooth. Bearings are very tight against the rail giving great strength when the drawers are loaded up.



After the final test fitting I pulled them back out and finished the same as before - urethane on the inside, Rustoleum truck bed coating on the outside. Three coats of each all done with a brush. WEAR A RESPIRATOR, DO THIS WITH LOTS OF VENTILATION!



And here is the finished product. I played around with adding aluminum edge trim like others have done but I didn't really find it necessary. And since I'm climbing in & out to sleep on the platform, not having those sharp edges of angle trim probably save me from accidental cuts. I'm happy with the way it turned out for my needs. 10/10 would build this again and eventually I might build a version 2 with some improvements.

One final note: Many other people have used turnbuckles/hooks to secure the box from bouncing around. I have not yet done this because mine does not seem to move at all. I think having it tightly fit to my bed stiffeners prevents much movement. And since I haven't flipped my Taco on it's roof yet it's a non issue. You do you.

 

Chapter 9: Final Thoughts & Future Improvements

Some things I learned during the build:

1. You can do this fairly cheap but still expect it to cost several hundred dollars if you want a quality product that will last. Cut corners and you will build it twice and double the price.
2. Lumber prices as of April 2021 are still crazy expensive due to COVID-19; in normal times would be much cheaper.
3. Spend as much time as you can making the assembly square and true. If your boxes aren't square the drawers won't slide as easily and your finished product might look sloppy!
4. If you use polyurethane finish, don’t expect to sleep on your platform for several weeks. It will offgas some nasty fumes making sleep impossible. I probably lost many brain cells figuring this lesson out.

Future Improvements:

1. Next time I would more closely figure out how to efficiently cut my plywood pieces for less waste. I think I ended up buying 5 sheets, maybe I could have only used 4 sheets and saved $60 for beer. More preparation = less money spent.
2. 1/2" plywood is fine for the outer box, next time I might use 3/4" for the inner drawer side pieces. This would more safely let me cut kerfs in for removable dividers like sachou did but also keep the strength for hauling heavy loadouts. Not sure I personally trust 1/2" with too many cuts but that's my preference.
   
3. My camper shell doesn't leak except in extreme circumstances like going through a power no-touch carwash (and even then it's minimal). But I would like to seal it better against water ingress so this drawer/platform lasts longer.
   • Near future I will be installing an Extang tailgate seal that I already have - more for preventing ingress of fine desert dust
   • Idea from HawkShot99 to seal the rails better
   • Another idea from BlkDakDave
   • I'm sure there are others, these are the links I had saved from before

 

Chapter 10: Materials List & Cost Breakdown

This section is a hot mess because I've got piles of receipts and no time to go through them. Someday later I'll finish this but for now this is crap.

Also formatting into a table on this forum is a nightmare, might just do a screenshot at some point. I'm lazy.

My guesstimate is that it cost me about $500 for everything including a few specialty tools.

Code:

Quantity         Name                                   My Source & P/N            Price         Weight
5 sheets         1/2" Birch plywood, grade B2           Menards 1251654            $60.99/ea
4                3/4" x 6 ft 18 ga steel square tube    Menards 2279790            $15.19/ea
100              608-2RS ball bearings                  Amazon (Donepart brand)    $25.98
2                Southco latch handles                  Southco 64-50-412-50       $55.08
Box of 100 (x2)  1" pocket screws                       Lowes; Kreg SPS-C1 - 100   $9.56
48               5x16-18 x 3/4" bolts                   Lowes
24               5x16-18 x 1 1/4" bolts                 Lowes
200              M8 washers (5/16 will work too)        Ace Hardware               $13.98
1 gal can        Polyurethane, semi-gloss oil based     Home Depot 9431            $42.98         n/a
1 gal can        Truck bed coating                      AutoZone 342669            $72.99         n/a
1 bottle         Titebond II Premium Wood Glue          Menards                    $2.79          n/a

 

Chapter 11: Organization

Up until now, I've been throwing my gear loosely in the drawers which is a chaotic mess. Sometimes I'll use these Rubbermaid totes that I already had on-hand and accidentally fit but they are cumbersome and waste a lot of useable space. After doing a lot of searching and measuring dimensions I only found the Front Runner Flat Pack to be suitable but I don't like how they are constructed.

Turns out @WiscoPat had these here Crashpad Crashpod organizers and was showing them to us at the last couple camping trips. Wouldn't ya know they are almost perfect for what I had built completely by a happy little accident. Took a while to arrive from Australia but so far I'm impressed. Cheers Pat!



Truth be told I'm terrible with sticking to staying neat & organized unless I have good solutions like this. While little things like this can add up to considerable expense, if they make me more efficient for longer trips it should pay for itself by giving me extra time to do actual fun things like exploring & wheeling. Will update this post in the future to show how this evolves over time.

 

HOLDING FOR FUTURE UPDATES 2

 

Very nice job with the the platform and drawers.

Appreciate the time you took with the pictures and details. A+++++

 

Thanks for the kind words, happy to share this is great community!

 

Now this is what I need.. Best write-up for one of these that I've seen so far- And I have been looking.
Have been planning on building one of these at my brother-in-law's carpentry shop in the near future...

Thank you for taking the time to really lay it out there! Looks great dude

 

Thank you, appreciate the feedback! If you have access to a full carpentry shop then building one of these should be child's play. Heck, if I had a table saw at the time it would have made my life a dream. But it's totally do-able with a circ saw and a rip guide or some ingenuity too. You can do it, share yours on the megathread when it's finished!

 

Awesome writeup!

 

Thank you!!

 

Hey dude, this is looking good! I'm glad my build inspired you to get after it and build your own. Great write-up, and good call on the Forstner bit for the bearing holes. Mine definitely came out wonky due to using generic twist drill bits.

And unbeknownst to you, you have also just helped me out MASSIVELY, as I'm about to order square tubing for another set of builds, but my local steel distributor no longer carries the 11 gauge square tubing that I used in my KAMP drawers. I've been stressing about how thin I could go without it being too weak, and man I wouldn't have dared go down to 18 gauge, but hearing about your success with it is a huge relief. I also figured the bed stiffeners would clear with just the holes drilled for the bed bolts, but I didn't realize there were different brands of bed stiffeners that were more intrusive, so that's good to know!