Show off your aux fuse panels.

@switch, I’ve been toying w using those bed cut outs to add usb/12v power and switches for bed lighting, plus cleaning up the wiring hack job my cap dealer did on the install.

I’m a DC power noob and you’ve clearly done a brilliant job so thanks much for the detailed posts. I’ll be ordering from you soon.

I’m curious if you finished adding the usb and 12v cig outlet yet, and if you have if you wouldn’t mind sharing a picture or two? Pretty sure it’s better than anything I’d come up w/ on my own.

Much appreciated!

 

I made a small box for the 12v cig outlet and two USB ports using this part from Amazon

$10 QC 3.0 USB Outlet 12V Boat Marine Waterproof Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12 Volt DC Power Charger Adapter DIY Kit with Blue LED Dual USB Ports for Rocker Switch Panel on Car RV Golf Cart ATV

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RHY97ZZ?ie=UTF8




It is mounted at the end of the side shelves near the tailgate.

 

@switch,
Thanks much!

Do you think your side cutout boxes might have enough depth to clearance a USB/12v outlet?

 

You mean my Truck Bed Switch Mounts?


They are deep enough but the the screw holes would be in different locations. Take a look at XFC's product page: https://www.amazon.com/stores/FXC/page/02077541-70F7-46CD-953D-25F9508E8FF4

Do you also need switches? They might have something that would fit better:
This would fit directly


I is possible I could modify my 8 switch plate:

 

Yes, those are the ones. Thanks.

I was thinking of cleaning up all the wiring w/ your aux panel, and then using the switch mounts as space for usb, 12v, and a couple of 3 position switches.

Unfortunately XFC doesn’t have the right combinations in your switch mount form factor. Wondering if I might be able to make a solid cover from ABS, etc and just cut openings as needed?

Thanks again!

 

Yeah, a custom ABS cover would to the trick.

 

You can either add an extra piece of adhesive lined heat shrink to the thinner wires along with another that covers the splice, use a waterproof 4-pin connector to make the connection, or pull the contacts from the waterproof relay plug and replace them using only your new wires so there aren’t any splices but you’ll still need to fatten up the thin wires with some adhesive lined heat shrink. Relay connectors are either push to seat or pull to seat. Pull to seat you have to feed the wires through the sealing plug before crimping the new connectors onto the wires.

 

CH4X4 has a selection of switch blanks that fit the large and small Toyota push switch form factors.

 

When I started adding electrical accessories to my truck, I didn't have a "master plan" and in hindsight that was a mistake. I could have saved some time and materials if I had mapped out what I wanted and built to that plan. The problem is that may "needs" evolved over time (which is just to say I didn't plan ahead).

From my last build, I knew I would need a fuse/relay block in the engine bay. So I did that. But then I realized that many of my cab accessories could be powered from a fuse block located inside the cab rather than using up precious engine bay fuse/relay positions. So I added a fuse block inside the cab. As I looked to accessories in the truck bed and on the bumper, I realized I needed a fuse block in the taillight also.

I've posted about these various projects separately but I think I should try to summarize my entire electrical setup as it stands to date:

I have three fuse / relay locations:

1: Engine bay fuse /relay block
LED light bar in bumper
Cornering lights
A pillar lights
Rock lights

2: Cab fuse block
Power to switch panels
Compressor
USB plugs

3: Taillight fuse block with three external waterproof relays.
Side lights on ARE truck cap
Rear lights in bumper
Lights inside ARE truck cap
USB plugs
12V cigarette plug
DC/AC converter


Here is a functional diagram that shows how the switches work in each location.
I need to make a diagram that shows accessories that are powered directly like the air compressor.





Note that the above is just a schematic to give you a general idea of what control wires go from one place to another. An important point are diodes (triangles in the drawing) on the circuits from switches that control multiple lights. For example the wires from the Dash Switch Panel for the Front Lights and Side Lights each have diodes to each relay they power to prevent back flow of power from switches that control individual lights.

 

Here’s my take:



I used the PowerTrays sPOD Source SE (https://www.powertrays.com/products/spod-powertray) and modified it to fit what I needed. Power and ground are supplied by 4 AWG marine grade wire and tinned copper lugs.

Mounted below the main fuse block is the Blue Sea m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect. (https://www.bluesea.com/products/7635/m-LVD_Low_Voltage_Disconnect)





The m-LVD will disconnect at a user set threshold between 11.3V to 12.1V. It’s rated for a continuous 65A, with intermittent spikes up to 115A.

The factory fuse box lid can be opened, but just barely. It’s a snug fit. This has been a fun thread to read through. Thanks for the inspiration.

 

Main breaker, 6 slot fuse panel, and automatic charging relay that will feed my second battery in the bed. The second battery will feed the rest of my 12v accessories that will also a smart fuse block.



Here it is installed


And another configuration of a circuit breaker, 12 slot fuse block with a grounding block.

 

Did u make that side mount bracket? That looks awsome

 

I did, and a few more just like it...

 

Kind of messy and rough around the edges. But mostly turned out how I wanted it.

 

Today I worked on the other problem I created by not anticipating all of he electrical mods I was going to do. The factory ground point next to the battery was becoming a little crowded.



I was looking for a place to mount a

$25 DaierTek Marine Bus Bar 12V 6 x 1/4" (M6) Terminal Studs 12 Volt Bus Bar Power Distribution Block with Cover Max 300V AC 48V DC Positive & Negative Battery Terminal Block for Automotive Car Boat

negative bus bar and settled on the area next to the battery behind the plastic.


With no easy way to drill holes in that location I designed and printed some mounts that would snap onto the body.

The bus bar mount has two parts. One end fits the angle of the sheet metal tightly:


The other end wraps around the frame and snaps into place:



Here is the bus bar mounted:






I wasn't able to move as many wires as I would have liked because it would have been a lot of work to redo parts of the harnesses, but I got half of the ground wires relocated, which is good enough. More importantly I have more ground positions for future projects.

 

can...we get that STL file for the mount? i'm currently in the same crowded position...

 

Unfortunately, giving out STL files is against company policy (I sell my projects as a side business). But I haven't decided if these are worth selling yet, so PM me your address and I'll send you a set.

 

I am betting it is. Also because the mounts would work for a number of different uses. There is the ultimate headlight upgrade that requires a place to mount the relays and that same location is the best place to put them. Try posting a thread that has pretty much what you posted above and ask how many people would be interested. I think you will be surprised by the response. Depending on price I would be a buyer.

 

$20 shipped (US48)

 

That sounds fair. When do you start taking orders?

Edit: Just noticed a potential problem for me. I have a 2nd Gen and you have a 3rd Gen. Not sure if it will fit my truck. I have never compared the two gens for similarities. Guessing it will not fit mine.