3rd Gen Cowl Induction Snorkel

Continued the project and learned some stuff (mostly how to 3D print).
V7 i think was printed in PLA+. Did not hold up after 3 weeks baking in the sun. Reprinted in PETG which should hold up a bit better overall.
PLA+ melted in 35c+ heat soak. ( granted was printed with 20% infill unlike the 60% i did in PETG.






Overall there is a full inch above the X20 winch controller, so would need to snap off before hitting the underside of the hood

 

Found a plug that will let us seal the 3-1/2" oem intake instead of taking it off. This way we can have both the oem intake for highway driving, and the snorkel for crossings/ in the dirt. This solves the issue/ concern of any input lag from too little air getting to the engine from the 3" induction pipe
It's a 3" to 3-1/2" pioe plug that expands out and grips to the inside of the pipe instead of a traditional cap that grips the outside.


Parts and tools:
Stuff i got was all from Amazoom:

$12 Cherne 270178 Gripper 3 in. Black Mechanical Clean Out Plug

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000VYL5CC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

But you Americans can get your hands on the same thin from Home Depot:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CHERNE-Gripper-3-in-ABS-Mechanical-Cleanout-Plug-270178/306895666


So According to Amazoom, the 3" version of the mechanical plug expands from 3-1/4" to 3-1/2"



I HIGHLY recommend removing the Nylon washer that comes with it and replacing all of the hardware with something nicer - the Stainless that comes with this stuff was fairly rough/ crunchy and basically used a blow torch to heat up the head of a bolt and force in a new slot to capture the head of it.
Reason being i recommend this, because once you squish the system to the 3-1/2" diameter we need it do, the nylon washer compressed and slipped into the hole with the screw. so when it came to unbolting everything, it jammed up HARD.
had to take a grinder and cut off the hardware it came with.
|

also threw in a fat 1-1/2" fender washer to help it out a bit more.



Glued the OEM intake funnel with the same RTV silicone that i had laying around to try and water proof it slightly and also to keep it in place



And yes, lots of room remains to the OEM paper filter


As it';s a mechanical compression bond, it shouldn't budge but i've marked it with a paint marker and gonna keep an eye of it to see if it moves for the next week. otherwise, should work

 

@honkonbobo
You're talking about here right?

 

yes exactly there. planning to put a hole in both sides.

 

Thinking of up sizing this to a 4" ID variation
1. ($38) one 4" 4-Ply Reinforced Straight High Temperature Hump coupler hose
2. ($32) one

Upgr8 Universal 4-Ply High Performance 45 Degree Elbow Coupler Silicone Hose (4.0"(102MM), Red)

4" 4-ply 45 degree elbow coupler hose
3. ($32) one 4"

$23 Spectre Performance (91489) 4" Aluminum Duct Mounting Plate

Mounting plate (Spectre 91489) ||| (alternate $12

$14 Spectre Performance (9148) 4" Duct Mounting Plate

4" plastic mounting plate(Spectre 9148))
4. ($45) one

$45 Spectre Performance SPE-9775 4" Flex Boot, Black

4" Spectre Performance 9775 flex boot

For the hose, either go the 4" aluminum/ stainless straight pipe or go with a 12" length of the

LTI Universal (305mm) 12" Length 4-Ply Reinforced High Performance (102mm) 4" ID Straight Coupler Silicone Hose (4" RED)

4" silicone hose
my concern is the 4" hose collapsing but i can't imagine that happening unless a vacuum is created, so i think the silicone would be more than enough. could also get rid of the bends as well as you would just cut the hose to fit the mounting plates


My largest question is mounting the 4" hose to the airbox from the outside.
according to Spectre their 3" mounting plate has an outside diameter of 3-3/4'" by 3-3/4"



whereas the 4" plate has 4-3/8" by 4-3/8"

So technically we wont be able to mount it inside the airbox, but we'd need to figure out a way for the outside.

thinking maybe a 3D printed wedge on the outside to bolt into..





@Snail81

 

I thought about going to 4”. After a few measurements I found there isn’t enough room for a 4” hole to be cut into the air box. I contemplated about sticking with a 3” mounting plate on the airbox, using a 3” to 4” silicone coupler, using a 4” wide pipe/tube and then using a 4” mounting plate on the fire wall. Decided against it as I’d need a 3” and 4” hole saw and didn’t feel like spending that much on tools I’d only use once.

https://www.amazon.ca/TuoLauthon-St...1695587227&sprefix=3+to+4+sili,aps,238&sr=8-3

In the end after reading every post in this forum I decided to stick to 3” as no one seems to have any issues. 3” tubing seems to bring in enough air flow, it doesn’t choke the engine out in any way. I have all the parts sitting on my work bench waiting to be installed

 

I managed to find a spot that the 4inch holesaw carved though without much issues.


as discussed, there isn't a way to mount the hose to the inside of the air box, so what i'm in the middle of working on is a fancy cowl adapter that shoooooould work. This is V2, just refining some stuff on it;



V1 is on the 3D printer now to get a decent idea for fitment.

Also i realized i can just 3D print the mounting plate, just did some minor alterations to the 4inch plate i used for the standing A/C earlier this summer...


you can see the 3 and 4 inch ducting mounting plate attached, it's basically a carbon copy of the Spectre 8148 and 9148 plates

idea is to print off 2 of the 4"duct mounting plates, one for the cowl and the other to attach to the air box adapter like so;

this will make printing much easier and less wasteful (mostly faster)

with this way, the part list was reduced
going to try a

LTI Universal (305mm) 12" Length 4-Ply Reinforced High Performance (102mm) 4" ID Straight Coupler Silicone Hose (4" RED)

4" straight pipe and just need

$12 ISPINNER 2 Pack 4" Stainless Steel T-Bolt Hose Clamps, Clamp Range 108-116mm for 4" Hose ID, Pack of 2

two 4" stainless hose clamps

 

Have been debating whether I should install a snorkel, or cowl. I had a cowl on my 2nd gen, also had a snorkel at one point. I feel just incase I do decide to do fiberglass again because of my Long Travel that the cowl will be best. Awesome install.

Thanks.

 

V2 Printed, Concept works and the last little bit of fitment is known.

Just need to make some design considerations and dimensions changes and i should had a PETG/ ASA print done before the end of the week at this rate. Plan to upsize the Airbox hole to let a 4" holesaw nest into and have it as a guide for anyone doing this first time. @TacoPandaTRD Overall i think this will work. Just will need to bond the bracket onto the airbox somehow, PL supreme Glue should be super good enough right?

 

Wow that is super impressive now I want to do the same. The 3D print solves all issues of upsizing. Little bit of glue and it’ll be air tight

 

Are you going to be selling these?

 

Im more likely to sell the design/ stl file on cults or thangs, that way you can even get it CNC'd in aluminum from send cut send if you wanted to. But still making sure it works, ill cross that bridge when i get there since im not set up for production and shipping

 

update:

You Vs the the Snorkel she doesn't tell you about:


Parts list:

two

$12 ISPINNER 2 Pack 4" Stainless Steel T-Bolt Hose Clamps, Clamp Range 108-116mm for 4" Hose ID, Pack of 2

Stainless T- Clamps

LTI Universal (305mm) 12" Length 4-Ply Reinforced High Performance (102mm) 4" ID Straight Coupler Silicone Hose (4" RED)

4 inch x12inch long straight silicone hose

3D printed stuff:
4inch Trumpet intake
4inch mounting plate
4 inch bend mounting plate
cowl adapter

Plan to mount it and test it today

but this version is stupid cheap, $65 on amazoom and then a spool (about 100m according to Cura, so 300ft) of PETG+ like $30. so $100 in material costs (implying you already have the 3D printer)

the intake trumpet is a special use-case, optional but i think really good to have. Like earlier there was concerns of water getting in, the sort of acts like a lip.

but also does trumpet stuff, like whatever this important diagram says

 

What size is the pipe out of the airbox, is there anything to gain by going to a 4" intake?

 

OEM intake is a 4" that converges into a 3.5" at the filter

technically we gain a little bit of intake area

math says
3.0" area -28.27433 sq-inch (intake we all bumpled about)
3.5" area = 38.48451 sq-inch (OEM intake)
4" area is 50.26548 sq-inch (upsized)

however the gain is to get the intake out of the wheel well and into the air cowl under the windshield, which gives us about a foot of extra water crossing power. but mostly it reduces the amount of dust getting to the filter while driving behind someone. we all complained "lack of power" and "lag" so figured to say "fuck it" and just made a 4 inch intake to see "what the fuck" happens and if it solves the issues for the 3" intake

 

Yeah I knew the oem one was 3.5 but I was wondering if the tube the MAF was attached to would end up being the bottleneck here haha. Fitting the attachment for the 3" was tight as is and I still have to fit a compressor over the tube, but I'm also curious if there's anything to be gained by sucking in more air up front

 

oh, MAF side, It's 3.5" inch to the engine.

thinking about it now, initial surface concerns is that there is not much to gain. Could change all my numbers to a 3.5" intake, but people pointed out it's "hard" for air to get into the cowl (so theorized to cut holes into the cowl itself, but i think that's overkill). so with a 4", it would "breathe" easier as it doesn't need a vacuum (wrong word here, not like it's going into negative pressure) to pull in air, as well as i think it could reduce intake noises? not sure about that one though.

i followed the rules of
"Our Scientists Were So Preoccupied With Whether Or Not They Could, They Didn’t Stop To Think If They Should"

in my defence, i learned to 3D model and print and i had spare filament

 

I thought the cowl was an area of high pressure and aided in induction though? (I'm not an engineer ) definitely open up the sides of the cowl though

 

fluid/air dynamics and all of this voodoo to me, i have no idea how the trucks work or what goes where and how much of it. i'm just winging it like everyone else with basic surface level knowledge and just shitting on Toyota's millions of dollars into R&D thinking this is "better" than what they did. I just look at it and think "yeah, this is super good enough" and call it a day.

as @3JOH22A mentioned in the Ontario BS thread

so yeah, good point about opening up the sides

 

Fwiw, the MAF tube is 78mm/3.07” ID.