RM Engineering PCV Reroute Kit Info & Answers

Hey everyone,

My name is Ryan, owner of RM Engineering & Off Road. I have been off of TacomaWorld for a few years but recently saw some questions people had about the PCV kit in various threads so I decided to start this thread with some more info hopefully answer some questions.

First off, I'm located in Arvada, CO and specialize in most things off road. I do shock rebuilds & tuning, suspension design, custom design and CAD work, metal fabrication, and pretty much anything between. I also make accessory and jack mounts for vehicles as well as Toyota specific products such as the PCV reroute kit and some 4th gen Tacoma products in development.

Website: https://rmengineeringoffroad.com/

What is the PCV Reroute kit?

The kit does exactly as it's named, it reroutes where the crankcase ventilation point from the rear of the drivers side valve cover to the front (oil cap). Why? If you own a 3rd gen Tacoma you've likely either seen or experienced the truck burning oil and creating a cloud of smoke on steep climbs. This is due to the location of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) pickup on the rear of the drivers side valve cover, as well as the location of oil drains within the cylinder head. Once the vehicle is on an incline or leaned drastically to the drivers side for more than a few seconds, oil begins to pool in the rear of the cylinder head. When enough oil has built up, the OEM PCV valve will suck this oil directly into the intake causing the truck to burn oil or even worse, hydrolock a cylinder. I have seen these trucks smoking in person countless times and have seen a friend of mine hydrolock the engine which was quickly followed by rod knock (he did have a catch can installed).

Catch cans are a common addition but are only a bandaid. Unless you are running a very large catch can, it will fill up and oil will be pulled into the intake just as it would have without one.


By moving this pickup point to the front, it will 1) be elevated when the vehicle is on an incline, and 2) is located on a point of the cylinder head in which there are more oil drains to prevent pooling on a steep decline.

See the images below if you're unfamiliar with the kit or where in the engine bay it is located.

*The first picture of the engine bay was taken during prototyping. All kits come with an in line PCV valve pre installed which can be seen in the product picture.*




How do I install it?

Install is very simple. Remove the OEM PCV hose, cap the PCV valve with the included cap, remove and replace the oil fill cap with the supplied cap, and route the hose to the fitting on the intake.

To watch an install video see these two videos made by a couple of rad customers running the PCV Kit:

YotaNed's video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8MCRF0h7uE

Classy's garage video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUIja_kMoRg


Questions?

If you have any questions about the kit or anything else I offer, feel free to reply to this thread or email me directly at rmengineering.offroad@gmail.com

See you on the trail!

 

OK so I’m the one that spoke to you on the phone concerning this. We’ve been discussing this in a different thread, but now everything needs to be addressed here. so my first question is concerning this post:

 

If you've ever pulled the PCV hose off the valve and started the engine you'd know there is a significant amount of vacuum being pulled into the intake.

This kit just moves the location at which the crankcase pressure is removed from the engine. The OEM PCV valve is on the valve cover, as is the oil filler neck. Functionality between the two is identical, just a different location meaning oil isn't introduced to the intake.

 

I think there's some confusion about what's being asked here. Engine vacuum pulls crankcase fumes out through the PCV valve but those fumes have to be replaced with fresh air somehow. I don't know exactly how it's done on this engine but most I'm familiar with have a line from the air filter housing to the crankcase. This allows fresh filtered air to be drawn in as the fumes are pulled out.

 

Appreciate you chiming in @mmthaswrong. Your kit looks to be a nice practical solution to this problem with the 2GR-FKS V6. Hopefully it can provide some clarification for the users here.

Small suggestion: You might update your first pic to show the new PCV valve that is inline on the hose (maybe also include an arrow pointing to the connection to the intake too since it's kindof hard to see, seems this might've been a small part of the confusion in the other thread here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/removed-my-s-b-cold-air-intake.855859/page-2



Edit:
I'll add here the thread that discusses this issue in-depth:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/smoking-while-on-a-incline.511373/

 

The purpose of a crankcase vent in the first place is to relieve pressure from combustion gasses getting past the piston rings and entering the crankcase under normal operation. There will constantly be crankcase gasses whenever the engine is running.

 

I appreciate it, new product pictures are being worked on currently so that will be updated.

 

I get your fix and its a simple fix for the pcv oil pooling problem (better than an catch can IMO). But there 100% is fresh metered air replacing what the PCV pulls out. Its the tube that runs from the intake elbow, before the throttle body, into the passenger side valve cover. There'd be a vacuum in the crankcase if the air wasn't replaced and you'd have unmetered air going into the engine causing it to run lean.

 

Interesting, subbed!

 

Been meaning to pick one of these up for offroading but have concerns about running it all the time. It is my understanding that PCV location is often chosen in order to promote oil flow and that there is
usually baffling under the PCV in order to reduce oil, etc getting out. Obviously at extreme angles the new location is significantly better but I wonder about during normal use. Also the CCV and PCV are at opposite ends of the engine in order to fully remove blowby before it can contaminate the oil so with them closer together more frequent oil changes are most likely advisable.

What kind of PCV valve are you using? Do the specs as far as pressure and flow during different levels of vacuum match those of the original?

I have been toying with the idea of installing your kit but using ball valves to allow me to select between the two PCV valves so I can easily switch back and forth.

Thoughts?

 

The in-line PCV valve has an added restrictor to match the same flow rate as the oem pcv valve. It acts the exact same as the oem system during normal operation. There is also zero need to change the oil more frequently, there are so many variables that contribute to oil contamination that moving a ventilation point on the valve cover has no effect on the oil whatsoever. There's no point in swapping between valves when they both operate the same way.

 

Ordered . . . a few.

Thanks!

 

I can't imagine there's air baffling in there (my other vehicles didn't have any)... If there is, it seems to do a poor job, given all the pics of partially-filled catch cans I've seen on here & elsewhere (not talking ones from after an offroading trip either).
Does anyone have a pic of the underside of the D-side valve cover?

Or just put a catch can on it after the PCV valve.

 

But being that is pulling from the oil spout now, wouldn’t these vapors be clean versus the crank case vapors?

 

Isn't it dumping into the oil spout?

 

No, they're still the same vapors but now without a baffle, ironically in this case, to stop the engine from ingesting oil. All you did was move the pick up point from the back of the valve cover to the front.

You can see (left cover) the pcv valve at the bottom and the oil fill at the top. On the right cover towards the top left you can see the nipple where the pcv system draws in the fresh air.



Here you can see (left again) the pcv baffle (orange/black on bottom right) and the top right is the oil fill tube.

 

Clean(er), I suppose (assuming you mean from back of the valve cover)... I'm sure there would still be some mist in there a catch can could collect though

Shouldn't you be removing "S&b cold air intake" from your Modifications profile?

No, it exits there afterward.

 

Great pics!
Ok, so there is a baffle...

I think that the distance the vapor has to travel up the filler neck (the time it takes for that to happen) would also be enough for the majority of oil mist to fall out of suspension (again, if worried, run a catch can... My Fords had nothing more than a simple hole in the top of the valve cover and the PCV valve stuck into it with just a rubber grommet, and never had issues).

 

lol, forgot about that! I sure will.

 

How do you remove modifications from the profile. See no edit tab