Cheap/Free Mods

Don't forget about the dark ass cup holder mod. Choose your color I went with amber to match the instrument panel. 3mm 12v LEDs 3000 brightness. Gives it enough brightness to almost see everything down there except the "non-illuminated" 4X4 switch on the dash. Can't see the damn thing in the dark... what did Toyota only think is snows during the day?

Other than that complaint... I LOVE THE TRUCK

P.S.
About $6 for a pack of 10 LEDs

 

Bump for some stuff I'll have to look into. And also could this possibly get stickied.

 

Tiger ! you da man ! Everyone of those mods are killer ! I have resisted the mods road because of the cost, and also I am not very good with tools in my hands, but I might be able to handle a few of these, really thanks.

 

Most of us know the tailgates are weak and Toyota's first attempt at a solution failed miserably. The tailgate has been redesigned, but who knows how much better that one is. Before all those TSB's came out I decided to reinforce it myself. There's a few different ways to do it. I took some inspiration from a couple posts on TN since they both showed how to get some steel bars inside the tailgate and bolt them in.

The two threads:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t178961.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t170754.html

I'll post critical pictures here incase they disappear from the other threads.

The red bar shows where it was placed on the INSIDE of the tailgate before bolting it in. Picture on the right is it bolted in. He went a little overboard with pieces under the vertical braces from top to bottom. I don't think those are needed. I only have pieces at the top and bottom edges. The pics below also have a bar at the bottom edge.


Different setup with angle iron. After sliding it in you can clamp it, and then drill/bolt it in. I did this mention for the brace at the bottom of my tailgate.


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Tools/parts: (depends on method. this is what I used)

• drill with titanium bits
• chop saw
• old bed frames (free angle iron!)
• bolts/machine screws, washers, and nuts of your choice. I had a box laying around
• 2-ton epoxy
• black spray paint
• dremel tool or pocket knife. I used the knife.

I think that's about. It's kinda rigged, but it's SOLID! heh The truck squats before the tailgate moves. Which is to say, I have yet to feel the tailgate flex or cables to stretch since doing this.

What I did:

1. remove the screws holding the tailgate cover
2. unsnapped the plastic cap
3. 2-ton epoxy to hold the a piece of angle iron to top edge of the tailgate (about where the red bar is above)
4. cut off the the pegs on the plastic cap that hit the angle iron (since it covers the holes they used to snap into), and keep trimming until it fits back on.
5. drill holes through the plastic cap and tailgate
6. use fender washers on the bolts to hold the cap on, and lock nuts on the inside of the tailgate. (I think I used 1/4 20 lock nuts and matching 2" machine screws)
7. Put another piece of angle iron inside the tailgate along the bottom edge. Due to the size of my angle iron I had to cut the length down to 31" to get it around all the braces.
8. line it up at the bottom of the tailgate, clamp, drill, and bolt it in.
9. Reassemble the tailgate and you're done. I just painted the screw heads and fender washers on the top of the tailgate to blend in with the cap better.

You could possible put the top piece of reinforcement inside the tailgate like the first TN link, and space it so the plastic cap doesn't need to trimmed and bolted on for a cleaner look. I didn't have titanium bits when I first did it so it was almost impossible for me to drill through the angle iron. Thus the 2-ton epoxy to hold it on. When I later went to do the bottom piece a better way (bolted) I didn't want to try getting the epoxy off to redo it.

 

Pics of my setup.

Bottom reinforcement (since I've seen this edge bent too I decided to add this later). The screw heads are where the bar sits.



Close up of how the bar sits inside the tailgate. You could do something similar for the top rather that put it over the outside like I did. This is from leaning over the top edge facing the cab looking inside the gate.


Continued again.... (damn 5 image limit!!!)

 

The top edge after bolting. May not look the best, but functionality over looks IMO. It does what I needed it to do, and who knows if Toyota finally got it right or not. You can barely see the bolts with the cover on anyway so......




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No problem! Glad you like them! Not sure if I wrote them up in an understandable way, but I can edit them later and answer any questions people have.

I'm not an expert with tools either! I can just figure things out and make it work. It's my truck, it's dirty and scratched, and will be used like a truck so I'm not overly concerned about appearance as long as it does what I need. I also tend to rig things instead of buying the expensive part or tool needed to do it "the right way".

 

Tiger, I know that yours is a truck, and not a Mall Queen, as is mine, the way nature intended.

 

On the black headlight mod, could you explain what you mean about the wax paper on the edge?? Also, do you "scuff" the chrome surround to make tha paint stick??

This is a GREAT thread...thanks!!

Mike

 

Sure. The chrome surround needs to fit under a few tabs when you snap it back it. Play around with a little once you've taken it apart and before you paint so you get the idea how it needs to go back in. Because of those tabs and it being a tight fit the paint can rub off while putting it back together. I tried it once, took some paint off, touched it up, and decided to let the dry overnight. So it may be stronger when fully cured as well. The paper goes along the edge to help protect the paint as you slide it back into place, and then pull the strips out just before you snap it completely in place. Tweezers or needle noise pliers help get the small parts that might rip off. They may not be needed if you let the pain dry over night like I finally did, but I wasn't taking any more chances! I did NOT want to do this again!


No prep is needed! The Krylon Fusion paint is designed to bond to plastic! (Patio furniture, automotive plastic, etc. without prep or primer)

 

If you're like me you've backed up on a trail or frozen snow bank and broke the 7 pin harness for the tow package. Or, like I did, completely tore the damn thing off. Stupid location for it anyway since it's lowest part of the bumper and damn near designed to snap off.

With that said, I relocated mine to the bumper after buying a replacement from Wal-Mart for <$10.

There are two options for this. You can drill a hole through the bumper next to the license plate like I did. Or you can remove the driver side license plate light and use that hole (7-pin requires some trimming to fit apparently).

Thread on TN about the second option thanks to MrGrimm!
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1652523&posted=1#post1652523

Pic of the final result:



That method is less labor intensive than drilling through the chrome bumper, and was posted after I followed the drilling method.

Mine looks like this (not my truck)


My truck: (You can kinda see it under the tailgate)



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Parts/tools for my version:

• 2" metal hole saw
• drill
• 2-4 self tapping screws
• new 7-pin plug (unless you can salvage the old one and disconnect the wire to thread it threw the new hole)
• wire strippers and screw driver if you get a new harness

My 7-pin was toast so I cut the wires off as close to the plug as I could. I pulled the wires through the new hole once I had it large enough for the plug. (Hole saw died before it was done so I used a cutoff grinder to finish the hole) The color code on the wires lined up with the one on the new harness so it was just a matter of stripping off some insulation, matching the colors to the correct points, and screwing them down. After the plug was back together I tightened some set screws to clamp the wire in the back of the plug, put it in the hole, and used self tapping screws to secure it.

Grimm's idea looks easier, but I like having my 7-pin point straight back. I plan on getting one of those lights that plugs into it to aid in loading and backing up so I don't want the light angled off to the right.

 

I have the factory keyless entry without an alarm. That means I have to look for the lights to flash or listen for the door actuators to know it's locked or unlocked. Normally it isn't too bad, but bright sunny days or loud environments make that hard. I have to be standing next to the truck to know for sure sometimes.

There's a mod for that though and it only costs $29.50 with free shipping.

Website for it has pictures and PDF for installation (3 wires). I haven't done this yet, but am seriously considering it! It activates off the hazard/4-way flasher lights and only when the engine is off. (Will not beep with engine running.) There is a shut off switch on the top if you need to stop it. ie, pulled over for an accident or something with the engine off and hazards on.

MOERSE LEKKER SALES

A few people have tried to wire in buzzers to do the same thing, but it gets really complicated (relays, switches, wires....) and still has some bugs. Several people bought this little box with only 3 wires to connect and mount the box.

Thread on TN
So you say you want a "beep?" - Page 3 - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation

 

I just realized you can rate threads... heh Not sure what it does, but it's up in the right corner near "Thread Tools".

 

Thanks to Demoncleaner on TN for coming up with this.
Homemade Bed extender - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation





Looks like he just measured out the dimensions for some plywood, used a couple hooks to attach to the tailgate latch, and hooked into the D-rings. I believe he has swapped the rope connecting to the D-rings with something stronger.

Also, planning on putting a metal lip over the top to prevent lumber from damaging it. I will try to get some better pics when he stops by to work on that lip.

Edit: Demoncleaner just posted the dimensions and materials used.

 

I already did a write up on this here: Bed Lights w/pics - Tacoma World Forums, but it's a cheap mod so I'll summarize it here. ($63.95 with shipping from the site I bought them.)

This mod is more expensive than putting fog or driving lights in the side pockets by the cab, but cheaper than other LED solutions people have found.

The hardest part is running the wires I think. I found 2 small grommets behind the plastic storage bins behind the rear seats in my DC. The are behind the grey trim pieces that extend behind the storage bins. I ended up running both bed tubes and the passenger side one through the passenger side hole, and the driver side tube through the driver side hole due to cable lengths. All cables require you to remove a philips head screw/nut to open the plugs, take the black plastic case off, and fold the white portion over the wires to fit through the holes. If anyone buys the same kit from VM Innovations - Undercar 4 Piece Car LED Neon Kit WHITE + REMOTE and has questions I can explain things further.

Other than routing the cables, it was a simply install. Self tapping screws and plastic brackets for the ones under the truck, and 2 zip ties for each one in the bed. Just a power and ground wire, and they all work. The box has an on/off button (and pattern change, but I don't use that), plus they come with 2 wireless remotes. So you don't need to wire up any switches (in the bed, or a pin switch on the tailgate like most people do it), and you don't have to look for those switches later. You can turn them on in the cab via the box and dome light, or the remote on your keys as you're walking towards the truck.

Just to recap the pics:



Edit:

Thanks to borderbrat for adding to this!

If you want them to function with the dome light (on with unlock/door open, off with lock/door close) check out his write up!
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/4838-cheap-free-mods-18.html#post297835

 

Waw, this is awesome, tiger. Thank you.

 

You're welcome! I'll keep posting more inexpensive projects as I find them. If anyone else has any, feel free to share! I like things that can be done with spare parts laying around the house or at least fairly cheaply.

 

Any pictures on how you have it wired/switched?

As for the 4wd switch, I think you can get one from a 4Runner that's the same switch, except it's illuminated. When you figure out why, let me know, cuz I haven't figured it out yet....

Edit: Never mind the 4Runner idea... Read below.

 

I did some research and looks like there's a way to light up the 4x4 switch. Looks like it'll cost around $70 + Shipping.

Or order from here: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/68173-rcbs204-4x4-illuminated-switch.html

You need one of these: DIAL-ILLUM - Illuminated 4x4 Dial/Switch fits 2005+ Tacoma 4x4 Parts and Accessories

And then goto:
My 2005 Tacoma Site

Or Maverick's writeup.

You should be able to skip most of the steps in the site above, and go right to wiring up the 2 wires to light up the new dial.

The tacoma site above says to remove the dials to remove the 4wd switch and climate controls. I'm not sure about the 4wd switch, but the climate controls pop out very easily with a butter knife, plastic scraper, etc. Anything with a thin blade that won't scratch the plastic. I've removed mine several times, and there's no need to mess with pulling the dials off.

Looks fairly straight forward:

1. Buy the kit from TRDParts4U (includes illuminated dial and 2 wires to insert into your original 4wd switch harness to contact the power/ground pins for the lights)
2. swap switches
3. plug the two wires in
4. splice into the 2 wires on climate control for powering those lights

You can either solder them to the plug like he did, or use quick splices.

What it should look like when done:


More information here:
Illuminated 4x4 switch - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation

 

I will take a few pics tomorrow. Wired 4 LEDs black to red so I only had one red and one black to connect to the wires leading to the LED in the center consol of the shifter. I used a T spit connector. I also used a saddle switch so that I could turn them off if I wanted and put it snug between the driver seat and the center consol so that it wouldn't be seen

I drilled through and put one in each outside corner and then one on either side on the flat area. This was all done rear side of the cupholder so that you wouldn't see the bulbs. One thing I did do is take 200 grit sandpaper to the front of the LEDs because they were leaving that round flashlight halo on the opposit side of the holder.

I think a different color would look better but I wanted to match the dash.

P.S.
I think the different truck groups of Toyota need to start talking to each other and share ideas!!!! COME ON... a non-illuminated switch!!!