Front Wheel Bearing replacement, 2nd gen 4x4

Thats a seal not the o-ring.

Theres a simple o-ring that seats between the hub assembly and dust shield/knuckle.

I agree you should replace all seals. Usually seals start to go when the bearings go.

 

These are the 2 seals

#1


#2


both of which have metal backs like this


This is the O ring.

 

and you were right

*takes foot out of mouth*

 

I'm tired of all this crap....need to do one good thread and be done with it.

When I'm done with cam tab bs ill do a quick wheel bearing one. it would help if the threads people got "sticky" were actually complete

no offense to OP but TW has 75k + members and this is our official wheel bearing thread that has no complete tool list or a complete part list http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...axle-replace-front-wheel-bearing-2nd-gen.html

 

Where does that o ring live, is it put inside the inner seal? Or is there a groove seat inside the spindel.
I overlooked this part yesterday and think I ripping it apart again.
When torquing the axle nut does the wheel have to be off the ground??

 

Looking for opinions, 2010 Tacoma. 4x4,v6 with 65k miles. Driver side front. I'm hearing a low frequency whining noise that is speed dependent. No vibration, no bearing play. Tough to describe sound, my best attempt is the low pitched sound you get from a hand cranked siren just as start the siren. My thought is the bearing hub assembly but seems too soon. Any thoughts?

 

at 65k miles sounds like not enough for the common front bearing issue problems everybody is having at 80-100k but it could be. Did you just recently switch to a bigger wider tire? that could have cause the bearing to go quicker. If you can find a shop that'l give free estimates on what the problem/noise is would be a good start, then come back here and read about doing it yourself and save $$. There is a real good thread with pictures and step by step on doing that front bearing job just do a search. good luck to ya man.

 

60K sound right to me. Not that they should go bad so soon, but most people including myself have had front drivers side bearing go bad between 55K & 75K . This seems to be normal. I just talked with a guy with a 2012 that told me he replaced his under warranty at 60K.

 

Thanks for getting back to me. My $ is on the drivers side bearing. The tires are original and need replacement within next 10k miles. Wheel turn does not make any difference. No overheating in the hub area, after a 40 drive I was able to touch the hub and felt cool to the touch. The best i can describe the sound is if you use an air hose to spin the inner race bearing and cage (don't do this boys and girls, it could be dangerous). I would like to find a hub/bearing assembly to purchase, I found a company called "Blue Pit Bearings (Bluepitbearings.com)" where they sell the assembly. I cannot find an autoparts store that carries them so I will have to resort to buying a press or finding a friend.

 

No need to buy a press, just remove the hub/bearing assembly and take it and the new parts to a local machine shop to re-press the new bearing for you, cheaper. Save some $$ There is a really good thread around here on doing that job just do a search. The prerunner is even easier to do. good luck to ya man.

 

I have these complete assembly's with Koyo bearing, dorman hub flange, Toyota bolts, Toyota o-ring & national seal for $179 each. that's $100 less than blue pit bearings charges! and I include the o -ring. these are ready to bolt on, remove your hubs and bolt these right on.

I have sold two sets to two members so far. I will put an ad up in the classified section with pictures.

 

...

 

Hey TW members,

First, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this forum. You all really make it easy to tackle these projects.

I'm in the midst of replacing the bearing and man am I running into some issues. The truck has about 100k so rust is slowing me down quite a bit. Right now I'm struggling to get the hub off. It's unbolted (bolts free from the knuckle) and with an hour of prying and beating on it I've only managed to remove it about 3/8 of an inch, I know there's not much left to go but it just won't back off any more. Am I doing something wrong or should I just go grab a heavy slide hammer.

Thanks for any help.

Jeremy

 

The 4 bolts will only back out so far before having to pry the hub and then back out the bolts a little more. once they are completely backed out you just have to work the hub out.

 

Thanks Nj636,

I've backed the hub off far enough to completely unthread the bolts, I guess I just thought it'd start to feel looser this far out. I'll keep prying.

Thank you,

Next time I'm going to order your setups!

 

I have experienced what your going through, once that inner seal goes it let's the elements in and makes it a tough job. I had to use a slide hammer on one. Just keep at it and you'll win in the end

 

The ol' slide hammer did the trick, both sides needed some heavy workin. I dropped them off at my local shop to be pressed. They really didn't look nearly as bad as I was thinking, with the heavy roar I was having...

 

excellent! glad I could help

the good stuff comes out when the hub is pressed out of the bearing