New Exhaust System

I would like to install a new exhaust system in my truck. 2013 PreRunner. It has no new mods yet besides debadging and interior lighting work. Any suggestions on which route I should go as far as price and performance. Really interested in the Dual flowmasters system, Super 50, but I have been reading its a waste. Is it true? I'm not so much into racing, I just want a reliable system that won't be a waste of time and money. Thanks!

 

Long tube headers sound good and are a better performance gain than simply a catback

 

OK I'm going to keep this simple because everyone keeps getting confused.....

Any exhaust mods will only increase power/torque above 3000 RPM, below 3000 rpm it will just sound cool or hurt performance...

So to maintain the most bottom end use stock or smaller pipe and just change the muffler...

Same for the intake, it will increase the power above 3000 rpm.

the trick is to gain power and not loose the bottom....

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/attachments/introductions-new-arrivals/16569d1192723493-hey-guys-515-l-dyno.jpg

Headers are the best exhaust mod you can make but the gains are over 3000 rpm...

so get the loudest muffer you can stand and or headers, intake spacer, air filter, delete the pcv valve and silencer filter and reset the computer.....

Above 3000 rpm the truck will be faster..

Ultimately we will all need a good tuner but the jury is still out....

 

You still spreading this nonsense around ?

Oh Grand Wizard of Exhausts...

 

(this looks strangely familiar... )

My own personal experience is different from yours...
Dyno results showed that torque actually did slightly improve under 3,000 rpms just by changing from the Magnaflow to a Flowmaster.

 

I actually put the TRD exhaust on mine because I got a deal, comparing the factory to the TRD they APPEAR to be the same diameter on pipe and the sound is louder than stock but not obnoxious. The Ol' Butt dyno shows no difference and if I had to do it again I'd get a Borla muffler and tip welded in and call it a day!

 

This is what I'm trying to tell people, just changing out the muffler is the best value unless you want more power at higher RPM...

But you used a smaller pipe for low end, I went to a larger pipe for mid range and we are both happy....
I read tons of post before I did mine and went with the 2 1/2 and it was too big and lost low end but it did accelerate better and hold speed on the hwy much better but towed worse. Adding the spacer made it better from idle... So I'm letting people know that if the want more low end don't go to a larger pipe and just add the muffler you like and if you get larger exhaust add the intake spacer...

And for anyone with no mods and stock exhaust be quiet.... When I was tuning race engines I had the top 5 points holders and both track champions , I know a thing or two...

 

The same pipe was used in both the Magnaflow and Flowmaster dyno tests so that the results would be fair and impartial.


Greg

 

get a muffler u like the sound of.................. weld it to stock pipes.

go up in size of pipes if going f/i

 

Do me a favor, leave the loud exhaust for the garage queen toy and not for the daily driver? I don't want to listen to it...Right now, my 68 Dodge short bed, stepside pickup with holley, headers, glasspacks, stage 1 intake is in daily use with a SIL with a leg in a cast since it is the ONLY automatic we have available...I can hear her coming over a mile away as she gets on the pedal coming up the mountain. That and the 50lb, 18" long siren we put on the truck years ago.

And if I change mufflers on my Tacoma, it will be for a quieter, stainless steel system.

Howard

 

Are you guys neighbors or something?

 

Your results were different than mine because you were tuning for low end with a bigger muffler and smaller pipe and you already had a header and spacer on the 2.7...

I put a larger pipe with a smaller muffler on a almost stock V6... I had to add the spacer to regain low end... Now I think it makes more power from idle to red line. I know it pulls harder and revs quicker. I hope to get to the dyno or drag strip to get some data for people.

I found both header dyno charts... The long tube headers loose 28lbs of torque at 2000rpm but gain 25lbs of torque at 3700rpm. Looks like the short tube headers start making power at 2250 to 4000 rpm.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/performance-tuning/224447-doug-thorley-short-tube-header-dyno.html


I think your next test should be an open pipe for comparison and/or a smaller pipe like 2".... I would think if 2 1/2 is big on the V6 there could be gains going down to 2" on the 4.....

 

The dyno is the only credible way to really know for sure what's going on. Anything short of that is just subjective impressions.

This dyno chart is interesting in that there are no torque gains under 2,700 rpms... and that's giving up a lot just for more top end.



2,700 rpms is over 80 mph on the freeway on my truck.

There's also another difference. The FJ engine has Dual Variable Valve Timing while the Tacoma only has single, so it's going to react differently to any changes.

Greg

 

An 07 FJ has the same engine as the Tacoma. It changed I believe in 2010.

 

Thanks for the heads up.
I only recalled the 4.0 guys here lamenting they didn't have the DVVTI that the FJ guys did.

Greg

 

its got weaker internals IIRC....................dinnertime tho, i gotta go


check xru about the internals

 

Yeah, I think the long tubes are out, might get the short tubes if this pans out...



But I don't know how much more I can get out of the stock computer... Part of the problem is some mods throw the computer off, that's why adding an CAI does so little. I'm at the point where it is running great, much better than stock, so I may leave it alone until I know there is a good controller... On bikes it's easy get a power commander and a laptop... In fact the dyno will map it for you in a couple of runs... It would be nice to have 2 maps like on my bike 1 for mpg and 1 for max power...

 

It is not losing 28lbft of torque. The long tube graph started testing at a higher rpm, thats why there is a huge difference. The engine has to catch up basically.