How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

Nice find!! thanks for providing it.

 

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I found P/N 18491 from NAPA as an alternate to Differential Seal - 710419 (Timken)

 

Nice!

 

Both side on mine are leaking i noticed when i changed my oil yesterday.Both sides have slop.Does anyone think that the pass side diff bearing is bad as well? and is it as easy to install as the egcs bushing. or should i just replace it with an egcs bushing?

 

Kenpachi, what was the symptom of your shaft being bad? I have a vibration coming from passenger side front end. It was verified (without taking anythng apart, that it is not my wheel bearing) Was only told there is no wobble and feels tight. I do not get any abnormal sound when turning. What I do get, is a sound like the engine is reving when applying throttle, perhaps going above 40 ish. Also when down shifting. When rolling out to a stop, in gear or not, it rolls to a stop with this vive, as though the tire vibrating. So its when there is possitive pressure being put on the drive train, or when rolling out to a stop. Almost a grinding sound, yet to a squeeling metal sound. Verified not the clutch, tranny or transfer case, or rear diff....by reputable xmission guy. No difference if in 4wd or not. You can run down the road and turn off truck and there is this slight vibe and this same reving type sound, in neutral or not. Verified alignment and tires in balance. If it is the bearing, thn it'd require weight on wheels, for the sound is not there on a lift, with wheels turning. It's like I'll need something to fall apart, in order to find it and not wanting to be stranded in order to find out. Any thoughts? Thx, DM and sorry if I highjacked your thread. Just figured you or someone may know.
(also manual locks for hubs and no mods ever don to truck)

 

Center bearing was shot and also found rear u-joint slightly binding in spots. Repaired both at home and no more noise/vibe/hum.
Went with Dorman center bearing and Moog u-joint...both at Advance Auto. Total under $80. DM

 

Internet high five! Glad you got it figured out. My wheel bearing was making a grinding noise ging slow speeds and would become higher pitched as I drove faster. It would also go away if I turned in one direction but not the other. It's just one of those things that goes bad with time, and the lifespan is shortened considerably if nodded offroaded etc. I recommend greasing your u joints every oil change and checking fluids. Basic maintenance will show off with time and your truck will last a whole lot longer. Sorry I wasn't able to answer your question quick enough! TW ftw!

 

What is "OE" parts? Im getting ready to replace my CV.

 

"Original Equipment". AKA factory parts

 

Just found this last week. Complete, ready to bolt on replacement wheel hub assemblies. Hope it helps.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...s-4x4-sale-complete-best-price-ever-save.html

 

I still have that same cv joint FWIW. It's not OE, but it's held up to some offroading and 100+ mph on uhhh roads. No problems with AutoZone stuff Here.

 

subd

 

With regard to the hub to bearing assembly interference fit- has anyone ever tried freezing the hub while using an induction heater on the bearing assembly in order to avoid the use of a press? OR does anyone have the OD of the hub shaft? I don't have a press handy and I have trust issues dropping my stuff off.

Thanks

 

Buy a ready to go one from nj636 and be done

 

one of your best posts yet

 

I replaced both of my hubs (nj636's) today. Here are a few tips that I'm pretty sure I didn't see in the prior pages:

1) You don't have to disconnect the tie rod. If you disconnect the sway bar link, and remove the two bolts connecting the lower ball joint to the spindle, the spindle will pivot out of the way so you can pull out the cv shaft.

2) OP apparently didn't have dust shields, so he could hit the hub with a hammer and knock it off. I have dust shields. First I used the "piece of metal between the hub bolt and hub" trick, and that loosened the hub easily. Then I resorted to a three jaw puller, which worked well to remove the hub.

3) I thought I could use a prybar to pop the cv out, but I couldn't get that to work. A slide hammer, which Autozone rents for free, worked pretty well.

 

Oil Seal(s) - ??? There are two on the cv axles, one closer to the differential, the other towards the outside or close to the wheel bearing. The same ones i didn't replace I need part numbers for these.

Can someone assist me on getting the correct seal on rockauto's website? I need the one that is closer to the wheel bearing. Thanks

 

$17 National 710573 Wheel Seal

National 710573

 

I am Interested with this Kind of Stuff and You Have Done a Great Job by sharing ur knowledge with us.