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04 Tacoma Breather Mod - Rerouting everything

Discussion in 'Off-Roading & Trails' started by SkydivingNerd, Jul 2, 2010.

  1. Jul 2, 2010 at 9:50 AM

    SkydivingNerd [OP] New Member

    Jul 1, 2010
    Fredericksburg, VA
    04 Tacoma Ext Cab, Manual, TRD offroad
    OME Heavy up front, OME medium in rear, ARB Bull Bar, IPF amber driving lights, Bed bars, IPF offroad lights, custom towing harness, Breather mod, Cobra CB w/ Firestik NGP,
    I’ve been slowly, but surly, modding my 2004 Tacoma for some offroad fun. I have an 04 Ext Cab Tacoma V6 manual (Lo-Hi shifter, one touch 4x4). I decided to tackle the project of relocating the various breather ports high in the engine compartment. I originally found, and relied heavily on, Shadow-Warrior’s Scuba Mod for his FJ Cruiser (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/of...f-tranny-transfer-case-e-locker-breather.html). I love poking around my truck and wanted to find all the breather ports aside from the rear diff. The Toyota factory manual I found on the internets does NOT show all the locations. For my truck, they are as follows;

    Rear Diff
    Rear Diff E-Locker
    Transmission (x2)
    Transmission to Transfer case (via rubber tube)
    Transfer case to 4x4 actuator (via rubber tube)
    Front Diff (already in located in engine compartment)
    Front Diff actuator (I think. This part looks like an E-locker/actuator, but I could not find it anywhere in the Toyota factory service manual. I have a picture further along in the How-to if anyone knows what it is.)

    15 ft 1/4 fuel hose
    6 ft 3/16 fuel hose
    Toyota Camry Fuel Line Union Part # 90404-51026
    1/4 hose spring clamps (red in pictures)
    7/16 hose spring clamps (blue/green in pictures)
    Zip ties
    Small piece 16ga or 22ga steel
    Can of Rustolem
    1 - 3/16 Y-connector
    2 – 3/16 T-connector
    2 – 3/16 Elbow connector
    Small breather filter
    The filter is made by Spectre, they come in a few different colors and look similar to a K&N. I went with red, part # 3992.

    Utility knife/ Exacto knife
    Thread sealant
    JB Weld 2 part epoxy
    Phillips head screwdriver
    Flat head screwdriver
    Flat head 90 degree screwdriver
    Small crescent wrench

    NOTE: Due to the MacGyver factor of this project, I spent a good amount of time ensuring the parts I used fitted together properly. You should do the same and not take my parts list as a “this will work all the time” list.

    Here are the guts of the project

    Here is the tube from the 4x4 actuator to the transfer case.

    From transmission to transfer case

    Front diff actuator and tube

    Front diff and actuator breather extensions

    The rear diff breather was easily removed with a crescent wrench. I added some thread sealant to the back portion of the new union’s threads so none dripped into the oil when the union was screwed in. I attached the 1/4 fuel line to the rear diff and routed it to the engine compartment. Next, I removed the E-Locker’s rubber tube and fitted some new 3/16 fuel hose and spliced it into the new main line.

    E-Locker port

    Rear diff and E-Locker tied in

    The E-Locker originally had an extension, but it was only routed to the interior of the frame above the rear driver side wheel.


    Attaching the new breather hose to the transmission took a bit of work. Below is a picture of the rear diff breather components.

    The transmission’s ports are a part of the casing. They are not threaded in like the rear diff. However, the transmission ports are copies of the rear diff. To remove the original breather caps that were on the transmission, I wedged an angled screwdriver under the cap and torqued it to deform the cap. I rotated the cap until I had deformed all four sides and it popped off. I obtained two 90 elbows that were slightly larger than the interior diameter of the breather port. The barb was shaved off with a utility knife, then sanded to fit into the breather port. I cleaned the breather ports with a bit of paper towel and Q-Tips. Both were then sealed in place with JB Weld applied only to the first 3mm from the elbow joint. This ensured none of the epoxy dripped into the gears or oil and made a nice “life preserver” of JB Weld around the new port. While the JB Weld was hardening, I spliced into the main breather line and added the junction to the transmission.

    Transmission cap removal

    One down, one to go

    New transmission port

    Both ports welded in place

    Both transmission ports connected after the JB Weld hardened

    Transmission ports 1 and 2 spliced into junction

    And then into the main breather line

    Just as Shadow-Warrior did on his FJ Cruiser, I fabricated a metal bracket to mount the new breather filter on.

    I plan on replacing the transmission to transfer to 4x4 actuator hoses with new fuel hose and clamps. I’m just picky that way. The front diff and actuator are also getting new hose, clamps and getting spliced into the main breather line.

    Blue Skies,
  2. Sep 22, 2010 at 12:49 PM

    davidpick Well-Known Member

    Jan 21, 2010
    First Name:
    Everett, WA
    2004 Xcab 4x4 TRD
    hey man, thanks for this write-up with pics! i just did the rear dif breather last weekend and followed part of this, including using the spectre filter. looks great and it will surely provide some good peace of mind while hitting the deeper water! :) i'll be doing the relocation for the other breathers in the coming weeks, but i just wanted to drop a quick note of thanks for your write-up! :thumbsup:
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