1 Bored Clerk's 2013 TRD OR AC Consolidation Build Thread

I've started several threads on this forum but I just realized I don't have a place to consolidate everything. So that's what this is. Welcome to my truck!

Current build photo





Picking her up from the dealer...March (?) 2013. That's my dad making sure the salesman has his sh*t together. Or vice versa...not really sure.

From here on out, I'll keep everything concise until we're all caught up. I just wanted to post this pic up because my truck has literally not looked this clean and well cared for since this picture was taken.

Mods (mods in bold are currently on the truck):

Inchworm E-Locker Guard - Post #2 - Modified because...reasons

Immryo Mirror Relocation Bracket - Post #3 - See the road ahead again

A-Pillar RAM Mount - Post #4 - Mount stuff that needs mounting

Goodyear Duratrac Tires (Gone and missed) - Post #5 - 265/75 R16 - Really liked these tires!

1BC Custom Sliders - Post #6 - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-bolt-on-frame-plates-for-sliders.302192/

Thule X-Sporter Bed Rack (Sold) - Post #7 - Expensive but VERY awesome and VERY adaptable

Bed Storage (Long Gone) - Post #8 - Handy until you wanted to use the bed

Relentless Skids - Post #9 - Nice stuff...stout.

Exhaust Re-Route - Post #10 - Just do this when you buy skids. It's pretty cheap and makes life better. Unless you like endless, loud, mind-numbing, enraging rattling.

1BC Custom Fridge Mount - Post #11 - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1-bored-clerks-ac-fridge-mount.444149/

1BC Custom Rear Bumper (sold) - Post #12 - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bored-clerks-rear-bumper-build.421454/

Suspension V1.0 (sold) - Post #16 - Fine...it suspended things.

Suspension V2.0 - Post #17 - MUCH improved over V1.0. We'll see how it does with the camper weight.

BFG Mud Terrain KM2 - 255/85 R 16 - work pretty well for everything when siped. However, will likely NOT buy another set.

ECGS 4.56 Gears - Post #18 - So far, So good. Probably should have gone with 4.88 since I'm adding a camper but I can always go down in tire size if needed to get the same effect.

Hypertech Speedo Calibrator - Post #18 - Awesome! Read my post before you install per hypertech, though. You will be sorry if you don't.

Long Range Automotive 34 Gallon Gas Tank - Love the range. Updated backflow valve failed. Now I have a NEW more updated backflow valve that I have yet to install because the install requires the tank to be dropped or the bed to be lifted. Ugh. I'm going to wait until I can get to.my friends shop and use his lift to pull the camper and flatbed up a few feet so I can swap it in.

US Off-Road Winch Bumper - integrates nicely and is well built.

Warn M8000s - Synthetic rope, Warn goodness.

Factor 55 Flatlink - Rudolph-edition Red. Well made. I like it a lot.

1BC Custom Camper Build and UTE Flatbed (Ongoing): Camper is on the truck and has put in some work. Still finishing up details. Check it out! https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1-bored-clerks-garage-built-camper.457359/

1BC Next Custom Rear Bumper - Post #19 - Upgraded the mounts and hardware. Good to go now!
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bored-clerks-next-rear-bumper.504895/

Atlas46 Tool Roll XL - post #20 - Seems really awesome so far. Fits a TON of stuff in a fairly small and very dense package.

RedArc Tow Pro Elite trailer brake controller - Post #23 - Installed! It was a pain to install in a stealthy and still serviceable location but I'm happy with how it turned out. Towing impressions to come!
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/redarc-tow-pro-elite-install-in-2nd-gen.675690/

Maxpedition Pouches - Post #24 - quick and easy pouch install on transmission tunnel. Will update with thoughts on placement and mounting method.

I have a lot more going on but it'll take some time to get it all up to date. I'll keep building as I have time over the next...forever.

 

Inchworm Gear E Locker Guard

I had one of these on my FJ. Peace of mind...I suppose it would do something more than not having it there.


I heard these could make contact with the gas tank on some Tacomas so I got in there and "fixed" it.


Got the file after it so it didn't look like it was chewed on by a rat.


Had it re-powdercoated. Guys at the shop were super cool and did it for free. Said it wasn't worth the paperwork.


Then bolted it up. These things never just bolt on. Gotta get new hardware...that they don't list sizes for. And as a show of solidarity with Inchworm, I will also not tell you what hardware they require. Mostly because I've forgotten. I'll update this if I have that info anywhere.

This was a fairly early mod and it's been on a while now. I've never hit it on anything and it's still blue. That's it. Move along. Nothing to see here.

 

Immryo Mirror Relocator Bracket

Got this almost immediately. With the ever shrinking height of American drivers, things like rear view mirrors are getting dangerously low for us "taller" drivers (5'10" btw). It's legit. Go buy one and end the madness.


Before. Bringing the major suck.


After. Much improved.

I'm not going to post a bunch of photos of the install because it's been done to death on about 126,000 other threads. It's very easy.

 

A-Pillar Ram Mount for GPS or Whatever

I saw this mod right here on TW. Can't remember who did it first on here, but big kudos to them! Here's how I did it, OCD style.


I want it here. It's good here. Put it here.


Carefully pop this off. You don't want to scratch anything...which would be easy to do.


Take this bolt out. Nothing weird happens so don't worry.


This is the general idea. You're using spacers and a new bolt to get the ram ball out far enough to actually be useful. This will replace that bolt you just took out.


See? Adjust spacers/washers until you get it just right for your discerning tastes. You can leave it like this and be happy. Or you can go OCD bonkers and do what I did next


I taped all around the ram ball mount so I could make a template


Yeah...


Then I laid that masking tape template onto the OEM cover and used a drill and a round file to do this. This method gives you the not quite round hole you need in just the right spot.


Assemble everything together before you bolt it on because you can't fit the cover over the Ram ball. Obvious... And, while I was in there, I painted the RAM ball standoff black because I thought I didn't like the silver. This involved trimming some of the flashing from the overmolding process. Turns out I didn't like the black so I sanded it all off and put a nice satin finish on it with a scotch brite pad. Terrible OCD but it made all the difference to me. I'm a delicate flower.


Finished.


There it is! I'm pointing right at it.


Here's a not done photo so you can see the actual apparatus that I put together. Basically the shortest arm I could get and a cradle for a GPS 60CSX (which I can't seem to find anymore). Oh well. A Garmin InReach will work here too.

That's it. It's a very slick and useful location for whatever you want to RAM mount...that's not very big.

When I get more ambitious, I will run the power cable up inside the A-pillar. I'm pretty sure it'll fit. It should be a right pain in the rear but that's how I do.

 

Goodyear Duratracs

After driving around on the factory tires, I decided to upgrade to better winter tires (off-road). I picked up some 265/75 R16 Goodyear Duratracs. I really like these tires. I wish they made them in a comparable size to 255/85 R16. I much prefer them to the BFG KM2's.


I don't want to hear any "Oh, the sidewalls are crap!" wailing either. I drove these tires way harder on much tougher terrain than the KM2's and I've had to replace two KM2's and never had a single issue with the Duratracs. I may end up back on a set of these...we'll see. I may try some of the KO2's...who knows.

 

Thule Xsporter Bed Rack

I needed a way to carry our SUP's and surfboards. At 12'6" and 11'6" for our SUP's, in the bed wasn't happening. Well, it did happen a few times but it wasn't pretty.


See! My wife doing a fine job selling the sanity of a new year's day SUP trip in mid 30's air temps

So, I needed to adapt my wicked old Xsporter rack to this new truck. The problem is that the rack was bought back in 2004 for my dad's 04 Tacoma. I then used it on a 2001 base model 2wd Ford Ranger and a 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level II (manual transfer case!). All of these trucks have something in common: bed rails. Old school, regular, metal bed rails. The rack was made for that. Luckily, Thule made adapters to mount the old Xsporter to the 2nd gen Tacoma tie down rails. The bad news is they discontinued them long before I bought my truck. I looked around to find some used to no avail. So, I made my own conversion out of big ol pieces of angle aluminum.


Here's the aluminum. Ready to be hacked and drilled


I clamped the Thule bases in the mill and cut a few recesses for bolt heads


Drill and tap a few holes and we're in business!


Then I bought some T nuts from McMaster Carr that happened to fit the bed rails perfectly and some GIANT bolts (because the T Nuts had a huge 1/2" threaded hole in them) and finished it up. Pretty easily removable, super sturdy, didn't wreck the racks. #winning


I did have to make a few cuts in the aluminum angle to fit the bed properly but it was nothing a hacksaw and some swearing couldn't handle.


Looking sweet! No matter what truck I've had these on, I ALWAYS got people coming up to me and asking about them. Only when the uprights and crossbars weren't on. Apparently, these are very intriguing to people. Some were suspicious (seriously), all were curious. Weird.


Ready for fun! Honestly, I probably could have left this truck just like it sits here and had years of good fun, adventures and memories. But, I'm a tinkerer so I decided I must spend years and cubic yards of dollars messing it up.

 

Bed Storage

I decided I needed a way to use a giant aluminum truck box I bought of Craigslist. I used it in the back of my Ford Ranger FX4 for a while. It was handy except when I wanted to load my motorcycle. We were planning some trips and I knew the bed box would be handy so in it went. However, I didn't want to drill holes in my bed and I couldn't really access the bottom of the bed to put nuts on bolts so a new approach had to be devised.


Somehow a giant piece of plywood seemed like the right answer (a 5' x 5' piece, actually). Bear with me...


A little more hacky-hacky and we're here!



Sleeves and furniture nuts galore!!


Wait a minute...this is starting to look like something cool...maybe.


Some sealer and paint. Some drilling and bolting and here we are! the plywood is held in using the front four bolts holding the bed to the frame and everything else is bolted to the plywood. It worked really well. I used this for a while until I was tired of the box taking up space.

When I was totally over it, so was the plywood. It had made it through a summer of fun and a winter of rain (PNW). I still have the aluminum in my stash in the garage and the box has been retired from truck duty and has been repurposed


It now has taken up permanent duty as a trusted and loved member of my work bench. It sits on full extension drawer slides and holds all kinds of awesome stuff. I also use the hook pull tag from my Warn winch as a drawer pull. You can see the red tag with WARN written on it hanging out of the drawer to the right of the aluminum box. I LOVE repurposing cool stuff!

 

Sliders

Somewhere around here I started my slider build. On top of that, you can download your own files for bolt on frame plates so you can build your own sliders without having to figure out how to attach them to the truck...and you don't have to weld or drill!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-bolt-on-frame-plates-for-sliders.302192/



Did some custom mods to my skids to tie them into the sliders instead of directly to the frame. We'll get into that in the next post.


Black on black...and iPhone...and inexperience = bad photo. Surprise!


Just doin' what they s'posed ta do.

 

Relentless Skids

I decided I wanted better belly protection than the factory tins could offer. I liked what Relentless had going on so I ordered a full set of steel plates (I'll likely switch to an aluminum front plate eventually). Nicely made. Fit well.


That's a heavy pallet. Trust me.


Just the front skid weighs 58.2lbs. That's why I may switch to aluminum. As my truck starts living a slightly more mild life with regard to wheeling, 1/4" aluminum may be fine. Would be nice to cut about 20lbs off this weight when doing any maintenance that requires the removal of the front skid (front diff is about it) except for major stuff. Plus, less weight when possible is always a good thing.


I fit them all up and made a few clearance mods on the transfer case skid in an effort to stave off any annoying rattles.


Then I got the genius thought to alter how the skids attach to the frame. Their original design has them hooking under the frame and then you drill a hole and put a bolt through there. Well, I'm no frame driller so I did the only thing I know...I fabbed my way out of that pickle! I cut the arm on the Relentless Transfer Case skid and welded on a new bracket. Then did some additional welding on my sliders to get a mating piece. The fasteners are tucked up nice and high out of harms way and I've never had an issue with this. By the way, sliders and skids were a HUGE project because I knew they'd need to be done together. I moved so much steel so many times. My back hurts just thinking about it.


Powder coated and ready for final install! I know, why not just rattle can them? Well, I wanted to make sure the inside of the skids didn't get all rusty and nasty and spray paint sucks. Powder coat is much stronger and I've had zero issues using it. I can always use rattle can on the scratches because it's bare metal there.

Final note on skids: Re-route your exhaust. Don't think you're going to get away without the idiotic low crossover tube on the factory exhaust rattling itself to death on the skid plate. I clearanced and checked and double checked. Nothing rattled on the road. As soon as it took one hit (which that bump will take MANY) it rattled from that day forward...all the time. I even readjusted the skids in the parking lot of a NAPA in Moab. Still didn't help. Do yourself a favor and do it right. Get flat skids and re-route your exhaust. See next post...

 

Exhaust Re-Route

This mod has made the most difference in the 'joy to drive' department. My exhaust crossover was rattling so bad on my skids no matter what I did. F it...solve that problem! I took a picture of what I wanted and a diagram to a local exhaust place (Punk's in Vancouver, WA) and they knocked it out in a day for relatively little money. Exhaust still bolts together just like factory with all of the factory joints and muffler. Easy.


Ta da! I had to do a little clearancing on the skid for the exhaust to run out the back of the skid on the drivers side but it was no biggie. I also had a local shop cut out the bucket in the skids that once protected that foul crossover tube and weld in a patch. I didn't have the time or energy to do it. So, now, not only do I not have rattles...ever. I also hit my skids way less often. That drop down in the skid was the most beat up part of the entire undercarriage. Gone. Don't let the door hit you in the a$$ on the way out! Or do...I don't care.

 

Engle Fridge and Custom 1BC Mount

We were going out on our adventures and using a cooler and ice. It's fine and stuff...I guess. If you like soggy everything. Even if you get clever and use freeze packs or freeze water in flexible nalgene bottles, you still have to deal with running out of cold eventually. I was over it so I bought a 35qt Engle. It's great! But, where was I going to put it. I did some measuring and looked at where we usually have the seats in the truck and decided to put it behind the passenger front seat in the access cab. We would lose a back seat we never use for passengers and we would lose recline on the passenger seat...which we nearly never use. We decided the tradeoff was worth it. Why the passenger side? Because that's typically the camp side of the truck. It's also the curb side of the truck which makes small town grocery stop load-ups easy. No standing in the street or on the opposite side of the truck in regular campgrounds...which we do use. Not everything is dispersed camping in BFE.

Here's the thread I started on that little gem: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1-bored-clerks-ac-fridge-mount.444149/


Mock up time! Foam core and hot glue to the rescue. All that model making training in design school really paid off here. I also mocked up the interior volume to see if that looked like it would be enough for our uses. It did.



Use existing attachment points for the bottom of the jump seat. Use what Toyota gave you whenever possible!


There happens to be a threaded nut directly behind the carpet right where that mount is on the right side of the photo. I just used an awl to open up a hole in the carpet to run a bolt through. Again...using what's there. Also, there is a threaded nut directly behind the mount on the left of the photo. That spot happens to be behind the center storage cubby dealy in newer AC Tacomas.


Additional bracing bolted in. Not sure if this is necessary but it's there now and I ain't ever taking it back out.

One, two, skip a few steps...

All the details are in the actual thread. Fridge is mounted to the plate via an Engle slide lock. The fridge feet fit a little loose and it rattles around a bit. Not enough for me to fix yet but I'll probably look into it soon. The mount I made is rock solid! I like that I still have all that floor space to use for other goodies.

 

1BC Custom Rear Bumper

In preparation for my first camper build, I decided to design and make a dual swing-out, high-clearance rear bumper. Lots of work and time. Learned a ton!

Build thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bored-clerks-rear-bumper-build.421454/

 

Damn man your truck is bad ass. White might be the best color for the taco... btw what do you for a living that you learned all those mad fab skills? looks clean.

 

Nice work, I'll be following along.

 

Thanks! Building stuff is mostly fun...most of the time.

I'm an Industrial Designer (product design). Both of my parents were active tinkerers/hobbyists. One an engineer/machinist, one a home and yard improvement enthusiast. Both jumped in with both feet. I learned a lot growing up in that environment and the rest I picked up along the way; community ed classes, self-taught/school of hard knocks, and some in design school.

Here's my basic workflow:

Idea! --> Dive in --> Start sinking --> Doggie paddle to shore --> start over with better idea!

'Doggie paddle to shore' is where I pick up any so-called 'skillz' I may or may not have. Also critical to keep in mind; whatever you don't know how to do, YouTube does!

And, since I'm on a pseudo-motivational rant, I heard a great quote from Denzel Washington (from his grandma, I believe) that he dropped at a graduation speech he gave for some college grads: "To get something you never had, you've got to do something you never did."

 

Suspension V1.0

I wanted some lift as dragging my belly on EVERYTHING got a little old. I also thought, heck, I don't need anything fancy so I got:


Bilstein 5100's with OME 885X springs up front. Assembled by Wheeler's Off-Road. I also picked up the wheeler's 3 leaf HD add a leaf setup for the rear. Everything bolted up just fine and it was quiet but the rear suspension sucked...just like I read about a million times. They add-a-leafs made the ride very stiff (loaded or unloaded) and could support a decent amount of weight...until you actually hit a bump. Then the rear end would just crash to the bumpstops. Super stiff to nothing at all. I rolled this way for a while. Loaded up and took a trip to the Lake Tahoe area.


Loaded up and ready for fun! This is actually on Icehouse RD heading to The Rubicon.


Up in the hills above Lake Tahoe on one side and Genoa on the other side. Used to come up here with my dad when I was a kid to hunt for grouse. Hadn't been back in 20 years.


Just toolin' around on dusty dirt roads in the hills. Love it!

Overall, the suspension was "fine". However, I wouldn't recommend an add-a-leaf...just like most people say. It's just a bandaid. And not a good one at that. Get a full spring pack and be happy. And save time, effort and money along the way.

 

Suspension V2.0

I had added enough weight and was DONE with the rear spring setup so I did a decent upgrade all the way around


I swapped out the 5100/885X front end for 5100/887. The 887 springs are longer than the 885X (and the 886) but they have the same spring rate as the 885x. So, they ride a little higher without the jarring ride the 886 can give. Generally, this is a good stock+ suspension. It's not very refined but it's still miles ahead of the factory TRD OR stuff and it still maintains a factory like maintenance regimen...which is to say no maintenance. I would love to get some Icon front coilovers but these will have to die first. Then, i'll consider it...


I also upgraded the rear springs to a full All-Pro Apex pack. This is how they arrive. TONS of stickers that need to be removed and lots of adhesive to take off. Use 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover. It is BY FAR the best adhesive remover I've ever used and it has been safe on every surface I've ever used it on (but test to make sure). I spend tons of time cleaning these up and repainting them. They come completely chipped up because they weight a ton and ship UPS just like you see here.


All cleaned up and painted. I wrestled them in to place. And I do mean wrestle. These are beastly! The install was easy and straightforward for me except for the sheer weight to deal with.


I also picked up the U-Bolt Flip, Timbrem Bump stops and Fox shocks (to get enough travel for the springs). Everything was kind of funky to put together. The order in which you do everything is critical and the U-bolt nuts can only be tightened by using a crow's foot because the bump stop base plate gets in the way. I was not super impressed with this. Plus, the bump stop is upside down and will fill with water/dirt and will rust out the fastener in the bottom. I don't plan to do anything about it until the day it falls off (which will probably be never) but it's still a little weird. Anyway, it's all together and I'm pumped! I hop in and go to take it for a spin and...SQUEAK!...any movement in the truck AT ALL and...SQUEAK!...Squeak, squeak, SQEAK...all. the. time. I was pissed. I talked to All-Pro and I tried everything they said and nothing worked. So, they sent me a completely new set of springs and u-bolts and offered to refund my money completely on the spring pack for this and another issue which I'll outline next). I thanked them for the offer and how awesome they were being about everything then declined the refund. They did pay all the shipping both ways and a discount for my hassle, though. I don't feel right about not paying for something I'm actually going to be using in most cases. Anyway, another set of spring showed up and looked just like the first set. I cleaned all the stickers and adhesive off but skipped the painting step. F-it. I'm not doing it. Back under the truck, take it all apart and drop the old springs. It was immediately clear what the problem was with the squeaking. The military wrap around the front spring eye was ever so slightly to big in diameter and was rubbing the inside of the spring mount under the frame. You could NEVER see it from any vantage point but I could sure see it when I pulled them out. Put the new springs in and everything has been silent since!

When I first ordered all of this from All-Pro, everything seemed fine. Then I heard nothing...and nothing...and nothing...for weeks. So, I email...nothing. Email again...nothing. A few more weeks. Then I call and talk to a person who will have someone get in touch with me...nothing. Call back, same story, then...nothing. This is something like two months at this point. I finally get a hold of someone with actual answers and I get the 'next week' answer...nothing. Call again...two week...nothing. Im REALLY PISSED at this point. Then I get the real answer: the spring vendor wasn't delivering and All-pro is getting f'd by them but they can send my their control set of springs (the ones they know are perfect and can compare new batches with). I say..."well, no, it's okay...keep those (because I want them to be able to verify my new pack is right) and just send me the new ones in a couple of weeks when they should be available. So, I finally got my springs...too late for my Tahoe trip but I still got them. It turns out they were the squeaky ones. So, yeah, these were fun. All-pro was extremely apologetic and bent over backward for me getting this sorted. They are a good company and I just happened to be the guy that everything fell apart on for a while. Funny, I'm almost always that guy with 'great companies'. I've learned to be pretty reasonable about it because it happens so often to me.

That was a long story but I thought it was worth sharing. Every company F's up now and again. How they handle the F up is how they should be judged (unless they ONLY F up). All-pro handled it very well.

Oh, I also picked up front wheeler's superbump stops. They are great. I've not had any harsh bottoming from either end of the truck. I also put on some SPC upper control arms. Also sweet. They allowed me to have my alignment dialed in just right, including placement of the wheel in the wheel well (forward as much as possible with as much caster as possible) so my 255/85 tires clear everything under all conditions. Also no squeaks or any other BS to deal with. Love it.

 

ECGS 4.56 Gears

Bigger tires meant lower gears. Didn't want to learn how to do set up gears myself and make expensive mistakes so I ordered a new 3rd and clamshell from ECGS with the clamshell bushing and rear solid spacer. This install has been documented very well on this forum and I followed those threads closely and had no issues...except one. Remember how I was 'the guy' that always gets the 'that's never happened before' or 'that's impossible' or whatever else from a company. So too was it to be with ECGS.


Here are my new third and clamshell! No photos of the rest of it. As I mentioned, it's been done on this forum and I couldn't do a better job so go read those other threads if you want to do this at home. It's work but it's easy to understand and relatively simple to do.

So, back to my story! I got my gears all swapped out and was ready to start breaking them in. Instantly noticed a very slight whine from the rear end. I drove around a little more...more whine. A little more and a little faster...way more whine. Ugh. Called ECGS and talked to the guy who built my third. He said it was set up right and that sometimes these whine a bit. I said, 'No...not acceptable'. Then he said, 'well, we're selling so many of these that our usual gear supplier can't keep up and we had to get gears from someone else and some of those have been whining'. Ahh, I see. So, I said I want a new third built up with the other companies gears and I'll wait for it. Okie dokie...done deal. A little while later, my new rear third showed up and I installed it...again. I'm pretty good at rear-third and leaf spring swaps now.

New gears are quiet and have been since day one. Considering how the truck feels now with my armor and tires and knowing I'm going to add a camper, I would have gone 4.88. I didn't know and I'm not changing them again. I'll go down a little in tire size if I feel like it's necessary. I don't speed around much and I'm not afraid to be in 4th on the hills.

Oh, I also added Hypertech speedo calibrator! I didn't like my speed being off by a crap ton so I fixed it. Took a little fiddling but it's dead on perfect now. It's not a plug in calibrator, you have to take the dash apart a bit (get behind the instrument cluster) and plug the calibrator inline with the instrument cluster harness. No cutting/splicing; it just plugs in. You have to be careful because the calibration cable should be left plugged in (I zip tied and taped it to the calibrator so it wouldn't fall out) because you can't make changes without that cable and if you use the setting it recommends for your gears and tires, you will be off by a mile. Zip tie the cable to the board then zip tie that whole thing to a spot behind the instrument cluster. Run the cable down into the little change drawer by your left knee. I haven't touched it since I got my speed dialed but I used it several times to get there. Expensive mod but so worth it to me.

 

Bumper is finished up!


No license plate in this photo but it mounts right above the hitch on the nice flat area that looks suitable for a license plate. I dig it. It's simple, easy to make and looks great...to me.

 

Atlas46 Tool Roll XL

With the underbed boxes I’m making for my flatbed, I have to ditch traditional toolboxes. I found Atlas46 and picked up one of their Tool Roll XLs


I was able to put about 90% of what was in my giant tool box into this roll.


It rolls up nice and tight and small. Looks to be really well made and should pack nicely in my boxes. I still have some tools to store that we’re too long to fit in here but that’s not a big deal. I like to keep a big pry bar, and three different hammering options. I’ve actually used the prybar and big ass hammer to help a garbage truck driver fix his chains so I’ll keep them around.