1st Gen A/C System Replacement How-To (Seized Compressor)

Oh I gotcha. I just priced out the evap, compressor, EV and condenser and it was $30 cheaper on Amazon. Just make damn sure what you are getting is legit.

 

That compressor is identical to factory down to the last detail. They come with a bit pf pressure to prevent intrusion of anything while it sits on the shelf. The valve core under the gray cap in the "blank" shipping plate is the same size as the service valves on the truck. It does come with both line o-rings and the plate seal. The receiver also comes with o-rings.
It is a heck of a price and a very satisfying part to buy. Fun to just look at it on the bench. It's complete, neat, compact, hefty, kind of a shame to bury it on the truck.

 

Had my system evacuated Friday.
Replacing the Compressor, condenser, drier, and expansion valve tomorrow. All Denso except for the condenser.

I’m a bit conflicted about the oil. The Denso comes with oil and says to drain both and match the volume of the new with the old. But I only got about 30ml. That’s far less than stated in this tread. I’m also curious if I should add any to the evaporator since it’s gonna be reused.

If anyone could explain what I should do and why I’d really appreciate it.

 

Were you turning the clutch while dumping the oil?

No need to add oil to evap if reusing. I would say you need 80-100cc of oil in the compressor. If only 30cc came out then that's low. Not sure why you're replacing but if it grenaded or got noisy then that's probably why. Supposedly the compressor leaks a slight amount of oil over time in order to lubricate the shaft seal. I'm not sure if that applies to these compressors, or if so, how much that equates to over a long period. But I would not "match" the amount of oil if it's that low. It's better to have a little more oil and maybe some decreased AC performance than to have too little and decrease the life of the components. When I spilled the oil out of my old compressor even while turning the clutch, only 15cc came out. I dumped the oil from the new one and 100cc came out. I added back in 100cc of PAG 46 with ICE (supposedly a lubricity additive) oil into the new compressor and it's been great, quiet, and cold/ in spec.

According to Denso, approx 40-50% of the oil in your AC system resides in the compressor, the total amount of oil in a Tacoma AC system is 229cc.

Check out my thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-compressor-how-much-oil-to-add.551444/page-2

 

Ah yes, ac work. God I hated it.

Don't forget new o-rings and add nylog to them.

 

I was trying to turn it. It’s tough to do holding the compressor with one hand and turning the clutch. Gets heavy quick.

The reason why I’m changing is when the clutch engaged it wobbled. Even though the pulley turns true at all times. The only time it didn’t wobble was when I gave it enough RPM. It was weird.

Looking at the compressors side by side the clutch gap on the old one is bigger. I suppose it’s possible a previous owner changed the clutch and messed up, or the spacer wore out. Rather than deal with a bits in the system after a failure or attempting to just change the clutch I just go a new one. It’s about time anyway at 120k.

 

I gotcha. Well I would be on the conservative side when adding oil but I would still put in 60-80cc of oil into the new one. Then just follow the specs for the FSM when replacing the other components.

 

Oh. And I got 75ml of oil out of my new Denso compressor. I guess I’ll still add 100ml?

 

Same here, went with 100.

 

I think you'd be good with that. 80-100cc.

 

Ended up going with 110 in compressor. Added 45 to condenser, 20 in drier, and just poured a little into the original evap. Might have a little too much. Should be okay I guess

 

That should leave 54 cc left in the system so if you only put a little in the evap you should be good.

 

Shit. I just measured what I had left over in a 8oz bottle. 100ml. Unless this stuff sucks in humidity being left out in a cup most the day somethings up.

 

No you are fine. That oil does soak up moisture quite fast though (which isn't good). Don't add any more.

 

So the OP mentioned that he didn’t close the manifold gauges when checking for leaks. Only the vacuum pump. The first time around I vacuumed down and closed the manifold then the pump. No leak for 30min.

Next I did exactly that OP did except this time I get a pretty quick leak. Probably in less than 5 minutes it would be at zero. How do I know this is the truck and not the manifold or pump?

I replaced every o ring and oiled each one. I didn’t hulk anything down either. It seems like it would almost have to be a pinhole in the brand new condenser or old evaporator for it to leak down that fast.

 

If you have a UV dye in your system you might have to check and see if there is a leak that way. Seems odd to me. Maybe get a shop to do a pressure test and see if they can come up with the same results

 

Not 100% sure but it would have to be the pump. The fact that you get any reading at all on the high side with the valve closed and charging tells you that you do get accurate readings with both sides set closed. Or at least I think so. I went ahead and charged it anyway. If I have an issue I’ll have to take it in. I was getting 50 degrees when all done.

 

50F idling or driving? Should be getting in the 40s

 

Both. I’ll have to check it again tomorrow. I don’t know that the deal could be.

 

Might be too much oil or not enough R134... what was ambient temp at the time? What tool are you using to read temp? Checking from center vents?