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2017 Tacoma won’t start - because tail lights?

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Jasonalex28, Jan 22, 2019.

  1. Jan 22, 2019 at 2:05 PM
    #21
    5nahalf

    5nahalf I build dumb things

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    Oh, well then, brake pedal switch, unplug it and check with your multimeter. Should show open when not applied and have continuity when applied.
     
  2. Jan 22, 2019 at 2:07 PM
    #22
    salmonmigration

    salmonmigration Well-Known Member

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    How do you know this? It pops up on the screen saying "apply brake"? Describe what else is happening.

    Really though you probably ain't going to get this problem diagnosed here. You shouldn't have blown a fuse unless something got screwed up. I would recommend taking it to a mechanic you trust or the dealer failing that.
     
  3. Jan 22, 2019 at 2:38 PM
    #23
    tallpilot

    tallpilot Well-Known Member

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    Wiring diagram? Scan tool? I agree a likely cause is the brake pedal switch signal is not getting to the ECU. We could confirm that with live data or with a test light / multi meter. Much easier to trace wires with a diagram. Pretty sure somebody posted one here.
     
  4. Jan 22, 2019 at 2:41 PM
    #24
    Jasonalex28

    Jasonalex28 [OP] Member

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    Lights are assembled. I try to start it and this message comes up

    20DC2095-3E86-4A30-B8AA-E7B496022527.jpg
     
  5. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:00 PM
    #25
    Jasonalex28

    Jasonalex28 [OP] Member

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    The car says ignition on. But does not try to crank . Break lights still don’t work

    3CB97565-31BF-4D84-B0D1-387049209735.jpg
     
  6. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:12 PM
    #26
    JasonLee

    JasonLee Hello? I'm a truck.

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    Threads like these make me scared to buy any newer vehicles that owners have worked on.
     
    Tullie D, erics, Skidog1 and 3 others like this.
  7. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:20 PM
    #27
    wtjl240

    wtjl240 Well-Known Member

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    Have you checked your ignition fuse? Do your turn signals work?
     
  8. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:27 PM
    #28
    Jasonalex28

    Jasonalex28 [OP] Member

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    Yes the turn signals work
     
  9. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:29 PM
    #29
    wtjl240

    wtjl240 Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 22, 2019
  10. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:36 PM
    #30
    Jasonalex28

    Jasonalex28 [OP] Member

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    Yes the turn signals work
    Do you mean unplug the break pedal connector and use the miltimeter there?
     
  11. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:43 PM
    #31
    5nahalf

    5nahalf I build dumb things

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    Yes, also test the wires that you unplug too.
     
  12. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:44 PM
    #32
    Jkdean4557

    Jkdean4557 Well-Known Member

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    Grounder?
     
  13. Jan 22, 2019 at 3:46 PM
    #33
    Rob Daman

    Rob Daman The Taco Formerly Known as Hard Shell Taco

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    a lot
  14. Jan 22, 2019 at 4:38 PM
    #34
    Umrunner

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    Do yourself a favor, and look into what you shifted when you moved your bed, and/or find a way to pull codes or some real scan data. See what the cause for override is. Don't just keep guessing. Electrical gremlins are no fun, and easily made worse by using a DMM without knowing how. The smoke capsule inside all vehicle modules is easy to set off.
    And if you don't know pony up for someone to fix it.
    -the guy who fixes "it" for a living
     
    tallpilot and AugustusJack like this.
  15. Jan 22, 2019 at 4:44 PM
    #35
    brich999

    brich999 Well-Known Member

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    Obviously different experience(experiment?) but these trucks are sensitive. I put in led brake light bulbs and lost my accelerator after braking because car thought both were being pressed. Glad I was gentle swapping them I guess
     
  16. Jan 22, 2019 at 5:05 PM
    #36
    Jasonalex28

    Jasonalex28 [OP] Member

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    The truck starts! It was a bad fuse under the hood.

    Now my break lights and turn signals work, but my rear running lights don’t work.

    Any ideas?
     
    Parker315 likes this.
  17. Jan 22, 2019 at 5:32 PM
    #37
    wtjl240

    wtjl240 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome! Sounds like another fuse is blown
     
  18. Jan 22, 2019 at 5:38 PM
    #38
    SgtPuddin

    SgtPuddin Well-Known Member

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    Mine wouldn’t start because my taillight got water in it and shorted out popping the fuse. Dumbest thing I’ve ever heard of. Took me two hours to figure it out.
     
  19. Jan 22, 2019 at 5:59 PM
    #39
    comptonmike

    comptonmike New Member

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    Had the same problem when I swapped aftermarket taillights. The security system detected a slight electrical surge and interpreted it as a theft attempt. The dealer covered it under warranty. They had to replace 2 fuses and recalibrate the security system. I did not mention the taillight swap and said I didn't know what happened. Hope this helps.
     
  20. Jan 22, 2019 at 6:11 PM
    #40
    513Mugsy

    513Mugsy Well-Known Member

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    I know from my dad's 2008 FJ Cruiser, that the newer canbus wiring is very sensitive to voltage drop or surge. All that he did was tap the backup light wire for turning on an aftermarket backup camera. Put it all together, and it all worked great in the garage. But when he left for dinner that night he reversed out of the garage so it automatically turned on the camera for maybe 30 seconds. Well in that time, the ECU saw the voltage drop, and turned off the alternator so it would not charge. So as he was driving to dinner it was draining the battery to the point that he almost died on the hwy. Needless to say, the stealer was the only answer he had.

    They removed the camera wiring, and wired it directly to a switch off the battery. Replaced his "gapped" harness and reset the ECU, to turn everything back to normal. No problems since. The mechanic said that his setup would of worked on any wiring harness that wasn't a canbus setup.

    So in your case maybe you should raise up the bed on some spacers and check out all the wiring for pinches, rubs, and chafing... Great looking truck by the way!
     

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