2TR rebuild

That's what's really tipping me off about the timing

 

The 2TR is known to backfire every so often, at least mine does and a few others on here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2011-2-7l-occasional-backfire-on-startup.157134/

How does ignition timing affect compression? Have you checked to see if there is raw fuel on the plugs after turning it over? Still wondering about the fuel pump.

 

That's why I went on to add that it's not building compression. Fuel pump is now working and have fuel flowing through the fuel rail. Also double checked and we do have spark. I think the cams are just not set right in reference to the crank.

 

If the valves are not fully closed it cannot build compression.

 

Yeah, I'm a dummy, thought we were talking about ignition timing.

 

So the timing was set wrong or the chain was wrong. Anyway it ended up bending valves on 1 and 3 and had 0 compression. Replaced those and got a new chain, set everything right and it runs. It's super weak on startup and shows that it's at operating temp even when it's stone cold. Those are the only two issues left to fix. Drove it 30 miles already.

 

So it feels like it has no power trying to take off and is overheating. If it's not one thing it's another with the dang thing.

 

Just read this whole thread. Holy jeez I'm not approaching water in my truck anymore

 

This whole thread is a PSA. Don't be dumb like me. Go wheeling when it's dry.

 

Looking back at the beginning, man did I sound dumb. Sure learned a lot through this whole process. Still not out of the woods yet though

 

So temperature gauge still doesn't work. It shows operating temp even when it's stone cold. Gotta figure that out. Hopefully I don't have to buy a new sensor because $50 for something so small bothers me. And I am going to look into the cooling issue today. Thinking the radiator could be clogged up from sitting empty for 5 months and rusting up. Will know more when I deside to fool with it.

 

Also read operating temp when the coolant was obviously boiling.

 

Sensor is damaged or the plug. Does the needle drop when the key is moved from the ignition?

 

This thread makes me want a snorkel

 

When the key is off it drops to the bottom like normal. Turn the key on even when cold and it shows opporating temp.

 

If you unplug the temp sensor, what does the gauge read with the ignition on?

 

The sensor is electrical correct? It should be a simple resistance sensor.
Check the resistance, you should be able to find the correct specs online.

 

Unplug as in disconnect?
It should stay at the default "0" (all the way down) and possibly throw a CEL.

 

I know what it should read, I'm asking him what it DOES read with the sensor unplugged / disconnected. One does not equal the other.

 

I won't have time to mess with it till at least Tuesday so until then I do not know.