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3rd Gen JBL upgrade - round 2

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by kenrickv, Aug 29, 2016.

  1. Aug 29, 2016 at 6:51 PM
    #1
    kenrickv

    kenrickv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I thought I would start my audio build thread before I actually begin. I'll add more info once I actually get started. My goal is to retain the factory HU but upgrade the speakers including a more powerful amp. I'd like to give a shout out to @JasonT87 for his excellent JBL thread and the member contributions found there in. @Mr Marv for his excellent knowledge and technical support. A special thanks to @bear263 and @1sttruckguy78 for their help in working through some issues.

    A list of threads for information and inspiration...
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-jbl-upgrade-they-didnt-want-you-to-have.433277/
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-bbp-audio-build.430252/
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anyone-upgrading-their-2016-tacomas-speakers.400827/
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-tailgate-lock.393110/

    Part of my criteria for this upgrade was to eliminate or minimize any cutting or tapping of factory wires. Needless to say if a plug-n-play solution is out there then I was not able to find it. I think ********* may have an option for the JBL system but after talking with Mr Marv I decided to work with him. Can't say enough about @Mr Marv as I'm sure plenty of members will attest to.

    From Mr Marv's group buy I ended up with Hybrid Audio Unity 6.5 components for the front and Mirus 6.5 coaxial for the rear. Hybrid Audio Clarus 10" sub with a Mr Marv special enclosure and amp rack. To power this setup I got the ARC Audio xdi-850 5 channel amp.


    I ended up with the LC8i to interface with the factory amp and sum the front door and tweeter signals for a full range front signal. I researched quite a bit before going this route. My thought process was to not cheap out on the processor and actually undo the factory applied signal processing. My short list was the Audison Bitone or the JL Fix-86 & TWk-88 setup. Both were about $750ish range but the LC8i at $150 and simplicity finally won the debate. I figure I can always upgrade later if needed.

    My next focus was the harness. After learning how to depin the connectors (I forget which thread discussed this off the top of my head) and finding the female connectors from the dealership I formed a plan. The 10 and 12 pin connectors (90980-10801 and 90910803) from the dealership are reasonable at $10ish a piece. Where they get you is in the pins and wires at $8ish each. For a project that needed 20 wires this got expensive real quick. There are a couple online sources for cheaper but still it adds up. I used the Toyota generic stereo harness (70-1761 and 71-176 from Metra) for the pins and wires and at least the 10 pin male connector to interface back into the factory harness. I created a jumper harness to test and it worked. Note that the Metra pins are a loose fit in the OEM female connectors.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    The 12 pin male connector was difficult to find. Thanks to @bear236 who pointed me to autoharnesshouse.com, I was able to find what I needed to include a 10 and 12 pin male and female . After re-pinning the connectors per the wiring diagram, my plan is to have a plug-n-play harness from the factory amp to the LC8 for signal and from the ARC amp to the factory harness out to the speakers. The custom harness will also let me use the power and ground from the factory harness to the factory amp. When /if I run new speaker wires I can break the speaker connections to the factory harness. Another option I considered was to run new power and ground and bypass the factory harness altogether.


    PIC HERE

    Since the factory amp will be relocated, I thought maybe a 24 pin jumper harness would be helpful. I had a AX-TOYCAM3 harness left over from an aftermarket HU install on a Scion FR-S that was 24 pin male and female already wired. I tested it between the factory amp and harness. It worked so I have about 12 inches to work with to relocate the factory amp. Added bonus is now I can splice the harness for the amp turn on signal (pin 12 on the 24 pin connector. You'll notice the RCA video connectors... as this harness is to retain or add a backup camera. These are connected to complete the harness. I've contacted autoharnesshouse.com to see if they have a solution.

    image.jpg

    My plan currently is to install the sub/box and amp integrated into the factory system. Once that is working then I will work on the speakers as I get time. I'll add more info once my gear comes in and I get started.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2016
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  2. Aug 29, 2016 at 7:04 PM
    #2
    Man of Steel TRD

    Man of Steel TRD Ignorance is the new normal

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    Nice plan man. You have really put a lot of thought into it. I'm glad I was able to help you out. Can't wait to see it all done. Oh and uh.....

    :worthless:

    :boink:
     
  3. Aug 29, 2016 at 7:08 PM
    #3
    kenrickv

    kenrickv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got a couple up... more once I get into it when the gear gets here. :anonymous:
     
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  4. Aug 29, 2016 at 9:16 PM
    #4
    Man of Steel TRD

    Man of Steel TRD Ignorance is the new normal

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    That's awesome those harnesses work. Are they the same ones as the non jbl?
     
  5. Aug 30, 2016 at 3:58 AM
    #5
    kenrickv

    kenrickv [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Not sure about the nonJBL. I would guess there is a 10 and 6 pin as well as a 24 and/or 28 pin behind the stereo but I don't know for certain.
     
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  6. Aug 30, 2016 at 6:40 AM
    #6
    Man of Steel TRD

    Man of Steel TRD Ignorance is the new normal

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  7. Aug 30, 2016 at 6:15 PM
    #7
    bear263

    bear263 Well-Known Member

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    @kenrickv, glad I could help. Anything I can help with give me a shout.
     
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  8. Jul 10, 2018 at 7:19 PM
    #8
    WarpedAlien

    WarpedAlien Active Member

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    Is there a wiring diagram for the JBL system or did you create one? I would really appreciate it if you had one and could scan it in and send it to me. Though I am working on finding direct replacement speakers for the JBL system. I would like to pursue other options in case I never find a 2.5 inch 2 ohm dash speaker.
     
  9. Jul 10, 2018 at 10:45 PM
    #9
    Purpleman

    Purpleman Well-Known Member

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    Screw nuts, wire nuts, or whatever they're called, should never be used in a vehicle. Connectors you can crimp or Soldering is the way to go.
     
  10. Jul 10, 2018 at 10:53 PM
    #10
    OriginalMan

    OriginalMan Well-Known Member

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    That image looks like my electrical panel at home.
     
  11. Jul 11, 2018 at 6:11 AM
    #11
    badhabit2break

    badhabit2break Well-Known Member

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    You could have went with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 and used the maestro harness aTO3 and skipped the OEM all together. DSR1 is $250 and the aTO3 is $30.

    DSR1 uses BT to a phone or tablet to setup and change settings.
     
  12. Jul 11, 2018 at 7:43 AM
    #12
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    This
    This
    This all day!

    Wire nuts are made for solid core wire in a static environment. NOT suitable for use in a moving vehicle with stranded wire!
     
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  13. Jul 11, 2018 at 8:13 AM
    #13
    badhabit2break

    badhabit2break Well-Known Member

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  14. Jul 11, 2018 at 12:59 PM
    #14
    Man of Steel TRD

    Man of Steel TRD Ignorance is the new normal

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    I didn't post that
     
  15. Jul 12, 2018 at 10:56 PM
    #15
    Purpleman

    Purpleman Well-Known Member

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    I was buzzed and a little lit....My guess is, I was going to reply to your question about the harness's(70-1761 and 71-1761), but then the wire nuts distracted me. And I somehow was able to delete his "quote" and kept your "quote" with his pic.
     
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