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4.10 gears and 33's

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Volcom21, Feb 17, 2012.

  1. Feb 18, 2012 at 4:05 PM
    #61
    chadderkdawg

    chadderkdawg Don't ask questions you don't want the answer to..

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    How much did that set you back?
     
  2. Feb 18, 2012 at 5:34 PM
    #62
    commando

    commando Well-Known Member

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    $1350.00. Parts and Labor. Check out the link in post #7. It's all there.
     
  3. Feb 18, 2012 at 6:20 PM
    #63
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    I ran 35s on a CJ7 with 3.73 gears. It had a stick with no OD. I got 10 mpg city or highway. The engine was so under powered I had to floor it off the line to get moving... then with no OD and 15.5" wide super swampers and aerodynamics like a brick I got 10 mpg highway. A friend with a CJ7 with different 35" mud tires and 4.56 gears got better mileage by 3 mpg. Regearing is your friend. You may not see much improvement on the highway but your overall mileage WILL improve going to 4.11 if you run 33" or larger tires.
     
  4. Feb 19, 2012 at 7:30 AM
    #64
    Sprink669

    Sprink669 Well-Known Member

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    I have 33's with stock gears and tow a 12ft aluminum trailer with 2 snowmobiles and would love to get some more power back when towing. I had a XJ with 33's and 4.56 gears ARB's and it was a tad over geared but off road it was great. I am going to scour the pull a parts for a 4cyl 4x4
     
  5. Feb 29, 2012 at 9:28 AM
    #65
    commando

    commando Well-Known Member

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    Update: I got my true mileage figured out!

    For every 10 miles actually traveled my odometer registers 9.2 miles. This was figured by driving on the interstate and checking my miles against the milepost markers.
    So, I have a correction factor of about 8.6682%

    On my last fill up, I got 16.25 MPG. This was mostly highway miles, but included a little bit of 4X4-ing around in the snow.

    On my last woods run, I got 13.5mpg. This was almost all cruising slow in the woods, with a LOT of 4X4 use in the snow, and a little bit of highway time.

    At 65mph my rpm's are right around 2100-2150 rpm's.

    Hope this helps.
     
  6. Apr 15, 2012 at 12:19 PM
    #66
    Blkturbo!

    Blkturbo! Well-Known Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Downsouth UCAs, rear Icon "2.5" shocks and Toytec single AAL. Still gotta do exhaust, dark headlights and re-gear the rear diff.
    So, if I'm reading this thread correctly, and not missing something, the only places to get 4:10s for my '08 Sport/2WD/Auto is either from the dealership or used from someone's 4cyl truck??? I want to reagear this thing once and for all!
     
  7. Apr 15, 2012 at 1:02 PM
    #67
    carcharias

    carcharias Giggiddy what what

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    I don't know much about this topic, but I do know this:
    http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/
     
  8. Apr 15, 2012 at 5:46 PM
    #68
    Blkturbo!

    Blkturbo! Well-Known Member

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    ^BUMP^ for anyone who KNOWS this answer.


    Im not finding JUST a 4:10 ring and pinion set online
     
  9. Apr 16, 2012 at 12:32 AM
    #69
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD Well-Known Member

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    It's a Toyota specific gear for our trucks...beyond that your choice is a 4.11
     
  10. Apr 20, 2012 at 3:32 PM
    #70
    Relik

    Relik Well-Known Member

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    I'm interested in 4.10 gears too....where can you find 4.11? That is like nothing of a difference...lol
     
  11. Apr 22, 2012 at 1:16 PM
    #71
    Coastie

    Coastie New Member

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    Ok so this is sorta random but I am curious if anyone knows will you be at lower RPM's in 6th gear in a standard instead of in 5th in a automatic for the 2nd gens?
     
  12. Apr 22, 2012 at 1:25 PM
    #72
    worthywads

    worthywads Well-Known Member

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    The opposite 6th is .85 in stick and 5th is .72 in auto. 15% higher rpm with the stick.

    That's why 6speed gets worse mpg.
     
  13. Apr 23, 2012 at 3:29 AM
    #73
    Coastie

    Coastie New Member

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    Oh, well shoot, i guess it cost more to have fun. Thanks for the info!
     
  14. Apr 26, 2012 at 5:49 PM
    #74
    abu10

    abu10 New Member

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    Question, if you regear do you do the front and back? and also what brand of gears?
     
  15. Apr 26, 2012 at 6:10 PM
    #75
    Redgrom

    Redgrom http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

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    Sub and yep, you have to do front and back at the same time if you plan to use 4x4 ever.
     
  16. Apr 26, 2012 at 6:16 PM
    #76
    abu10

    abu10 New Member

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    Thank you
     
  17. Apr 26, 2012 at 8:10 PM
    #77
    Redgrom

    Redgrom http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-builds/29

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    ATO front skid (need more but icon's might fail if I hang anything else from my truck) All-Pro front bumper thanks to a good deal here and a pesky encounter with a rock or 20, total chaos uppers.
    East coast gear supply comes highly recomended here. I am about getting close to finally doing my truck. Here in southern California I'm getting quotes around $1500 out the door for front and rear. Just trying to decide if I can justify a locker in the rear but that's a totally different thread. Your best bet is never log back on this site! It gets really expensive.:D
     
  18. Apr 30, 2012 at 10:24 AM
    #78
    abu10

    abu10 New Member

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    Yeah I can tell lol oh well every hobby i have is fairly expensive anyways ;)
     
  19. May 1, 2012 at 6:58 AM
    #79
    Blkturbo!

    Blkturbo! Well-Known Member

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  20. May 3, 2012 at 9:10 AM
    #80
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    This^^^

    On the freeway a regear will hurt your mileage because you are now at a higher RPM. It is kind of like driving at freeway speeds in 4th gear when you have a 5th.

    In the city it will help your mileage because it takes less throttle to get going from every stop. What do you think would happen to your city mileage if you took off from every stop in 3rd gear instead of 1st? You have to give it more throttle to get going. Think about riding a mountain bike, it's easier to take off from a stop in 1st gear as opposed to 18th.

    Going to taller tires will always make it look like you get worse mileage if you base it off of the odometer mileage, because you are now traveling farther per rotation that stock so you actually travel more miles than your odometer says.

    Also while taller tires actually help mileage (at least in theory) in reality that is not usually the case because when people get new tires not only are they taller but they are usually wider and there for weigh more and have worse aerodynamics. Between this and the odometer being inaccurate there is a common misconception that taller tires hurt fuel mileage, but really if your tires were the same width, tread pattern, and ply rating only one was taller (which would make it a little heavier but not much) you should actually get better fuel mileage, at least on the freeway, and city probably wouldn't be affected much unless there was a huge height difference that would need more throttle to rotate the tires from stop.
     

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