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4wheel drive question NEED HELP NEW TO TOYOTA'S

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SchrammMan74, Sep 27, 2007.

  1. Sep 27, 2007 at 11:57 PM
    #1
    SchrammMan74

    SchrammMan74 [OP] Active Member

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    Vehicle:
    2000 bought rolled, turning it into a road/trail veichle
    6" Fabtech and soon to be 35" tires
    Well I just purchased and 2000 toyota and i already have a problem, it started out that when i put the truck into 4 wheel drive it would fill like it was binding up and then make a pop in the front end. like when a hub is not locking in, now my question is where are the hubs on these? are they all internal?
    thanks
     
  2. Oct 1, 2007 at 5:32 AM
    #2
    007Tacoma

    007Tacoma I dub thee malicious!

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    San Antonio, TX
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    Cloaking Device
    Bump!

    Anyone have any ideas on this one? I have never heard of this.
     
  3. Oct 1, 2007 at 6:18 AM
    #3
    jrallan26

    jrallan26 Well-Known Member

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    Sometimes you may have to "rock" your truck back and forth. No big deal, its normal.
     
  4. Oct 1, 2007 at 7:48 AM
    #4
    MarkC

    MarkC Carolina Alliance: Warheads On Foreheads Division

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    Yokota AB, Fussa-Shi, Japan
    Vehicle:
    99 4x4 SR5
    2 inch spacer in the front, and homemade add a leaf in the rear, billet grille, bull bar
    whenever i put my truck in 4w i always go in reverse first... try that
     
  5. Oct 1, 2007 at 11:43 AM
    #5
    SchrammMan74

    SchrammMan74 [OP] Active Member

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    Vehicle:
    2000 bought rolled, turning it into a road/trail veichle
    6" Fabtech and soon to be 35" tires
    Guy's I have rode in older toyotas that don't do this, i have played with it some more to see what i can find and it like there is a missing gear. so it work's but when it gets to the broken gear is skips and then catches again and makes a thud. how does the fronted work on these trucks, I have been reading that there aren't any hubs in this year of truck, is this true?PLEASE HELP I CAN"T FIGURE IT OUT
    Thanks guys
    Rusty
     
  6. Oct 2, 2007 at 12:27 PM
    #6
    thenrie

    thenrie Well-Known Member

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    Stafford, VA
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma, SR5, TRD, 2.7L (LEV), 4wd, 5sp m
    Magnaflow cat and cat-back exhaust, AFE Stage 2 cold-air intake system, 2.5" lift via Skyjacker leaf packs, Bilstein 5100s.
    I understand that 2000s come either with manual hubs or auto hubs. My 00 has automatic hubs, which means I go from 2WD to 4WD by simply shifting the shifter from 2H to 4H or vice-versa. I can do this on-the-go at any speed with no noticeable sound or bumps. And I don't have to get out in the wet snow, rain, or mud to lock in my hubs.

    If you have manual hubs, you have to stop, get out, and manually lock in each hub by rotating the lock on the end of the hub. Then you get back in and shift into 4wd before you start rolling again. You still should not be experiencing any thumps or grinding. You can leave the hubs locked in 2WD, but you waste gas and wear the wheel bushings unnecessarily that way.

    However, it is possible the owner before you installed a spool or locker that locks the front diff, which might cause you to feel bumping on a hard surface when you turn, as the tires must skid to make up for the different distance the inside and outside tires must travel in a turn. You can't feel it on dirt much, just feels a bit hard to turn the steering wheel. If that's the case, you really shouldn't use it on a hard surface in 4WD. It's hard on your front end, drive shaft, and Xfer case.

    The 00 TRD model has an electric locker for the rear end, which is great for getting out of sticky situations. It is set up to work only in 4L. You must stop, shift the xfer case to 4L, then push the diff lock button on the left side of the dash. It will blink a couple times then go solid, indicating the diff is locked. According to the manual, this should not be used on hard surfaces and you should keep the speed to 5mph or less. To disengage, push the button again, or stop and shift out of 4L. Sometimes you will hear a little knock or click as the diff lock engages or disengages.

    Outside of that, I would guess you have a busted diff.
     
  7. Oct 2, 2007 at 6:11 PM
    #7
    SchrammMan74

    SchrammMan74 [OP] Active Member

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    Vehicle:
    2000 bought rolled, turning it into a road/trail veichle
    6" Fabtech and soon to be 35" tires
    well I am with you on the busted diff because it doesn't seem right to me, plus it just started leaking fluid so i am guessing something has cut the seal inside?????????????????????
    thanks guys i will let you know what i find out
     
  8. Oct 2, 2007 at 6:19 PM
    #8
    sslongmuir

    sslongmuir Well-Known Member

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    Maine
    Vehicle:
    95 single cab 2.7 on 33's
    Custom rock sliders
    i had an old ranger that someone put a crazy gear ratio in the back with a 9" and left the front stock and it did the same thing. would turn half way round then kinda bind and pop
     
  9. Oct 2, 2007 at 8:02 PM
    #9
    thenrie

    thenrie Well-Known Member

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    Stafford, VA
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma, SR5, TRD, 2.7L (LEV), 4wd, 5sp m
    Magnaflow cat and cat-back exhaust, AFE Stage 2 cold-air intake system, 2.5" lift via Skyjacker leaf packs, Bilstein 5100s.
    good opportunity to select the exact gear/tire combo you always wanted and stuff 'em in 'ere.:eek:
     
  10. Oct 2, 2007 at 10:20 PM
    #10
    SchrammMan74

    SchrammMan74 [OP] Active Member

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    Vehicle:
    2000 bought rolled, turning it into a road/trail veichle
    6" Fabtech and soon to be 35" tires
    How would i found out what the gears are. that would make sense because i have 33" tires on it now and it will smoke them easy, i haven't been able to drive at a very high speed yet because i don't have a window in it yet. (still trying to straighten the cab) I have rode in other toyotas that have stock gears and 33" and they don't do as well. i am still very new toyotas, my daily driver is a powerstroke.
    thanks everyone for the comments
     
  11. Oct 3, 2007 at 5:02 AM
    #11
    thenrie

    thenrie Well-Known Member

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    Stafford, VA
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma, SR5, TRD, 2.7L (LEV), 4wd, 5sp m
    Magnaflow cat and cat-back exhaust, AFE Stage 2 cold-air intake system, 2.5" lift via Skyjacker leaf packs, Bilstein 5100s.
    See if you can find the thread below on the tech forum. I was trying to find out the same thing and one of the guys posted a list of the codes from the manufacturer's label on the driver's side door post that tells you what your diff gear ratios are. Although, with the trouble you've had, it is possible someone already traded out the rear diff gears for lower and didn't change the front (or vice-versa).

    From what I've read, on the Taco (at least with the 5sp manual tranny) 35s would work well with about a 4.88:1 ratio or so. I have a 4.30 with 31" tires and I'm showing 2500 rpm at 65mph (and wishing I had a 6th gear). My minivan shows under 1500 at the same speed, so I figure I could go with 33" tires with no problem and maybe even improve my hiway mileage.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/2905-trd-package-rear-end-gears.html
     
  12. Oct 4, 2007 at 11:46 PM
    #12
    SchrammMan74

    SchrammMan74 [OP] Active Member

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    2000 bought rolled, turning it into a road/trail veichle
    6" Fabtech and soon to be 35" tires
    well guys I found out that i have a broken ring and pinion!!!!!!!!!!!!
    NOW WHAT DO I DO?
    Do i replace it and then wheel with the ifs or convert to solid axle? i head it is like $500 for new ring and pinion. i think you can do the solid axle conversion for around $2000. also i could sell the 6" fabtech off it. what do you guys think would it really be worth it? what could i get for a used fabtech?
     
  13. Oct 5, 2007 at 12:52 AM
    #13
    350TacoZilla

    350TacoZilla Well-Known Member

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    1997 3RZ 5spd 4x4 Reg Cab
    2.7L 3RZ,K&N filter, 4" deck plate mod,flowmaster 40 series,3" suspension lift, hybrid 52"chevy/toyota rear springs.
    if you decide to go solid axle I have the dana 44 with 51" width ,the (brand new 4.5" lift superlift) leaf springs (will lift your taco like 7")and the ifs steering gearbox...make you a trade on the used 6" lift out of your truck basically all you need then is some metal and a blowtorch/welder
     
  14. Oct 5, 2007 at 5:46 AM
    #14
    thenrie

    thenrie Well-Known Member

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    Stafford, VA
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    2000 Tacoma, SR5, TRD, 2.7L (LEV), 4wd, 5sp m
    Magnaflow cat and cat-back exhaust, AFE Stage 2 cold-air intake system, 2.5" lift via Skyjacker leaf packs, Bilstein 5100s.
    Man, that sounds like fun! You could tell your wife, "I have to do this, because the front diff is busted." Then you tell her it will cost about umpteen thousand $$ to pay someone else to do it, or you can buy your own welder and do it yourself for half that! Then you end up with a welder and the straight axle! I have used this technique before. Works like a charm.
     
  15. Oct 5, 2007 at 5:49 AM
    #15
    jrallan26

    jrallan26 Well-Known Member

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    start calling up junkyards and look for a ring and pinion set...

     
  16. Oct 5, 2007 at 6:53 AM
    #16
    thenrie

    thenrie Well-Known Member

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    Stafford, VA
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma, SR5, TRD, 2.7L (LEV), 4wd, 5sp m
    Magnaflow cat and cat-back exhaust, AFE Stage 2 cold-air intake system, 2.5" lift via Skyjacker leaf packs, Bilstein 5100s.
    before you go out and buy a new ring and pinion for the front. It is possible the front got broke because some previous owner changed the rear diff out and got the wrong ratio. I would pull the cover and look at the ring and pinion to definitively determine the ratio, before I bought the front set.

    If you are just itching to do some serious 4-wheeling, and you have the $$ to spend, I'd go with the conversion to the solid axle. It just sounds like fun to me. Remember, even if you go with the conversion, you are probably going to have to buy a new ring and pinion for the solid axle, to match your Toy rear diff. They have to be the same, or you'll end up with big trouble (again). Once you start making major mods like this, you get the bug and it never stops. Next thing you know, you'll be buying Zilla's 2.5 ton axles!

    I have seen new ring and pinion sets for $700 on line, but you can pick them up at a junker for about 1/2 that. Maybe less if they let you pull it yourself, but I'd let them do it, so they can make sure they get you the right ratio. Keeping the stock IFS will always give you more comfortable and reliable road handling, simply because the whole truck was engineered that way. Also, installation of a ring and pinion is not a simple bolt-in. They have to be set up properly or they won't last long. Best to get a qualified mechanic to do it, unless you are good at reading and following a manual and have the right basic tools (wrenches, feeler gauge, shims). It's not particularly difficult, just has to be done right.
     
  17. Oct 5, 2007 at 8:05 AM
    #17
    SchrammMan74

    SchrammMan74 [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Vehicle:
    2000 bought rolled, turning it into a road/trail veichle
    6" Fabtech and soon to be 35" tires
    Where abouts are you located? is there anything done to the dana 44? stock or modified? do you have the brackets to hook up the steering?
     
  18. Oct 5, 2007 at 8:12 AM
    #18
    SchrammMan74

    SchrammMan74 [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2000 bought rolled, turning it into a road/trail veichle
    6" Fabtech and soon to be 35" tires
    Well i don't have a wife. I have a gf that i have been dateing for almost 2 yrs that is looking forward to a ring. maybe i will tell her now is my chance to buy a new ring .............and pinion. ha ha. as for the weld i have one and a torch, pluse i have acsess to the tools at work, plasma cutter, welders, grinders, tons of tool's, I just want to find out how much it will be total both ways.
     
  19. Oct 5, 2007 at 8:14 AM
    #19
    SchrammMan74

    SchrammMan74 [OP] Active Member

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    Vehicle:
    2000 bought rolled, turning it into a road/trail veichle
    6" Fabtech and soon to be 35" tires
    I have been searching and searching for solid axle info and can't find to much of a parts list. does anyone know all you need to complete this tranfer? as far as drivabilty is the solid axle that bad. or just not as soft of a ride?
     
  20. Oct 5, 2007 at 8:46 AM
    #20
    350TacoZilla

    350TacoZilla Well-Known Member

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    1997 3RZ 5spd 4x4 Reg Cab
    2.7L 3RZ,K&N filter, 4" deck plate mod,flowmaster 40 series,3" suspension lift, hybrid 52"chevy/toyota rear springs.
    yeah I have done two of them...check out my truck once... I have the axle...the steering box...the springs....and I even have the shock towers....they make a SAS kit for tacomas that would have the hangers if you arent handy with a welder and such...where you from? I'd be glad to help with getting you everything you need...they are pretty straight forward (ha ha straight axle)...the axle i have is the wagoneer dana 44 with drivers side drop and the correct width I made all mine myself but helped a buddy install this one.... http://www.bentup.com/saskits.html
     
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