Advice on trails and camping between Durango and Hwy 70 for upcoming summer trip

Hello TW,

Looking for advice on an upcoming trip for the summer of 2022. I have two weeks and plan to make a run from Durango CO to Lovell WY (near the Morrison Jeep Trail…) via as many beautiful places as I can. I am including the Itinerary for the first section from Durango to Hwy 70 here and asking for advice/input from those who know and have an intimate knowledge of the area. I am going to share on more than one page for more coverage (if okay with Moderators…)


Background:

This will be a solo trip. Yes, I have done such things before (did the Dalton Hwy to Deadhorse solo in 97, Rubicon etc..) Me? 57 year old semi fit high school shop teacher-welding, fabrication, woods etc. Assume I have experience (I do) and enough common sense to know my boundaries (I do.) Also assume that the truck is capable (it also is.) The trip will happen around the first week of August and depends on lots of things like weather and fires in/near the area of the planned route. I am choosing the Durango area because I have been there before and want to explore more and I have a good friend with a cabin off of Hwy 550 just past Purgatory on Cascade Creek that is available as a staging area. Planning to stay one night in the cabin… maybe two and then head north.


Plan:

I am going to do this in sections as not all of my planning resources are here yet. For this instalment I am asking about the section from Durango CO to Hwy 70. Yes, there is a book. Yes I have it. Also have maps. I am looking for local expertise now, and definitely any suggestions that will avoid crowds. I tried to get a primer via TW to save time, but in typically provincial TW fashion I was snubbed and I think mocked… oh well. I will do it twice. Here is the current fantasy: Start with a two day blast from Wisco to Durango and stay at the cabin.

Day one: Looking to complete Engineer and Cinnamon pass-I will take FS 591 across the hwy from Cascade Creek and run up to its union with 550, then up to Silverton. Heading out of Silverton on CR 2 up to Engineer Pass and follow CR 20 to Lake City. Plan to look over the Ute-Ulay mine but any other must see sites would be appreciated.

From Lake City I will take hwy 149 to CR 30 and head up over Cinnamon Pass back to CR 2. From here I head to CR 9 up over California Pass, pick up CR 11 and summit Hurricane Pass on down Corkscrew Pass. Any suggestions for camping up here are appreciated (My FS materials are not here yet and I don’t know what the dispersed camping rules are. Suggestions please.)

Day two:

Early start and head down to 550 with a turn on to CR 31 and the mine loop. This looks fascinating and from what I remember being up there a few years back (with a borrowed Honda Fit…) it is somewhere I want to visit. As I sit here now the plan is to then cross 550 and do Blackbear Pass. Not sure if I need to-I don’t care about the hype; however, it is the shortest route into Telluride and Imogene Pass which I would like to do… Might just extend and go over Ophir Pass and around to Telluride. What says the hive mind? Not spooked by the driving on Blackbear; rather, the crowds...Are there other options (besides just not going there..)? Imogene is next and on to Ouray. Need camping suggestions here.

Day Three:

Leave Ouray and head to Ridgeway. Take CR 10 and head back into the mountains. Rt on CR 8 and over Owl Creek Pass to a Lt on FR 861 and up to Silver Jack Reservoir. Continue on via FR 858 to Hwy 50 and Gunnison CO. Continue on Hwy 130 to FR or CR 130 and up towards Ohio Pass. I need camping recommendations for this area.

Day four:

So this is where I head into (I am guessing) a very populated wilderness, so any options further West are appreciated. I will try and not be around here on a weekend! Next I will head over Ohio Pass to Crested Butte. Here I will follow Hwy 135 to the airport road and bounce over Pearl Pass to Aspen. Heading north on hwy 82 I will turn at Basalt CO and experience Augerman Pass into Leadville. Need camping advice here.

Day five:

From Leadville CO heading north on Hwy 24 I will do the Slide Lake/Wutz Ditch loop all the way back to 24, and then take McAllister Gulch up over Shrine Pass to I 70. Left turn and head to, my current thinking is, Newcastle. I don’t have the FunTreks book for the north section yet, so this is all very malleable. Camping near Newcastle would be a start unless you all think there is a fantastic route up between Vail and Newcastle.


That's it. Part one. I would prefer more dirt to less on this so if you know of something fun that I have missed please pass it along. Also any must see and or do places that are near this routing let me know. I have lots of options and will be doing side trips… with 12+ hours of daylight there is lots of time in a day for driving/hiking/exploring/riding etc. Finally, if you think this plan sucks and know of better routes please feel free to share.

 

Sounds like you're going to have a great time. I'll offer a couple thoughts/ideas/resources.

1. It would help everyone - perhaps you included - if, for every day, you included a map that shows the route you're planning it take. It's a lot of work for someone to open up their favorite map site and type in all your locations/highway routes to figure out exactly where you're planning to go. More work than most are willing to put in, really.
   
   
   
2. The entire Alpine Loop area is awesome, I'm glad to see you're planning to hit at least a few places along it. I'd recommend Corkscrew Gulch, as it's one of my favorites in the area. (see my trips to the loop)
   
   
3. You could easily spend a month in CO alone, as you make your way to WY. In 2019 and 2020, a few of us spend two weeks each summer running around some of the same areas you're interested in. I highly recommend reading through both of the (longish) trip reports over a few days, and picking places that you'd like to see. Then, you can add them to your route.
   • 2019 - Exploring Colorado Becomes Redhead Down (Sep 2019)
   • 2020 - Clear, Colorful, Colorado – The 3C Trip (Oct 2020)
   • All CO trips - Colorado
   • All WY trips - Wyoming

Hope that helps!

 

Thanks for the input. I have followed your travels and used your suggestions before... we spent some time this summer exploring the Bighorns and Beartooth mountains.

The map is a good idea. I am not that far yet-I don't have it mapped out on paper yet (or saved electronically.) Get it. Will get on it. Selfishly hoping those who have it memorized to offer up some nuggets.

I will look through your pages. Any help with camping would be appreciated-I may come back and ask as I get through your materials,

 

That sounds like a fantastic itinerary. I'd second the Alpine Loop recommendation, although, it's been a few years since I did it. The last two times we were in Silverton this summer, the rental UTVs were thick on the streets, so don't know what the back country loop would be like. I've backpacked quite a bit in the Weminuche and the area is a favorite for camping/exploring.

There are a couple places I always hit when in Durango - Zia Taqueria for dinner, or Steamworks for beers and dinner, or Ska Brewing - The Container for beers and food, and 81301 for coffee (Durango Joes does a pretty good job as well).

Crested Butte is one of our favorite places, I'd recommend Secret Stash Pizza and Camp 4 Coffee.

And, if your vehicle needs to sit for awhile, watch out for marmots in the high country - I learned the hard way:

Howdy

Have a fantastic trip!

 

The Alpine Loop area will be buzzing with UTVs in August, you will probably have the occasional traffic jam, but it's not really that bad yet. There are a handful of dispersed sites coming down Corkscrew, and a whole cluster as you get back to 550. Anything treeline and below would be desirable for typical summer thundershowers and winds, but if the weather is really nice, consider finding a spot in the high country before the descent. It's amazing up there, especially if you like old mines.

Ophir is a beautiful alternative to Black Bear and you'll make better time, even without traffic, which will probably also be an issue on the latter. I haven't found any really great camp sites close to Ouray, but it's such a fun town we have opted to stay in town (at a hotel) for the past several years. I can recommend stopping at the brewery for a rooftop beer and BBQ.

Dispersed camping is pretty much your standard free-for-all in the San Juans, but a lot more restrictive around Crested Butte. Check for specific regulations there and going up to Aspen. And check for fire bans too, on my last trip there was a statewide ban, not even camp stoves were allowed! (We did manage to cook a proper meal by camping at an actual camp ground in the Curecanti NRA, one of the few exceptions to the ban)

I'm not a huge fan of Aspen but I can recommend the restaurant in Ashcroft coming down from Pearl Pass if you're up for a fancy-pants meal.

There's a cool bridge in Redcliff but Shrine Pass is underwhelming unless the aspens are blooming, I would skip it. Similarly there's tons of interesting driving in the plateaus above New Castle but I'd save it for aspen season, and I'm not sure about camping up there because it's largely ranch land. So if it were me, on day five I'd head over Mosquito pass and hit some south park / front range trails, or perhaps even better, head down through BV for some delicious food, then go play up by St Elmo and the Alpine Tunnel. I guess that would mean a lot more pavement to get to WY, but time management isn't really my thing.

 

Thank you! those Front Range aren't overly crowded?

 

Well, there's plenty of traffic in the Front Range too. I don't know what point I was trying to make there other than that I'm frequently annoyed by UTV drivers and wanted to complain about it on the internet.

Oh and regarding the Alpine Tunnel suggestion, it looks like it's still unreachable due to avalanche damage, which is too bad. It's one of my very favorite places in the Rockies, I hope they manage to repair that road someday. But even without the tunnel, a fun route to double back towards I70 from BV would be to go up to St Elmo then Tincup (either directly or through Hancock/Pitkin), then cross through CB again but head north over Schofield pass. I'm not claiming that's better than what you proposed, it's just what I'd do instead. The punchbowl and the mill are pretty iconic Colorado things to see.

 

I get it-I have pretty much scared myself out of the punchbowl... sh%t gets in your head and there is no reasoning with it. It is a cool route and helps me, but I am spooked for some reason...

 

Yeah, that one will put a crease in your seat. Walked it first and was talking myself out of it, but just then this guy waltzed down in an F350 like it was a walk in the park.



That was several years ago though, no idea what it's like now. Could be a total death trap.

But since you got me looking at old pictures...






Really hope they get the palisades repaired someday.

 

Punchbowl is great. No problem - esp down - for a Tacoma.

Devil’s Punchbowl Proves Too Treacherous – Colorado #4







And the areas it accesses... fantastic.

 

I personally would not recommend Pearl pass when traveling alone with a close to stock truck. I tried it last year in my truck and turned around because I didn’t want to risk damaging my truck and getting stuck there.
and I drove already 4 summers to the Rockies for off-roading.
Devils punch bowl I only did twice with my ATV and not sure if I would attempt it in a truck especially not alone.
I would recommend you Taylor pass when you want to get to Aspen with a Challenge without risking your life (devils punch bowl) or Truck (Pearl Pass). Don’t get me wrong Taylor pass is still really challenging and far away from easy but at least on most of the trail you can choose your line because it’s not just one small trail.
It took me back in the days 4h for 10miles on Taylor park

 

Sounds like you have a great trip planned! I live here (Breckenridge area) and would have to look at google maps to get a better idea of what you have mapped out... once you get a better idea, plug the route into google maps or whatever like somebody said and post back up. I can be of more help when I see it visualized

You will find plenty of dispersed places to camp around a good chunk of CO, Crested Butte can be tricky/busy I think as somebody said up there. Alpine Loop is great, did it again for maybe the 3rd time this fall.. but you will for sure run into lots of UTV traffic. Way different than the first time I did it like 15 years ago. Black Bear is alright, I've done it twice in my old 2 door explorer but don't have much desire to do it again in my Taco. But the view coming into Telluride coming down is pretty great. Lots of switchbacks and it helps to have a spotter during those. I liked Ophir pass better tho

You mention Augerman Pass, do you mean Hagerman pass? Very pretty area too. You aren't going to have a hard time finding places to camp, especially during the weekdays if that is what you are planning